NEW ZEALAND TRIP DIARIES. PART SIX
EXHAUSTED, BORED AND ANGRY
The night in Milford Sound was a nuisance. Several of us fell ill on our New Zealand trip and were unable to recover. The night only worsened our condition. Most of us were severely sleep deprived. Our original morning plan, thankfully abandoned, was to wake up between 5 and 6 am, trek up a mountain in the dark for about an hour, and capture the sunrise. Later in the day, as per our travel itinerary, the only extended stop was supposed to be at Slope Point, the southernmost point of the South Island. To reach there, we needed to detour from our main route for an hour. Our motel was further north, in Hampden on the Pacific coast. Covering the distance from the campsite where we spent the night to Hampden, including stops should have been about 11-12 hours.
Day 11 plan of our New Zealand trip. We woke up on a camping site around 20-25 minutes’ drive from Mirror Lakes. Adding up the route statistics by Google, we had around eight hours of non-stop sitting in the van ahead of us.
If we had followed our original travel plan, we would have completed our early morning mountain sunrise expedition by around 9 or 10 am. After allocating an hour for breakfast in Te-Anau and driving non-stop to Hampden, we would have arrived at our destination by 6 pm. Taking into account necessary breaks, including a lunch break, our arrival time would likely have been closer to 8 pm. Assuming just an hour to capture images of the well-known tree formations at the Slope Point, we would have reached Hampden at approximately 9 pm. However, as the plan also included photographing the sunset at Koekohe Beach, renowned for its Moeraki Boulders, this would have been unfeasible, as the sun sets before 9 pm.
Thankfully around 5 am, a decision was made to forgo the sunrise expedition in the mountains. Instead, we swiftly packed and set out on our journey. We made a few stops to capture the beauty of the morning sun. Following the strenuous camping night in Milford Sound, and feeling unwell after spending several days in the van, I was apathetic towards any plans for the day ahead. As the morning progressed, I had a premonition that it would be another wasted day. In hindsight, it indeed turned out to be another very long and unproductive day on our New Zealand trip.
Before reaching Slope Point, our male companions expressed a desire to operate a drone. Their intention was to capture aerial footage of the lush hills. Initially, this activity was planned for Milford Sound. However, it’s necessary to secure a permit for drone flights in the Milford Sound and Te-Anau area. While nearing Milford Sound, we observed two individuals briefly flying a drone. Unexpectedly, park authorities approached them, inquiring about their permit. Obtaining the license was a straightforward process, but it required arranging it in Te-Anau city. Once again, our lack of preparation resulted in disappointment. To avoid potential fines in the Milford Sound area, we chose to store the drone in the trunk. As we departed from the Te-Anau area on our journey to Slope Point, it was drizzling. The weather was unfavorable for starting the drone and capturing footage of the verdant hills. Nevertheless, our companions were determined to proceed. While they indulged in this pursuit, the rest of us patiently waited in the van, for approximately half an hour, or maybe longer. To be honest, I lost track of time. By that point, the morale of our travel group had plummeted to such an extent that no one felt inclined to engage in conversation.
Finally, we reached Slope Point, the lowest point of New Zealand’s South Island, known for its unique twisted tree formations. However, upon arrival, it became evident that we were talking about one or two tree formations, repeatedly captured in photos. Despite the cloudy weather making it unsuitable for photography, we decided to disembark for thirty minutes, capture some pictures, then continue our journey. Initially, I chose to remain in the van, unimpressed by the inaccessible fenced field where the twisted trees stood.
Nevertheless, two of our travel companions, who had struggled to sleep in Milford Sound, expressed a desire to stroll along the coastline for a breath of fresh air and respite from the perpetual van travel. Given the circumstances, their need was understandable. Reluctantly, I ventured out to photograph the renowned tree formations before joining my companions by the coastline, where capturing images of sheep and cows became the primary attraction for the next hour. What initially seemed like an appealing location for photography turned out to be rather lackluster, with our only justification being the fact that we were at the southernmost point of New Zealand’s South Island. Ultimately, it resulted in a significant loss of time, especially considering the detour required to reach the destination. We departed Slope Point around 2 pm.
The famous trees with branches twisted by the wind at the Slope Point. That what you see on the photo is one of two formations that you can photograph.
Out of pure boredom, we photographed sheep.
… and the coastline that could be located anywhere … Although after reconsideration, the photo above turned out to be one of my favorites from the New Zealand trip.
We once again set out on the road, making our customary stop at a scenic point to admire a waterfall. The journey to the waterfall alone took us more than twenty minutes in one direction, consuming around an hour and a half in total. Without a second thought, I captured a few photographs of the fascinating formation, which turned out to be remarkably picturesque. The parking area was one of the few places with standard restroom facilities and running water. Reflecting on that day, it became clear that it would be the only place I would choose to stop at again if I ever found myself in New Zealand in the future.
Feeling famished and parched, we realized that it was already well past the usual lunch hour. Our sole sustenance for the day had been breakfast back in Te-Anau. However, we found ourselves in a remote location, and time was ticking away. Our route led us through Dunedin, a prominent city in New Zealand with roots as a Scottish settlement. A place where we had hoped to indulge in local cuisine. We began scouring Trip Advisor for a suitable restaurant. Nevertheless, as the hours passed, we ultimately reached a decision to forgo entering the city. The prospect of a lengthy detour was too great a sacrifice.
