St. John Sarkander Chapel in Olomouc

2024 By justmovingaround in Sacred Grounds Tags: baroque, chapel, Christianity, Czech Republic, Czechia, John Sarkander, martyrdom, Olomouc

When I went on a brief business trip to the Czech city of Olomouc last year, I didn’t expect that I would take so many photos in the short breaks between meetings. The weather was favorable, albeit very hot. Olomouc captivates with its baroque architecture, evident in several churches and chapels around the old town, as well as in votive columns and fountains. I photographed one such chapel just before our return home, but I did not have time to read about it. It is a beautiful small baroque chapel located in a narrow street leading to the Upper Square. The chapel is dedicated to Saint John Sarkander and is built on the site where St. John Sarkander was imprisoned and tortured to death in 1620. The chapel is open to visitors, but its interior can only be viewed through a grate.

The John Sarkander chapel was erected in the early 18th century (between 1708 and 1710) to honor Sarkander’s martyrdom and is located near the former city walls, precisely at the spot of the former prison. Its architecture and interior decoration reflect the baroque style, characterized by elaborate ornamentation. Inside the chapel, there is an altar with a depiction of Sarkander’s torture, and the crypt houses a glass coffin containing a wax figure of the saint, surrounded by relics and artifacts associated with his life and death.

Chapel of St. John Sarkander in Olomouc Czech Republic

John Sarkander (1576–1620) was a Moravian priest who became a notable figure in the history of the Catholic Church, especially within the Czech Republic and Poland, for his steadfast adherence to the seal of confession and his subsequent martyrdom. Born in Skoczow, Poland, after his ordination in 1607, he served in several parishes. His life took a dramatic turn in 1618, following the outbreak of the Thirty Years’ War. In 1620, after the death of his wife, he moved to Moravia and served in the parish of Holesov. Sarkander was accused by some members of the Protestant community of conspiring with Catholic forces. The accusations were largely based on his interactions with a Catholic army that had passed through the area, but the primary charge against him was his refusal to break the seal of confession when pressured to reveal the confessions of those involved in anti-Habsburg activities. Sarkander was imprisoned in Olomouc, where he was subjected to severe torture. Despite this, he refused to divulge any information he had received during confession, upholding the confidentiality that is central to the Catholic understanding of the sacrament. He died from his injuries on March 17, 1620, without having been convicted of any crime. Sarkander was beatified in 1859 and canonized a saint by Pope John Paul II in 1995.

To my OLOMOUC main site

To ON SACRED GROUNDS site

Votive Columns of Olomouc. Baroque Landmarks in the Heart of Czechia

2023 By justmovingaround in Sacred Grounds Tags: architecture, baroque, Catholic, Czech Republic, Czechia, Olomouc, Virgin Mary Column, votive columns

In the heart of Olomouc, a small university town in eastern Czechia, two monumental baroque columns quietly mark centuries of devotion, history and resilience. One of them – the Holy Trinity Column – is even listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Whether you’re passing through or staying longer, they’re worth stopping for and looking up.

While travelling, you sometimes come across things that seem obvious because you’ve seen something similar somewhere before. However, it’s only when you’re back home and want to find additional information by looking at photos that you discover the item has its own symbolism and was a widely practiced tradition. This is especially true when your last history lesson was a very long time ago. This year in Olomouc (Czechia), I took a closer look at the tradition of erecting votive columns.

What are votive columns?

Votive columns, also known as votive pillars, are religious or symbolic structures that are erected as an expression of gratitude or devotion to a deity or higher power. These columns are typically set up to commemorate a vow or to give thanks for a favor granted, a prayer answered, or a miracle received. The tradition of erecting votive columns has ancient roots and can be found in various cultures and religions around the world. The votive columns themselves vary widely in design and construction. They can range from simple wooden or stone pillars to more elaborate structures adorned with carvings, inscriptions, or religious symbols. In some cases, votive columns may be placed in or near religious sites, such as temples, churches, or shrines. While the specific practices and customs associated with votive columns may vary across cultures and religions, the underlying theme remains a desire to express gratitude and devotion through the creation of a physical structure dedicated to the divine.

