Last autumn, we took a family trip to southern Italy. Although we planned to meet up there, I chose a different route from the rest of the family and couldn’t resist spending a few days in Rome. We agreed that once I arrived in Bari, I would hire a car, and each day we would set off to explore a new destination. With autumn in full swing, the usual crowds were gone. The weather was mild, but chill. Perefect conditions for sightseeing.
One of the towns we visited was Alberobello. We wandered through the town centre, visited the local ctahedral, but our main focus was exploring the trulli district, known for its unique houses. Since we had a spirited two-year-old with us, we were fortunate to find parking right in the town centre, close to the entrance of the trulli area, where parking spaces were reserved for families with young children.
Alberobello is a charming town located in the Apulia region of southern Italy. The town is about 55 kilometres southeast of Bari, the regional capital. The town is surrounded by a landscape of vineyards and orchards, offering a quintessentially Mediterranean setting. As we approached Alberobello, just a few kilometres away, we began to spot the first trulli.
We later discovered that many of these unique homes are still inhabited. However, on the hill where the largest concentration of trulli is found, many appeared unoccupied. These were well-maintained, but due to their challenging access – both by car and on foot – it’s likely they are mainly kept for the tourist season. Outside of this period, the owners probably stay elsewhere, and there aren’t many tourists eager to spend the night. We had the chance to explore a few of the trulli from the inside, as some have been converted into small shops and restaurants. The interiors are incredibly cosy and quite modernly equipped.
The origins of the trulli in ALberobello date back to the 14th century, during a time when the Kingdom of Naples ruled the region. Local landlords wanted to avoid paying taxes on permanent dwellings, which were imposed by the Spanish rulers at the time. To circumvent these taxes, they encouraged the construction of temporary, easily dismantled homes. The result was the trullo, a structure built entirely without mortar, using only local limestone.
The technique of dry-stone construction allowed for easy disassembly if the need arose, but it also proved remarkably durable. The thick stone walls provided excellent insulation against both the summer heat and winter cold, making the trulli comfortable year-round. The conical roofs were constructed by laying limestone slabs in a circular pattern, creating a self-supporting structure that required no internal framework.
The unique architectural style of the trulli also had a symbolic aspect. Many of the conical roofs are topped with pinnacles, which could be religious or mystical symbols, possibly linked to local superstitions or beliefs. Additionally, some trulli have painted symbols on their roofs, thought to ward off evil or bring good fortune.
Over time, what started as a practical solution to a tax problem evolved into a beloved and distinctive architectural style. While some trulli in Alberobello fell into disrepair, others were maintained, restored, and even modernized. Today, as we could have seen it, many trulli have been transformed into homes, guesthouses, shops, and restaurants.
