Wilanów Palace. The Crown Jewel of the Warsaw’s Royal Route

Just a short distance from where I live lies one of the most exquisite Baroque palaces in Poland – the Wilanów Palace. Often called the Polish Versailles, it was the summer residence of King John III Sobieski and his beloved Queen Marysieńka, built after Sobieski’s famous victory over the Ottoman Empire at the Battle of Vienna in 1683 as both a symbol of royal power and personal devotion. Today, Wilanów still enchants visitors with its splendid façade, sculpted gardens, and centuries of history that have survived wars, partitions, and political upheavals – making it one of the very few royal residences in Poland preserved in their original form.

Wilanów Palace was – for a brief yet memorable time – the summer residence of Polish monarchs. Commissioned by King John III Sobieski in the late 17th century, it served as both a private retreat with his wife Queen Marysieńka and a lasting symbol of his prestige after the victory at the Battle of Vienna in 1683. While Poland’s capital had shifted several times over the centuries – from Gniezno to Kraków – Warsaw became the capital in 1596 under King Sigismund III Vasa, making Wilanów one of the first great royal residences to rise near the new seat of power.

The Royal Route was more than just a road – it was a stage for royal ceremonies, parades, and processions. Kings rode along it on their way to coronations, foreign envoys were welcomed here with pomp, and great celebrations unfolded in the streets. Walking or riding this route today means literally tracing the path of Poland’s monarchs.

What makes the journey even more fascinating is the blend of eras you encounter along the way. Baroque palaces stand next to neoclassical façades, elegant 19th-century townhouses neighbour socialist-era apartment blocks, and modern cafés fill the ground floors of centuries-old residences. The Royal Route is not just a line connecting monuments – it is a living timeline of Warsaw’s history.

Starting at Castle Square, you’ll encounter the Royal Castle and Sigismund’s Column – enduring symbols of Warsaw’s royal heritage. The column, erected in 1644, is not only the oldest secular monument in the city but also a reminder of the king who moved Poland’s capital from Kraków to Warsaw. While the Royal Castle may appear modest when seen from the Old Town itself – as part of it stands on a steep escarpment – its full grandeur reveals itself when viewed from the Vistula River’s bank below. Continuing along Krakowskie Przedmieście Street, your first stop might be St. Anne’s Church, with its elegant neoclassical façade and a tower that offers one of the best panoramic views of Warsaw.

Along Krakowskie Przedmieście, you’ll pass the Presidential Palace – a graceful neoclassical residence that has witnessed many historic events, including the signing of the Constitution of May 3, 1791, Europe’s first modern constitution. Nearby stands the legendary Hotel Bristol, a 19th-century icon that hosted statesmen, artists, and celebrities for over a century. Just across the street lies the historic campus of the University of Warsaw, with the elegant Kazimierz Palace at its heart. As you continue, you’ll meet the Monument of Nicolaus Copernicus, one of Poland’s most famous sons, placed before the Polish Academy of Sciences – a fitting location for the astronomer who stopped the Sun and moved the Earth.

Moving into Nowy Świat Street, you step into one of Warsaw’s most vibrant avenues – lined with cafés, restaurants, and boutiques, it has been a favorite promenade for locals since the 19th century. A little further, you’ll encounter the city’s most unexpected landmark: an artificial palm tree standing in the middle of the busy de Gaulle Roundabout. Originally installed in 2002 as an art project by Joanna Rajkowska, it was meant to be temporary, yet quickly became a beloved and quirky symbol of modern Warsaw. Just behind it rises the imposing former Communist Party headquarters, a stark reminder of Poland’s Cold War past, contrasting sharply with the lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere of Nowy Świat.

At Three Crosses Square, the St. Alexander’s Church stands at the heart of the square, marking the entrance to Warsaw’s diplomatic and government district. From here, Ujazdowskie Avenue stretches out as a leafy, elegant promenade, lined with embassies, ministries, and 19th-century townhouses, as well as some of Warsaw’s oldest parks. Soon you arrive at Ujazdów Castle, the city’s first summer royal residence after Warsaw became the capital in 1596, today housing the Centre for Contemporary Art. Just beyond lies the jewel of the Royal Route – the Łazienki Park with its romantic Palace on the Isle. Surrounded by lakes, gardens, and wandering peacocks, this former royal retreat commissioned by King Stanisław August Poniatowski in the 18th century is now one of Warsaw’s most beloved public spaces.

Adjacent to Łazienki Park is the Botanical Garden, home to an impressive collection of plant species and seasonal flower displays. Just a short walk away stands the iconic Frédéric Chopin Monument, one of Warsaw’s most cherished landmarks. Every Sunday in summer, crowds gather beneath its sweeping bronze form to enjoy free open-air piano concerts, a tradition dating back to 1959 that keeps Chopin’s music alive in the very city where he was born.

