No clue who first decided that a hot, tangy-spicy soup with gherkins and tomato paste made sense the morning after. But they weren’t wrong. Solyanka tastes like something between a hug and a mild electric shock. These days, it’s not just a rescue remedy – it’s something I cook simply because it’s genuinely good.

Solyanka | Solianka | Soljanka | Солянка | 索梁卡汤 | ソリャンカ | 솔랸카

Two years ago, we went on a business trip to Riga. We arrived in the afternoon, the day before our official meetings. Riga offers a wide array of restaurants, but my colleagues were meticulous in researching recommendations online. When we finally settled into a restaurant and began reading the menu, one of our companions rubbed his hands together in anticipation and exclaimed, Solyanka! Curious, I asked, What’s that? You don’t know? he replied. You must try it. It’s absolutely delicious, though quite salty. Intrigued, I took his advice and ordered it.

It was one of those rare occasions when I photographed every dish I ordered. I can’t quite remember whether the solyanka I had that evening was made with meat or fish, but for the appetizer, I chose a plate of cold fish, and for the main course, it was baked eel with a mashed potato sauce and salad. Riga, being close to the sea, is one of those cities where you can confidently order fish without hesitation. In fact, when I returned to Riga the following year, I went back to the same restaurant and ordered the baked eel dish again.

I must admit, the tradition of Solyanka was unfamiliar to me, likely due to my family’s culinary preferences, even though it seems to be considered a national dish in my country. I enjoyed it immensely. A year later, I had it again in a restaurant in Tallinn. On both occasions, I didn’t pay much attention to the ingredients. It wasn’t until earlier this year, while I was preparing traditional Polish cucumber soup, that I happened to watch a popular cooking show where the host was making Solyanka. That’s when I realized that to make Solyanka, I would need to add more sour brine from the cucumbers, along with some tomato paste and sausage. Luckily, I had all the ingredients in my fridge, so I decided to make Solyanka instead of cucumber soup. The host of the cooking show said, solyanka was the perfect cure for the morning after, to cope with a hangover after a party. On second thought, I agree.

Solyanka with the necessary ingredients (generated by the AI)

Solyanka is a traditional Eastern European soup known for its rich, tangy flavour, typically made with meat, fish, or mushrooms. It’s popular in several countries, each with its variations. In Russia, solyanka includes a mix of meats (beef, pork, or sausage), fermented cucumbers, olives, capers, onions, tomato paste, and is often served with lemon and sour cream. Ukrainian solyanka is similar but may include additional vegetables like carrots and potatoes, giving it a milder, more balanced flavour. Belarusian solyanka focuses on smoked meats, providing a rich, smoky taste. In East Germany, solyanka, introduced after World War II, is now traditional. It usually features sausages, fermented cucumbers, onions, tomato paste, and bell peppers, often with a thicker, stew-like consistency and a milder flavour. Latvian Solyanka also incorporates potatoes and local spices, while Lithuanian solyanka often uses local sausages, adding a deeper, smokier flavour. Polish solyanka is similar but might include smoked fish, giving it a unique twist. In Kazakhstan, solyanka is spicier, reflecting local tastes. Overall, while the basic concept of Solyanka remains consistent, each country adds its regional touch, making this soup a versatile and cherished dish across Eastern Europe.

Before I explain how to make solyanka (using the recipe I followed for my very first homemade version), I should clarify the difference between fermented cucumbers and pickled cucumbers. For solyanka, you need to use fermented cucumbers along with the brine they were fermented in. Fermented cucumbers, which are naturally fermented in a salt brine, have a sharp, tangy flavour that adds an essential sour note to solyanka. This tanginess is crucial, as it balances the richness of the meats and other hearty ingredients in the soup. In contrast, pickled cucumbers, preserved in a vinegar-based solution, tend to be sweeter and milder. While they are delightful in many dishes, they are not suitable for solyanka, as they lack the bold sourness needed for this dish. To create a truly authentic solyanka, always opt for fermented cucumbers, ensuring your soup reflects the true spirit of Eastern European cuisine.

The main igredients needed to make fermented cucumbers: water, salt, cucumbers, dill, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaves.

To make traditional fermented cucumbers, start by preparing a brine by dissolving one tablespoon of salt in one liter (4 cups) of water. You’ll need about one kilogram of small, firm cucumbers, which should be washed thoroughly. In a large, clean glass jar or ceramic crock, place a layer of fresh dill, about one bunch, along with 4-6 cloves of garlic (slightly crushed), a teaspoon of whole black peppercorns, and 2-3 bay leaves at the bottom. Arrange the cucumbers upright in the jar, packing them tightly, and add more dill, garlic, and, optionally, a few pieces of horseradish root as you fill the jar. Once the jar is full, pour the brine over the cucumbers, ensuring they are completely submerged. If needed, place a weight on top of the cucumbers to keep them below the brine. Cover the jar loosely with a cloth or lid, and leave it at room temperature for 3-7 days, depending on how sour you want the cucumbers to be. During fermentation, the cucumbers will develop a sharp, tangy flavor. Taste them after a few days to see if they’ve reached your preferred level of sourness. Once you’re satisfied, transfer the jar to the refrigerator to slow down the fermentation process. The fermented cucumbers can be stored in the fridge for several weeks, maintaining their crunchy texture and vibrant taste. Regularly check the surface of the brine and skim off any foam or scum that forms during fermentation.

To prepare a hearty Solyanka with fermented cucumbers, sausage, and potatoes, start by making a robust stock. Begin with about 1.5 liters of beef or chicken broth, simmered from bones with vegetables such as carrots, celery, and onions, to create a rich, flavorful base. This stock should be well-seasoned with salt and pepper and can be prepared in advance or made fresh on the day. In Poland, many homemakers often prepare larger quantities of broth so that they can use the stock in the following days to make other soups.

The main igredients needed to make solyanka: broth, butter, onion, garlic, smoked sausage, fermented cucumbers and its brine, potatoes, pepper, bay leaves, paprika, cumin, tomato paste, sour cream or yoghurt, parsley and dill.

Heat a large pot over medium heat and add a tablespoon of butter or oil. Finely chop one large onion and sauté it until golden brown. Add two cloves of minced garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant. Next, slice 200–300 grams of smoked sausage and add it to the pot. Fry the sausage until it begins to brown.

Meanwhile, peel and dice two medium-sized potatoes into bite-sized pieces. Add the potatoes to the pot, stirring them with the sausage and onions. To help the potatoes cook more evenly in the soup, you can briefly soak them in boiling water, then drain before adding.

Pour in your prepared broth, bringing everything to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat and let the soup simmer until the potatoes are tender (about 15 minutes). While the soup simmers, take four fermented cucumbers (about 200 grams) and dice them. Add the cucumbers to the pot along with two tablespoons of tomato paste. Stir well to combine. Pour in about 100 ml of cucumber brine to enhance the flavour. Let the soup simmer for another 10 minutes. For seasoning, add a teaspoon of smoked paprika, half a teaspoon of ground cumin, and a bay leaf. Taste and adjust with salt, pepper, or more brine if needed. Once done, remove the bay leaf and serve.

Ladle into bowls and top with a dollop of sour cream or yoghurt and a few lemon slices. Fresh dill or parsley makes a perfect garnish.

You may also like the recipes for: French Onion Soup, German Potato and Sausage Eintopf, Lithuanian Cold Beet Soup, French Beef Bourguignon, or New Zealand Chowder.