Solyanka. A Perfect Dish for the Morning After

Two years ago, we went on a business trip to Riga. We arrived in the afternoon, the day before our official meetings. Riga offers a wide array of restaurants, but my colleagues were meticulous in researching recommendations online. When we finally settled into a restaurant and began reading the menu, one of our companions rubbed his hands together in anticipation and exclaimed, Solyanka! Curious, I asked, What’s that? You don’t know? he replied. You must try it. It’s absolutely delicious, though quite salty. Intrigued, I took his advice and ordered it.

I must admit, the tradition of Solyanka was unfamiliar to me, likely due to my family’s culinary preferences, even though it seems to be considered a national dish in my country. I enjoyed it immensely. A year later, I had it again in a restaurant in Tallinn. On both occasions, I didn’t pay much attention to the ingredients. It wasn’t until earlier this year, while I was preparing traditional Polish cucumber soup, that I happened to watch a popular cooking show where the host was making Solyanka. That’s when I realized that to make Solyanka, I would need to add more sour brine from the cucumbers, along with some tomato paste and sausage. Luckily, I had all the ingredients in my fridge, so I decided to make Solyanka instead of cucumber soup. The host of the cooking show said, solyanka was the perfect cure for the morning after, to cope with a hangover after a party. On second thought, I agree.

Solyanka is a traditional Eastern European soup known for its rich, tangy flavour, typically made with meat, fish, or mushrooms. It’s popular in several countries, each with its variations. In Russia, solyanka includes a mix of meats (beef, pork, or sausage), fermented cucumbers, olives, capers, onions, tomato paste, and is often served with lemon and sour cream. Ukrainian solyanka is similar but may include additional vegetables like carrots and potatoes, giving it a milder, more balanced flavour. Belarusian solyanka focuses on smoked meats, providing a rich, smoky taste. In East Germany, solyanka, introduced after World War II, is now traditional. It usually features sausages, fermented cucumbers, onions, tomato paste, and bell peppers, often with a thicker, stew-like consistency and a milder flavour. Latvian Solyanka also incorporates potatoes and local spices, while Lithuanian solyanka often uses local sausages, adding a deeper, smokier flavour. Polish solyanka is similar but might include smoked fish, giving it a unique twist. In Kazakhstan, solyanka is spicier, reflecting local tastes. Overall, while the basic concept of Solyanka remains consistent, each country adds its regional touch, making this soup a versatile and cherished dish across Eastern Europe.

Before I explain how to make solyanka (using the recipe I followed for my very first homemade version), I should clarify the difference between fermented cucumbers and pickled cucumbers. For solyanka, you need to use fermented cucumbers along with the brine they were fermented in. Fermented cucumbers, which are naturally fermented in a salt brine, have a sharp, tangy flavour that adds an essential sour note to solyanka. This tanginess is crucial, as it balances the richness of the meats and other hearty ingredients in the soup. In contrast, pickled cucumbers, preserved in a vinegar-based solution, tend to be sweeter and milder. While they are delightful in many dishes, they are not suitable for solyanka, as they lack the bold sourness needed for this dish. To create a truly authentic solyanka, always opt for fermented cucumbers, ensuring your soup reflects the true spirit of Eastern European cuisine.

To make traditional fermented cucumbers, start by preparing a brine by dissolving one tablespoon of salt in one liter (4 cups) of water. You’ll need about one kilogram of small, firm cucumbers, which should be washed thoroughly. In a large, clean glass jar or ceramic crock, place a layer of fresh dill, about one bunch, along with 4-6 cloves of garlic (slightly crushed), a teaspoon of whole black peppercorns, and 2-3 bay leaves at the bottom. Arrange the cucumbers upright in the jar, packing them tightly, and add more dill, garlic, and, optionally, a few pieces of horseradish root as you fill the jar. Once the jar is full, pour the brine over the cucumbers, ensuring they are completely submerged. If needed, place a weight on top of the cucumbers to keep them below the brine. Cover the jar loosely with a cloth or lid, and leave it at room temperature for 3-7 days, depending on how sour you want the cucumbers to be. During fermentation, the cucumbers will develop a sharp, tangy flavor. Taste them after a few days to see if they’ve reached your preferred level of sourness. Once you’re satisfied, transfer the jar to the refrigerator to slow down the fermentation process. The fermented cucumbers can be stored in the fridge for several weeks, maintaining their crunchy texture and vibrant taste. Regularly check the surface of the brine and skim off any foam or scum that forms during fermentation.

To prepare a hearty Solyanka with fermented cucumbers, sausage, and potatoes, start by making a robust stock. Begin with about 1.5 liters of beef or chicken broth, simmered from bones with vegetables such as carrots, celery, and onions, to create a rich, flavorful base. This stock should be well-seasoned with salt and pepper and can be prepared in advance or made fresh on the day. In Poland, many homemakers often prepare larger quantities of broth so that they can use the stock in the following days to make other soups.

Heat a large pot over medium heat and add a tablespoon of butter or oil. Finely chop one large onion and sauté it until golden brown. Add two cloves of minced garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant. Next, slice 200–300 grams of smoked sausage and add it to the pot. Fry the sausage until it begins to brown.

