French Onion Soup

French onion soup (soupe à l’oignon) is one of the most recognisable dishes of French cuisine, although its origins are far older and far more modest than one might expect. Contrary to the modern image of it as a classic of Parisian bistros, the soup grew out of everyday cooking and for centuries was a simple, inexpensive and nourishing meal.

The foundation of the soup is the onion – a vegetable that was available throughout the year in Europe, stored well, and was among the cheapest ingredients in the household. As early as the Middle Ages, various forms of onion soups were prepared across different regions of France, usually based on water or a simple broth. They were part of the daily diet of both rural communities and city dwellers.

The modern form of onion soup began to take shape in the eighteenth century, when French cooking increasingly emphasised techniques that built flavour through the slow caramelisation of ingredients. Long, gentle cooking of onions in butter allowed their natural sweetness and depth of flavour to develop. Combined with beef stock, wine and herbs, this produced a soup with surprisingly rich character despite its very simple ingredients.

Paris played a significant role in the popularity of the dish. In the nineteenth century, onion soup became especially associated with the area around the great Parisian market halls of Les Halles. It was sold during the night and in the early morning in small eateries and bars serving the workers, porters and traders who worked at the market. Warm, aromatic and filling, the soup was an ideal meal for people finishing a night shift or beginning work before dawn. Over time it also became connected with the city’s late-night restaurants and cafés.

The element that is now most distinctive – the toasted bread topped with melted cheese – appeared later. The addition of baguette and cheese, most often Gruyère or Comté, gave the dish a more refined character. During baking, the cheese melts and lightly browns, forming a layer that links the crisp bread with the hot soup beneath. This feature has since become one of the most recognisable signatures of French onion soup.

Although the dish is most closely associated with France, similar onion soups exist in many parts of Europe. Italian cuisine includes onion soups enriched with bread and olive oil, while in Spain there are regional onion soups sometimes served with broth and egg. In Central Europe, onions have long formed the basis of simple vegetable soups. The French version, however, is distinguished by the particularly long caramelisation of the onions and the finishing step of baking the soup with bread and cheese.

Today French onion soup is both a home-style dish and a classic of restaurant menus. It can be found in traditional bistros as well as in contemporary restaurants, where it is often prepared according to a very classical method. It is a perfect example of a dish that began as humble everyday food and gradually became a symbol of French culinary tradition.

The ingredients for about 4 servings are:

  • 1 kg onions (about 6 large onions)
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 40 g butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 litre beef stock
  • 150 ml dry white wine
  • 1 tablespoon plain flour
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 baguette
  • 120 g Gruyère cheese (or Comté), grated

First prepare all the ingredients. Peel the onions, cut them in half, and then slice them into thin crescents. In this recipe the onion is the absolute foundation of the flavour, so it is important that the slices are fairly even – this allows them to caramelise at the same pace. Peel the garlic and finely chop it. The stock should be hot, or at least warm, so that when it is added to the pot it does not interrupt the cooking process.

In a large, heavy pot melt the butter together with the tablespoon of olive oil. The olive oil does not change the flavour of the soup, but it helps stabilise the temperature of the fat and prevents the butter from burning during the long cooking of the onions. Add all the sliced onions to the hot fat. At first the volume of onions will seem very large – however, it will reduce significantly as they cook.

Cook the onions over a medium heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon. At first the onions will become soft and translucent, and only later will they slowly begin to take on a golden-brown colour. This stage is the most important for the flavour of the soup and should not be rushed. The caramelisation should take around 30–40 minutes. The onions should become soft, deeply golden and naturally sweet, but never burnt.

Once the onions have reached a deep golden-brown colour, add the chopped garlic and cook for about a minute more, until it becomes fragrant. Then add the tablespoon of flour and mix it thoroughly with the onions. The flour will lightly thicken the soup later and help bring all the ingredients together into a cohesive broth.

Now comes the moment to deglaze the pot. Pour in the white wine directly over the onions and stir well, scraping the bottom of the pot with the spoon to release everything that has stuck during cooking. These browned fragments are extremely aromatic and form an important part of the soup’s flavour. Let the wine cook for a few minutes until the alcohol evaporates and the liquid reduces slightly.

