A Glacier Walk in New Zealand South Island

Heading to New Zealand, you expect to enjoy breathtaking nature – and you absolutely will. But the country offers more than just scenic walks and stunning views. Many incredible places are not easily accessible on foot, or reaching them would cost too much time and effort. That’s why New Zealand’s outdoor tourism industry is so well developed – with helicopters, boats, water gear, and cleverly built pathways that allow access to remote spots without the need for professional equipment. What’s also important is that New Zealand isn’t easily overrun by mass tourism. Most of the time, you’ll find yourself exploring in small groups, surrounded by silence and space, with no one else around – or at least not close enough to notice. And that’s exactly how it was during our glacier walk on the South Island.

When we crossed from New Zealand’s North Island to the South Island by ferry, a storm was in the forecast – possibly even a cyclone. And sure enough, the night we were supposed to reach Fox Glacier, where our glacier walk was originally scheduled, it hit. In the Southern Alps, where our hike was meant to happen, avalanches caused by the storm damaged State Highway 6 in several places, cutting off access to the Fox Glacier valley. Our bit of luck in all this was that we had planned a night’s stay just before crossing the mountains, with the idea of continuing to Fox the next morning. So we made it to our accommodation, but it became clear that getting across the range in time for our booking wasn’t going to happen. What we learned (and what we’d keep learning throughout the trip) is that New Zealand’s outdoor industry is not only adventurous, but impressively well-organized – especially when the weather messes with your plans. We had to cancel our original tour to Fox Glacier, but luckily, there was a similar heli-hiking option available nearby, at Franz Josef Glacier, on the accessible side of the mountain. So the glacier we eventually walked on wasn’t the one we’d originally planned to visit – but we were still able to join a morning group at Franz Josef, cancel with the other operator, and make the most of the day.

The Southern Alps are the main mountain range of New Zealand’s South Island, stretching over 500 kilometers along the island’s rugged western coast. The highest peak, Aoraki / Mount Cook (3,724 m), carries both a Māori and a European name – as do many natural landmarks in New Zealand. The name Alps was given by James Cook and his crew, who thought these snow-covered peaks looked strikingly similar to the European Alps they knew from home. On the western slopes of this range – steep, wet, and densely forested – lie the two most famous glaciers: Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glacier. What makes them unique is how low they descend, reaching almost into temperate rainforest and lying only a short distance from the sea. Franz Josef Glacier (known in Māori as Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere) was named in 1865 by Austrian geologist Julius von Haast, in honor of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria. According to Māori legend, the glacier was formed from the tears of a young woman mourning her lover, who died in the mountains – which is why its traditional name translates to The Tears of Hine Hukatere. It’s a place where alpine drama meets lush rainforest, and where raw nature, deep stories, and unexpected access come together – the perfect setting for an unforgettable walk on ice.

We reached the glacier by helicopter, after being fully equipped by the tour operator with proper clothing, sturdy boots, and crampons. When we arrived at the base at the scheduled time, we quickly learned that this wasn’t yet the time to fly. First, despite already wearing decent outdoor gear, we were taken to a changing room and given full equipment – waterproof pants, jackets, gloves, boots, and crampons. As you’ll see in the photos, everyone looked pretty similar – the gear was clearly standard issue, and very effective. It was designed to keep you dry even if you stepped in glacier meltwater, which turned out to be very useful. We were also asked to leave most of our personal belongings in lockers and only take essentials, packed into small waterproof bags provided by the staff. Then came the helicopter part. Before boarding, we were all weighed and seated accordingly – the pilot arranged us inside based on weight distribution to keep the helicopter balanced. My lucky break? I got the seat next to the pilot, which means I also got some great window shots of the glacier as we flew in. You’ll see those just below.

At first, I thought the glacier walk would be just that – a simple walk with plenty of photo opportunities. The surface where we landed looked fairly flat, and the surrounding slopes didn’t seem too steep. The crampons strapped to our boots made walking on the ice surprisingly easy. But I soon realized that the entire experience was carefully planned. After about an hour of easy strolling, we approached some ice formations that, from a distance, didn’t appear very high – but in reality, they were massive. That’s when it became clear there were more guides on the glacier than just the one who had accompanied us from the start. While we were walking on the flat surface, the other guides had been busy preparing our route across to the other side of the mountain – digging ice stairs into the steeper sections and selecting narrow ice crevasses we’d actually have to climb into. Some professional climbing gear came into play, and suddenly it wasn’t just a walk anymore. At one point, I even got wedged between two icy walls. Luckily, we had three fantastic guides with us – kind, supportive, and keeping the mood light. Lady, I’m not helping you, one of them joked as he steadied me on a tricky descent, I just wanted to hold your hand.

The whole time, we felt completely alone on the glacier – or at least that was the impression. Only if you looked far across to the other side of the slope, really far, you might have spotted a few tiny red dots moving in the distance. Honestly, I only noticed them after I saw a very small helicopter landing on that part of the mountain. Below are the photos I took during our glacier flight and walk, shown exactly in the same order in which I took them.

