The Eagle’s Nest in the Clouds. When the View Disappears

2026 By justmovingaround in History, Sightseeing Tags: Eagle's Nest, Germany, WWII

The Alps never appeared. The Eagle’s Nest remained hidden in cloud for the entire visit. Unexpectedly, the missing view became the reason to look more closely at the building itself, its architecture, and its place in the history of the Third Reich.

The Eagle’s Nest is one of those places that most people have heard of long before they arrive. I knew only one thing about it – that it had once been associated with Adolf Hitler. I also expected spectacular views from the mountain on which it stands. However, halfway up it became clear that we would not see any mountains that day. We were literally inside a cloud. The building itself was completely engulfed by it. At one point, visibility dropped to just a few metres. People would suddenly emerge from the milky white haze and then disappear into it again moments later. The stone steps leading towards the summit vanished into the grey. There were no valleys, no peaks, and not even a sense of the true scale of the place. It was difficult to tell where the building ended and where the surrounding space began. For a while, the Eagle’s Nest seemed suspended somewhere between rock and cloud, cut off from the landscape around it.

Had the weather cooperated, I would probably have spent much of my time admiring the Alpine panorama and photographing the landscape. Instead, there was little point in standing by the stone walls searching for distant peaks. There was nothing to photograph beyond the building itself and its immediate surroundings. As a result, my attention gradually shifted towards the history of the place, its architecture, and the role it had played nearly ninety years ago.

Before travelling to the Eagle’s Nest, I had done no research at all. I had not even made a quick search online. I had no idea what to expect and arrived without any particular expectations. Yet while taking a selfie in one of the rooms, I suddenly recognised the view behind me. I was certain that I had seen it somewhere before. What was more, I distinctly remembered that there had probably been no windows in that part of the building – something that later proved to be true when I checked. I must have come across this place either in a book or in a documentary at some point in the past.

The Eagle’s Nest is not an ordinary mountain lodge, nor is it simply another viewpoint on the map of the Alps. It is a surviving remnant of a very specific political and ideological world that has long since disappeared, yet left behind tangible traces. Over the decades, the building has accumulated countless legends, simplifications and myths. Contrary to popular belief, it was not Hitler’s home. Nor was it the main seat of the Nazi leadership. It was not even a place where Hitler spent much of his time. The Eagle’s Nest is one of those sites that exists in the public imagination more as a symbol than as an actual building. Most people know it in connection with Hitler, the Third Reich, or its spectacular location high in the mountains. Far fewer are familiar with what it really was, how it came into being, and what purpose it was originally intended to serve.

A modern visit to the Eagle’s Nest begins at Obersalzberg. This is where the car parks and the stop for the distinctive red buses are located. These buses carry visitors higher up the mountain, although not directly to the Eagle’s Nest itself. The entire operation is remarkably efficient and feels like a well-organised tourist attraction. Visitors are assigned to a specific bus before departure. The journey then continues along a narrow mountain road carved into the rocky slopes. The road leads to the entrance of a tunnel driven deep into the mountain beneath the Kehlstein. At the end of the tunnel stands an elevator, which carries visitors directly up into the Eagle’s Nest. Even today, reaching the building is designed as a sequence of stages rather than a simple journey from one point to another.

The red buses wait at the lower station before beginning the ascent to Eagle’s Nest. The road to the mid-station is a remarkable feat of engineering – a narrow, winding route carved into the mountainside, with only a handful of passing places along the way. Clinging to rocky ledges above steep drops, the road is protected only by concrete barriers.

It is easy to forget, however, that the place where the journey begins is historically far more significant than the car park or the bus terminal itself. It was here that the true centre of the entire Nazi mountain complex was located. Today, this is difficult to imagine, as most of the original buildings have disappeared and the landscape has largely been returned to a more natural state. The real heart of Nazi power on Obersalzberg was not the Eagle’s Nest high above the mountains, but the vast complex that once stood below it.

During the 1930s, this area was gradually transformed into a restricted zone reserved for the highest ranks of the Third Reich. The process began after Hitler developed a fondness for the region and made it one of his favourite places to stay. As his political influence grew, more and more properties were purchased, existing buildings were remodelled, and extensive infrastructure was created for the Nazi elite. Residences, administrative buildings, barracks, bunkers, and the technical facilities required to support the complex were all constructed here. As a result, Obersalzberg became far more than a mountain resort. It evolved into an informal centre of power visited by leading figures of the Third Reich as well as foreign dignitaries. It was here that the Berghof – Hitler’s principal residence – was located, alongside the homes of other senior Nazi officials. By the late 1930s, Obersalzberg had become not simply a retreat in the Alps, but one of the most important centres of power in Nazi Germany.

It was at the Berghof residence that Hitler stayed during his visits to the Alps. He received foreign guests there, held political discussions, and spent much of his time away from Berlin. Many of the well-known photographs showing him against an Alpine backdrop were taken at the Berghof rather than at the Eagle’s Nest. The residence was designed for everyday use. It contained private apartments, guest accommodation, offices, and all the facilities required to support political activity. While the Eagle’s Nest became the symbol, the Berghof was the place where daily life and political business actually took place.