Only then pour in the hot beef stock. The soup should now become clearly more liquid, though still rich with a large amount of onions. Add the bay leaf and the sprigs of thyme, season lightly with freshly ground black pepper, and allow the soup to simmer gently for about 15–20 minutes. During this time the flavours will come together and the soup will develop its characteristic depth of aroma. At this stage it is worth tasting the soup and only then adding salt if needed, as the stock itself can already be quite salty.

While the soup is simmering, prepare the croutons. Slice the baguette into fairly thick pieces. Arrange them on a baking tray lined with parchment paper and place them in an oven preheated to about 200°C. Toast them for a few minutes until they become lightly golden and crisp. They do not need to be deeply browned – the aim is simply to dry them slightly so they keep their structure once placed in the soup.

When the soup is ready, remove the bay leaf and the sprigs of thyme from the pot. Using a ladle, pour the hot soup into ovenproof bowls or small baking dishes. Place one toasted slice of baguette on top of each portion. The bread will usually rest partly against the rim of the bowl and begin to absorb some of the soup. Spread the grated Gruyère or Comté over the croutons. The cheese should cover the bread in a fairly even layer, but it does not need to be perfectly arranged – it will melt and spread naturally during baking. Place the bowls on a baking tray and put them under the grill in the oven. Bake for a few minutes until the cheese melts completely, begins to bubble, and turns lightly golden in places.

Remove the soup from the oven very carefully – the bowls will be extremely hot. Serve immediately. The cheese should be lightly browned and stretching, the crouton partly soaked with the aromatic soup, and the broth itself rich with caramelised onions.

Bon appétit!

You may also like the recipes for: German Potato and Sausage Eintopf, Lithuanian Cold Beet Soup, French Beef Bourguignon, East European Solyanka or New Zealand Chowder.

French Onion Soup

More on revolutionary France: La Convention Nationale

Not recalling much from history lessons in school, I find that while traveling and sightseeing, I often rediscover facts that were imparted to us during our childhood. On a recent occasion, I posted about the introduction of the Gregorian Calendar. While delving into information about challenges faced during its implementation, I learned that during the French Revolution, revolutionaries sought to create their own calendar as a deliberate departure from anything associated with the Catholic Church. The radical body advocating for this alternative calendar was the National Convention, a governing body ultimately dissolved for being too radical and too revolutionary.

The National Convention (La Convention Nationale >>>) was a pivotal political body that played a central role during the first years of the French Revolution. It was established in September 1792, following the abolition of the monarchy and the declaration of the French Republic. The National Convention in revolutionary France served as the primary legislative and executive assembly from 1792 to 1795.

Symbolic picture of the National Convention in the Pantheon of Paris.

Here is the short story of National Convention in revolutionary France:

Formation and Abolition of the Monarchy:

  • The National Convention was established in the aftermath of the August 10, 1792 insurrection in Paris, which led to the fall of the monarchy.
  • On September 21, 1792, the National Convention officially declared the First French Republic, marking the end of the Bourbon monarchy.

Radicalization of the Revolution:

  • The Convention was marked by a radical phase of the French Revolution, often referred to as the Reign of Terror (1793-1794) characterized by extreme political violence, mass executions and other radical measures.
  • This period saw the rise of radical political factions, including the Jacobins advocating for a democratic republic led by figures like Maximilien Robespierre.

Committee of Public Safety:

  • The Convention established the Committee of Public Safety, a powerful executive committee, in April 1793. It was responsible for safeguarding the revolution through measures including the Reign of Terror, which aimed to eliminate perceived threats to the Republic.
  • Maximilien Robespierre became one of the most influential figures associated with the Committee. He was the key architect of the Reign of Terror.

Repression and Revolutionary Tribunal:

  • The Convention initiated measures to suppress counter-revolutionary activities and perceived enemies of the Republic.
  • The Revolutionary Tribunal, established in March 1793, conducted trials that often resulted in the execution of individuals deemed threats to the Revolution.

Execution of Louis XVI:

  • One of the significant decisions made by the National Convention was the trial and execution of King Louis XVI in January 1793. This event marked a turning point in the Revolution.

