Brussels History. From Medieval Guilds to a Multicultural Capital of Europe

Today’s post is dedicated to a city that I hold in great affection and have had the chance to visit many times. Most often my trips there were work-related, but because they required more than just flying in for a day and heading straight back – sometimes a week, and once even two – I had the opportunity to get to know the city more closely. Until now I have written several posts about specific buildings there, but I have never devoted one to the city itself and its history. Today feels like the right occasion to do so – to rediscover Brussels, the capital city of Belgium and the European Union.

In the 10th century, Charles, Duke of Lower Lorraine, built a fort on Saint-Géry Island where the Senne river was navigable, laying the foundation for Brussels. A turning point came in the late Middle Ages when in the 14th century Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy and youngest son of the French king John II, married Margaret III of Flanders, heiress to vast lands in the Low Countries. Under Philip’s successors, especially Philip the Good, these lands expanded further. By the end of the 15th century, Brussels had become the de facto capital of the Burgundian Netherlands, serving as a residence of the ducal court and a center of administration.

The strategic location of Brussels played a decisive role in shaping its prosperity. Situated on the Senne river, the city became a natural hub for the trade of goods between the wealthy Flemish cities such as Bruges and Ghent, the Rhineland, and regions further afield. Markets flourished, drawing merchants from across Europe who came to exchange products.

Brussels, like many cities in Flanders and Brabant, specialised in the production and trade of textiles, particularly woolen cloth. This industry was not only the backbone of the local economy but also a cornerstone of the medieval European economy. The city’s craftsmen earned a reputation for producing high-quality textiles, which were exported far beyond the Low Countries.

The growth of trade and manufacturing was further stimulated by the presence of the Burgundian and later Habsburg courts. Their demand for luxury goods and fine craftsmanship encouraged the development of diverse industries and services. Brussels also hosted trade fairs, which facilitated the exchange of goods and ideas, linking the city more closely to the wider European economy.

The city’s prosperity relied not only on trade and craftsmanship but also on an organised system of revenue that allowed it to fund infrastructure, fairs, and, eventually, the splendid projects that symbolised its power. Taxes on commerce, levies on goods entering the city, and contributions from wealthy citizens all strengthened the urban treasury.

Within this financial system, the guilds played a decisive role. Organised around specific crafts and trades, they regulated production, ensured the quality of goods, and trained apprentices. But their influence went far beyond economics. Guilds wielded considerable political power, often participating directly in the governance of the city and holding seats in municipal councils.

Some guilds rose to particular prominence. The brewers, whose industry was among the most profitable in Brussels, accumulated vast wealth and influence. The butchers, by maintaining a monopoly on the supply of meat, secured steady income and leverage in urban politics. The cloth weavers and drapers, tied to the textile trade that formed the backbone of the city’s exports, also ranked among the wealthiest and most respected corporations. Even the boatmen, controlling river transport along the Senne, held strategic importance for the flow of goods.

Daily life in medieval Brussels looked rather different for the majority of its inhabitants than for the wealthy guild masters. The narrow streets were crowded and noisy. Artisans worked in open workshops, market traders haggled at stalls, and carts full of goods rolled across the bridges over the Senne. Poorer townsfolk and domestic servants often lived in modest timber houses, vulnerable to fire and disease. Periodic outbreaks of plague, typhus and dysentery swept through the crowded quarters, with the Black Death of the mid-14th century leaving a particularly deep mark on Brussels.

The city’s wealth allowed it to raise splendid and ornate buildings – and its pride was the central square with its magnificent Town Hall, which – despite the turbulence of wars – has survived in an almost unchanged form to this day.

When the last Burgundian duke, Charles the Bold, died in 1477, the Burgundian Netherlands passed to the Habsburg dynasty through the marriage of his daughter, Mary of Burgundy, to Maximilian I of Austria. Under Maximilian I and later Charles V, who was born and raised in the Low Countries, Brussels reached a new peak of prestige. Charles V ruled over a vast empire stretching across Europe and the Americas, and Brussels served as one of his principal residences. The presence of the imperial court attracted nobles, diplomats, merchants, and artists from all over Europe, reinforcing the city’s cosmopolitan character.

