The Museum of Islamic Art at the Pergamon Museum

The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is world-famous for its incredible collection of ancient artefacts, including the iconic Ishtar Gate, a breathtaking reconstruction of Babylon’s monumental entrance. However, on the upper floor we can visit the Museum of Islamic Art, which showcases over a millennium of Islamic artistic and cultural achievements. It contains a wide variety of artefacts, including intricately woven Persian carpets, ceramic tiles, manuscripts, and fine metalwork from various regions such as Iran, Turkey, and Egypt.

One of the highlights of the collection is the Aleppo Room, a remarkable example of 17th-century Syrian interior design. This beautifully preserved wooden panelling once furnished the reception hall of a wealthy Christian merchant’s home in Aleppo, then part of the Ottoman Empire. The room’s walls are adorned with vibrant floral motifs, geometric patterns, and inscriptions in Arabic, blending secular and religious imagery in a way that reflects the multicultural nature of life in Aleppo at the time. The panels were sold to a collector in 1912 and later donated to the Pergamon Museum, where they’ve been carefully displayed for over a century. You cannot however admire this room at close as it is hidden behind a glass.

Aleppo Rooom in Museum of Islamic Art at Pergamon Museum

While exploring the museum, my attention was particularly drawn to the collection of prayer niches, known as mihrabs. Several of these mihrabs are on display, each one intricately decorated with geometric designs, calligraphy, and floral motifs. A mihrab is a semicircular recess in the wall of a mosque that indicates the direction of prayer (qibla), which is the direction Muslims should face during prayer – towards Mecca. Mihrabs can be made from various materials, such as marble, ceramics, or wood, and their decorations often include geometric patterns, calligraphy featuring verses from the Qur’an, and plant motifs, characteristic of Islamic art. The mihrab serves both a practical and symbolic function – it is the central point of the prayer space in a mosque and helps worshippers unite in prayer towards the holy city of Islam.

Prayer niches in Museum of Islamic art at Pergamon Museum

The collection of the Museum of Islamic Art at Pergamon Museum was established at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, during a time when interest in Eastern art and culture was growing in Europe. During this period, German archaeologists and researchers conducted numerous expeditions to countries in the Middle East, such as Syria, Egypt, Iran, Turkey, and Iraq. From these expeditions, many Islamic art pieces, including ceramics, textiles, metalwork, and manuscripts, were brought to Berlin.

The Museum of Islamic Art at the Pergamon Museum

Treasures of the Past: The Historic Museum of Tykocin

While traveling across Europe, it is common to frequent prominent museums that draw considerable tourist attention. A wealth of collections – albeit less renowned – can be found in small local museums highlighting a range of historical artifacts. Not long ago, I had the opportunity to explore a few local historical museums in northeastern Poland, one of which in Tykocin.

Tykocin, first mentioned in the 11th century, officially gained its town rights in 1425 under the rule of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Its elevation to an official town brought about increased economic development, particularly due to its position on trade routes connecting Lithuania, Poland, and Prussia. Its transformation into a multicultural hub began in 1522 when Olbracht Gasztołd, the town’s owner and a Lithuanian nobleman, invited Jewish families to settle there. He granted them permission to build a synagogue and establish a cemetery, which laid the foundation for the Jewish presence in the town. Permission for Jewish settlement was necessary due to their distinct religious identity, which set them apart from the Christian majority. Jews often worked in professions like trade and moneylending, which were either restricted or less common among Christians. Legal limitations prevented Jews from owning land or holding public office, requiring them to seek special privileges to live and work in a town. These privileges, granted by rulers, regulated their rights and obligations, offering protection while also reinforcing their separate status within society. By the mid-16th century, Tykocin boasted one of the largest Jewish populations in Poland, with Jewish merchants and artisans playing a vital role in the town’s economic and cultural development.

During the era of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Tykocin took on an even greater significance. King Sigismund Augustus, the last ruler of the Jagiellonian dynasty, made it a royal residence and housed part of the Crown Treasury in the town’s castle. This royal connection further solidified Tykocin’s place in the history of the region. In 1661, King John II Casimir Vasa granted Tykocin and its lands to Stefan Mikołaj Branicki, marking the beginning of the Branicki family’s influence in the region. The Branickis were one of Poland’s most influential magnate families. Although they are better known for his lavish palace in Białystok, the Branicki family was also overseeing the reconstruction of Tykocin Castle in the 18th century as well as the construction of the Baroque Church of the Holy Trinity.

Though the Jewish population was tragically decimated during World War II, Tykocin continues to honor its multicultural roots. One of the most significant landmarks in Tykocin is the old synagogue built in 1642. It is one of the best-preserved synagogues in Poland today. The synagogue now houses a small museum dedicated to Jewish culture and traditions. Sightseein the synagogue was particularly meaningful to me as it was my first encounter with the Jewish religion. Around the corner, at the back door of the former Talmudic House neighbouring the synagogue you can also enjoy a traditional Jewish restaurant.

Tykocin Castle has recently been restored and now functions as a hotel. While the rooms lack a distinctly historical feel, the castle’s steep staircases and old corridors have been carefully preserved, adding to its authentic charm. The dining room, which serves as a restaurant open to the public, maintains a historical atmosphere allowing visitors to experience a bit of the past. In addition to the hotel, the castle also houses a small museum, offering guests a glimpse into its rich history.