After the war, the Berghof was partially destroyed by Allied bombing and subsequently fell into further decline. In the 1950s, its remaining ruins were deliberately demolished to prevent the site from becoming a place of pilgrimage for Nazi sympathisers. Today, very little remains of the building, and most visitors to the area are unaware of how close they are to what was once Hitler’s actual residence. This is one of the reasons why the Eagle’s Nest is so often mistaken for his home. The Berghof disappeared, while the Kehlsteinhaus survived. As a result, it gradually assumed the symbolic role of representing the Nazi presence in the Alps, even though its historical function was entirely different.

Only when viewed against the backdrop of this vast complex does the role of the Eagle’s Nest become clear. The Kehlsteinhaus was intended to be its most spectacular element, but not its most important one. The Eagle’s Nest was designed to impress, not to serve as the centre of power. So what exactly was it? If it was not Hitler’s main residence, what purpose did it actually serve?

The Kehlsteinhaus was built as a ceremonial pavilion intended for meetings, entertaining guests, and short visits. It is often referred to as Hitler’s Tea House and, although that description is somewhat simplified, it captures the character of the building quite well. It was never designed as a place for everyday living. Instead, it was conceived as an exceptional space high above Obersalzberg where guests could be received, meetings could be held, or a few hours could be spent in extraordinary surroundings.

Even the layout of the interior alone makes it clear that this was not a residence in the conventional sense. There are no extensive private apartments, numerous bedrooms, or the facilities required for long-term occupation. Instead, the building consists of a handful of representative rooms, a dining room, kitchen facilities, and a series of terraces designed to take advantage of the location and its views. Interestingly, Hitler himself did not make extensive use of it. Although the building was created as a gift for him, historical sources indicate that he visited it relatively infrequently.

The building was conceived as a symbol of prestige, technological achievement, and political power. Its construction required enormous resources, effort, and engineering expertise. A mountain road was built for it. A tunnel was driven through solid rock. An elevator was installed inside the mountain itself. The most impressive aspect of the Eagle’s Nest is not the building itself, but the fact that it was constructed in such a location at all. Work began in 1937, and time was short. The project had to be completed in time for Hitler’s fiftieth birthday in 1939. The greatest challenge was not the construction of the building itself, but the creation of the infrastructure needed to reach an altitude of more than 1,800 metres.

The first stage was the construction of the Kehlstein Road. In the 1930s, building it was a major engineering undertaking. The road was carved into the steep mountainside and required the construction of numerous retaining walls, culverts, and tunnels. In many places, workers operated on near-vertical rock faces. Harsh weather conditions, steep slopes, and an extremely tight schedule made the project exceptionally ambitious from the very beginning. The challenge was not simply to build a structure on a mountain, but to create a way of reaching it.

Once the road had been completed, another problem emerged. Even its highest point still lay more than one hundred metres below the planned location of the building. Rather than extending the road all the way to the summit, the planners opted for a far more dramatic solution. A tunnel was cut through the rock, leading to an elevator that carried visitors directly up to the Kehlsteinhaus. The elevator climbed approximately 124 metres and was designed to impress from the outset. It was not merely a practical means of transport. It formed part of the entire experience of visiting the Eagle’s Nest.

It is worth remembering that the project also served a propagandistic purpose. The Third Reich was eager to present major infrastructure projects as evidence of its modernity and organisational efficiency. The Eagle’s Nest fitted perfectly into that narrative. The goal was not simply to create a meeting place high in the mountains. It was also to demonstrate that the state could master even the most challenging terrain and complete a project that many would have considered impossible. What impresses most is not its size, but the road, the tunnel, and the elevator leading to a structure perched just below the mountain summit. These engineering achievements are what continue to make the Eagle’s Nest one of the most remarkable architectural and construction projects associated with the era of the Third Reich.

Today, reaching the Eagle’s Nest is surprisingly straightforward. The bus slowly climbs higher and higher, following a series of switchbacks and passing through tunnels and sections of road carved directly into the mountainside. Eventually, it stops beside a rock face at an altitude of around 1,700 metres above sea level. From there, visitors enter a tunnel approximately 120 metres long, cut deep into the mountain itself. At the end of the tunnel stands the famous elevator. Today it is primarily a tourist attraction, but when it was built it was one of the most luxurious elements of the entire complex. Lined with polished brass, the cabin rises approximately 124 metres, carrying visitors vertically through the heart of the mountain to the level of the Kehlsteinhaus. Guests did not simply arrive at the building. First they travelled along a spectacular mountain road. Then they passed through a tunnel cut into solid rock. Finally, they ascended through the mountain itself by elevator. Only then did they reach the Eagle’s Nest. The entire sequence was designed to create a sense of exclusivity and anticipation before visitors even crossed the threshold.