The dukes of Burgundy and later the Habsburg sovereigns sought to centralise power and reduce the autonomy of guilds and urban institutions. On the other hand, the guilds resisted any attempt to curtail their privileges. Disputes often arose over taxation or the right to influence city councils. But, both sides recognised their mutual dependence. The rulers needed the wealth of Brussels to sustain their courts and military campaigns, while the guilds relied on princely protection to safeguard trade routes and markets. Still, growing tensions between local privileges and dynastic authority became a defining feature of the period.

Brussels was also a city of languages and culture. In daily life most people spoke Brabantine Dutch. French became increasingly dominant at court and among the nobility. Latin remained the language of administration and scholarship. Merchants from England, Spain, Italy and the German lands added to the city’s cosmopolitan air. Over time, this linguistic divide took on a social meaning. Dutch remained the language of craftsmen and commoners. French became ever more associated with prestige, authority and aristocratic culture.

After Charles V’s abdication (1555–56), the Habsburg realms were divided. The Low Countries passed to Philip II of Spain. Philip pursued a policy of religious uniformity and harsh repression of Protestantism, combined with centralization of power and heavy taxation. In Brussels, as in many Netherlandish cities, Lutheran and later Calvinist communities had begun to take root. In 1566 the wave of riots known as the Beeldenstorm reached the city’s churches. Philip responded by sending troops and by strengthening the Inquisition, which prosecuted heresy with ruthless severity. These measures fueled growing resentment against Spanish rule and erupted into the Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648). Over the following decades, the northern provinces broke away, forming the Union of Utrecht (1579) and laying the foundation of the Dutch Republic.

The southern provinces, however, failed to break away from Spanish control. Strong military garrisons, the success of the Counter-Reformation, and the reluctance of many Catholic elites to join the rebellion kept the south under Habsburg authority. It was this division that gave rise to the Spanish Netherlands, with Brussels as their capital. Brussels remained the administrative and ceremonial heart of the southern provinces. The presence of the governor-general, representing the Spanish Crown, ensured that the city retained prestige, even as its international economic role diminished.

As the capital of the Spanish Netherlands, Brussels retained its importance as a political and administrative centre, but its economic fortunes shifted during the seventeenth century. The long conflict of the Eighty Years’ War had disrupted trade routes and drained resources, weakening the city’s role in international commerce. Brussels was increasingly oriented towards serving the needs of the Spanish court and administration.

Despite these challenges, the city’s economy did not collapse. Luxury industries, such as tapestry weaving, flourished under royal patronage and commissions from European nobility. Brussels’ workshops became famous across the continent for their elaborate wall hangings, which decorated palaces from Madrid to Vienna. The city also continued to profit from regional markets. Agriculture from Brabant and surrounding areas supplied foodstuffs, while traditional crafts like brewing and cloth production remained staples of urban life.

Still, the scale of commerce could no longer rival the dynamism of the Dutch Republic to the north. Brussels’ economic trajectory under Spanish rule thus reflected a shift: from a thriving hub of European trade to a court-driven economy, sustained by the presence of rulers, nobles, and their demand for luxury goods and services.

The seventeenth century was marked by almost constant warfare between the Spanish Habsburgs and France, whose kings sought to expand their influence into the Low Countries. Brussels became a strategic target. The most dramatic moment came in 1695, during the Nine Years’ War (1688–1697). French troops under King Louis XIV launched an attack on Brussels, bombarding the city with heavy artillery. The Grand Place, the pride of the city and the seat of its guilds, was almost entirely destroyed.

The financial strength of Brussels was still so great that the Grand Place was rebuilt in barely five years. The city’s guilds and wealthy citizens financed the reconstruction, each contributing to the splendid facades that today surround the square. The result was not only a rapid recovery from disaster, but also a unique ensemble of late baroque architecture that remains one of Europe’s most celebrated urban landmarks.

