Italian Dinner at Its Finest

During our trip to Italy last year, my brother, his baby daughter, and I visited the stunning town of Matera. It was already November, and while the air had a bit of a chill, the weather was still wonderfully bright. At that time of year, despite Matera being a top tourist destination, the crowds had thinned out, leaving us to enjoy the town at a leisurely pace. We were able to sit on the terrace of a small restaurant, without needing a reservation, and take in the breathtaking view of the upper part of old Matera.

For the little one, we ordered a simple dish of gnocchi in a rich tomato sauce, but with such a beautiful view ahead of us and plenty of time on our hands, we decided to indulge in the full Italian dining experience that the restaurant offered. It was the perfect setting to enjoy a leisurely, traditional Italian meal, savouring each course at our own pace.

For most people, Italian cuisine is synonymous with pizza, various types of pasta, and of course, fresh olive oil as a staple accompaniment. However, a true Italian meal, especially in a more refined setting, is a much more elaborate experience, traditionally served in several courses. Our meal followed a classic Italian structure, beginning with antipasti, followed by two main courses, and finishing with dessert. What is important, we enjoyed this meal as a late lunch, but in Italy, this type of multi-course meal is typically served as an evening dinner.

So, what does a traditional Italian meal look like, and what was on our plates?

At the start of the meal, it’s common for freshly baked bread to be served, often accompanied by a bowl of extra virgin olive oil for dipping. Throughout the meal, wine plays a central role. In many restaurants, you can choose between bottled wines, often from renowned regional vineyards, or opt for the local vino della casa (house wine), which is usually served in carafes. House wines, whether red or white, are often simpler but still of good quality. Sparkling or still water is also commonly served.

Antipasto (Starter). The meal often begins with antipasti, which are small, flavourful appetisers meant to stimulate the appetite. These may include bruschetta, cured meats like prosciutto, a variety of cheeses, marinated olives, grilled vegetables, or carpaccio – thinly sliced raw meat (typically beef) or sometimes fish, dressed with olive oil and lemon. The antipasto serves as an introduction to the meal and sets the tone for what is to come.

Primo piatto (First Course), This course is typically based on carbohydrates and may include pasta, risotto, gnocchi, or sometimes soup. Pasta is a staple of Italian cuisine, made from wheat and water (or eggs in some varieties), and comes in countless shapes and sizes, from the well-known spaghetti to more regional variations. Risotto is a creamy dish made from short-grain rice, which is cooked slowly by adding broth little by little, resulting in a rich texture. Gnocchi, on the other hand, are soft dumplings made from potatoes, flour, and sometimes eggs, offering a slightly different texture from pasta but often served with similar sauces. The primo is hearty and filling, but it’s just the beginning of the main part of the meal.

Secondo piatto (Main Course). The secondo is the main course, usually focused on meat or fish. Unlike the primo, it is typically served without starchy additions, like pasta or rice. Common choices include roasted meats, grilled fish, or stews. If you’re dining in Italy, be prepared for the possibility of receiving just the meat with its sauce, like guanciale di manzo (beef cheeks), which are often served in a rich, slow-cooked sauce or meat accompanied by vegetables like in pollo a la Romana (Roman style chicken), where peppers, tomatoes, and onions are slow-cooked with the chicken, creating a rich, flavourful sauce that accompanies the dish. Don’t expect pasta or potatoes on the side, as you’ve likely already had your primo piatto earlier. The secondo is meant to stand on its own, with the focus squarely on the protein and its accompanying sauce.

Contorno (Side Dishes). Side dishes, or contorni, often accompany the secondo. These are usually simple vegetable preparations, such as roasted potatoes, grilled zucchini, or a fresh salad. While not always necessary, contorni add balance to the meal and offer a lighter contrast to the richness of the main course. Contorni in Italy can (though not always) be served in quite generous portions. So before ordering additional vegetables in a restaurant, it’s wise to ask the waiter about the portion size, as you might find yourself with more on a plate than you can comfortably eat on your own.

No Italian meal is complete without a dolce, or dessert. This could be a classic like tiramisu, a silky panna cotta, or light, refreshing fruits, depending on the region and the occasion. Italian desserts are often rich in flavour but not too heavy, providing the perfect sweet finish to a meal. In one of the traditional Italian homes where I was a guest, dessert was a delightful mix of sweets, balanced with fresh fruits and nuts. After the dolce, Italians typically enjoy an espresso (caffè), a strong, concentrated coffee served in a small cup. Coffee is usually the last item served, although some may choose a digestivo such as grappa, limoncello, or amaro to help with digestion.

