Art Nouveau District in Riga. Where Architecture Turns into Sculpture

When I first visited Riga nearly two years ago, I was there on a business trip, staying at a hotel situated on the edge of the historic city. This location gave me the opportunity to step out with my camera both in the morning and after work in the afternoon. At that time, I could only explore the historic city, which had developed in the Hanseatic tradition. However, my colleagues told me that after a business dinner, a small group of them, along with a few locals, went out to see a district with “beautifully decorated buildings”. It was evening, and some of the buildings were illuminated, allowing them to see the decorations clearly. A year later, when I returned to Riga and had the chance to take a guided tour early in the morning, we went straight to that place.

The Art Nouveau district in Riga, located primarily in its central part, especially around Alberta Street and Elizabetes Street, is a captivating area renowned for its unique collection of early 20th-century architecture. It comprises dozens, perhaps even more, houses designed in a highly ornamental style, adorned with elaborate sculptures. These elements are not just additions but are seamlessly integrated into the buildings, enhancing both their functionality and aesthetic appeal. The facades are well-maintained, and you can see the detailed restoration work.

Art Nouveau emerged as a response to the classical style, particularly the Neoclassical style, which dominated academic art and architecture. Academic art refers to the artistic style and practices promoted and taught in European fine arts academies, especially from the 17th to the early 20th century. This style is characterized by a strong connection to classical traditions, a focus on the idealization of forms, technical mastery, and often a high level of formalism. In architecture, historical styles such as Neoclassicism and Neo-Gothic were predominant, and a restrained use of decoration based on ancient arts was closely linked to the principles and aesthetics taught in academies.

Art Nouveau broke away from these conventions, introducing greater freedom in forms and experimenting with new materials and techniques. The main goals of Art Nouveau were the revival of craftsmanship and the promotion of the idea that decorative arts, such as furniture design, glass, and ceramics, should be treated with the same respect as traditional fine arts like painting and sculpture. Art Nouveau aimed to create a new aesthetic that was both beautiful and functional, utilizing innovative forms and materials and integrating art into everyday life.

Below is a gallery of photos that I took in the Art Nouveau district in Riga.

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Art Nouveau District in Riga. Where Architecture Turns into Sculpture

Saint George slaying the dragon

One of the main buildings in historic Riga is the House of the Black Heads. It was originally built in the 14th century for the Brotherhood of Black Heads, a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners in Riga. The Brotherhood of Black Heads was named after Saint Maurice, a Christian martyr who was depicted as a black African in medieval art. This building has a very beautiful facade adorned with statues of various figures, among them Saint George slaying the dragon, whose feast we celebrate today.

Saint George slaying the dragon on the facade of the House of Black Heads in Riga.

Saint George, believed to have been a Roman soldier of Greek origin from Cappadocia and an officer in the Guard of Diocletian, is best known for this mythic tale, which is set in a town called Silene in Libya.

According to the legend, Silene was plagued by a dragon living in a nearby lake. The beast terrorized the town and poisoned the countryside. To appease the dragon, the townspeople fed it two sheep every day. When they ran out of sheep, they resorted to sacrificing their children, chosen by lottery. One day, the lot fell on the king’s daughter. Despite the king’s pleas for her life, she was dressed as a bride and sent out to the lake.

Just then, Saint George rode past the lake. The princess tried to send him away to save him from the dragon, but he vowed to remain. When the dragon emerged, Saint George made the sign of the cross, charged it on horseback, and thrust his lance into the beast’s flesh, seriously wounding it.

He then used the princess’s girdle to leash the dragon and led it back to Silene. Saint George offered to kill the dragon if the people would agree to become Christians and be baptized. The king and his people accepted the offer, and Saint George slayed the dragon. Following the dragon’s death, the body was carted out of the city on four ox-carts. A church was built on the site where the dragon died, featuring a spring that healed the sick.

Over time, Saint George became a symbol of good conquering evil and a patron saint of many countries and cities across Europe and the Middle East. His story is celebrated on Saint George’s Day, April 23, in various Christian churches.

The House of the Black Heads in Riga.

Saint George slaying the dragon

A Short Note on the History of Latvia

Already I have visited Latvia twice. Once it was just flying in and flying out of Riga, but the sceond time we journeyed through the Baltic States and had an occasion to see more of those countries than only their capital cities. Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia are usually considered together – mainly because they are three small neiggbouring countries. But even a simple look onto the historical cities of Vilnius, Riga and Tallin and their architecture, allows a conclusion that there had to be differences in their historical development. Let us now take a look onto the history of each of them. This post will be on the history of Latvia.

The region of present-day Latvia was originally inhabited by Baltic tribes – Latgalians, Selonians, Semigallians, and Curonians, who belonged to the larger Indo-European family. Despite the periods of foreign domination, the Baltic tribes maintained their linguistic and cultural heritage, which gradually synthesised into the Latvian national identity.

