Honfleur, the Normandy’s picturesque port

Honfleur is a charming port town located on the southern bank of the estuary of the Seine River, in the Calvados department of the Normandy region, in northern France. The town is situated near the point where the Seine River flows into the English Channel.

Its history dates back to the 11th century. Its strategic location at the mouth of the Seine river estuary made it an important maritime port and trading hub during the Middle Ages. Honfleur thrived as a port for the export of goods such as salt, wine, and wood. The port played a crucial role in connecting the inland regions of France, including Paris the French capital, to the maritime trade routes of the English Channel and beyond. Honfleur’s maritime significance extended to exploration as well. In the 16th century, the town became a departure point for some of the early French explorers, including Jacques Cartier, who is renowned for exploring parts of North America, including the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Today it lost its position to le Havre, which is after Marseilles, the second biggest maritime port in France. It is located at the opposite bank of the Seine river and the estuary. In the 11th century, both ports were thriving hubs along the Seine River estuary. However, as time progressed, several key developments led to the ascendancy of Le Havre over Honfleur. Le Havre, located at the mouth of the Seine River on its north bank directly across from Honfleur, offered a deeper and more accessible harbor. This was crucial as ships grew larger in the 19th and 20th centuries, necessitating deeper ports. Additionally, Le Havre’s development was heavily supported by government initiatives, including significant investments in port infrastructure and connections to Paris via rail. This facilitated easier and more efficient transport of goods and people, further enhancing its role as a major commercial port.

The old port and the marina as you approached it.

The old port of Honfleur was converted into a marina. The Old Bassin (Vieux Bassin), which is of a square shape is surrounded by quays and old houses with slate-covered facades. In the past they were both docks and a housing area. Naturally, today, the ground floors and the quays were converted into restaurants and gift shops. So the place seemed to be ideal for sitting down and enjoy lunch in the old port scenery. As the city was thriving through many ages, the buildings surrounding the marina are centuries old. I was feeling there a bit like on a pirate movie set. I remember, one of our group, a traveler who saw many different locations in the world while looking the first time on the old port bay noticed out loud: ‘I feel like in Norway or Denmark’. Walking the streets of Honfleur, and later visiting its main church, I also felt the Scandinavian connection. Having in mind that Normandy was ages ago seized by Vikings, who then melted with the local francophone society, there is some apparent reason behind this association.

The view from the opposite corner on the same buildings.

The opposite side of the port and the marina.

All Norman and Breton historical cities are full of original or carefully reconstructed old streets and houses. Many of the houses are built according to the traditional (for Western Europe) half-timbered technique >>>). Walking the streets in the old port area (behind the small church in the picture above), you can find truly old and well-preserved buildings. We spent three or four hours there, including a lunch break. It was scorching. I was not really hungry. So, instead of sitting down and staying stationary for an hour or so, I left my company to sightsee yet again. We were there in the early afternoon hours. The sun was directly above us. But with all those views, discovering the old streets and taking shots against the sun with the old buildings in the front was really fun.

Honfleur is famous for yet another impressive old building, which is the church of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. The main church parts that are two parallel naves were built one after another in the XV and XVI centuries, respectively. The church is entirely constructed from wood, including the nave, the aisles, and even the bell tower. and belongs to one of the most significant wooden constructions of that kind in France. The wooden construction is a result of the local maritime tradition and the abundance of timber in the region. The decision to use wood was practical and also reflected the skills of shipbuilders in the community who were familiar with working with timber. The naves are resembling an inverted ship’s hulls, showcasing the maritime influence on the design. The bell tower is a separate building planned so to decrease the risk of fire to the church in the case as the tower would be stroke by lightning.

The church is located just behind the old port, with the bell tower on the opposite side.

The bell tower

In recent years the city authorities restored the main dock of the old port. It is difficult not to notice it, as it looks like … new. But still, we can admire the old kind of Norman architecture.

The view from behind a channel where still bigger ships than yachts are allowed to with a view onto the restored old dock building and behind the church of Saint Catherine (on the right).

Honfleur, the Normandy’s picturesque port