Just across the street stands the Prime Minister’s Office, a vast guarded complex that has been the seat of government since the interwar years. The journey then passes the Belweder Palace, a graceful neoclassical residence nestled among trees, once used by Polish presidents and even by Marshal Józef Piłsudski as his official home. Nearby, on Parkowa Street, lies the Prime Minister’s private residence, facing the imposing Soviet-era Russian Embassy – a striking reminder of Poland’s Cold War chapter. From here, the Royal Route gradually leaves the city’s governmental heart and enters residential neighborhoods, where socialist-era apartment blocks painted in bright pastels stand side by side with the modern developments of New Wilanów, before the road culminates at the historic jewel of the south – the Wilanów Palace.

The construction of the Wilanów Palace began in 1677, commissioned by King John III Sobieski as a private retreat away from the bustle of Warsaw – a residence where he could rest with his beloved Queen Marysieńka. More than a royal villa, it was also intended as a lasting symbol of his military triumphs, especially the celebrated Battle of Vienna in 1683, where Sobieski’s victory against the Ottoman Empire secured him fame across Europe and earned him the title Savior of Christendom.

King John III Sobieski chose a design inspired by Baroque and Renaissance villas of Southern Europe. Though modest at first, the palace was gradually expanded with ornate wings and gardens adorned with sculptures, turning it into a true royal residence. After Sobieski’s death in 1696, the estate remained in his family until 1720, then passed through the hands of powerful magnate families – including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, and Potockis – each reshaping the interiors to match the fashions of their time. By the late 18th century, under Stanisław Kostka Potocki, Wilanów became one of the first public museums in Poland, displaying an impressive collection of European, Oriental, and ancient art, and Potocki even created two nearby parks named after his grandchildren. During World War II, the palace was plundered by the Nazis, with many priceless artworks lost forever, yet thanks to meticulous post-war restoration much of its splendour was recovered – making Wilanów not only a monument of royal glory but also a symbol of Poland’s resilience.

Today, the Wilanów Palace attracts both tourists and locals with its ornate Baroque façade, lush gardens, and richly decorated interiors. The residence combines Baroque architecture with Italian Renaissance influences and the craftsmanship of Polish artists. Over the centuries, the gardens have evolved from a formal French layout into a more romantic English park, where avenues of trees lead to a lake connected by a stream to the Vistula River. Inside, the palace preserves its historic furnishings and serves as an art museum hosting a variety of temporary exhibitions, while outdoors it offers one of Warsaw’s most enchanting seasonal events – the Royal Garden of Light, which every winter transforms the grounds into a glowing spectacle. Whenever I visit, I bring my camera to capture the palace’s façade, sculptures, blooming flowers, or the ducks and swans gliding across the lake, sometimes mirrored perfectly in the still water. Entrance to the palace grounds and gardens costs about €2.50, making it one of the most affordable yet unforgettable royal experiences in Europe.

Walking the Royal Route to Wilanów is like stepping into a living history book, where every square, palace, and monument tells its own story. Whether you are drawn by the grandeur of architecture, the charm of leafy parks, or the echoes of Poland’s royal past, this journey offers a unique chance to see Warsaw in its most elegant and historic form. And as you stand before the golden façade of Wilanów Palace, you realize that the path leading there is just as captivating as the destination itself.

Wilanów Palace. The Crown Jewel of the Warsaw’s Royal Route

Treasures of the Past: The Historic Museum of Tykocin

While traveling across Europe, it is common to frequent prominent museums that draw considerable tourist attention. A wealth of collections – albeit less renowned – can be found in small local museums highlighting a range of historical artifacts. Not long ago, I had the opportunity to explore a few local historical museums in northeastern Poland, one of which in Tykocin.

Tykocin, first mentioned in the 11th century, officially gained its town rights in 1425 under the rule of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Its elevation to an official town brought about increased economic development, particularly due to its position on trade routes connecting Lithuania, Poland, and Prussia. Its transformation into a multicultural hub began in 1522 when Olbracht Gasztołd, the town’s owner and a Lithuanian nobleman, invited Jewish families to settle there. He granted them permission to build a synagogue and establish a cemetery, which laid the foundation for the Jewish presence in the town. Permission for Jewish settlement was necessary due to their distinct religious identity, which set them apart from the Christian majority. Jews often worked in professions like trade and moneylending, which were either restricted or less common among Christians. Legal limitations prevented Jews from owning land or holding public office, requiring them to seek special privileges to live and work in a town. These privileges, granted by rulers, regulated their rights and obligations, offering protection while also reinforcing their separate status within society. By the mid-16th century, Tykocin boasted one of the largest Jewish populations in Poland, with Jewish merchants and artisans playing a vital role in the town’s economic and cultural development.

