Hunter’s Stew (Bigos) with Mushrooms, Prunes, and a Touch of Whisky

Bigos is one of the signature dishes of Polish cuisine — a hearty, slow-cooked cabbage stew. While there are countless regional and family variations, the core ingredients remain the same: sauerkraut, fresh cabbage, a mix of meats, and mushrooms (traditionally dried boletes).

Bigos roots are stretching back to the 17th century. Once a luxurious, meat-laden dish favoured by the nobility and served at lavish feasts and hunts, it gradually evolved into a more accessible stew with the addition of sauerkraut. It became one of the earliest examples of food “to go” in Polish history — ideal for journeys and reheating, and famously said to taste even better after a few days. It has regional variations. The Lithuanian version is more refined, often with juniper and venison; the Silesian one is simpler, sometimes including potatoes; the hunter’s version from Masuria features game and forest mushrooms. In parts of Poland, a meatless version with mushrooms and dried fruit is a served at Christmas Eve.

This time, I decided to take on the challenge of making Bigos myself — opting for the richer, darker variation made with prunes. It was no small task. Preparing it took me nearly five hours of continuous work in the kitchen. It’s a long, layered process: each ingredient needs careful preparation and timing, and everything must be stirred and watched closely throughout.

The photo below shows the stew just after it was finished. But bigos is a dish that truly shines after a few days of rest and repeated reheating. This particular prune-based version darkens beautifully over time — both in colour and in depth of flavour.

Below, you’ll find the entire cooking process of prune-based bigos, captured step by step in photos. I made a few creative adjustments to the traditional recipe — most notably, I added whisky and soy sauce, which are certainly not typical Polish ingredients.

Alongside the core components of sauerkraut and fresh cabbage, I used beef, smoked sausage, bacon, dried boletes, and prunes. To build deeper flavour, I also added onion, tomato purée, apple, preserved plums, red wine, butter, salt, bay leaf, and allspice.

Meat & Fat: 250–300 g stewing beef or pork (e.g. shoulder or chuck), 100 g smoked sausage (chorizo, juniper, or country-style), 2 tbsp vegetable oil (for browning the meat), 2 tbsp olive oil or vegetable oil (final addition), 1 tbsp butter. Cabbage: 500 g sauerkraut, 400 g white cabbage (approx. 1/3 of a small head). Mushrooms & Fruit: 30 g dried porcini mushrooms, (optional) 150 g frozen wild mushrooms, 150 g dried prunes, 1 tbsp plum preserve, 1 small apple, grated. Vegetables & Sauces: 2 medium onions, 1 tbsp tomato purée, 2 tbsp soy sauce. Liquids: 200 ml dry red wine (or beef stock), 40–50 ml whisky. Spices: 1 bay leaf, 2 allspice berries, 3 juniper berries, ½ tsp whole caraway seeds, ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper.

Begin by rinsing the dried porcini mushrooms under cold water, then covering them with cold water and leaving them to soak. Meanwhile, halve the dried prunes and soak them in red wine. These ingredients will slowly infuse the dish with earthy and sweet notes.

Dice the stewing meat into small cubes, season lightly with salt, and brown it in a hot pan with oil until well-coloured on all sides. Once browned, pour in the whisky, allow it to boil briefly so the alcohol evaporates, and scrape up any caramelised bits from the pan for extra flavour.

In a large cooking pot, bring water and soy sauce to a simmer, then add the seared meat and cover the pot. Let it cook gently for around 45 minutes so the flavours start to build.

While the meat is simmering, finely dice the onions, shred the sauerkraut (rinsing and squeezing it first if overly sour), and finely chop the white cabbage after removing its core and outer leaves.

In the same pan used for the meat, melt butter with olive oil and sauté the onions with bay leaf, allspice, juniper and caraway seeds until soft and lightly golden. Add the sauerkraut, cook it with the onion mixture briefly, then pour in a little water and bring it to a gentle boil.

Return to the pot and add the shredded white cabbage, cooking it with the meat for a few minutes before stirring in the sautéed onion and sauerkraut mixture, the soaked mushrooms along with their liquid, and the wine-soaked prunes.

To deepen the base, add tomato purée, plum preserve and a grated or finely diced apple. Mix everything well, cover, and simmer the bigos slowly for 1½ to 2 hours, stirring now and then to prevent it from catching on the bottom.

Halfway through, slice the sausage and fry it until golden, then add it to the stew along with the rendered fat. If you’re using frozen wild mushrooms, add them now as well.

Towards the end, season the bigos with freshly ground black pepper, taste and adjust with a little salt if needed. Finally, stir in some olive oil or neutral oil to finish the dish with a glossy, smooth richness.

Bigos is always best after resting. Cool it completely and store it in the fridge. Reheat it over the next few days and you’ll notice the flavours deepen beautifully. This prune version becomes darker, richer and more intense with every reheating — just as it should.

Hunter’s Stew (Bigos) with Mushrooms, Prunes, and a Touch of Whisky

A simple chowder for Good Friday

Good Friday is for many a fasting day. So it is for my parents, both around eighty today. As all-day fasting, like my mother did it in the past, does not come into play today, we had to think of some reasonable alternative. Our housekeeper, understanding well the traditional kitchen, proposed traditional dumplings on mushrooms and sauerkraut (>>>) for dinner. ‘I could make fish soup, the one I made after I came back from New Zealand’ was my response. So quite quickly the choice was clear, for Good Friday dinner we would have fish soup and dumplings as the second course.

What I meant however was not a fish soup that is traditionally prepared around the Baltic, but the chowder, a kind of seafood soup I caught up somewhere in New Zealand. As now I realize, the dish is well-known in many English-speaking countries, but somehow it was New Zealand, where I first tasted it. Funny, I can get all the ingredients needed for a simple chowder around the corner, but never ever before imagined that this combination may be so tasty.

To be frank, that what we ate in New Zealand, we considered a truly bad choice. It was the worst dinner we had there, but on that very evening, we barely had a choice. Restaurant kitchens close early in New Zealand. The chowder was recommended to us as a traditional dish, so I thought to myself, ‘maybe the cook had a bad day.’ After I came back home, I looked through the recipes on the internet and tried to repeat that, what I recalled. The main ingredients I remembered were fish, potatoes, and milk (or cream, or even both). And indeed, the recipe I have chosen and carefully applied, gave back a genuinely delicious as well as a nutritious meal.

Simple chowder, a traditional seafood and milk dish I tasted in New Zealand. Curious that although all the ingredients are traditional in the continental European kitchen, I needed to go down under to taste it the first time in my life.

The chowder I prepared for Good Friday is for sure not exactly the same I ate in New Zealand. Nevermind. Besides white fish fillet, potatoes, milk, and cream, I also added pieces of smoked salmon and raisins. The other ingredients were butter, onion, garlic, mustard as well as salt, pepper and parsley leaves.

A simple chowder for Good Friday