In 1701–1714, the War of the Spanish Succession broke out after the death of the last Spanish Habsburg, Charles II, who left no heir. The conflict drew in all of Europe and turned the Low Countries into one of its main theatres. Brussels once again became a contested city. The war ended with the Treaty of Utrecht (1713) and the Spanish Netherlands were transferred to the Austrian Habsburgs. Under Austrian rule in the eighteenth century, Brussels enjoyed relative stability and prosperity. The governors-general, often members of the imperial family, resided in the city. Although Vienna controlled foreign policy and military affairs, the Southern Netherlands retained a degree of autonomy in local governance.

A change came as Emperor Joseph II (1765–1790) tried to modernise administration, limit the power of the Church, and standardise governance across his empire. In the Austrian Netherlands, these reforms clashed with local traditions, privileges, and the autonomy jealously guarded by the provinces. In 1789, resentment boiled over into the Brabant Revolution. Rebels, inspired in part by Enlightenment ideas briefly drove Austrian forces from Brussels and declared the United Belgian States. After a couple of months Austrian troops had already restored control, but shortly after in the 1790s, revolutionary France expanded its wars into the Low Countries.

After the Battle of Fleurus (1794), the Austrian Netherlands, including Brussels, were annexed by France. It was the time of the French Revolution. Brussels became part of the new French administrative system, governed as the chief city of the Département de la Dyle. French rule brought deep changes. Church property was confiscated, monasteries were dissolved, and the traditional privileges of guilds and corporations were abolished. French law, including the Napoleonic Code, replaced local statutes. After Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo (1815), just outside Brussels, the Congress of Vienna created the United Kingdom of the Netherlands under King William I of Orange.

The idea was to unite the northern and southern provinces into a single strong state that could act as a buffer against future French expansion. Brussels became one of the political centres of this new kingdom, alternating with The Hague as a seat of government. Economically, the south (with its industry and wealth) and the north (with its navy and trade) were meant to complement each other. Yet tensions quickly surfaced. Differences in language, religion, and political outlook created growing resentment among the southern provinces. In August 1830, unrest broke out in Brussels, and quickly escalated into a full-scale uprising known as the Belgian Revolution. Brussels was at the heart of the rebellion. After fierce street fighting, Dutch troops withdrew from the city. On 4 October 1830, independence was formally declared. A constitutional monarchy was established, and in 1831 Leopold I was crowned the first King of the Belgians. From that moment on, Brussels became the capital of the independent Kingdom of Belgium, a role it has held ever since.

Under the United Kingdom of the Netherlands (1815–1830), Brussels benefited from investment in trade, infrastructure and industry. The southern provinces were more heavily industrialised than the north, with textiles, mining and metallurgy driving economic growth. Brussels, though not a manufacturing hub itself, thrived as an administrative, financial and cultural centre, drawing strength from its central location. After 1830, independence gave the city a decisive boost. As the capital of the new Belgian state, Brussels became the seat of government, finance and national institutions. The city quickly developed banks, a stock exchange and service industries, consolidating its role as a financial hub.

While Leopold I consolidated the new Belgian state after independence, ensuring its neutrality and stability, his son Leopold II pursued far greater – and far more controversial – ambitions. Frustrated that Belgium itself lacked overseas possessions, he set out to acquire one personally. Through diplomatic manoeuvres, international conferences and the explorations of Henry Morton Stanley, Leopold secured recognition at the Berlin Conference of 1884–85 for his private rule over the Congo Free State (Africa).

Officially presented as a humanitarian and scientific mission, Congo quickly became the foundation of Leopold’s personal fortune, built on the ruthless extraction of rubber, ivory and other resources. With these revenues, he launched an ambitious programme of urban transformation in Brussels. Monumental projects such as the expansion of the Royal Palace, the triumphal arch and park at Cinquantenaire, the creation of the Mont des Arts as a cultural quarter, and the opening of broad new boulevards were all financed by colonial wealth. In this way, the splendour of modern Brussels was inextricably tied to the exploitation of Africa. Profits from the Congo Free State financed monumental building schemes, but in Africa they were extracted through forced labour, violence and exploitation of the local population.

The brutality of Leopold II’s regime provoked growing international outrage, and under pressure the king was forced in 1908 to transfer the territory to the Belgian state. In Brussels, however, colonial power long remained a source of pride, celebrated in museums, exhibitions and monuments. Only in recent decades has the city begun to confront this legacy more critically, acknowledging the suffering that lay behind its golden façades.

