When I visited Ghent I did not not expect much beyond a pleasant walk. But stepping off the tram into the historic centre, I found myself surrounded by the legacy of medieval Ghent—towers, churches, and guildhalls that still speak of the city’s past as a wealthy and self-governing hub of trade and craftsmanship.

Medieval Ghent | Gante medieval | Gand moyenâgeux | Gent mittelalterlich | 中世纪根特 | القرون الوسطى خنت | 中世のヘント | मध्यकालीन गेंट | Гент средневековый | 중세 헨트

Some time ago, I used to travel to Brussels frequently for work. Occasionally, rather than returning home on Friday only to come back Sunday evening or early Monday, I preferred to stay for the weekend. Belgium, being a small and well-connected country, made spontaneous city breaks an easy option. One of the cities I chose to explore was Ghent.

From the train station, a tram takes you directly to the historic centre. I remember getting off the tram and walking just a few dozen metres to the main street of the historical town. It was perhaps the only time I stood in awe on a city street – not because of any modern skyline, but because of the density of high towers from the Middle Ages at one street. It felt astonishingly monumental. As I later discovered, the sequence of prominent buildings includes St Nicholas’ Church, followed by the Belfry, which is adjoined by the Cloth Hall, and finally St Bavo’s Cathedral. All of these monumental structures, as we see them today, were constructed between the 13th and 16th centuries. They were funded by civic authorities, guilds, and the Church, reflecting the city’s wealth and power during the Middle Ages.

Ghent, located in the Flanders region of Belgium, lies approximately halfway between Brussels and Bruges. Its strategic position at the confluence of the Rivers Scheldt and Leie provided a crucial advantage in medieval trade. These waterways enabled efficient transport of goods both inland – the river network extended deep into what is now Belgium, and further towards Germany and France, facilitating trade with interior regions – and towards the coast, connecting Ghent to the North Sea via Bruges. The latter at the time served as the region’s primary maritime hub. This connectivity allowed for flourishing commerce with England, France, and the Hanseatic states. Access to such international trade routes enabled medieval Ghent to thrive as a major commercial centre, laying the foundation for its long-term economic prosperity.

In the 12th century specialised in cloth industry, especially the production of luxurious woollen textiles. The 14th and 15th centuries are often referred to as Ghent’s Golden Age. At that time, Ghent ranked among the largest and wealthiest cities in northern Europe.

Although medieval Ghent was renowned for its high-quality woollen fabrics, it did not produce wool locally on a large scale – the raw material had to be imported. The most important source of wool was England, particularly from the 13th century onwards. Wool from English sheep, especially from regions such as Lincolnshire and the Cotswolds, was prized for its quality and fibre length, and Ghent, along with the rest of Flanders, was one of its key recipients. As this trade grew in importance, any disruption – such as through political conflicts or embargoes – had serious economic consequences for the city. Wool was also imported from Scotland and Ireland, though to a lesser extent, and later from Spain, especially when merino wool gained popularity (high-quality wool that comes from Merino sheep, a breed originally from Spain but now mostly raised in countries like Australia and New Zealand).

Medieval Ghent | Gante medieval | Gand moyenâgeux | Gent mittelalterlich | 中世纪根特 | القرون الوسطى خنت | 中世のヘント | मध्यकालीन गेंट | Гент средневековый | 중세 헨트

Ghent’s merchants and clothmakers’ guilds operated within a well-developed trade network that ensured a steady supply of imported wool, which was processed in local workshops. The city specialised in the production of woollen cloth, not finished garments. Fabric was Ghent’s export product – garments were typically made elsewhere by local tailors, often to order. This division of labour was typical in the region, with cities like Bruges and Ypres also focusing on textile manufacturing.

Thanks to its reputation for quality, Ghent’s cloth reached elite clients across Europe. The French royal court was among its most prestigious customers, particularly during periods when fashion and frequent changes of attire were used to express wealth, status, and political power. Other buyers included the nobility, wealthy merchants, and church institutions from the Holy Roman Empire, the Iberian Peninsula, northern Italy, and the Hanseatic cities. In this way, Ghent’s textile industry not only sustained local prosperity but also shaped European fashion and material culture.