The bus terminus at the upper station emerges from the mist on a narrow rocky ledge below Eagle’s Nest. Hidden by low clouds and driving rain, the scene felt almost surreal. On the opposite side, beside the tunnel entrance, stands a small shelter building, although I did not photograph it as it was crowded with visitors seeking refuge from the wind and rain. From here, the route continues through the historic tunnel carved into the mountain and towards the famous brass-lined lift. Photography is prohibited both at the lower and upper lift stations, so I photographed only the entrance to the lift itself.

The Eagle’s Nest building itself is relatively small. It does not resemble a palace, a sprawling residence, or a monumental complex. In reality, it consists of just a handful of principal rooms and terraces arranged across different levels. It is not actually located on the summit of the mountain. The building stands at an altitude of 1,834 metres above sea level, while the true summit of the Kehlstein rises several dozen metres higher. On a clear day, this would probably be impossible to miss. A flight of stone steps leads upward from one of the terraces, allowing visitors to continue to the summit itself. That day, however, conditions were very different. The clouds completely obscured the surroundings and the steps seemed to disappear into a wall of white. I could see people climbing upwards, but not where they were going. After a few metres, they simply dissolved into the mist.

This location reveals a great deal about the thinking behind the project. The goal was not to place the building on the highest point of the mountain. What mattered far more was finding a site where the structure could be built safely, where a road could reach it, where a tunnel could be driven through the rock, and where an elevator could be installed. Practical engineering considerations ultimately mattered more than the symbolic appeal of occupying the highest point on the mountain.

With the mist around, I had the distinct sensation that the building was suspended somewhere outside ordinary space between rock and cloud, existing almost outside the normal landscape altogether. There were no points of reference, no valleys, and no neighbouring peaks. There were only rocks, cloud, and a building clinging to the mountainside. Only later did it occur to me that this sense of isolation was probably part of the original concept. The Kehlsteinhaus was meant to feel exceptional, separated from the everyday world below.

One of the most surprising aspects of visiting the Eagle’s Nest is its present-day normality. After all the history connected with the Third Reich, after the road carved into the rock, the tunnel, the elevator, and the awareness of why this building was created, you simply arrive at a restaurant. People eat lunch, drink coffee, rest after the journey, and take photographs. We also sat down at a table and ordered a beer. There was no atmosphere of a museum or a memorial site here. Nor was there any attempt to build legends. In itself, there would have been nothing unusual about that, were it not for the awareness of where we were. It was difficult not to feel a certain ambivalence. In Germany, many sites directly associated with Hitler were destroyed after the war or deliberately stripped of their original function. The Berghof did not survive. Much of the former complex on Obersalzberg disappeared as well. The Kehlsteinhaus remained, but its meaning changed completely. Sitting there with a beer, watching tourists sheltering from the cloud, I felt that this was the greatest paradox of the Eagle’s Nest. It was built as a symbol of prestige and power, yet today it functions as an ordinary restaurant visited by people from all over the world.

Because the mountains remained completely hidden by cloud that day, my attention gradually shifted from the landscape to the building itself. The entire premises follow a terraced layout shaped by the slope of the mountain. The individual spaces occupy different elevations and are connected by short flights of stairs. As a result, moving through the building means constantly ascending or descending, even though the level changes themselves are relatively modest. The highest level contains the former dining room and the kitchen facilities. This is where visitors emerge from the elevator. It is also where the toilets and the main circulation route through the building are located. The windows of the former dining room overlook the Sonnenterrasse (Sun Terrace), situated on a lower level. From the dining room, a staircase leads down to the Great Hall with its fireplace, then further down to the small sitting room now commonly known as Eva Braun’s Room, and finally to the Sonnenterrasse itself. The room known today as Eva Braun’s Room is actually the Scharitzkehlzimmer, but the association with Eva Braun appears so frequently that it has become firmly established in popular descriptions of the Eagle’s Nest. Compared with the Great Hall, it feels surprisingly intimate. I would estimate its size at perhaps fifteen or twenty square metres.

Leaving the elevator did not only provide access to the dining room. On the opposite side, visitors could step directly outside onto an open terrace running around part of the building. This was not the Sonnenterrasse, but a higher outdoor platform protected by a low stone wall. It is from here that the most famous views of the Alps unfold on a clear day. The more I explored the building, the more it became clear that it had been designed around movement, views, and the experience of the mountain itself.

If there is one interior that can be regarded as the symbol of the Eagle’s Nest, it is undoubtedly the Great Hall. It appears in most photographs of the building and is the room that most visitors remember. The most distinctive feature of the space is, of course, the monumental fireplace made of red marble. It was presented to Hitler by Benito Mussolini and remains one of the most recognisable elements of the building’s interior. It is here that the contrast between the historical image of the Eagle’s Nest and its present-day reality is most apparent. Today, tourists pass through the hall, take photographs, and move on after a few minutes. Originally, however, the room was intended as a representative space for meetings and conversation.