During the era of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Tykocin took on an even greater significance. King Sigismund Augustus, the last ruler of the Jagiellonian dynasty, made it a royal residence and housed part of the Crown Treasury in the town’s castle. This royal connection further solidified Tykocin’s place in the history of the region. In 1661, King John II Casimir Vasa granted Tykocin and its lands to Stefan Mikołaj Branicki, marking the beginning of the Branicki family’s influence in the region. The Branickis were one of Poland’s most influential magnate families. Although they are better known for his lavish palace in Białystok, the Branicki family was also overseeing the reconstruction of Tykocin Castle in the 18th century as well as the construction of the Baroque Church of the Holy Trinity.

Though the Jewish population was tragically decimated during World War II, Tykocin continues to honor its multicultural roots. One of the most significant landmarks in Tykocin is the old synagogue built in 1642. It is one of the best-preserved synagogues in Poland today. The synagogue now houses a small museum dedicated to Jewish culture and traditions. Sightseein the synagogue was particularly meaningful to me as it was my first encounter with the Jewish religion. Around the corner, at the back door of the former Talmudic House neighbouring the synagogue you can also enjoy a traditional Jewish restaurant.

Tykocin Castle has recently been restored and now functions as a hotel. While the rooms lack a distinctly historical feel, the castle’s steep staircases and old corridors have been carefully preserved, adding to its authentic charm. The dining room, which serves as a restaurant open to the public, maintains a historical atmosphere allowing visitors to experience a bit of the past. In addition to the hotel, the castle also houses a small museum, offering guests a glimpse into its rich history.

In the old Talmudic House, you’ll find a local museum that explores the history of this region of Poland. The museum’s interior was modernized to create a space that aligns with the exhibition’s narrative. The permanent exhibition presents the history of Tykocin from the late Middle Ages to the second half of the 20th century, organized both chronologically and thematically.

While I didn’t capture the entire exhibition, I focused on the lifestyle of the local nobility. The centerpiece of this exhibit is a noble parlor reminiscent of Tykocin’s golden age when the Branicki family owned the town. This room features a recreated old Polish salon, complete with antique furniture and sculptures dressed in traditional attire, representing a noble couple from the Branicki family in the 18th century. The exhibition also includes tableware, tapestries, noble clothing, and knightly and military armor, offering a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of the Polish aristocracy.

The figures of the noble couple we can see in the museum are Jan Klemens Branicki (1689–1771) and his wife Izabela Poniatowska Branicka (1730–1808), who both belonged to the most prominent figures of the Polish aristocracy in the 18th century.

Jan Klemens Branicki, a wealthy magnate, Grand Crown Hetman, and owner of vast estates, including the Branicki Palace in Białystok, played a crucial role in the political life of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Known for his lavish lifestyle and political ambitions, Branicki was one of the most powerful men of his time, even aspiring to the Polish throne. His influence extended beyond politics, as he was a patron of the arts and architecture, significantly shaping the cultural landscape of the region. His wife, Izabela Poniatowska Branicka, the sister of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was equally influential. With her close connections to the royal court, she wielded considerable political influence and was active in charity and cultural patronage. Together, the Branickis shaped the social and cultural life of the Polish nobility, and their contributions to the development of art, architecture, and society left a lasting legacy, still visible today in landmarks such as the Branicki Palace in Białystok.

Treasures of the Past: The Historic Museum of Tykocin

Solyanka. A Perfect Dish for the Morning After

Two years ago, we went on a business trip to Riga. We arrived in the afternoon, the day before our official meetings. Riga offers a wide array of restaurants, but my colleagues were meticulous in researching recommendations online. When we finally settled into a restaurant and began reading the menu, one of our companions rubbed his hands together in anticipation and exclaimed, Solyanka! Curious, I asked, What’s that? You don’t know? he replied. You must try it. It’s absolutely delicious, though quite salty. Intrigued, I took his advice and ordered it.

I must admit, the tradition of Solyanka was unfamiliar to me, likely due to my family’s culinary preferences, even though it seems to be considered a national dish in my country. I enjoyed it immensely. A year later, I had it again in a restaurant in Tallinn. On both occasions, I didn’t pay much attention to the ingredients. It wasn’t until earlier this year, while I was preparing traditional Polish cucumber soup, that I happened to watch a popular cooking show where the host was making Solyanka. That’s when I realized that to make Solyanka, I would need to add more sour brine from the cucumbers, along with some tomato paste and sausage. Luckily, I had all the ingredients in my fridge, so I decided to make Solyanka instead of cucumber soup. The host of the cooking show said, solyanka was the perfect cure for the morning after, to cope with a hangover after a party. On second thought, I agree.

