NEW ZEALAND TRIP DIARIES. PART FIVE

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WRITTEN IN A TE-ANAU COFFEE SHOP

On February 5th, 2018, a Tuesday, I was feeling unwell. In the midst of my discomfort, I pondered documenting a journey to the ends of the earth, a truly extraordinary destination with remarkably comfortable travel conditions, only to see it all fall apart. My companions attempted to endure by finding solace in laughter and jest, but the noise was overwhelming. It was all too loud, too conspicuous. Following an intensive course in psychology the previous year, I found myself observing people’s defense mechanisms. Negation, rationalization, withdrawal, and falsification were all around me. I tried to engage them in rational discourse, but it seemed futile.

At least today, there was no senseless sunrise hunting. We stayed the night in Te-Anau, on the Southern Island, in a comfortable motel close to a deep-blue lake. We arrived quite late, but as with all the hotel and motel rooms we stayed in, the comfortable apartment with a fully equipped kitchen and two bathrooms allowed us to rest a bit from our unhealthy travel style. In the early morning, still with my head on a pillow, for a long moment, I observed a white boat slowly drifting alongside the coastline. White sails and deep-blue waters. A view that always works to soothe.

My mochaccino is delicious, by the way. I think it is some kind of mixture of coffee and cocoa. Definitely my favorite type of coffee in New Zealand.

In just a few hours, we will embark on a journey to the Milford Sound area, a place renowned as one of the most breathtaking spots on Earth. With temperatures dipping slightly above zero at night and frequent rainfall (averaging at least three hundred days a year), the upcoming camping experience poses a challenge, especially with five out of seven us fellow travelers feeling unwell for the past couple of days. As we plan to spend the night in tents in a forest, I find solace in silently observing our group, although feeling mentally detached since Saturday afternoon. Despite this trip being a dream for many, it has turned into an irksome experience for me. I long to return home and eventually start afresh.

FROM TE-ANAU TO MILFORD SOUND

Our plan for today was to explore and capture the scenic views along the road as we traveled. However, similar to our experiences throughout our trip in New Zealand, the beautiful views were often repetitive and not particularly photogenic. We hoped that this place would prove different. Unlike the last couple of days, where most of our time was uneventful, our afternoon today includes a two-hour boat ride alongside the Milford Sound fjords, extending all the way to the Tasman Sea. Even if the views along the way are familiar, we anticipate that the boat trip will make up for it. We are keeping our fingers crossed for good weather conditions throughout.

The late morning and afternoon truly showcased the absolute highlights of our New Zealand visit, which I wholeheartedly recommend to anyone visiting the country. As we ventured deeper into Milford Sound, we made several stops to take photos. The lighting conditions worked in our favor, resulting in some remarkably fine pictures. However, the scenic viewpoints we visited before reaching the Mirror Lakes were, as anticipated, not very remarkable. They provided more of a chance to stretch our legs and take in the fresh air. Unfortunately, these earlier stops meant we had less time to explore closer to Milford Sound, where the views were genuinely outstanding.

The Mirror Lakes are relatively small and surrounded by dense bushes, making it impossible to capture clean photos. Nonetheless, the lakes are captivating and definitely worth a stop, given the short approach time of just several minutes from the roadside car park. We visited twice, once on our way to Milford Sound and the other as we departed the area early the next morning. Nearly all the photos taken at the Mirror Lakes turned out well without needing much enhancement.

Mirror Lakes in the early afternoon, photographed on our approach to the Milford Sound.

The bushes around the Mirror Lakes. Through them you can the clear water and an orange spot. The latter is the morning sun hitting the mountain tops reflected in the lake water. The view is outstanding. But the photos do not reflect what you see with the naked eye. Some weeks after our trip, one or another fellow published the morning photos on Facebook. If you did not know what this was, and you did not see the view with your own eyes, you would not be thrilled by any of those photographs. Maybe the shots would be different if we planned the photo session better, had been well-rested, and, most of all, took the time. We did not …

DECISIONS, DECISIONS …

Halfway between Te-Anau, where we had spent the night, and the Milford Sound quay, we found our camping site. We decided to stop there and set up our tents to save time later in the evening.

While we were setting up, one of my companions confided in me, I don’t like it here. Not at all. I responded, Perhaps we should have booked a hotel in Te-Anau and avoided this. With five of us feeling unwell and the forecast showing temperatures around zero tonight, the night ahead will be quite a challenge.

The camping site was rather uninviting. Even without much camping experience, I would describe it as below par. The issue wasn’t so much the facilities, but rather its location. For an area surrounded by mountains, the site was too low and had many spots that could easily become streams during rainy conditions.