In Europe, Marian columns and Holy Trinity columns are distinct forms of religious monuments that flourished in Catholic countries, particularly during the 17th and 18th centuries. While both share the columnar structure and serve as expressions of faith, they have different emphases in terms of symbolism and purpose.

Marian columns, also known as plague columns, are religious monuments depicting the Virgin Mary at the top. They were often erected in response to the devastating impact of plagues as a gesture of thanksgiving for the end of the plague and as a means of seeking solace and divine protection. The Virgin Mary atop these columns symbolizes hope, intercession, and divine intervention during times of crisis.

Holy Trinity columns, while sharing the columnar structure with Marian columns, serve a broader purpose. They are erected to celebrate the Christian faith and the church, emphasizing the Holy Trinity – Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. Holy Trinity columns are manifestations of public faith, affirming the importance of religious devotion in the community.

Examples of both a Marian Column and a Holy Trinity Column may be found in the Czech city of Olomouc.

The Virgin Mary Column

Located at the Lower Square (Dolní náměstí) in Olomouc, the Virgin Mary Column was built between 1716 and 1720. It was erected in gratitude for the protection of the city during the plague. In the 18th century, Olomouc, like many other European cities, faced several devastating plagues. One notable epidemic was the plague that struck in 1713. This outbreak was part of a larger pandemic known as the Great Northern War plague, which occurred during the conflict between the Northern European powers. The column features a statue of the Virgin Mary on a Corinthian column.

Virgin Mary Column located at the Lower Square of Olomouc

Holy Trinity Column

Following the construction of Virgin Mary Column, a much bigger and elaborate column was errected in the Upper Square (Horní náměstí). The Holy Trinity Column was built between 1716 and 1754 not only as an expression of gratitude for the end of the epidemic, but also as a broader expression of religious faith and gratitude within the context of the Counter-Reformation — a period marked by efforts to strengthen Catholicism in response to the Protestant Reformation.

Holy Trinity Column located at the Upper Square of Olomouc

The column is an elaborate Baroque structure designed by the architect Wenzel Render and the sculptor Ondřej Zahner. At its zenith, the column boasts gilded copper sculptures of the Holy Trinity, presided over by the Archangel Gabriel, with the poignant scene of the Assumption of the Virgin beneath.

The base of the column unfolds in three levels, each intricately decorated with statues and reliefs of saints deeply rooted in regional religious heritage. The uppermost level features figures connected to the earthly life of Jesus: Saint Anne, Saint Joachim, Saint Joseph, and Saint John the Baptist, accompanied by Saint Lawrence and Saint Jerome, patrons of the Olomouc town hall chapel. The second tier focuses on saints significant to Moravia and Bohemia, including Saints Cyril and Methodius, pioneers of Christianity in Great Moravia, as well as Saint Blaise, Saint Adalbert of Prague, and Saint John of Nepomuk, prominent figures in Czech Catholic tradition. The lowest level introduces Saint Maurice (patron of Austria), Saint Wenceslas (patron of Bohemia), Saint Florian (protector against disasters), and Saint John of Capistrano, a Franciscan preacher who once spoke in Olomouc. It concludes with Saint Anthony of Padua, linked to the city’s Franciscan monastery, and Saint Aloysius Gonzaga, the patron of students — a reflection of Olomouc’s academic legacy.

Seeing both columns in Olomouc — the more modest Virgin Mary Column and the grand Holy Trinity Column — helped me notice something I might have overlooked before. These monuments aren’t just decorative relics from the past; they reflect how people once turned to faith during times of crisis, and how entire communities expressed hope, gratitude, and identity in public space.

