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Koyasan is one of those places in Japan that feels completely different from the rest of the country. Hidden high in the mountains, it has been the spiritual centre of Shingon Buddhism for more than 1,200 years and still attracts pilgrims, monks and travellers looking for a quieter, more reflective side of Japan. The atmosphere here is unlike anywhere else – cedar forests, temple complexes and an almost constant sense of calm make it feel far removed from the pace of the cities.

One of the most memorable places in Koyasan is Okunoin Cemetery, a vast graveyard stretching through the forest beneath towering cedar trees. Moss-covered gravestones, small stone lanterns and winding paths create an atmosphere that is both peaceful and slightly surreal, especially after dark. Walking there in the evening was easily one of the most unforgettable experiences of the trip.

Koyasan is also known for shukubo – overnight stays in Buddhist temples. To be honest, it did feel somewhat adapted for visitors and tourism today, with a fairly organised and comfortable experience rather than something deeply monastic. Even so, it was still genuinely worthwhile. Taking part in the early morning prayers, eating traditional shojin ryori vegetarian cuisine and spending a night inside a temple offered an interesting glimpse into a world that most visitors to Japan never really see.

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ALL AROUND

OKUNOIN CEMENTARY

SHUKUBO