Whanganui

A view onto the Whanganui, New Zealand

Whanganui is a national park located in the North Island of New Zealand. Established in 1986, the park covers an area of about 742 square kilometers and is named after the Whanganui River, which flows through it from the mountains to the Tasman Sea. It holds deep cultural significance for the local Māori tribes, particularly for the Whanganui iwi (tribe), who view the river as a living ancestor. In 2017, in recognition of the deep spiritual connection between the Whanganui iwi and the river, the New Zealand government passed groundbreaking legislation granting the Whanganui River legal personhood. This historic decision acknowledges the river as an indivisible and living whole.

The park offers stunning landscapes, including untouched forests. The main outdoor attraction is considered to be the Whanganui Journey, a canoe or kayak trip that spans 3 to 5 days, covering 145 kilometers of the river. The photo above was taken at the start of our journey from a scenic overlook on a hill.

There is only one main road leading into the park, and it’s a dead end. This means to leave the park, you must turn back. At the entrance, there’s a sign warning that the nearest gas station is very far away. If you don’t have a full tank, it’s advisable to turn back and fill up. We spent only several hours in the park, mainly admiring the views from our car. Only briefly we visited a Māori cultural center, where we enjoyed some coffee.

Whanganui

The Haka

The haka is a traditional Māori war dance from New Zealand, originally performed by warriors before a battle, showcasing their prowess and unity as a way to intimidate opponents. Over time, the haka evolved beyond its martial roots to serve various social functions within Māori culture. It is performed at ceremonies and celebrations, including weddings and funerals, to honor guests and show the community’s pride or grief.

Characterized by vigorous movements, rhythmic stomping with the feet, and the chanting of a loud and rhythmic chant, the haka involves synchronized body slapping and facial expressions, such as protruding tongues and fierce eye movements, which convey the intensity of emotions.

Forms of the haka, or similar ritual dances and chants, were present in various Polynesian cultures before the Māori developed their distinctive version in New Zealand. The Polynesian ancestors of the Māori brought with them a variety of traditional chants and dances when they migrated to New Zealand from other Polynesian islands, such as Hawaii, Tahiti, and the Cook Islands, around the 13th century. In New Zealand, these ancestral Polynesian practices gradually evolved into the haka as known today, influenced by the unique conditions and needs of the Māori. While each Polynesian culture has its distinct form of dance and chant, the haka is specifically a Māori adaptation that has become globally recognized.

The most recognized haka, Ka Mate, attributed to Chief Te Rauparaha of the Ngāti Toa tribe, gained international fame through its adoption by New Zealand sports teams, notably the All Blacks rugby team, who perform it before international matches. The All Blacks have also developed a new haka called Kapa o Pango. It was first performed in 2005 and is distinct from the more traditional Ka Mate haka that had been performed by the team since 1905. Kapa o Pango is intended to reflect the team’s heritage, culture, and identity. The haka was created by Derek Lardelli, a renowned Māori cultural advisor and haka expert. The words and actions of Kapa o Pango are designed to emphasize the team’s connection to New Zealand and the pride they carry as representatives of their country. Unlike Ka Mate, which is a celebration of life and vitality, Kapa o Pango focuses on the team’s determination and challenges.

This practice has popularized the haka globally, transforming it into a symbol of New Zealand’s national identity and a display of unity and respect, reflecting the deep-rooted traditions and values of the Māori people.

The Haka