The photographs on the left show the surroundings of the building and its exterior terraces, all perched dramatically on the mountainside. The images in the centre focus on the sun terrace, the exit leading outside, the interior space with the large windows of the former dining room, and the view from inside Eva Braun’s room. Today, this area houses a small exhibition devoted primarily to the construction of Eagle’s Nest, alongside a selection of other historical photographs. The photographs on the right show Eva Braun’s room, the stairway entrance leading into the main hall, the hall as it appears today with its restaurant facilities, and finally the famous fireplace presented by Mussolini. I did not photograph the entire main hall or the former dining room, as both spaces were crowded with visitors and I wished to respect their privacy. Historical views of these rooms, however, you cen see in the photographs below.

It was here that I first began to realise that the building’s modern appearance differs slightly from that how it looked in the past. The Great Hall itself remains largely unchanged. The relationship between Eva Braun’s Room and the Sonnenterrasse, however, was altered when the terrace was later enclosed with glass. Today, the Sonnenterrasse resembles a long glazed gallery running alongside the building. Walking through it for the first time, one might assume that its primary purpose is circulation. Yet in this case my memory had not deceived me. For some reason, I remembered the space as a terrace furnished with deckchairs. Historical photographs I found later in the internet confirmed that impression. There is no glass in those images. There is no enclosed gallery. Instead, open arcades face directly towards the mountains. Light pours into the interior. Deckchairs stand against the walls.

Floor plan of the Eagle’s Nest | Grundriss des Kehlsteinhauses | Plan du bâtiment du Nid d’Aigle | Plan budynku Orlego Gniazda | Plano del edificio del Nido del Águila | 鹰巢建筑平面图 | 鷲の巣の建物平面図 | 독수리 요새 건물 평면도

Eagle’s Nest dining room | Speisesaal des Kehlsteinhauses | Salle à manger du Nid d’Aigle | Jadalnia Orlego Gniazda | Comedor del Nido del Águila | 鹰巢餐厅 | 鷲の巣の食堂 | 독수리 요새 식당

Scharitz Room at the Eagle’s Nest | Scharitzzimmer im Kehlsteinhaus | Salle Scharitz au Nid d’Aigle | Pokój Scharitz w Orlim Gnieździe | Sala Scharitz en el Nido del Águila | 鹰巢中的沙里茨厅 | 鷲の巣のシャリッツの間 | 독수리 요새의 샤리츠 방

Study at the Eagle’s Nest | Arbeitszimmer im Kehlsteinhaus | Bureau du Nid d’Aigle | Gabinet w Orlim Gnieździe | Despacho del Nido del Águila | 鹰巢书房 | 鷲の巣の書斎 | 독수리 요새의 집무실

Elevator at the Eagle’s Nest | Aufzug im Kehlsteinhaus | Ascenseur du Nid d’Aigle | Winda w Orlim Gnieździe | Ascensor del Nido del Águila | 鹰巢电梯 | 鷲の巣のエレベーター | 독수리 요새의 엘리베이터

Sun Terrace at the Eagle’s Nest | Sonnenterrasse des Kehlsteinhauses | Terrasse ensoleillée du Nid d’Aigle | Taras słoneczny Orlego Gniazda | Terraza soleada del Nido del Águila | 鹰巢阳光露台 | 鷲の巣のサンテラス | 독수리 요새의 선 테라스

Scharitzkehl Room at the Eagle’s Nest | Scharitzkehlzimmer im Kehlsteinhaus | Salle Scharitzkehl au Nid d’Aigle | Pokój Scharitzkehl w Orlim Gnieździe | Sala Scharitzkehl en el Nido del Águila | 鹰巢中的沙里茨凯尔厅 | 鷲の巣のシャリッツケールの間 | 독수리 요새의 샤리츠케일 방

Reception Hall at the Eagle’s Nest | Empfangshalle im Kehlsteinhaus | Hall de réception du Nid d’Aigle | Hol recepcyjny w Orlim Gnieździe | Sala de recepción del Nido del Águila | 鹰巢接待大厅 | 鷲の巣のレセプションホール | 독수리 요새의 리셉션 홀

The photographs shown above are historical images of the Eagle’s Nest that have circulated online for many years. All of them have been digitally processed using AI in order to remove the people who appeared in the original photographs. Apart from the removal of these individuals, the interiors remain unchanged, with the layout, furnishings and architectural details corresponding to those visible in the original archival images.

One question kept returning to me throughout the visit: why does this building still exist at all? After all, many places directly associated with Hitler and the highest ranks of the Third Reich did not survive the war, or were deliberately destroyed afterwards. The Berghof, which for years had been the true centre of life on Obersalzberg, is a good example. Today, only fragments of its foundations and a handful of traces hidden in the forest remain.