Hungry, with no prospect of finding a restaurant alongside our route (restaurants close early in New Zealand), around 6 maybe 7 pm, we stopped at a road-side Subway. I do not think any Subway sandwich I ever ate tasted that good as that one on that day … But did I come to New Zealand to eat a sandwich at Subway? Definitely not. I have it at home. A close friend is even a franchisee in the network. At the end of the day, I was angry all inside me but kept silent. In less than forty-eight hours, we would be flying home … Impossible. I was in New Zealand, and the only thing I could have thought of was coming back home? But that day I was feeling so.
MAYBE IT IS TIME TO STOP AND EASE
We checked in our motel in Hampden after 8 pm. I was exhausted after two or three hours of sleep in the night on a narrow bench in the camper site kitchen and fourteen hours on the road. Our van turned into a hospital on wheels. The jokes about past days got louder. Seemingly the bad weird things that happen on a journey are those we remember best …
Nevertheless, my companions remained undeterred. Once more, they ventured out in the evening, mere minutes after our arrival at the motel, to capture the famous stone formations at the beach during the sunset. I, however, chose a different path. It was time for me to put my foot down. I took my medication, drank plenty of water, and went to sleep. I didn’t even notice when they returned. Only in the early hours, before 6 am, did I hear them leave once more to photograph the same beach and stone formations at sunrise. Later that day, one of the group members, who appeared to be managing our hectic schedule quite well, openly expressed her frustration at having to wake up again after a brief night. Looking back, I believe most of us were discontent with the schedule, but with no expressed desire to collaborate and amend our travel plans, the only recourse was to remain silent until the end of our journey.
Around 6 am, after eight hours of good-night sleep, I was then sitting alone in our motel room trying to calm whatever disease I had and prepare for the long flight home. Landing with a sinus infection is not a pleasant one. I went through it once. For ten minutes or so, I thought my eardrums would explode. This time it would be three landings within thirty hours. An ugly prospect. I drank my morning coffee, took all medicine that could have helped I had with me, and showered for some long minutes in warm water.
Did I lose anything by saying stop? The famous stone formations called the Moeraki Boulders are told to be one of the most famous attractions on the Southern Island. Maybe they are. But several weeks after coming home, I saw a 360° film made from our drone of the photo shooting in the morning. The formations are one of a kind. But in the movie, I lacked fun we had almost two weeks earlier on our first sunrise photo shooting in Auckland. No, I do not think I did lose anything …
Around 8 am, I was already feeling much better. From the day before, I remembered that the ocean coastline was quite close to our motel. Indeed, it was less than ten minutes until I reached the beach. The sun was still quite low over the horizon. I took some photos in the morning light. But later, I just sat down on a stone and listened to the ocean waters. I took off my shoes. After the first night for a couple of days with a good night’s sleep for more than eight hours and the medicine working, it was really soothing. Some other early raisers were on the beach. Still, it was maybe six, maybe seven people. We greeted one another while passing by.
Appreciating the morning hour at the Pacific Ocean.
As I returned from the beach, my companions had already finished eating breakfast. I joined them before we departed, leaving the remaining camping equipment that we did not leave in Milford Sound with our hosts. We had less than four hours of travel ahead of us. Just like the day before, I did not anticipate anything special about the day. I was simply relieved that this marked the end of our structured travel itinerary. We were scheduled to spend just under twenty-four hours in one hotel, which meant I could explore independently. Some of my companions had by the way already expressed disinterest in walking through city streets.
The morning made me realize that my travel preferences revolve around seeking diversity. I yearn for captivating destinations, natural landscapes, local cuisine, as well as the indigenous culture and historical heritage of the places I visit. Whenever I am unable to travel with my head, I find myself feeling unfulfilled. This sentiment has been particularly pronounced over the past few days, as our activities provided little insight into the culture and history of New Zealand. It evoked memories of my trip to Scotland three years ago, where my experiences were centered around visiting castles and urban centers. Despite this, I still harbored a sense of disappointment when we only caught a glimpse of the renowned Glen of Weeping from a distance, yearning for a more immersive Highland encounter. In contrast, my time in New Zealand has predominantly consisted of admiring its natural wonders, often through the window of a van. Regrettably, I overlooked the opportunity to witness the haka, a traditional Maori warrior dance that holds significant cultural value for New Zealanders. As I prepare to depart, the prospect of witnessing the haka live and delving into its historical significance filled me with eager anticipation.
So, we hit the road again. For a moment, we stopped at a gas station for a coffee break. The day was getting warmer and warmer. The sun was shining bright. Still, there was no heat around us. A mince man of average height at the desk asked us whether we enjoyed the sunny morning, after several rainy days. Yes, I did was my answer.
Finally, we arrived in Christchurch. Our hotel turned out to be another large apartment. My companions departed earlier to explore the city, while I required additional medication just to muster the strength to leave the accommodation without feeling the urge to return immediately. We arranged to reconvene at 7 pm for our final dinner in New Zealand.