Although medieval Ghent never became a banking powerhouse on the scale of Florence or Venice, the growth of international trade encouraged the emergence of financial institutions serving both local merchants and foreign traders. By the 14th century, Ghent was home mainly to local moneychangers, who facilitated currency exchange and provided deposit services. Their role was essential at a time when Europe’s fragmented monetary systems required frequent conversions. However, unlike Bruges, where Italian bankers had a strong presence, Ghent attracted relatively few foreign banking houses. The absence of public exchange banks in Flemish cities such as Ghent is often seen as a historical anomaly, particularly given the otherwise dynamic development of finance in the region. Nevertheless, Ghent’s entrepreneurs made use of financial services available in other Flemish cities like Bruges and, later, Antwerp, which eventually became more prominent banking centres. It is also worth noting that the evolution of finance in the region was closely linked to the textile trade – many cloth merchants engaged directly in financial operations, a common practice of the time.

Ghent was a city with a high degree of autonomy – it had its own self-government, the right to mint coins, to create local laws, and to maintain its own municipal courts. Although it was formally under the authority of the Count of Flanders (and later the Dukes of Burgundy), it often pursued an independent policy, and its citizens fiercely defended their privileges, even by force if necessary. Wealthy merchants and master craftsmen played an active role in governing the city. In many cases, they formed the town council (council of elders or city council), which made decisions on the most important matters. The guilds had their own regulations, courts, and penalties, giving them a high level of independence within the city’s legal system. Cloth producers in Ghent were granted exclusive rights by the city authorities to manufacture and sell cloth within the city. This protected them from outside competition and ensured a stable income. The cloth guilds supervised the quality of the goods produced. As a result, Flemish cloth gained great prestige in foreign markets, especially in England, France, and Italy. Ghent’s merchants were often exempt from customs duties or enjoyed reduced rates, in exchange for loyalty to the authorities or financial support to the city.

Ghent’s prominence began to decline in the late 16th century, due to a combination of economic, political, and cultural shifts that reshaped trade across the Low Countries.

During the 14th and 16th centuries, the Count of Flanders attempted to exert greater control over the city and its thriving textile industry. The citizens of Ghent – particularly the powerful guilds – resisted these efforts, rising up in a series of revolts that led to periods of open conflict. The most famous of these was the Ghent Uprising of 1539–1540, a direct challenge to Emperor Charles V. At the heart of the rebellion was Ghent’s refusal to pay the high taxes imposed by Charles V to finance his wars. The city, proud of its long-standing privileges and autonomy, demanded that its historic rights be respected and firmly opposed imperial intervention. In response, Charles V acted with force. In 1540, he marched into Ghent with his troops, crushed the uprising, and subjected the city to a public and symbolic humiliation. The city’s leaders were forced to appear barefoot and dressed in shirts to beg for the emperor’s pardon. While the revolt did not cause the immediate downfall of Ghent, it had severe and lasting consequences. The city lost many of its medieval privileges, including its judicial and administrative autonomy. The influence of the guilds and municipal councils was drastically reduced. Charles V also ordered the construction of a fortress – the Spanjaardenkasteel (Castle of the Spaniards) – to keep the population under close watch. In addition, Ghent was burdened with heavy fines and taxes.

A major factor was the silting of the waterways leading to Bruges, which disrupted one of Ghent’s key maritime links.

At the same time, the region was engulfed in the Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648), a conflict that caused widespread instability, religious tensions, and the fragmentation of commercial networks. The Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648) was a revolt by the Dutch provinces against Spanish rule, driven by religious tensions, heavy taxation, and a desire for independence. It ended with the Treaty of Westphalia, which recognized the Dutch Republic as a sovereign nation, marking the birth of the modern Netherlands, and later also Belgium.

By the 17th century, changing fashion trends across Europe further undermined Ghent’s traditional textile dominance. The rise in popularity of silk, velvet, and other luxury fabrics -often imported from Italy, the Ottoman Empire, and Asia – gradually displaced the central role of woollen cloth in elite wardrobes. While Ghent retained its status as an important regional textile centre, its position in the luxury fashion market declined as the European aristocracy sought new symbols of prestige.

Meanwhile, Antwerp rose to become the new economic powerhouse of the Low Countries. With a deep-water port and stronger access to the North Sea, Antwerp attracted international merchants and became a major hub for trade, finance, and shipping. As a result, Ghent found itself bypassed by key maritime routes and lost much of its earlier global significance. Though it remained active in local commerce and retained some of its industrial base, Ghent never regained the international stature it had enjoyed during its Golden Age.

Medieval Ghent | Gante medieval | Gand moyenâgeux | Gent mittelalterlich | 中世纪根特 | القرون الوسطى خنت | 中世のヘント | मध्यकालीन गेंट | Гент средневековый | 중세 헨트

The wealth generated from trade and industry enabled Ghent to invest generously in its architectural heritage.