In New Zealand, the outdoor industry is more than just adventure – it’s a well-structured system built around safety, flexibility, and respect for nature. Any company offering outdoor activities – whether it’s heli-hiking, speed boating, bungee jumping, kayaking, or trekking – has to be officially registered, meet strict safety standards, and go through regular audits. Oversight comes from national agencies like WorkSafe NZ, the Civil Aviation Authority, or Maritime NZ, depending on the type of activity. Operators are required to assess risks, react to changing weather, and make sure everyone has a great experience without compromising safety. What happened to us – having to cancel a trip due to avalanche damage and immediately being offered a well-organized alternative – isn’t unusual. That kind of flexibility is part of the system. Another thing that makes a big difference is that most activities are run in small groups, and access to popular areas is often limited. That’s why even well-known spots don’t feel crowded, and you still get that feeling of being close to nature. Local communities are also closely involved, and many activities operate in cooperation with the Department of Conservation, which manages access to protected areas. All of this means that outdoor adventures in New Zealand aren’t just beautiful and exciting – they’re also remarkably well-managed, with a strong focus on safety, comfort, and responsibility.

A Glacier Walk in New Zealand South Island

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri

New Zealand is known for its natural wonders. One of them is well advertised Waitomo glowworm caves located in the New Zealand North Island. The caves are known for their unique natural phenomena, created by thousands of glowworms that inhabit them. The glowworms emit a blue-green light that creates a magical effect in the dark underground cave environment.

To see the glow worms, one has to stay in the dark. No photos are allowed there. Only in the first cave, where the guide explains what you see and will see, for a moment, lights are on, so you can see how the glow worms look like in light. The highlight is a boat ride in the dark in a cave. Its ceiling is fully covered with glowworms. You raise your head up and feel like you under a night sky, but somehow the stars are closer to you. You are requested full silence while there. Unforgettable feeling.

As I do not have a habit to break the rules and make photos where it is not allowed, I asked the AI to recreate what I saw. The picture reflects that what I remember from Waiotomo caves (an addition of 2024).

But the sightseeing of the glow-worm caves, including descent, lasts only 45 minutes. The boat ride maybe only a quarter. To get to the caves, we made an extra 350 km there and back, which meant more than four hours in the van. As we arrived at Waitomo, I realized that our planned schedule is only 45 minutes of sightseeing. In a spur of the moment, I decided to make a surcharge on the original ticket (reserved some time ago from at home) and visit another complex of caves called Ruakuri caves located around two km distance from the main cave. In the aftermath, an excellent decision. To see the main glow-worm cave was fascinating, but only after visiting the other complex of caves, I went out fully satisfied with how I spent my day. The sightseeing lasted around one hour and a half. They went by before I have noticed it.

The caves feature a series of limestone formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstones, which have been formed over millions of years. The Ruakuri Caves are named after the legendary Maori chief Ruakuri, who is said to have discovered the cave system over 400 years ago. Ruakuri means “den of dogs”.

The Ruakuri caves are located 60 meters below the surface. The descent lasts around five minutes alongside a round path made inside a huge well. Before the descent, our guide explained to us the strict safety and environmental protection rules we had to follow. Ruakuri Cave is advertised as the New Zealand’s longest guided underground walking tour. What is interesting, its catwalks are wheel-chair accessible. Going down within several minutes, you feel the temperature decreases by many grades.

The path down to the Ruakuri caves. You feel like descending into a huge well.

Exploring caves of Ruakuri involves walking on catwalks that had been installed inside the caves. Alongside some of the catwalks, there are movement detectors installed that catch any movement outside the path. The system was designed so that the tourists do not touch any of the rock formations. Huge fines await those who would destroy even a piece of the rock formations. One of the unique features of the Ruakuri Cave tour is the use of innovative lighting systems, which illuminate the cave’s natural features while minimizing the impact on the cave’s delicate ecosystem. It allows the ecosystem to stay in the dark for most of the time. Small lights red, blue, or white are installed alongside the catwalk paths. From time to time, the whole group stops under a rock formation. The guide is then turning on white lights so that you can admire the formations and take photos. Basically, making photos is allowed all the time. The only exception, as I remember, is a glow-worm cave, where you are requested to walk in the darkness keeping your hand on your predecessor’s shoulder. After reaching the cave, you are asked to stop for a while. Silence is requested, too. Unforgettable feeling. Another attraction you admire only in the darkness is a waterfall. For a moment, you stop and listen to falling waters. You may only try to imagine how it looks like. Later you are explained that it is ‘only’ of one and a half meter high. But the acoustics in the caves is that outstanding that you would easily believe it is much bigger.

The catwalks inside the Ruakuri caves.

The rocks formations are mostly limestone. They are, however, of different shapes. As lights turned on by the guide are of different colors, I cannot confirm that what you may see on the photos below is the actual colors.

Just a selection of photos I made while exploring caves of Ruakuri

The Ruakuri caves include several chambers with glowworms. There are at least two spots where the guide turns on the light. First, you see the worms glowing in the darkness, and later you may see the same formation in the light. The glow-worms are in fact like twines hanging down, the ends of which are glowing in the darkness. If in the main Waitomo cave, you feel disappointed that you cannot take photos to remember the trip, you will have an occasion to make them freely in the Ruakuri caves.

A small glowworm formation in the dark (on the left) and in the flashlight (on the right).

The man-made underground path allows for exploring caves to everyone, not just those specializing in extreme caving, but really anyone who would like to admire the natural wonders located underground from a safe vantage point.

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri