The Museum of Islamic Art at the Pergamon Museum

The Pergamon Museum in Berlin is world-famous for its incredible collection of ancient artefacts, including the iconic Ishtar Gate, a breathtaking reconstruction of Babylon’s monumental entrance. However, on the upper floor we can visit the Museum of Islamic Art, which showcases over a millennium of Islamic artistic and cultural achievements. It contains a wide variety of artefacts, including intricately woven Persian carpets, ceramic tiles, manuscripts, and fine metalwork from various regions such as Iran, Turkey, and Egypt.

One of the highlights of the collection is the Aleppo Room, a remarkable example of 17th-century Syrian interior design. This beautifully preserved wooden panelling once furnished the reception hall of a wealthy Christian merchant’s home in Aleppo, then part of the Ottoman Empire. The room’s walls are adorned with vibrant floral motifs, geometric patterns, and inscriptions in Arabic, blending secular and religious imagery in a way that reflects the multicultural nature of life in Aleppo at the time. The panels were sold to a collector in 1912 and later donated to the Pergamon Museum, where they’ve been carefully displayed for over a century. You cannot however admire this room at close as it is hidden behind a glass.

Aleppo Rooom in Museum of Islamic Art at Pergamon Museum

While exploring the museum, my attention was particularly drawn to the collection of prayer niches, known as mihrabs. Several of these mihrabs are on display, each one intricately decorated with geometric designs, calligraphy, and floral motifs. A mihrab is a semicircular recess in the wall of a mosque that indicates the direction of prayer (qibla), which is the direction Muslims should face during prayer – towards Mecca. Mihrabs can be made from various materials, such as marble, ceramics, or wood, and their decorations often include geometric patterns, calligraphy featuring verses from the Qur’an, and plant motifs, characteristic of Islamic art. The mihrab serves both a practical and symbolic function – it is the central point of the prayer space in a mosque and helps worshippers unite in prayer towards the holy city of Islam.

Prayer niches in Museum of Islamic art at Pergamon Museum

The collection of the Museum of Islamic Art at Pergamon Museum was established at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, during a time when interest in Eastern art and culture was growing in Europe. During this period, German archaeologists and researchers conducted numerous expeditions to countries in the Middle East, such as Syria, Egypt, Iran, Turkey, and Iraq. From these expeditions, many Islamic art pieces, including ceramics, textiles, metalwork, and manuscripts, were brought to Berlin.

The Museum of Islamic Art at the Pergamon Museum

Treasures of the Past: The Historic Museum of Tykocin

While traveling across Europe, it is common to frequent prominent museums that draw considerable tourist attention. A wealth of collections – albeit less renowned – can be found in small local museums highlighting a range of historical artifacts. Not long ago, I had the opportunity to explore a few local historical museums in northeastern Poland, one of which in Tykocin.

Tykocin, first mentioned in the 11th century, officially gained its town rights in 1425 under the rule of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Its elevation to an official town brought about increased economic development, particularly due to its position on trade routes connecting Lithuania, Poland, and Prussia. Its transformation into a multicultural hub began in 1522 when Olbracht Gasztołd, the town’s owner and a Lithuanian nobleman, invited Jewish families to settle there. He granted them permission to build a synagogue and establish a cemetery, which laid the foundation for the Jewish presence in the town. Permission for Jewish settlement was necessary due to their distinct religious identity, which set them apart from the Christian majority. Jews often worked in professions like trade and moneylending, which were either restricted or less common among Christians. Legal limitations prevented Jews from owning land or holding public office, requiring them to seek special privileges to live and work in a town. These privileges, granted by rulers, regulated their rights and obligations, offering protection while also reinforcing their separate status within society. By the mid-16th century, Tykocin boasted one of the largest Jewish populations in Poland, with Jewish merchants and artisans playing a vital role in the town’s economic and cultural development.

During the era of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Tykocin took on an even greater significance. King Sigismund Augustus, the last ruler of the Jagiellonian dynasty, made it a royal residence and housed part of the Crown Treasury in the town’s castle. This royal connection further solidified Tykocin’s place in the history of the region. In 1661, King John II Casimir Vasa granted Tykocin and its lands to Stefan Mikołaj Branicki, marking the beginning of the Branicki family’s influence in the region. The Branickis were one of Poland’s most influential magnate families. Although they are better known for his lavish palace in Białystok, the Branicki family was also overseeing the reconstruction of Tykocin Castle in the 18th century as well as the construction of the Baroque Church of the Holy Trinity.

Though the Jewish population was tragically decimated during World War II, Tykocin continues to honor its multicultural roots. One of the most significant landmarks in Tykocin is the old synagogue built in 1642. It is one of the best-preserved synagogues in Poland today. The synagogue now houses a small museum dedicated to Jewish culture and traditions. Sightseein the synagogue was particularly meaningful to me as it was my first encounter with the Jewish religion. Around the corner, at the back door of the former Talmudic House neighbouring the synagogue you can also enjoy a traditional Jewish restaurant.

Tykocin Castle has recently been restored and now functions as a hotel. While the rooms lack a distinctly historical feel, the castle’s steep staircases and old corridors have been carefully preserved, adding to its authentic charm. The dining room, which serves as a restaurant open to the public, maintains a historical atmosphere allowing visitors to experience a bit of the past. In addition to the hotel, the castle also houses a small museum, offering guests a glimpse into its rich history.

In the old Talmudic House, you’ll find a local museum that explores the history of this region of Poland. The museum’s interior was modernized to create a space that aligns with the exhibition’s narrative. The permanent exhibition presents the history of Tykocin from the late Middle Ages to the second half of the 20th century, organized both chronologically and thematically.

While I didn’t capture the entire exhibition, I focused on the lifestyle of the local nobility. The centerpiece of this exhibit is a noble parlor reminiscent of Tykocin’s golden age when the Branicki family owned the town. This room features a recreated old Polish salon, complete with antique furniture and sculptures dressed in traditional attire, representing a noble couple from the Branicki family in the 18th century. The exhibition also includes tableware, tapestries, noble clothing, and knightly and military armor, offering a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of the Polish aristocracy.

The figures of the noble couple we can see in the museum are Jan Klemens Branicki (1689–1771) and his wife Izabela Poniatowska Branicka (1730–1808), who both belonged to the most prominent figures of the Polish aristocracy in the 18th century.

Jan Klemens Branicki, a wealthy magnate, Grand Crown Hetman, and owner of vast estates, including the Branicki Palace in Białystok, played a crucial role in the political life of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Known for his lavish lifestyle and political ambitions, Branicki was one of the most powerful men of his time, even aspiring to the Polish throne. His influence extended beyond politics, as he was a patron of the arts and architecture, significantly shaping the cultural landscape of the region. His wife, Izabela Poniatowska Branicka, the sister of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was equally influential. With her close connections to the royal court, she wielded considerable political influence and was active in charity and cultural patronage. Together, the Branickis shaped the social and cultural life of the Polish nobility, and their contributions to the development of art, architecture, and society left a lasting legacy, still visible today in landmarks such as the Branicki Palace in Białystok.

Treasures of the Past: The Historic Museum of Tykocin

William III in Delftware. Seen in the Rijksmuseum

William III Delftware bust in Rijksmuseum | 威廉三世代尔夫特陶瓷半身像在国立博物馆

The Netherlands is famous for its ceramics, so it’s no surprise that a visit to the Rijksmuseum leads to a room filled with beautiful examples of this art form, many of which hold significant historical value. Among the photos I took, one features a ceramic bust of a man, who turns out to be King-Stadtholder William III of Orange. When I visit museums, I seldom read all the labels next to the objects. Taking many photos and later researching them online allows me to explore the artefacts I saw more thoroughly. This way I get a stronger impression of the places I visited.

In the display glass case, William III of Orange is shown alongside that of his wife, Queen Mary II of England, Scotland, and Ireland, about whom I wrote a few weeks ago, showcasing another bust of her that is exhibited in the same room as the ceramics. The placement of hers there is no coincidence – Queen Mary II was known for her love of the Dutch ceramics – the tin-glazed earthenware known as Delftware. During her lifetime in the 17th century, Delft in the Netherlands was a renowned centre for the production of this type of ceramic, which became highly popular across Europe. Interestingly, the ceramic busts of the royal couple, although placed next to each other, were produced by two different Delftware manufacturers, as indicated by information from the Rijksmuseum.

William III Delftware bust in Rijksmuseum

William III Delftware bust in Rijksmuseum, portreys the Stadtholder of several Dutch provinces, who lived in the second half of the 17th century. He played a crucial role in defending the Netherlands against French invasions during the Franco-Dutch War. In 1677, William III married Mary Stuart, the daughter of James II of England, a union that would later have significant political implications. In 1688, William III was invited by English nobles to overthrow his Catholic father-in-law, James II, in an effort to ensure that England remained a Protestant country. His successful invasion led to the joint monarchy of William III and Mary II in England, marking the beginning of a constitutional monarchy where the powers of the crown were limited by Parliament.

William III Delftware bust in Rijksmuseum stands as a testament not only to the historical significance of the monarch but also to the rich tradition of Dutch ceramics. Delftware, the tin-glazed earthenware produced in Delft, gained widespread acclaim across Europe for its quality and artistic value. The bust is attributed to the renowned Delft pottery factory De Metaale Pot. De Metaale Pot was known for its high-quality ceramics and artistic achievements. The factory became particularly famous for its ability to produce large, sculptural earthenware pieces, a feat made possible by employing a skilled French modeller.

The production of porcelain, or more specifically tin-glazed earthenware known as Delftware, in the Netherlands began to flourish in the 17th century during the Dutch Golden Age. Initially, the Dutch East India Company imported Chinese porcelain on a large scale, which was highly popular in Europe. European artisans, particularly those in Delft, aimed to replicate its appearance. However, due to the lack of suitable raw materials and technology, European ceramicists had to rely on tin-glazing – a technique that, interestingly, originated in the Middle East and was introduced to Europe through Spain and Portugal several centuries earlier. When the supply of Chinese porcelain was interrupted due to internal issues in China, Dutch craftsmen saw an opportunity to produce similar items locally on a large scale. Delft became the main centre of ceramic production in the Netherlands.

Previously known for its beer production, Delft saw a shift to ceramics as the brewing industry declined. Craftsmen in Delft developed a method that allowed them to create wares that resembled Chinese porcelain but were actually made from clay coated with tin glaze, giving them their characteristic white colour. Unlike Chinese porcelain, which is made from a special fine clay (kaolin) and fired at very high temperatures to create a hard, translucent material, European faience (such as Delftware) is made from a coarser clay and is fired at lower temperatures. This results in a more porous material that is then covered with a tin glaze to achieve the desired white, opaque finish. Delftware became popular for its quality and aesthetics, as well as for the ability to decorate the items with blue patterns that imitated Chinese porcelain. The ceramic industry in Delft thrived, and at its peak in the 17th century, the city was home to about 30 ceramic factories.

Among the most important Delftware producers in the 17th century were De Metaale Pot, which, under the leadership of Lambertus van Eenhoorn, became one of the most prominent factories in Delft, known for its innovation and production of large ceramic sculptures, such as busts and vases. Another notable producer was De Grieksche A, which was known for producing high-quality ceramics and was a favourite supplier of Queen Mary II. De Grieksche A specialised in more elegant and artistic forms, which attracted wealthy clients. Lastly, De Porceleyne Fles, is one of the most famous Delftware producers and, remarkably, the only factory from the 17th century that has survived to this day and continues to produce Delftware.

Other Delftware artefacts on display in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

Delftware is still produced today, although on a smaller scale than in the 17th century. De Porceleyne Fles (now Royal Delft) remains active and continues to produce traditional Delftware using the same techniques that were employed during the golden age of Dutch ceramics. While Delftware is now produced in other parts of the world, often as tourist souvenirs, authentic Delftware from Delft is still highly valued for its artistic and historical significance.

William III in Delftware. Seen in the Rijksmuseum