The first building that catches your eye when stepping off the tram in Ghent’s historic centre is St Nicholas’ Church. It is one of the city’s oldest surviving churches. Construction began in the early 13th century, replacing an earlier Romanesque structure. St. Nicholas was the patron saint of merchants and sailors, which made this church especially significant in Ghent, a thriving centre of trade and commerce. St Nicholas’ Church was largely funded by wealthy merchant guilds, particularly those involved in the cloth and grain trades. It served as their parish church

The church stood right at the heart of the old market district, surrounded by guildhalls and merchant houses. Its central lantern tower, positioned directly over the crossing of the nave and transept once served as a watchtower. Throughout its history, the church experienced decline, especially during the French Revolution when it was deconsecrated and used as a stable and warehouse. In the 19th and 20th centuries, it underwent major restoration efforts to preserve its Gothic character.

St Nicholas’ Church

The Cloth Hall, a lower but spledid building situated next to the Belfry, reflects the central role that textile production and trade played in the city’s economic and civic life. It was financed by the textile guilds, particularly the powerful cloth-makers of Ghent Construction began in 1425 and continued until 1445, although only seven of the originally planned eleven bays were completed at the time. The hall was intended to serve as a regulated marketplace for woollen cloth, where textiles were inspected, measured, and traded, ensuring quality control in a thriving international market. Ironically, the building was erected just as Ghent’s cloth industry began to decline, due to shifting trade routes and growing foreign competition. The unfinished sections were eventually completed in the early 20th century, finally realising the medieval vision of its full architectural design.

In front the Cloth Hall of Ghent, behind the Belfry

Following its original commercial use, the Cloth Hall was repurposed for various civic functions. From 1613, it housed the city’s fencing school and served as the headquarters of the Guild of Saint Michael. Later, between 1742 and 1902, its crypt functioned as the city prison, accessible through the Mammelokker, a Rococo-style annex added in 1741 (compare photos above). Today, the Cloth Hall is home to a museum dedicated to the Guild of Saint Michael, preserving the memory of Ghent’s martial and mercantile traditions.

Medieval Ghent | Gante medieval | Gand moyenâgeux | Gent mittelalterlich | 中世纪根特 | القرون الوسطى خنت | 中世のヘント | मध्यकालीन गेंट | Гент средневековый | 중세 헨트

Another striking landmark on Ghent’s skyline is St Bavo’s Cathedral, a Gothic edifice that stands on the site of a much older church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, consecrated in 942. This early structure was replaced in the mid-12th century by a Romanesque church, and over time, the cathedral evolved into the Gothic building we see today, developed mainly between the 14th and 16th centuries. Following the Ghent Uprising under the orders of Emperor Charles V, the Saint Bavo’s Abbey existent in Ghent for centuries was dissolved and much of the abbey was demolished and repurposed as military barracks. The abbot and monks were secularised and granted the title of canon. Their chapter was transferred to Saint John’s Church, which from that point forward became known as Saint Bavo’s Church. It was funded by the Catholic Church, with substantial contributions from local nobility and clergy. When the Diocese of Ghent was established in 1559, this church was elevated to cathedral status and officially became St Bavo’s Cathedral.

Saint Bavo was a 7th-century Frankish nobleman who became a monk and later a hermit after a religious conversion. Born around 589 into a wealthy family, he led a worldly and indulgent life as a knight until the death of his wife, which prompted him to renounce his possessions and dedicate himself to faith. He distributed his wealth to the poor, entered a monastery in Ghent, and eventually lived as a hermit in the forest. He died around 654 and was later venerated as a saint. Saint Bavo is the patron saint of Ghent

St Bavo’s is best known as the home of the world-famous Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by the Van Eyck brothers. This 15th-century altarpiece is considered one of the masterpieces of European art and a cornerstone of the Flemish Renaissance. The cathedral also houses The Conversion of St Bavo by Peter Paul Rubens, along with beautifully ornate altars, the tombs of former bishops, and a grand Baroque organ.

As the seat of the Bishop of Ghent, the cathedral remains the central place of worship in the diocese. It is open to the public, with free access to the main church. Entry to view the original Ghent Altarpiece in its chapel requires a ticket.

The buildings described above are by no means the only gems of medieval architecture that can be found in Ghent.

The legacy of medieval Ghent is also clearly visible along the Graslei and Korenlei – two historic quays located on either side of the Leie River, right in the heart of the city. The canals are lined with elegant townhouses and guildhalls, many of which date back to the Middle Ages and the 16th to 18th centuries. These buildings are a testament to Ghent’s past as one of the most prosperous cities in Northern Europe. Most of the structures were originally owned by medieval trade guilds or wealthy merchants. The Graslei was traditionally associated with the grain trade, while the Korenlei served as a centre for shipping and storage.