I’ve probably walked past similar columns in other cities without giving them much thought. But after taking the time to learn more here, I know I’ll look at them differently the next time I come across one — not just as historical objects, but as part of a larger, living tradition that still leaves a mark on the places we visit.

To OLOMOUC photo gallery

To ON SACRED GROUNDS main site

Votive Columns of Olomouc. Baroque Landmarks in the Heart of Czechia

St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc

2023 By justmovingaround in Sacred Grounds Tags: baroque, Catholic, church, Czech Republic, Czechia, Olomouc

St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc is a distinctive example of Baroque architecture in Moravia and a testament to the city’s rich religious heritage. While not the most prominent church in Olomouc, it holds a unique place among the city’s sacred buildings thanks to its three-domed structure, dynamic interior, and deep historical roots within the former Dominican complex. Its architecture and decoration reflect both the spiritual ambitions of the Counter-Reformation and the artistic language of the Baroque in Central Europe.

St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc, Czechia | Église Saint-Michel à Olomouc, Tchéquie | Michaelskirche in Olmütz, Tschechien | Kostel svatého Michala v Olomouci, Česko | Kościół św. Michała w Ołomuńcu, Czechy

For centuries, Olomouc has played a vital role in the history of the Czech lands – as an administrative, cultural, and above all, religious center of Moravia. Already in the 11th century, it became the seat of a bishopric, and in 1777 it was elevated to an archbishopric, further reinforcing its status as the spiritual heart of the region. Throughout the Middle Ages and early modern period, Olomouc was a place where political authority and ecclesiastical power met, and its rich religious architecture still testifies to that legacy. In the modern era, the city flourished as a center of learning and faith, home to one of Central Europe’s oldest universities, founded by Jesuits in the 16th century.

Numerous churches, monasteries, and chapels were built, shaping the city’s unique spiritual landscape. Among Olomouc’s most significant churches are the Gothic Cathedral of St. Wenceslas, whose spire rises over 100 meters; the Church of St. Maurice, renowned for housing the largest pipe organ in the Czech Republic; the Basilica of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary at Svatý Kopeček, a baroque pilgrimage site; and the Chapel of St. John Sarkander, built in neo-Gothic style on the site of the saint’s imprisonment and martyrdom. Last but not least, is the Church of St. Michael, with its Baroque design and three domes symbolizing the Holy Trinity.

St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc (Kostel svatého Michala), Czech Republic, is a historic and architecturally significant church located in the city’s Old Town. The church is dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel. Over the centuries, St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc has witnessed an abundance of artistic craftsmanship and dedication. The Church stands as a testament to the enduring commitment of artists and restorers, and its interior is a sight that truly takes one’s breath away. Here its history.

St. Michael's Church in Olomouc, Czechia | Église Saint-Michel à Olomouc, Tchéquie | Michaelskirche in Olmütz, Tschechien | Kostel svatého Michala v Olomouci, Česko | Kościół św. Michała w Ołomuńcu, Czechy

It is assumed that the original Romanesque chapel of St. Michael was built on a hill overlooking the Morava River in Olomouc in the 10th or 11th century. According to Dominican legend, St. Hyacinth preached here for four months in 1219. In 1244, King Wenceslaus I donated this chapel and several nearby houses to the Dominican order to support the emerging Dominican monastery in Olomouc.

Later, it was rebuilt in Gothic style. The construction of the new church and convent took almost forty years, with its completion associated with the year 1284. In 1398, the new church and monastery were severely damaged in a widespread fire. Ongoing repairs were hampered by another fire in 1404. It was rebuilt once more. Unfortunately, this Gothic structure endured significant damage over the years due to numerous fires and the ravages of the Thirty Years’ War when the Swedish army occupied Olomouc for eight years. Valuable items from the church were stolen, and the buildings deteriorated. The Dominicans returned in 1650 and carried out the most necessary repairs to continue their activities.