The Kehlsteinhaus, however, followed a somewhat different path. Its future was also debated after the war, but in the end the building survived. Several factors may have contributed to that decision. It was not Hitler’s principal residence. It never played the political role that the Berghof did. Hitler himself visited relatively infrequently. At the same time, the building was an extraordinary architectural and engineering achievement, and its location made it easy to adapt to a new purpose. Over time, it became both a restaurant and a tourist destination. The history did not disappear, but it ceased to dominate. Germany consciously separated these two worlds. Historical education became centred on the Documentation Centre at Obersalzberg, while the Eagle’s Nest itself continued to function primarily as a tourist attraction. As a result, the building never became either a shrine or a monument to the Nazi past, although it can never be completely detached from the circumstances of its creation.

As we travelled back down the mountain by bus, the clouds slowly began to break apart. Small fragments of the landscape appeared. Individual peaks and valleys emerged from the mist. The mountains that had been invisible at the summit gradually returned. The Eagle’s Nest, however, remained hidden high above them, still immersed in cloud.

The Eagle’s Nest in the Clouds. When the View Disappears

Großer Arber. Above the Forests of Bavaria and Šumava

2026 By justmovingaround in GERMANY, Sightseeing Tags: Germany, Grosser Arber, Wielki Jawor

For several days, Großer Arber was a constant presence on the horizon, visible from both the Czech and German sides of the border. As the highest peak in the Bavarian Forest, it offers sweeping views across Šumava, Bavaria and, on clear days, even the distant Alps. With its distinctive radar domes, extensive summit ridge and well-developed hiking trails, it proved to be far more than just another mountain viewpoint.

For several days our base is Železná Ruda, a small town on the Czech-German border. From there we set out each day to explore different parts of the Šumava region and the surrounding mountains. Throughout our stay, one landmark seemed to accompany us wherever we went – Großer Arber. The longer we spent in the region, the more often the mountain appeared on the horizon. Sometimes it dominated the view. At other times it emerged only briefly above the endless forests. Yet it was impossible to ignore.

Our yesterday visit to Großer Arber was only one part of a much longer journey. After exploring western Bohemia and spending time in the forests of Šumava, we plan to continue south towards Salzburg and the Bavarian Alps. Even so, this mountain attracted our attention from the very beginning of the trip. Having seen it repeatedly from roads, viewpoints and village streets on both sides of the border, it felt only natural that sooner or later we should make our way to the summit and discover the region from above.

Rising to 1,456 metres above sea level, Großer Arber is the highest peak in the Bavarian Forest. Known in Czech as Velký Javor (Great Maple), it differs markedly from the dramatic, jagged summits associated with the Alps. Rather than culminating in a narrow rocky peak, Großer Arber forms a broad, open ridge. This gives the summit area a spacious feel and allows visitors to move easily between viewpoints while enjoying the surrounding landscape at a more relaxed pace.

To understand the significance of Großer Arber, it helps to look beyond the mountain itself and consider the wider landscape in which it stands. The Bavarian Forest in Germany and Šumava in the Czech Republic are not two separate mountain ranges but different parts of the same vast forested region stretching along the border between the two countries. For centuries, these mountains formed a natural frontier, covered by dense woodland and scattered settlements. Today, although the international border still runs through the area, the landscape remains remarkably continuous. Forested ridges, valleys and mountain slopes extend across both countries with little regard for political boundaries. The region is also home to two neighbouring national parks – Bavarian Forest National Park in Germany and Šumava National Park in the Czech Republic. Together they protect one of the largest continuous woodland areas in Central Europe, creating a landscape that feels far more defined by nature than by the line drawn on a map.

Reaching the summit could hardly have been easier. Like many popular destinations in Bavaria, Großer Arber is supported by excellent visitor infrastructure, making it accessible to a wide range of travellers rather than only experienced hikers. From the lower station, small six-person gondola cabins carry visitors up the mountainside through the forest. The journey itself offers increasingly expansive views of the surrounding landscape before arriving just below the summit. From there, only a short walk is required to reach the highest parts of the mountain. As elsewhere in Bavaria, the tourist infrastructure on Großer Arber is exceptionally well organised. Visitors who prefer not to undertake a strenuous hike can reach the upper part of the mountain by cable car, while those who wish to spend more time outdoors will find a network of well-maintained walking paths and viewpoints around the summit. Facilities are thoughtfully integrated into the landscape. Restaurants, refreshment stops, seating areas and public conveniences make it easy to spend several hours on the mountain without feeling rushed.

The mountain invites visitors to linger. Rather than gathering around a single viewpoint, people spread out across the broad summit ridge, following paths that lead in different directions and reveal new perspectives of the surrounding landscape. While the distant views naturally draw attention, I found myself equally interested in the details of the summit itself. Rocky outcrops emerge from the ground in unexpected places, patches of mountain vegetation cling to the exposed terrain, and here and there visitors have balanced small cairns from loose stones.