I traditionally ended the meal with a coffee, though not an espresso. Keeping in mind that Italians usually find it odd when someone orders a milk-based coffee, like cappuccino or caffè latte, with lunch or dinner, I chose an americano instead – a more diluted option, as espresso is a bit too strong for my taste. Interestingly, the name americano is tied to the fact that American soldiers during World War II would dilute their espresso with hot water to make it more like the coffee they were used to back home.

Italian Dinner at Its Finest

Saint Jerome, the Vulgate, a Red Robe and a Skull on a Painting by Caravaggio

When you’re not an art historian and only occasionally find yourself in a distinguished art gallery, it’s difficult to truly understand what you’re looking at without a guide. Often, even if you read the descriptions beneath the paintings, the information you receive typically explains what you can already see, but it doesn’t tell you much about the artist – besides the name and dates. A thorough analysis of every beautiful piece is challenging, especially since the most renowned galleries in Europe are often packed with visitors. Fortunately, you can take photos of the pieces that particularly catch your eye and later, in the comfort of your home, delve deeper by researching them online. Today, I’ll share a painting I saw at the Borghese Gallery in Rome. I’ve already written several posts about this gallery, so I’ll skip discussing it in detail here.

The painting captivated me with its simplicity – both in terms of its subject matter and the way it was executed. The straightforward play of light and shadow, combined with the masterful yet simple brushstrokes, created an extraordinary effect. Some art historians even argue that the piece was never completed. I felt as though I was looking at an ultra-high-resolution photograph. This artwork was created by one of the most distinguished painters of his era, known by the pseudonym Caravaggio. The painting is titled Saint Jerome in His Study or alternatively Saint Jerome Writing.

It portrays Saint Jerome, the renowned Christian scholar, theologian, and translator of the Bible into Latin, dressed in a red robe, deeply engrossed in his work and nearby on the table a naked skull. Below, a commentary about the figure depicted, his life’s work, and the artist himself. 

Saint Jerome (c. 347-420 AD) was a Christian scholar, theologian, and one of the most influential figures in the early Church. He is best known for his translation of the Bible into Latin, known as the Vulgate, which served as the Catholic Church’s official biblical text for many centuries. 

Born as Eusebius Sophronius Hieronymus in Stridon – a village near the border of what is now Croatia and Slovenia – Jerome came from an affluent Christian family, which allowed him to receive an extensive education in Rome. There, he became fluent in Latin and gained a deep understanding of classical literature and philosophy. Jerome lived in a time when Christians enjoyed legal protections and greater societal acceptance, following Emperor Constantine’s Edict of Milan in 313 AD, which legalised Christianity. He was baptised in Rome around 360 AD and soon committed himself to an ascetic lifestyle. Although Jerome had multiple names, he eventually became known by his simplified third name in Latin – Hieronymus. The form Saint Jerome only solidified in Western European languages later on, reflecting his status as a saint and theologian.

Jerome spent several years as a hermit in the Syrian desert, practising austerity and studying Hebrew – an uncommon pursuit for Christian scholars of his era. Although he was ordained as a priest, he continued to lead a monastic life, moving between locations such as Antioch, Constantinople, and eventually settling in Bethlehem. In 382 AD, at the request of Pope Damasus I, Jerome began translating the Bible into Latin. His work involved revising existing Latin texts and translating the Old Testament directly from Hebrew rather than relying on the Greek Septuagint, which resulted in a more precise translation. This version, known as the Vulgate remains a significant biblical text to this day. In addition to his translation work, Jerome was a prolific writer, producing numerous commentaries on biblical books, letters, and polemical works against the heresies of his time. He is recognised as one of the four Latin Doctors of the Church, alongside Augustine, Ambrose, and Gregory the Great.

Saint Jerome is often depicted with symbols such as a lion (based on a popular legend), a skull (symbolising mortality), and a red robe (often mistakenly thought to indicate his status as a cardinal, although this is a common misconception found online).

As for the legend of the lion, which is not historically confirmed, it tells the story of how Saint Jerome showed mercy by rescuing an injured lion. According to the tale, one day a lion entered the monastery where Jerome was staying, limping on one paw. The other monks were terrified, but Jerome approached the animal, noticed a thorn stuck in its paw, and removed it. In gratitude, the lion remained at the monastery, becoming the saint’s loyal companion and even guarding the monastery’s donkey.

Regarding the skull, its image in Christian art, literature, and iconography serves as a reminder that earthly life is just a temporary stage and that every person must confront the inevitability of death. In Christian tradition and sacred art, the skull acts as a memento mori (from Latin, remember that you will die), encouraging reflection on life’s fragility and preparation for the afterlife.

As for the red robe reference, in practice, Saint Jerome was never a cardinal. He lived during a time when the office of cardinal did not exist in its current form, as it only became formally established several centuries later. The red robe he is often depicted wearing symbolises his status as a distinguished scholar of the Church.