However, the state of the church required a major renovation. In 1673, it was decided that the old Gothic church would be demolished, and a new one built. As a result, it became necessary to undertake an extensive reconstruction, a project that spanned from 1673 to 1699. This grand reconstruction effort effectively transformed the church, giving it its distinctive Baroque character. During this process, virtually the only remnants from the previous church that were preserved were the bell tower, which is now open to tourists, and a portion of the vaulted ceiling in the sacristy. The architects behind this ambitious project, Giovanni Pietro Tencalla (1605-1680) and later Domenico Martinelli (1650-1716), played a pivotal role in redefining the church’s appearance, imbuing it with opulent Baroque interior decorations and architectural elements. The new St. Michael’s Church was crowned with three domes, the largest of which measures 35 meters, making it the first Moravian building with domes. The main dome collapsed during construction works in 1688, had to be dismantled, and was completed a year later. An additional noteworthy detail is the church’s original organ, which dates back to 1706. This historic instrument was crafted by David Sieber (1676-na), an organist from Brno.

St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc was consecrated on May 9, 1707, marking a significant moment in its history. However, just two years later, in July 1709, the church faced a major setback when it was severely damaged by a large fire. The roofs were burned, the fire affected part of the choir space, and it damaged the main altar. Subsequent repairs took another twenty years. The roofs with the domes were restored, the cloister and the bell tower were repaired, a new facade was installed, and new tiles were laid inside. New altars, pews, and sculptures of the apostles on decorative pillars in the nave were added. The stucco interior decoration was designed by Baltazar Fontana (1661-1733). The restoration was completed in 1730 with the installation of a new main altar.

In 1830, the central dome of the church had to be repaired again. In the late 1830s, a renovation and expansion of the priestly seminary, designed by architect Antonín Arche (1813-1896), was cArried out. A Neoclassical portico with fourteen Tuscan columns and a staircase was added to the seminary building. In 1860, the church’s domes were decorated with frescoes to commemorate the beatification of Jan Sarkander. In the late 19th century, between 1892 and 1898, the church underwent yet another transformation, this time a Neo-Baroque reconstruction. This reconstruction aimed to restore and enhance the church’s architectural and artistic elements in line with the Neo-Baroque style of the period. The interior was decorated with frescoes and rich stucco work with extensive gilding. The church walls were covered with artificial marble in various colors. All windows were fitted with stained glass. The main altar was reconstructed, and the relics of St. Adalbert from the chapel at Hukvaldy Castle were placed in its mensa. The Baroque statue of Archangel Michael was replaced with an altarpiece. The reconstruction was completed in December 1897.

In the second half of the 20th century, the church of St. Michael underwent only maintenance and partial restoration work. In 1971, a new marble floor was laid, and between 1973 and 1975, a comprehensive restoration of the organ was carried out. The organ had been damaged by artillery fire at the end of World War II. After the change of regime in 1989, St. Michael’s Church in Olomouc saw a period of significant restoration and revitalization efforts, marking a new chapter in the church’s history. These restoration works aimed to preserve the historical and architectural significance of the church, as well as to enhance its cultural and artistic value. The works ended in 2020.

Below some photos of its stunning interior.

The interior of the Church of St. Michael is a clear example of Central European Baroque. Its layout is defined by three domes arranged along the nave, symbolizing the Holy Trinity and emphasizing vertical structure. The domes, pierced by windows, bring natural light into the space.

The walls and vaults are decorated with stucco ornament – garlands, angels, and scrollwork – that suggest movement and height. A notable element throughout the church is the use of red and pink marble, especially on columns, pilasters, and altar structures. This stone contrasts with pale stucco surfaces and gold accents, creating a balanced color scheme.

The main altar stands at the end of the nave, framed by marble columns and decorated with sculpture. Side altars follow the same arrangement along the nave, consistent with the overall design. At the rear, a historic pipe organ forms part of the liturgical setting.