CHRISTCHURCH. YES ON THE LAST DAY IN NEW ZEALAND IT IS TRAVELING AGAIN
I uploaded a map of Christchurch to my phone without conducting any additional research on the city’s attractions. My focus was primarily on locating the main buildings. For those unfamiliar with the city and seeking to explore its core, a it is advisable to look for the main cathedral. it is usually located in the midst of the historical town. During my journey to the cathedral, I engaged in some casual window shopping. While passing an office building, I noticed advertisements for an earthquake museum.
Certainly, the ground in Christchurch continues to tremble with unsettling frequency. Upon entering a building, I inquired with the receptionists about the museum. You may visit the museum, but we will be closing in about one hour, they informed me. Coming from a country unaffected by earthquakes, my interest in visiting the museum extended beyond gaining knowledge about this natural phenomenon. It was also an opportunity to understand the intricacies of rescue management and logistics in the aftermath. This visit equipped me with a deeper understanding of what I would encounter as I explored the city center of Christchurch. The city is still in the process of recovery following the major earthquakes of 2010 and 2011. Even the aftershocks of lesser magnitude serve as stark reminders of the city’s enduring vulnerability.
The city center of Christchurch resembles a massive construction site. The iconic city Cathedral, constructed in XIX century Gothic-style, and several other historic buildings are yet to undergo reconstruction. Various funding requirements had to be addressed. As of the writing of this text (end of June 2018), the authorities have finally made a decision to commence the reconstruction efforts.
The Christchurch cathedral. Awaiting reconstruction after the 2010/2011 earthquakes.
Yet another of many construction sites in the city center.
To explore the city center, I opted to board a historic tram that offered a sightseeing tour of the old parts of the city. Tickets were available for a day, allowing passengers to alight and re-board as many times as desired. The tram journey proceeded at a leisurely pace, providing ample time for the tram driver to narrate the sights. Notable mentions included a local gentlemen house now managed by a lady, as well as a college resembling the architectural style of Eaton and Hogwarts in England. Indeed, the city of Christchurch derived its name from one of the constituent colleges in England – a college known for its prominence within the University of Oxford. The tram route traversed the college area, encompassing traditional buildings and a grand hall awaiting restoration following the earthquake. Upon returning to the city center, I disembarked from the tram and retraced the route back to the college area. With the time past six o’clock, there remained only an hour to return to our motel. I strolled alongside the college and other historic buildings for half an hour, pausing momentarily to discreetly capture students adorned in their traditional uniforms. It was a shared moment of amusement with another individual, likely of Dutch origin, who also sought to capture the scene. Our brief exchange led to a shared laughter, cementing the memory of the experience.
The Christchurch college students on their way to the campus.
Short on time but content, I returned to join my companions. Most had already finished their late lunch and were not particularly interested in another meal. I, however, was hungry. Right across from our motel, there stood a steakhouse with live music. We agreed to dine there, and those who wished to leave early had the option to do so. The selection was exceptional. We spent a leisurely evening there (in New Zealand terms, we were among the final clients to leave around 10 pm), savoring delectable local beef and red wine. That night, I felt I was travelling again.
Delicious food and live music on the last evening of our New Zealand trip.
THE AFTERMATH
On last three days of our New Zealand trip, I would opt for a different approach. Firstly, instead of camping in Milford Sound, I would choose to spend two nights in Te-Anau, allowing for a full day dedicated to exploring Milford Sound, even if it means an active period of more than sixteen hours. A crucial activity on the agenda would be to experience the shipping route alongside the Milford Sound. Given a more generous budget, I would consider planning a helicopter flight over the fjords. Additionally, I would highly recommend spending two to three hours, or even more, exploring the mountains on foot to anyone. When faced with the choice between capturing sunrise or sunset photos, I would prioritize sunset photos. This is due to the unparalleled spectacle of the sky adorned with shimmering stars and planets shortly after sunset, a breathtaking sight in the almost uninhabited area. For night photography, it would be essential to have tripods. For enthusiasts of trekking and those with an extended stay in New Zealand, I would suggest embarking on one of the multiple-day trekking routes. One of the notable advantages of New Zealand, in contrast to many areas in Europe, is the absence of crowds.
From Te-Anau, I would follow a direct route to Dunedin in order to explore the city, delve into its Scottish settlement history, and savor a local specialty for lunch. This would offer a well-rounded contrast to the bustling day spent at Milford Sound. Due to the limited alternative routes in the New Zealand road system, adhering to the prescribed route is imperative. Nevertheless, I would unequivocally bypass the side road to the Slope Point as it offers nothing exceptional. I would spend the night in Hampden, strategically chosen to capture the renowned stones against the backdrop of the sunset or sunrise, while ensuring a restful night’s sleep to prepare for the following day’s extensive journey and the demanding schedule in Christchurch. In Christchurch, a guided tour of the area to gain insights into the settlers and the history of New Zealand is highly recommended. Additionally, ample time should be allocated to explore the vicinity of the local college buildings and to visit the earthquake museum. A visit to a steakhouse in the evening comes strongly recommended.