Republican Calendar:

  • The Convention initiated cultural changes, including the adoption of the Republican Calendar, replacing the traditional Gregorian calendar.
  • The Republican Calendar embraced the decimal system, with each month (with original new names) consisting of three ten-day weeks, making a total of 30 days. This resulted in a 10-day week instead of the traditional 7-day week.

War and External Threats:

  • The Convention faced external threats from monarchies that opposed the revolutionary ideals. This led to the establishment of the Committee of Public Safety and the implementation of the levee en masse, the compulsory enlistment of citizens into the military.

End of the Radical Phase:

  • The radical phase of the Convention came to an end with the fall of Robespierre and other leading Jacobins in July 1794 (Thermidorian Reaction named after the month of Thermidor in the French Republican calendar).
  • Robespierre and his associates, including Louis Antoine de Saint-Just and Georges Couthon, were arrested by forces loyal to the National Convention. The arrest was orchestrated by political opponents who were alarmed by the radicalism and the widespread use of the guillotine during the Reign of Terror.
  • The Convention then entered a more moderate phase, and the Committee of Public Safety’s powers were reduced.

Constitution of 1795:

  • The Convention drafted the Constitution of 1795, establishing the Directory as a new form of government.
  • The National Convention held its last session on October 26, 1795, marking the end of its existence. It was replaced by the Directory.
  • In 1799, General Napoleon Bonaparte staged a coup d’état, overthrowing the Directory and establishing the Consulate, which marked the beginning of Napoleon’s rise to power.

The National Convention played a crucial role in shaping the course of the French Revolution, overseeing radical changes, internal and external conflicts, and the establishment of the First French Republic. It left a lasting impact on the political and cultural landscape of France in the late 18th century.

More on revolutionary France: La Convention Nationale

The village of Locronan

Some time ago, we made us on a trip to visit Normandy and Brittany (Northern France). Besides sightseeing some prominent sites on a must-see list, our journey was about slowing down and walking the streets of picturesque historic towns and villages as well taking time to enjoy local specialties.

One of the spots on our itinerary was Locronan, a small historical village located in the Western part of the French Brittany. Unlike many historical places in this part of Europe, where carefully refurbished medieval buildings mix with modern shop windows and well-frequented elegant restaurants, Locronan seems to be somehow stuck in the past.

We visited this place on a rainy summer day. With only a few tourists walking the streets on that day, the site seemed to be like asleep. The village is quite small, with only a couple of main streets that all lead to the main square. The old houses built of granite stones are surrounded by much greenery often rooted or growing directly through walls. In side-streets, you can see one or two ruined properties left as they were by the owners but carefully taken care of by nature. Forgotten but somehow beautiful.

There are plenty of small restaurants in the village, but you will barely find there bigger shops. Only boutiques and craft workshops. It is said, only about eight hundred people inhabit this place. For a moment we talked to an old lady sitting in the window watching her beautiful garden growing in the rain. The life seemed to be very quiet and slow in Locronan on that day.

But you can clearly see that in the past it probably was a thriving spot. Indeed, for years during the 18th and 19th centuries Locronan was famous for its hemp fields, of which the local weavers produced sails and ropes. The place is located around twenty-five kilometers away from the sea. The proximity of Locronan to the coast made it a convenient destination for sailors in need of replacement equipment. The town became a bustling hub, frequented not only by local traders but also by seafarers who recognized the quality and reliability of the hemp-based products produced there.

The village was also a pilgrimage center. According to legend, Locronan was once around the 6th century a secluded refuge for Saint Ronan, an Irish hermit who sought solitude and spiritual contemplation in the area. Hence, many donations had been through ages flowing into the village. The local Gothic cathedral is on the must-see list while on site.

The village consists of houses almost entirely built in past ages, mostly in XVII or XVIII century. Since the early XX century, Locronan heritage is protected by law. One notable legal measure implemented to protect Locronan’s heritage is its designation as a “Monument Historique” (Historical Monument). This classification, established in France, grants the village a special status and imposes stringent regulations on any alterations or renovations made to its buildings and structures. The place is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

The village of Locronan