We were fortunate with the weather on the day of our visit. After encountering less favourable conditions elsewhere during the trip, it was a pleasure to find clear skies, good visibility and enough sunshine to fully appreciate the views from the mountain. The summit offers far-reaching panoramas across the forests of the Bavarian Forest and Šumava, whose endless ridges seem to stretch towards the horizon in every direction. Looking out across this landscape, it becomes easy to appreciate the scale of the region and the vast extent of its woodland cover. The Alps were also visible in the distance. The morning light and a slight haze softened their outlines, giving them an almost ethereal appearance on the horizon. Although the conditions were not perfect, it was still possible to pick out the distant mountain chain. Local visitors told us that on exceptionally clear afternoons the Alpine panorama can be even more impressive.

One of the most distinctive features of Großer Arber is the pair of white radar domes that crown the summit. Visible from considerable distances across both Germany and the Czech Republic, they make the mountain instantly recognisable. The domes are a reminder that Großer Arber was valued not only for its scenery but also for its strategic location. During the Cold War, the summit hosted military radar installations, taking advantage of the mountain’s commanding position and extensive views across Central Europe. For decades, the site played a role in monitoring air traffic and military activity during a period when the nearby border formed part of the divide between East and West.

For readers unfamiliar with European history, the Cold War was the decades-long political and military rivalry between the Western democracies led by the United States and the communist states led by the Soviet Union. At the time, Großer Arber stood in West Germany, a member of NATO, while neighbouring Czechoslovakia belonged to the Soviet-backed Warsaw Pact. The nearby border formed part of the Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified line that divided much of Europe until the collapse of communist regimes in 1989.

The decision to build the radar station was controversial. Conservationists objected to the construction of large military structures on one of the most prominent peaks in the Bavarian Forest, while military planners regarded the summit as an ideal location for monitoring airspace beyond the Iron Curtain. Construction began in the late 1970s, and the facility entered service in 1983 at a time when tensions between NATO and the Warsaw Pact remained high. From this elevated position, radar operators could monitor aircraft movements across a large area of Central Europe. The station was operated by the West German Air Force and formed part of NATO’s air-defence network, providing surveillance and early warning coverage along one of the alliance’s eastern frontiers.

The end of the Cold War did not bring an end to the station’s importance. Instead, the facility was modernised and incorporated into the Integrated NATO Air Defence System. In the mid-1990s, new radar equipment was installed, allowing the station to continue its role in airspace surveillance. Today, one of the domes houses a long-range radar system, while the other contains communications equipment used for military operations. The installation remains operational and is currently run by the German Air Force. As a result, the white domes that dominate the summit are not merely historical curiosities. Although they have become an accepted part of the mountain’s silhouette, they remain active elements of Germany’s and NATO’s air-defence infrastructure.

Großer Arber, Bavaria, Germany | Großer Arber, Bayern, Deutschland | Großer Arber, Bavière, Allemagne | Großer Arber, Bawaria, Niemcy | Großer Arber, Baviera, Alemania | Großer Arber, Bavorsko, Německo | 德国巴伐利亚州大阿尔伯山 | ドイツ、バイエルン州グローサー・アルバー山 | 독일 바이에른주의 그로서 아르버 산

This one photograph is only a small glimpse of what I have on my camera. To my Großer Arber gallery as it currently is as the photos I have taken when hiking in Šumava.

Rather than taking the cable car back down, we decided to return on foot. The descent is not particularly long – around forty minutes in our case – but it is steep enough in places to remind you that you are coming down a mountain rather than strolling through a park. The route passes through attractive forest scenery, with moss-covered ground, exposed roots, rocky sections and occasional stretches of wider gravel paths. After spending time on the open summit ridge, it was pleasant to find ourselves once again surrounded by trees and immersed in the landscape that defines both the Bavarian Forest and neighbouring Šumava. Along the way we also encountered mountain bikers, another reminder of how well the area caters for different types of visitors. Dedicated cycling routes help keep riders and walkers apart, allowing both groups to enjoy the mountain safely and comfortably without getting in one another’s way.

Looking back, Großer Arber proved to be far more than a viewpoint overlooking the surrounding countryside. The combination of easy access, extensive views, attractive walking routes and excellent facilities makes it one of the most rewarding destinations in the region. Whether arriving for the panoramas, the forests, the history or simply a day outdoors, it is easy to understand why the mountain remains one of the Bavarian Forest’s most popular attractions.

Großer Arber. Above the Forests of Bavaria and Šumava

Yerebatan Sarnıcı. The Underground Palace of Constantinople

2026 By justmovingaround in ISTANBUL, Sightseeing Tags: Basilica Cistern, Constantinople, Istanbul, Turkey, Yerebatan Sarnici

Hidden beneath the streets of Istanbul lies one of the most extraordinary surviving structures of the Byzantine world. Built in the sixth century during the reign of Emperor Justinian I, Yerebatan Sarnıcı – the Basilica Cistern once formed part of the vast hydraulic network that supplied water to Constantinople. Today, its endless rows of columns, shallow reflective water and shifting underground light create one of the most atmospheric spaces anywhere in Europe.

This will probably be my last post about Istanbul for a while. Another trip is already slowly approaching and more folders are waiting to be sorted through. Still this post is about one of the most extraordinary places to see not only in Istanbul, but possibly also on the European scale.