Now, a few words about Saint Jerome’s magnum opus. The term Biblia Vulgata is derived from the word vulgata, meaning commonly used, as the text was intended to serve as an accessible version of the Bible for the faithful across Western Christendom. Saint Jerome’s primary challenge was to create a translation based directly on the original biblical languages rather than relying on earlier translations, which was a common practice at the time. The earlier Latin translations of the Bible (known as Vetus Latina) were inconsistent and largely based on the Greek Septuagint, which itself was a translation of the Old Testament from Hebrew into Greek.

Jerome sought greater fidelity to the original texts, and to achieve this, he undertook the translation of the Old Testament directly from Hebrew, a pioneering approach in his era. He believed that relying on the Greek Septuagint introduced errors and distortions due to the multiple layers of translation, which affected the accuracy of the text. Translating directly from Hebrew into Latin presented significant challenges due to the substantial grammatical, syntactic, and semantic differences between the two languages. Hebrew has a completely different structure compared to Latin, often forcing Jerome to make difficult interpretive decisions. Initially, Jerome’s efforts raised various concerns and criticisms, particularly from those who considered the Septuagint an authoritative text. However, these debates are best left to literary scholars for further exploration. Despite early controversies, the Vulgate quickly gained recognition and more than 1000 years later, in 1546, was declared the authoritative biblical text of the Catholic Church at the Council of Trent. An important development occurred after the following 500 years in the 1980s when a revised and corrected version of the Vulgate was produced, known as the Nova Vulgata. This modern version was created to align the text with contemporary philological standards and to address the inaccuracies that had accumulated in the Vulgate over centuries. It incorporates corrections consistent with the original languages of the Bible and represents a refined and authoritative Latin version for use in the Church today.

Caravaggio, born Michelangelo Merisi (1571–1610), was an Italian painter. He grew up amid poverty and hardship after losing his father and grandfather to the plague when he was six. After his initial training in Milan under Simone Peterzano, Caravaggio moved to Rome at 21, where he gained fame for his dramatic use of chiaroscuro (the interplay of light and shadow) and intense realism. His paintings stood out for their vivid detail and emotional depth.

Caravaggio’s early works in Rome were commissioned by churches and private collectors like Cardinal Scipione Borghese. They are characterised by clear, dramatic lighting, which he used to enhance the emotional impact and dramatic tension of his scenes. The subjects varied from biblical narratives to portraits and allegorical representations. His Saint Jerome Writing was commissioned just before he fled Rome in 1606 after killing Ranuccio Tomassoni in a duel, an event that led to a death sentence and forced him into exile. A bounty was placed on his head, effectively allowing anyone to kill him with impunity. His later works, painted during his time in Naples, Malta, and Sicily, became darker and more introspective, reflecting themes of suffering, death, and penance. A prime example is David with the Head of Goliath, in which Caravaggio used his selfportrait for the severed head of Goliath.

Although his art fell out of favour in the 18th century for being too raw and unrefined, Caravaggio’s work was rediscovered in the 20th century and is now considered a cornerstone of modern painting. Today, his paintings can be found in prominent collections, with the Galleria Borghese in Rome holding six of his masterpieces.

Saint Jerome, the Vulgate, a Red Robe and a Skull on a Painting by Caravaggio

From Borghese collection: Minerva

The Borghese Gallery is an impressive art collection and one of the most important museums in Rome, housing a wide range of artworks from different periods and styles. Its collection includes exquisite sculptures, paintings, and decorative arts from the Renaissance and Baroque eras, as well as ancient mosaics and classical artefacts. Due to the gallery’s strict entry policy, visitors are allowed inside for only two hours at a time, making it challenging to fully appreciate every masterpiece on display. Among the photos from this collection, I came across a 17th-century bust by an unknown artist, depicting the goddess Minerva.

Minerva was a prominent goddess in Roman mythology, often associated with wisdom, strategic warfare, and the arts. She is considered the Roman equivalent of the Greek goddess Athena, and was venerated as one of the three deities of the Capitoline Triad, alongside Jupiter and Juno. Jupiter was considered the king of the gods and the god of sky and thunder, symbolizing authority and power. Juno was considered the queen of the gods and the goddess of marriage and childbirth, representing the protection of the state. Minerwa was considered the goddess of wisdom, crafts, and warfare, embodying intellect and strategic war. The worship of the Capitoline Triad in the Roman Empire was believed to ensure the stability and prosperity of Rome, with rituals and sacrifices performed regularly in their honor.

Representations of Minerva typically depict her as a majestic figure, wearing a helmet and holding a spear or shield, symbolising her protective and martial attributes. Her image was frequently featured in Roman art and literature as a symbol of intelligence, courage, and skill.

From Borghese collection: Minerva