Solyanka is a traditional Eastern European soup known for its rich, tangy flavour, typically made with meat, fish, or mushrooms. It’s popular in several countries, each with its variations. In Russia, solyanka includes a mix of meats (beef, pork, or sausage), fermented cucumbers, olives, capers, onions, tomato paste, and is often served with lemon and sour cream. Ukrainian solyanka is similar but may include additional vegetables like carrots and potatoes, giving it a milder, more balanced flavour. Belarusian solyanka focuses on smoked meats, providing a rich, smoky taste. In East Germany, solyanka, introduced after World War II, is now traditional. It usually features sausages, fermented cucumbers, onions, tomato paste, and bell peppers, often with a thicker, stew-like consistency and a milder flavour. Latvian Solyanka also incorporates potatoes and local spices, while Lithuanian solyanka often uses local sausages, adding a deeper, smokier flavour. Polish solyanka is similar but might include smoked fish, giving it a unique twist. In Kazakhstan, solyanka is spicier, reflecting local tastes. Overall, while the basic concept of Solyanka remains consistent, each country adds its regional touch, making this soup a versatile and cherished dish across Eastern Europe.

Before I explain how to make solyanka (using the recipe I followed for my very first homemade version), I should clarify the difference between fermented cucumbers and pickled cucumbers. For solyanka, you need to use fermented cucumbers along with the brine they were fermented in. Fermented cucumbers, which are naturally fermented in a salt brine, have a sharp, tangy flavour that adds an essential sour note to solyanka. This tanginess is crucial, as it balances the richness of the meats and other hearty ingredients in the soup. In contrast, pickled cucumbers, preserved in a vinegar-based solution, tend to be sweeter and milder. While they are delightful in many dishes, they are not suitable for solyanka, as they lack the bold sourness needed for this dish. To create a truly authentic solyanka, always opt for fermented cucumbers, ensuring your soup reflects the true spirit of Eastern European cuisine.

To make traditional fermented cucumbers, start by preparing a brine by dissolving one tablespoon of salt in one liter (4 cups) of water. You’ll need about one kilogram of small, firm cucumbers, which should be washed thoroughly. In a large, clean glass jar or ceramic crock, place a layer of fresh dill, about one bunch, along with 4-6 cloves of garlic (slightly crushed), a teaspoon of whole black peppercorns, and 2-3 bay leaves at the bottom. Arrange the cucumbers upright in the jar, packing them tightly, and add more dill, garlic, and, optionally, a few pieces of horseradish root as you fill the jar. Once the jar is full, pour the brine over the cucumbers, ensuring they are completely submerged. If needed, place a weight on top of the cucumbers to keep them below the brine. Cover the jar loosely with a cloth or lid, and leave it at room temperature for 3-7 days, depending on how sour you want the cucumbers to be. During fermentation, the cucumbers will develop a sharp, tangy flavor. Taste them after a few days to see if they’ve reached your preferred level of sourness. Once you’re satisfied, transfer the jar to the refrigerator to slow down the fermentation process. The fermented cucumbers can be stored in the fridge for several weeks, maintaining their crunchy texture and vibrant taste. Regularly check the surface of the brine and skim off any foam or scum that forms during fermentation.

To prepare a hearty Solyanka with fermented cucumbers, sausage, and potatoes, start by making a robust stock. Begin with about 1.5 liters of beef or chicken broth, simmered from bones with vegetables such as carrots, celery, and onions, to create a rich, flavorful base. This stock should be well-seasoned with salt and pepper and can be prepared in advance or made fresh on the day. In Poland, many homemakers often prepare larger quantities of broth so that they can use the stock in the following days to make other soups.

Heat a large pot over medium heat and add a tablespoon of butter or oil. Finely chop one large onion and sauté it until golden brown. Add two cloves of minced garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant. Next, slice 200–300 grams of smoked sausage and add it to the pot. Fry the sausage until it begins to brown.

Meanwhile, peel and dice two medium-sized potatoes into bite-sized pieces. Add the potatoes to the pot, stirring them with the sausage and onions. To help the potatoes cook more evenly in the soup, you can briefly soak them in boiling water, then drain before adding.

Pour in your prepared broth, bringing everything to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat and let the soup simmer until the potatoes are tender (about 15 minutes). While the soup simmers, take four fermented cucumbers (about 200 grams) and dice them. Add the cucumbers to the pot along with two tablespoons of tomato paste. Stir well to combine. Pour in about 100 ml of cucumber brine to enhance the flavour. Let the soup simmer for another 10 minutes. For seasoning, add a teaspoon of smoked paprika, half a teaspoon of ground cumin, and a bay leaf. Taste and adjust with salt, pepper, or more brine if needed. Once done, remove the bay leaf and serve.

Ladle into bowls and top with a dollop of sour cream or yoghurt and a few lemon slices. Fresh dill or parsley makes a perfect garnish.

You may also like the recipes for: French Onion Soup, German Potato and Sausage Eintopf, Lithuanian Cold Beet Soup, French Beef Bourguignon, or New Zealand Chowder.

Solyanka. A Perfect Dish for the Morning After