One scene from Inferno stayed with me long after I first watched the film. There is a moment inside Hagia Sophia when the protagonist presses his ear against the floor and realises there is water somewhere beneath him. The scene creates a very clear impression that the enormous underground cistern lies directly below the building itself. For a long time, that was exactly how I imagined it. Only once I arrived in Istanbul did I realise that it is not exactly true. Yerebatan Sarnıcı – the Basilica Cistern is not actually located directly underneath Hagia Sophia. It stands a short distance away. Above ground, everything feels entirely contemporary – traffic, crowds, cafés, tour groups and city noise. Yet only a few metres below street level lies a vast piece of Byzantine infrastructure that has survived for nearly fifteen hundred years.

At the same time, the film was not completely wrong. This entire part of ancient Constantinople is threaded with underground structures – cisterns, tunnels, channels and forgotten hydraulic systems built to collect, store and distribute water throughout the city. Even beneath Hagia Sophia itself there are underground chambers and water-related structures dating back centuries. So although the geography was simplified for cinematic effect, the film captured something real – the feeling that there is another hidden city beneath the streets of Istanbul.

Yerebatan Sarnıcı, Istanbul, Turkey | Yerebatan-Zisterne, Istanbul, Türkei | Citerne Basilique, Istanbul, Turquie | Yerebatan Sarnıcı, Stambuł, Turcja | Yerebatan Sarnıcı, Estambul, Turquía | 土耳其伊斯坦布尔地下水宫 | イェレバタン地下宮殿、トルコ・イスタンブール | 예레바탄 사라이, 터키 이스탄불

You enter the cistern by descending a staircase. Above ground there is the ordinary rhythm of the city – traffic, voices, the sound of buses passing nearby – and then, step by step, you move down into darkness, cool air and silence broken only by echoes. It feels as though you are entering a vast hidden structure concealed beneath the city itself.

My first impression after entering was simply the scale of it all. Of course I had seen photographs beforehand, and I knew the location from the film, but images do not really prepare you for the actual size of the space. On screen it looks like an atmospheric underground hall. In reality, it feels far larger – more like entering an entire subterranean world than a single architectural space. And almost immediately, the cinematic version collides with reality. In Inferno, the cistern appears almost empty, silent and permanently drenched in deep red light. In real life, it is one of Istanbul’s most visited attractions, and there are people everywhere. Tourists are constantly taking photographs, conversations echo beneath the vaulted ceiling, footsteps bounce off the stone surfaces, and every now and then someone nearby uses flash photography. Rather than an abandoned underground chamber, it feels alive, busy and intensely visited.

To be honest, one of the first things I found myself doing was trying to work out how to photograph the space while avoiding people in the frame. Places like this are always a challenge, especially when the lighting changes constantly and somebody nearby suddenly fires a flash at exactly the wrong moment. Yet that constantly shifting illumination is also part of what gives the cistern its atmosphere. There are moments when the entire interior glows red, just as it does in the film. Then, only seconds later, the lighting shifts to green or blue. Spotlights positioned throughout the cistern – some low near the water, others higher among the columns – continually alter the mood of the space. Certain sections disappear into shadow before suddenly becoming illuminated again. Occasionally the lighting turns brighter and more neutral, allowing you to properly study the architecture itself.

And that is when you begin to notice what probably leaves the strongest impression of all – the columns. There are so many of them that eventually you stop trying to count. Looking ahead, it genuinely feels as though the forest of columns continues endlessly into the darkness. Reflections in the shallow water make the perspective feel even deeper, with rows of columns fading gradually into shadow. It is something that photographs capture surprisingly well. In several of my own images, the perspective seems almost endless, the lines of columns disappearing far beyond the visible space.

The water itself also looks very different from what many people might expect after watching the film. Today, only a relatively shallow layer remains across the floor of the cistern. But if you look carefully at the walls and columns, you can clearly see marks left by centuries of water erosion much higher up. It becomes obvious that the entire structure was once filled almost to the ceiling. And that is the moment when the scale of the undertaking truly begins to sink in. This was not a decorative underground chamber or a hidden cellar beneath a building. It was a gigantic piece of urban infrastructure designed to supply water to one of the greatest cities of the ancient world.

That was probably the aspect that fascinated me most. More than the mystery of the place, I found myself thinking about the engineering behind it. Of course the cistern is visually spectacular, and it is easy to understand why filmmakers are drawn to it. But standing among those endless rows of columns, the real questions become entirely different. Where did all this water come from? How was it transported here? How was it distributed throughout the city? What sort of system was required to keep Constantinople functioning?

The history of the Basilica Cistern is, in many ways, the history of Constantinople itself – a city that could never have survived without an enormous and highly sophisticated water system. Modern Istanbul is surrounded by water and closely associated with the Bosphorus, yet paradoxically the city struggled for centuries with access to reliable fresh drinking water. Constantinople was built across a series of hills, and its local water sources were far from sufficient for a metropolis that, at its height, may have approached a population of one million people. On top of that, the city lived under the constant threat of sieges. The Byzantines therefore needed a system capable not only of transporting water into the city, but also of storing vast quantities of it in case of crisis.