We proceeded to set up our tents and inflate mattresses. Having never spent a night in a tent before, I was unsure of what to expect. At first glance, the tents seemed too small for two adults. The night revealed that they had more flaws besides this. Given my professional background in logistics and decision-making, I began to consider seeking alternative accommodation back in Te-Anau as soon as we had phone access while en route to Milford Sound. As we left the city, I had noticed hotels and motels with vacancies. It would mean less than a two-hour journey back after our boat ride, and since we had shopped in the morning, we had enough supplies for a barbecue by Lake Te-Anau. However, based on past experiences, I knew that none of my companions would be interested in cooperating to make the rest of our trip more comfortable. If only we had collaborated on that day and night…

We hit the road again around 1:30 pm, with a boat reservation at 4 pm. This left us with two and a half hours for a road trip that was supposed to take a bit longer than an hour. It wasn’t enough time for longer stops at viewpoints, yet it was too much time to go straight ahead. Despite this, we did stop for a quick photo session at a huge waterfall, but we skipped any other viewpoints until we reached Milford Sound. In hindsight, this was a mistake.

The viewpoint at the waterfall was crowded with tourists, and we only saw the whole waterfall from the roadside without taking the time to approach it up close. It would have only taken maybe a quarter of an hour there and back, but we didn’t realize how magnificent the waterfall was until we were back home, processing photos and comparing its size with that of the people standing below. In fact, it turned out to be the most exhilarating waterfall we saw during our entire trip to New Zealand, and we could have stopped there for as long as we wanted. The parking area was spacious, and despite the crowd, it didn’t feel overcrowded, allowing for clean photos. If only we had had enough time. Instead, we found ourselves rushing from one roadside to the other, capturing as many photos of the surrounding mountains as possible, simply to seize the opportunity.

We arrived at the Milford Sound quay too early. We stopped at the parking lot to take a photo through a small opening in the bushes. With plenty of time to spare, we found ourselves waiting in the waiting hall for over half an hour. I decided to step outside the building and stroll alongside the dam surrounding the boat quay. The views were simply breathtaking. However, with the sun high in the sky, only a few shots could capture the true beauty of what I was seeing. It’s definitely one of those places where you should just pause and take in the beauty with your own eyes. I couldn’t help but notice the helicopters flying in and out, feeling envious of the people on board.

At the Milford Sound quay. It is the view you enjoy when you start the fjord trip. The sunlight was strong. Taking cover beyond a boat was the only way to avoid overexposure in the photo. 

A SHOWER INSIDE A RAINBOW

A boat ride alongside the Milford Sound fjords is an experience I can wholeheartedly recommend to everyone. One standout moment was when a herd of dolphins joined us, almost as if straight out of a movie. Five or six, maybe even more, of these gorgeous creatures leaped through the water alongside our ship for a mile or more. Capturing them on camera proved to be quite the challenge.

This guided boat trip offered more than just a simple ride. Whenever there was something noteworthy to see along the coastline, our guide would provide explanations through a loudspeaker that could be heard over the hum of the waters, even from the stern of the boat. The boat driver would frequently approach the coastline and pause, allowing us to capture close-up photos of the stunning sights.

Milford Sound seals resting on a warm rock.

During the journey, we encountered numerous waterfalls. With the naked eye, we could see rainbows forming around the cascading waters. The boat driver steered towards them and allowed those interested to shower under the rainbow. It was truly a remarkable experience, and the enjoyment was unparalleled.

A shower under a rainbow in waterfall waters. 

I took numerous photos. However, only a few of them turned out well. Milford Sound is stunning, but like many other beautiful spots in New Zealand, it is not photogenic at all, unless you are fortunate enough to have the right sunlight conditions. I had to do a lot of editing to make them look as they do. Nevertheless, the result absolutely does not reflect the experience of being inside a fjord with mountain walls almost one kilometer high.

Cook, the sailors who cartographed precisely New Zealand coastline, missed it several times. You can see one mountain formation beyond another. The photo even got two-dimensional. In fact, between the first mountain and the second one, there is one of the Milford Sound narrow straits. The sailors of the Cook expedition missed it several times as they were looking for an easy entry 15 km deep into the Southern Island approaching New Zealand from the West.

The approach to Milford Sound from the Tasman Sea.

HOW NOT TO SPEND A NIGHT

As we returned from the Milford Sound boat trip to our campsite, it was already dusk. We were in the mountains, where the sun sets earlier than in open land. The campsite did not look inviting, but it had become busier since we left several hours ago. Two of my female companions, both feeling unwell, approached me: Let’s go take a hot shower. It’s cold, and it will be even colder at night. A hot shower will do us good. The campsite is getting crowded, and there will soon be a long queue for the shower cabins. I quickly opened my luggage, searching for all the warm clothing I had with me. Recalling our glacier walk several days earlier, I retrieved some of the gear I had used in Northern Norway this winter. After the shower, I put them on. I didn’t need them on the glacier, but here, as it turned out later, they proved to be very useful.