At the same time, Brussels became one of the birthplaces of Art Nouveau, a style that transformed the appearance of domestic architecture. Victor Horta, together with architects such as Paul Hankar, designed houses whose flowing lines, floral motifs and ingenious use of light defined an entirely new aesthetic. Many of these masterpieces still stand in Schaerbeek, Ixelles and Saint-Gilles, where elegant façades, stained-glass windows and wrought-iron balconies turn ordinary streets into open-air galleries.

After the death of Leopold II in 1909, Brussels entered a new and turbulent century. Under King Albert I, the city faced the First World War. German troops occupied Brussels (1914–1918), turning the capital into the administrative center of their military regime in Belgium. Daily life was marked by shortages, censorship, and repression, yet the city also became a symbol of quiet resilience. In the interwar years, Brussels recovered, hosting international exhibitions and affirming its cultural prestige. War returned in 1940. Under King Leopold III, the city again fell to German occupation. This period brought hardship and controversy, with the king’s decision to surrender casting a long shadow over post-war politics.

In the decades after the wars, Brussels underwent rapid transformation. The 1950s and 1960s saw a wave of redevelopment known as bruxellisation, when historic houses and entire neighbourhoods were demolished to make way for office blocks, motorways and modern housing estates. While this symbolised ambition and modernity, it also provoked dismay at the loss of heritage. At the same time the city became ever more multilingual and multicultural. Alongside the traditional Dutch-French divide, communities of Italian and Spanish workers arrived, soon followed by migrants from Morocco and Turkey. These new inhabitants contributed greatly to the post-war prosperity of Brussels, shaping the diverse identity of the modern metropolis.

The post-war decades transformed Brussels into the administrative capital of Europe. With the creation of the European Economic Community in 1957, the city was chosen as its provisional seat – a decision that gradually became permanent. Around Place Schuman and Rue de la Loi, the first offices of the new European institutions established a centre of political gravity that would redefine Brussels. From the 1960s onwards, the growing Communities required ever larger headquarters. Their financing came directly from the shared budgets of member states. The construction and expansion of Brussels as a European capital was effectively funded by taxpayers across the continent. This steady flow of European money attracted thousands of civil servants, diplomats, lobbyists, and journalists. Over time, the European quarter became an engine of employment and investment, giving Brussels a new role beyond its national borders. By the late twentieth century, the city had evolved from the capital of Belgium into the political and administrative heart of the European Union.

Today, Brussels is considered one of the most multicultural cities in Europe. First, because of the waves of post-war migration from other continents. Second, because of the presence of countless officials, diplomats and civil servants who have settled here from all across Europe.

Today, Brussels also dazzles architecturally, offering a panorama of styles that reflect its long and complex history. The Grand Place remains one of Europe’s most admired squares, while the Basilica of Koekelberg, a monumental creation in Art Deco style, stands as a twentieth-century landmark. Beyond these, the city reveals its charm in elegant streets, grand boulevards, and carefully planned axes. Outside the dense historic core and the modern European quarter, Brussels continues to surprise visitors with its variety of neighborhoods, where medieval traces, nineteenth-century façades, and modernist experiments coexist in a uniquely layered urban landscape.

Brussels History. From Medieval Guilds to a Multicultural Capital of Europe

Medieval Ghent. Trade, Textiles, and Architecture

Some time ago, I used to travel to Brussels frequently for work. Occasionally, rather than returning home on Friday only to come back Sunday evening or early Monday, I preferred to stay for the weekend. Belgium, being a small and well-connected country, made spontaneous city breaks an easy option. One of the cities I chose to explore was Ghent.

From the train station, a tram takes you directly to the historic centre. I remember getting off the tram and walking just a few dozen metres to the main street of the historical town. It was perhaps the only time I stood in awe on a city street – not because of any modern skyline, but because of the density of high towers from the Middle Ages at one street. It felt astonishingly monumental. As I later discovered, the sequence of prominent buildings includes St Nicholas’ Church, followed by the Belfry, which is adjoined by the Cloth Hall, and finally St Bavo’s Cathedral. All of these monumental structures, as we see them today, were constructed between the 13th and 16th centuries. They were funded by civic authorities, guilds, and the Church, reflecting the city’s wealth and power during the Middle Ages.