It was within this context that the Basilica Cistern was constructed. In Turkish, it is known as Yerebatan Sarnıcı, often translated as the Sunken Palace or Underground Palace – a surprisingly accurate name, because the interior feels far more like a monumental subterranean hall than a purely technical structure.

Construction began during the reign of Emperor Justinian I in the sixth century, most likely around 532 AD, shortly after the devastating Nika riots that destroyed large sections of Constantinople. Nika was the chant shouted by crowds during chariot races at the Hippodrome of Constantinople. At the time, the chariot racing factions were far more than sports supporters. They held enormous political, social and even religious influence within the city. Rivalries between them frequently turned violent. Growing public anger over taxation and Justinian’s policies eventually merged with tensions between the factions, leading to a massive revolt against the emperor himself. For several days, Constantinople was effectively in chaos. Crowds set fire to public buildings, street fighting spread across the city, and large parts of the imperial centre were destroyed. The earlier version of Hagia Sophia was among the buildings that burned during the riots. According to historical accounts, Justinian even considered fleeing the city. In the end, however, he chose to crush the uprising with extreme force. Imperial troops trapped large numbers of rebels inside the Hippodrome and carried out a massacre. Paradoxically, the destruction caused by the riots became the starting point for one of the greatest rebuilding programmes in Byzantine history. Justinian used the devastation as an opportunity to reconstruct Constantinople on an even more monumental scale. The present Hagia Sophia was built shortly afterwards, and the Basilica Cistern was also completed or significantly expanded as part of the city’s renewed infrastructure system.

The Basilica Cistern interior. Hidden between the columns are two enormous stone heads of Medusa, placed beneath supporting columns during the construction of the reservoir. One lies sideways, the other upside down, and no one knows with certainty why they were positioned this way. Some historians suggest the heads were deliberately inverted to symbolically neutralise the power traditionally associated with Medusa in the ancient world.

The cistern was designed as a gigantic underground reservoir supplying water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and to the most important buildings in the imperial centre of the city. Even today, its scale is extraordinary. The structure measures roughly 138 metres in length and 65 metres in width, covering nearly 10,000 square metres in total. In practical terms, it is an underground space comparable in size to several modern industrial halls hidden beneath the streets of Istanbul.

Its most distinctive feature is, of course, the forest of columns. There are exactly 336 of them, arranged in twelve rows containing twenty-eight columns each. Most stand approximately nine metres tall. Interestingly, many were not carved specifically for the cistern itself. The Byzantines frequently reused architectural elements from older Roman structures, temples and public buildings, which explains why not all of the columns look identical. Some feature different capitals and decorative details, giving the impression that the entire structure was assembled from fragments of several different historical worlds layered on top of one another.

The cistern itself was constructed primarily from brick and coated with a waterproof mortar designed to withstand constant exposure to water. In some areas, the walls are several metres thick, built to resist the immense pressure created by tens of thousands of tonnes of stored water. When completely full, the reservoir could hold around 80,000 cubic metres of water – tens of millions of litres in total. Standing inside the cistern today and looking up at the visible water marks left high on the walls, it becomes much easier to understand the sheer scale of the undertaking.

The water, of course, did not simply appear there naturally. The Basilica Cistern formed part of the vast hydraulic network that supplied Constantinople. Water was transported into the city through aqueducts stretching for many kilometres from forests, springs and reservoirs located west of the urban centre. The most famous surviving element of this system is the Aqueduct of Valens, parts of which can still be seen in Istanbul today. In practice, the entire network functioned as a huge interconnected system – aqueducts carried water into the city, which was then stored in reservoirs such as the Basilica Cistern before being distributed further throughout Constantinople.

And that is perhaps what makes the cistern so fascinating once you stop seeing it simply as a tourist attraction and begin viewing it as infrastructure. The Byzantines created a system capable of sustaining one of the largest cities in the medieval world for centuries. And they achieved this nearly fifteen hundred years ago, without modern pumps, computers or contemporary construction technologies.

Interestingly, after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople, the cistern gradually lost much of its original importance. Ottoman residents tended to rely more heavily on flowing water and fountains than on vast underground reservoirs. For a period of time, the structure was even partially forgotten. Historical accounts describe local residents lowering buckets through openings in their floors to draw water directly from the cistern below, and in some cases even catching fish there.

European travellers only began rediscovering the site during the sixteenth century, when Western visitors started writing about the extraordinary underground reservoir hidden beneath the streets of Istanbul. Over time, the cistern was cleaned, restored and eventually opened to the public. Today it remains one of the city’s most famous landmarks, yet despite the crowds of tourists it still retains something of the atmosphere of old Constantinople – a city that depended on a hidden underground world of water, tunnels and enormous reservoirs in order to survive.