Meanwhile, peel and dice two medium-sized potatoes into bite-sized pieces. Add the potatoes to the pot, stirring them with the sausage and onions. To help the potatoes cook more evenly in the soup, you can briefly soak them in boiling water, then drain before adding.

Pour in your prepared broth, bringing everything to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat and let the soup simmer until the potatoes are tender (about 15 minutes). While the soup simmers, take four fermented cucumbers (about 200 grams) and dice them. Add the cucumbers to the pot along with two tablespoons of tomato paste. Stir well to combine. Pour in about 100 ml of cucumber brine to enhance the flavour. Let the soup simmer for another 10 minutes. For seasoning, add a teaspoon of smoked paprika, half a teaspoon of ground cumin, and a bay leaf. Taste and adjust with salt, pepper, or more brine if needed. Once done, remove the bay leaf and serve.

Ladle into bowls and top with a dollop of sour cream or yoghurt and a few lemon slices. Fresh dill or parsley makes a perfect garnish.

You may also like the recipes for: French Onion Soup, German Potato and Sausage Eintopf, Lithuanian Cold Beet Soup, French Beef Bourguignon, or New Zealand Chowder.

Solyanka. A Perfect Dish for the Morning After

Art Nouveau District in Riga. Where Architecture Turns into Sculpture

When I first visited Riga nearly two years ago, I was there on a business trip, staying at a hotel situated on the edge of the historic city. This location gave me the opportunity to step out with my camera both in the morning and after work in the afternoon. At that time, I could only explore the historic city, which had developed in the Hanseatic tradition. However, my colleagues told me that after a business dinner, a small group of them, along with a few locals, went out to see a district with “beautifully decorated buildings”. It was evening, and some of the buildings were illuminated, allowing them to see the decorations clearly. A year later, when I returned to Riga and had the chance to take a guided tour early in the morning, we went straight to that place.

The Art Nouveau district in Riga, located primarily in its central part, especially around Alberta Street and Elizabetes Street, is a captivating area renowned for its unique collection of early 20th-century architecture. It comprises dozens, perhaps even more, houses designed in a highly ornamental style, adorned with elaborate sculptures. These elements are not just additions but are seamlessly integrated into the buildings, enhancing both their functionality and aesthetic appeal. The facades are well-maintained, and you can see the detailed restoration work.

Art Nouveau emerged as a response to the classical style, particularly the Neoclassical style, which dominated academic art and architecture. Academic art refers to the artistic style and practices promoted and taught in European fine arts academies, especially from the 17th to the early 20th century. This style is characterized by a strong connection to classical traditions, a focus on the idealization of forms, technical mastery, and often a high level of formalism. In architecture, historical styles such as Neoclassicism and Neo-Gothic were predominant, and a restrained use of decoration based on ancient arts was closely linked to the principles and aesthetics taught in academies.

Art Nouveau broke away from these conventions, introducing greater freedom in forms and experimenting with new materials and techniques. The main goals of Art Nouveau were the revival of craftsmanship and the promotion of the idea that decorative arts, such as furniture design, glass, and ceramics, should be treated with the same respect as traditional fine arts like painting and sculpture. Art Nouveau aimed to create a new aesthetic that was both beautiful and functional, utilizing innovative forms and materials and integrating art into everyday life.

Below is a gallery of photos that I took in the Art Nouveau district in Riga.

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Art Nouveau District in Riga. Where Architecture Turns into Sculpture

Saint George slaying the dragon

One of the main buildings in historic Riga is the House of the Black Heads. It was originally built in the 14th century for the Brotherhood of Black Heads, a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners in Riga. The Brotherhood of Black Heads was named after Saint Maurice, a Christian martyr who was depicted as a black African in medieval art. This building has a very beautiful facade adorned with statues of various figures, among them Saint George slaying the dragon, whose feast we celebrate today.

Saint George slaying the dragon on the facade of the House of Black Heads in Riga.

Saint George, believed to have been a Roman soldier of Greek origin from Cappadocia and an officer in the Guard of Diocletian, is best known for this mythic tale, which is set in a town called Silene in Libya.

According to the legend, Silene was plagued by a dragon living in a nearby lake. The beast terrorized the town and poisoned the countryside. To appease the dragon, the townspeople fed it two sheep every day. When they ran out of sheep, they resorted to sacrificing their children, chosen by lottery. One day, the lot fell on the king’s daughter. Despite the king’s pleas for her life, she was dressed as a bride and sent out to the lake.

Just then, Saint George rode past the lake. The princess tried to send him away to save him from the dragon, but he vowed to remain. When the dragon emerged, Saint George made the sign of the cross, charged it on horseback, and thrust his lance into the beast’s flesh, seriously wounding it.

He then used the princess’s girdle to leash the dragon and led it back to Silene. Saint George offered to kill the dragon if the people would agree to become Christians and be baptized. The king and his people accepted the offer, and Saint George slayed the dragon. Following the dragon’s death, the body was carted out of the city on four ox-carts. A church was built on the site where the dragon died, featuring a spring that healed the sick.

Over time, Saint George became a symbol of good conquering evil and a patron saint of many countries and cities across Europe and the Middle East. His story is celebrated on Saint George’s Day, April 23, in various Christian churches.

The House of the Black Heads in Riga.

Saint George slaying the dragon