In the old Talmudic House, you’ll find a local museum that explores the history of this region of Poland. The museum’s interior was modernized to create a space that aligns with the exhibition’s narrative. The permanent exhibition presents the history of Tykocin from the late Middle Ages to the second half of the 20th century, organized both chronologically and thematically.

While I didn’t capture the entire exhibition, I focused on the lifestyle of the local nobility. The centerpiece of this exhibit is a noble parlor reminiscent of Tykocin’s golden age when the Branicki family owned the town. This room features a recreated old Polish salon, complete with antique furniture and sculptures dressed in traditional attire, representing a noble couple from the Branicki family in the 18th century. The exhibition also includes tableware, tapestries, noble clothing, and knightly and military armor, offering a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of the Polish aristocracy.

The figures of the noble couple we can see in the museum are Jan Klemens Branicki (1689–1771) and his wife Izabela Poniatowska Branicka (1730–1808), who both belonged to the most prominent figures of the Polish aristocracy in the 18th century.

Jan Klemens Branicki, a wealthy magnate, Grand Crown Hetman, and owner of vast estates, including the Branicki Palace in Białystok, played a crucial role in the political life of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Known for his lavish lifestyle and political ambitions, Branicki was one of the most powerful men of his time, even aspiring to the Polish throne. His influence extended beyond politics, as he was a patron of the arts and architecture, significantly shaping the cultural landscape of the region. His wife, Izabela Poniatowska Branicka, the sister of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was equally influential. With her close connections to the royal court, she wielded considerable political influence and was active in charity and cultural patronage. Together, the Branickis shaped the social and cultural life of the Polish nobility, and their contributions to the development of art, architecture, and society left a lasting legacy, still visible today in landmarks such as the Branicki Palace in Białystok.

Treasures of the Past: The Historic Museum of Tykocin

Quiet at Kinderdijk

This year, a bit unusually for me, II took a short trip to the Netherlands with a large travel agency. I was keen on visiting museums and having guided tours, but I didn’t feel like preparing for the trip at all. I was happy to rely entirely on others. I knew on one day we would be going somewhere to take a boat ride among old windmill scenes.

It was a beautiful, very warm July morning. When we boarded the boat, there were no other groups around, and ours had fewer than 20 people. It was quiet and peaceful, with just the sound of water as we sailed.

In truth, I didn’t even know the name of the place until I got back home. When I overheard it in passing, I thought I’d misheard. I don’t speak Dutch, but I know German well, and children and dyke didn’t seem to go together. But the place is indeed called Kinderdijk, which roughly translates as Children’s Dyke. You can see nineteen old Dutch windmills there, and you can even go inside some of them. In fact, most of these windmills are still inhabited today by people, even whole families, who take care of them and are paid for their efforts by the Dutch government. It’s all about preserving heritage. Even the boat we sailed on was captained by a Dutch woman who lives in one of the windmills.

There’s a small ticket office where you can buy entry tickets as well as tickets for the boat ride, a little café, and a souvenir shop. There are also a few toilets, so it’s a great place to enjoy a visit. The photos below show a place full of tranquillity. Unfortunately, that wasn’t entirely the case. During our one-hour cruise, it was indeed just us, but it eventually got crowded. Several groups tried to enter the showcase windmill at the same time. So, I decided not to go in, as I wouldn’t have had the chance to take any clear photos anyway. Still, I consider the morning very successful. The charm was further enhanced by the coffee and apple strudel I enjoyed while gazing at the windmills and boats on the canal.

Now to the name, that at first sight seems a bit weired. Why is a place where you can enjoy old windmills called Kinderdijk, literally Children’s Dyke? The name actually comes from a local legend associated with the St. Elizabeth’s Flood of 1421. During this great flood, which struck the Netherlands, the water breached the dikes and flooded many villages and areas around the river. According to the legend, after the waters receded, the villagers saw a cradle floating on the waves. Inside the cradle was a baby who had survived the flood, and next to the baby was a cat. The cat was jumping from one side of the cradle to the other to keep it balanced and prevent it from tipping over. This sight deeply moved the villagers, and so the place where the cradle was found was named Kinderdijk, in memory of the rescued child.

Kinderdijk is located in the province of South Holland, about 15 kilometres east of Rotterdam, at the confluence of the Lek and Noord rivers. It sits in a low-lying area known as the Alblasserwaard polder, a region traditionally vulnerable to flooding. The windmills were strategically built here to drain excess water from the polder into the rivers. The site is managed by a non-profit foundation established to preserve and maintain this UNESCO World Heritage site. It is responsible for the upkeep of the windmills, the visitor centre, and other facilities, as well as for providing educational resources and managing visitor access. The foundation works closely with local, regional, and national authorities, including the Dutch government and water boards, to ensure that Kinderdijk’s cultural and historical significance is maintained while allowing the public to experience and learn from the site. While there you can also visit the old Wisboom Pumping Station, where you can learn about the broader context of Dutch water management, explaining how windmills were a critical part of an elaborate system that continued to evolve and were eventually replaced with more modern machinery, yet still serving the same purpose of keeping the land dry.

Quiet at Kinderdijk