By the 12th century, Latvia was a key area for Viking trade routes. The arrival of German crusaders in the 13th century led to the Christianization of the region and the establishment of the Livonian Order (earlier Livonian Brothers of the Sword), a branch of the Teutonic Knights. The crusades led to the widespread conversion of the local population to Christianity, often through force and coercion. One of the leading figures in the moddle aage history of Latvia was Bishop Albert, who founded the city of Riga in 1201 as a base for missionary activities and military operations. By the end of the 13th century, the territory of present-day Latvia had been incorporated into the crusader state known as Terra Mariana or Livonia, which included parts of modern-day Estonia and Latvia. The region was governed by the Livonian Order and the Archbishopric of Riga. It was the time of the Livonian Confederation, which included various bishoprics and the Livonian Order. German influence remained strong in the region for centuries, particularly among the nobility and urban populations. Riga, established as a crusader stronghold, grew into a major trade centre in the Baltic Sea region, becoming a member of the Hanseatic League in the late Middle Ages. The major hubs like Riga and Reval (later Tallinn in present-day Estonia) were natural gates from where Lutheranism began to spread in these territories. In 1522, the first Lutheran service was held in Riga, marking the beginning of the Reformation in the city. Over the next few decades, Lutheranism spread throughout Riga and other parts of the confederation.

As a member of the Hanseatic League, Riga saw the construction of many Gothic-style buildings, including warehouses, guild houses, and residential buildings. The House of Blackheads carefully restored is a prime example of Gothic architecture from this period.

In the late Middle Ages, Latvia’s territory was contested by Poland and Sweden. In the 16th century, the Livonian Order was collapsing. The powers present in the region – Russia, Denmark, Sweden, and the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth – saw an opportunity to seize the Livonian territories. The conflict is known in the history of Latvia as the Livonian War. By the end of the war, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth emerged as a dominant power in the region. The Duchy of Livonia was established under the suzerainty of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, encompassing southern parts of modern Latvia. The northern parts of modern Latvia and southern Estonia came under Swedish control. This area was known as Swedish Livonia.

Swedish rule introduced Baroque architectural elements to Riga. Buildings such as the Small and Great Guild Halls exhibit Baroque features.

Another entity established after the Livonian War was the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia. It was created as a vassal state under the suzerainty of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, which later became part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The first Duke of Courland and Semigallia was Gotthard Kettler, the last Master of the Livonian Order. He converted to Lutheranism and became the secular ruler of the newly formed duchy. The duchy prospered economically through agriculture, shipbuilding, and trade. Courland also developed ironworks and other manufacturing industries, contributing to its economic strength. Under the rule of Duke Jacob Kettler (1642-1682), the Duchy engaged in ambitious colonial ventures, establishing colonies in Tobago (in the Caribbean) and on St. Andrew’s Island (modern-day Gambia, Africa). The duchy’s prosperity declined due to the impact of wars and conflicts between the major powers in the region.

The early 17th century saw a series of conflicts known as the Polish-Swedish Wars that infuenced the history of Latvia, as Sweden sought to expand its influence in the Baltic region at the expense of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. By the early 17th century, Sweden had gained control over most of Latvia, including Riga. The Swedish crown established a strong military presence in the region, fortifying cities and towns to defend against potential incursions from other powers, particularly Russia and Poland. Swedish rule further entrenched Lutheranism in Latvian culture and society.

After the Great Northern War (1700-1721), Swedish power in the Baltic region declined. By the end of the conflict, Russia emerged as the new dominant power in the area. Russian dominance over Latvian territories lasted until the early 20th century, including the Duchy of Courland and Semigallia, which was annexed by the Russian Empire during the third partition of Poland. The initial years of Russian rule were marked by relative religious and national tolerance. However, later Russian authorities sent Orthodox missionaries to the Baltic provinces, including Latvia, to convert the Lutheran population. Coercive measures were employed, including the restriction of Lutheran services and the promotion of Orthodoxy in public life.

At the turn of the 20th century, Riga became a centre for Art Nouveau architecture, which accounts for about one-third of the buildings in the city centre

The late 19th and early 20th centuries was the time of the Latvian National Awakening that occurred in the context of the broader European national revival movements. Following World War I and the Russian Revolution that created some political vacuum around the Baltic countries, Latvia declared independence on November 18, 1918. The subsequent Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920) solidified its sovereignty. During the interwar period, Latvia experienced economic growth and democratic governance, though it was marred by political instability. During World War II, Latvia was alternately under Soviet and German occupation, a period marked by repression, suppression of national identity, significant loss of life, and destruction. In 1944, Latvia was re-occupied by the Soviet Union, beginning four decades of Sovietization, which included industrialization, collectivization, and Russification. Many Latvians were deported to Siberia during Stalin’s purges, and there was significant immigration of Russian-speaking populations into Latvia.

In 1989, approximately two million people from Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia formed a human chain stretching over 600 kilometres (373 miles) to peacefully protest Soviet occupation. This event is known as the Baltic Way. It opened a new chapter in the history of Latvia. The country finally regained independence with the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. It embarked on economic reforms, transitioning to a market economy and joining the European Union and NATO in 2004. Latvia adopted the EU currency euro in 2014, following Estonia (2011) and preceding Lithuania (2015).

Latvia has a significant Russian-speaking minority, making up about 25-30% of the population. The country faces unique challenges related to the integration of its Russian-speaking population, including issues of language use in education and public life.

A Short Note on the History of Latvia