When I returned to our tents, my companions had already set up the barbecue. Whether willingly or not, I ate the large beefsteak that had been left for me, sipping a bit of red wine for better digestion. It was already ten pm, too late for a lavish dinner. However, I had no choice. My companions had planned an early morning hike to see the sunrise from the top of a mountain, with no chance for breakfast or even a morning coffee. I tried to persuade them to abandon the morning hike, but they accused me of panicking. Yet, the events of the night and early morning had proven that I was not simply panicking. During the conversation at the table, the topic turned to The Revenant, a film featuring Leonardo DiCaprio. In the film, DiCaprio portrays a frontiersman on a fur trading expedition who fights for survival after being mauled by a bear and left for dead by members of his own hunting team. I thought about quoting Freud, but I refrained. However, someone else mentioned it out loud.

We looked up. With only a few artificial lights around us, the sky above offered a breathtaking view. It was the Southern Hemisphere, and the sky was unlike anything we could see at home. In the midst of the stars, a shining belt of the Milky Way was visible (or so it seemed to me). The sky’s appearance reminded me of the days I spent in Northern Africa during my childhood. At that time, we were living near the desert, with few villages around us. The nights were so dark that the stars were clearly visible.

The night was eerie. Despite my companions verbally expressing their indifference, I loathed it. Imagine five out of seven people afflicted with a virus, coughing incessantly, some with a fever and shivering, spending the night on a camper site in a deep mountain valley at around 1 degree Celsius, in tents too small to offer protection from the pervasive dampness. The tent was cramped, preventing me from stretching my legs. After what felt like two hours, I struggled to breathe and almost fainted upon stepping out. It took several minutes of deliberate breathing to regain my composure. I felt isolated in the silent, dark camping ground, with all power cut off for the night. Yet, the moon cast a reassuring glow over the horizon.

Deciding to head to the restrooms, approximately seventy to eighty meters away, without any light, I realized I needed a flashlight upon reaching the cabins.

I had to make a choice. Fortunately, I wasn’t shivering, thanks to the thermal clothing. Knowing I couldn’t go back to the tent, I opted for a night under the trees. The absence of dangerous animals in New Zealand assured me, but the damp ground offered no comfortable place to rest.

The person I was supposed to share the tent with was shorter and fared better inside. After leaving, she had the whole space to herself and slept relatively well. Eventually, I found myself in my sleeping bag, lying on a cold wooden bench in the open camping site kitchen. After checking with my flashlight for any possums, I closed the door and managed to sleep for an hour or two, losing track of time. When it was still dark, I heard voices and coughing. Two of my unwell companions came to the restrooms, then later decided to warm up in the kitchen around the gas stove, opting not to return to the tents. The rest of our group woke up at five.

In the end, we chose to leave the camp and the Milford Sound area, leaving behind most of our camping equipment purchased solely for this night. The loss of resources seemed futile, especially for a night in a place that, even in high summer, offers little comfort due to the weather and water conditions. Locations further north would be more suitable for camping. The subpar camping site at the roadside on lower ground did not afford glimpses of the beautiful nature, and shutting off the power until seven-thirty am only added to the discomfort. Only those in camper vans or the camp’s own shelters could truly enjoy a night in Milford Sound.

Returning from Milford Sound to Te Anau, we stopped twice to take more photos, including capturing the morning fog that enveloped us, requiring us to slow down to see ahead. We observed people camping in the open, visibly freezing and soaked.

The morning fog at Milford Sound at high Summer and good weather conditions. Staying in a tent recommendable only for those who really enjoy this kind of leisure. Camping in Milford Sound may pose a challenge for some.

Back home, I did some digging on the internet. It turns out that there are some trekking paths in the Milford Sound mountains that you can take for three or five days. It is not allowed to camp freely there. All tourists staying the night are obliged to use official shelters. The number of beds is limited. You must make reservations ahead to be allowed to enter. The living conditions are quite spartan, but in return, you get the authentic nature experience. Trekking in the mountains is only possible in the summer season. In the wintertime, some of the facilities, including bridge passages, are disassembled.

WRITTEN IN A TE-ANAU COFFEE SHOP. POST SCRIPTUM

February 6, 2018 (Wednesday). It’s not about comfort or leisure. It’s about the sheer thrill of it all. Or so it seems. Yesterday, everything went wrong due to poor planning, yet again. It was a display of sheer foolishness. And all of this took place in Milford Sound, hailed as one of the most breathtaking locations in the world. The positive experiences at the magnificent scenic spots were truly unique. However, the night turned out to be even worse than anticipated.

It’s been a rollercoaster ride – hot and cold, ups and downs. It’s the kind of experience that you’d remember…

Another delightful mochaccino for breakfast. The food is good, but I couldn’t tell you what I ordered. I just need to eat to regain my strength. I feel utterly exhausted and still unwell, coughing endlessly. I managed to sleep, perhaps two, maybe three hours, on a narrow bench in the camping site kitchen. Most of my companions are also unwell. Three of them seem to be in an even worse state than I am. Only one of them seems to be relishing every moment as if it’s the best trip of her life. It’s 10 am, and all I can think about is getting some rest. However, I have no idea when that will be possible. I’m not interested in today’s plans. After Milford Sound, I doubt there’s anything that would excite me enough. I just want this day to end, I want this trip to end… Yet, there are still two full days ahead of us.