Ghent, located in the Flanders region of Belgium, lies approximately halfway between Brussels and Bruges. Its strategic position at the confluence of the Rivers Scheldt and Leie provided a crucial advantage in medieval trade. These waterways enabled efficient transport of goods both inland – the river network extended deep into what is now Belgium, and further towards Germany and France, facilitating trade with interior regions – and towards the coast, connecting Ghent to the North Sea via Bruges. The latter at the time served as the region’s primary maritime hub. This connectivity allowed for flourishing commerce with England, France, and the Hanseatic states. Access to such international trade routes enabled medieval Ghent to thrive as a major commercial centre, laying the foundation for its long-term economic prosperity.

In the 12th century Ghent specialised in cloth industry, especially the production of luxurious woollen textiles. The 14th and 15th centuries are often referred to as Ghent’s Golden Age. At that time, Ghent ranked among the largest and wealthiest cities in northern Europe.

Although medieval Ghent was renowned for its high-quality woollen fabrics, it did not produce wool locally on a large scale – the raw material had to be imported. The most important source of wool was England, particularly from the 13th century onwards. Wool from English sheep, especially from regions such as Lincolnshire and the Cotswolds, was prized for its quality and fibre length, and Ghent, along with the rest of Flanders, was one of its key recipients. As this trade grew in importance, any disruption – such as through political conflicts or embargoes – had serious economic consequences for the city. Wool was also imported from Scotland and Ireland, though to a lesser extent, and later from Spain, especially when merino wool gained popularity (high-quality wool that comes from Merino sheep, a breed originally from Spain but now mostly raised in countries like Australia and New Zealand).

Ghent’s merchants and clothmakers’ guilds operated within a well-developed trade network that ensured a steady supply of imported wool, which was processed in local workshops. The city specialised in the production of woollen cloth, not finished garments. Fabric was Ghent’s export product – garments were typically made elsewhere by local tailors, often to order. This division of labour was typical in the region, with cities like Bruges and Ypres also focusing on textile manufacturing.

Thanks to its reputation for quality, Ghent’s cloth reached elite clients across Europe. The French royal court was among its most prestigious customers, particularly during periods when fashion and frequent changes of attire were used to express wealth, status, and political power. Other buyers included the nobility, wealthy merchants, and church institutions from the Holy Roman Empire, the Iberian Peninsula, northern Italy, and the Hanseatic cities. In this way, Ghent’s textile industry not only sustained local prosperity but also shaped European fashion and material culture.

Although medieval Ghent never became a banking powerhouse on the scale of Florence or Venice, the growth of international trade encouraged the emergence of financial institutions serving both local merchants and foreign traders. By the 14th century, Ghent was home mainly to local moneychangers, who facilitated currency exchange and provided deposit services. Their role was essential at a time when Europe’s fragmented monetary systems required frequent conversions. However, unlike Bruges, where Italian bankers had a strong presence, Ghent attracted relatively few foreign banking houses. The absence of public exchange banks in Flemish cities such as Ghent is often seen as a historical anomaly, particularly given the otherwise dynamic development of finance in the region. Nevertheless, Ghent’s entrepreneurs made use of financial services available in other Flemish cities like Bruges and, later, Antwerp, which eventually became more prominent banking centres. It is also worth noting that the evolution of finance in the region was closely linked to the textile trade – many cloth merchants engaged directly in financial operations, a common practice of the time.

Ghent was a city with a high degree of autonomy – it had its own self-government, the right to mint coins, to create local laws, and to maintain its own municipal courts. Although it was formally under the authority of the Count of Flanders (and later the Dukes of Burgundy), it often pursued an independent policy, and its citizens fiercely defended their privileges, even by force if necessary. Wealthy merchants and master craftsmen played an active role in governing the city. In many cases, they formed the town council (council of elders or city council), which made decisions on the most important matters. The guilds had their own regulations, courts, and penalties, giving them a high level of independence within the city’s legal system. Cloth producers in Ghent were granted exclusive rights by the city authorities to manufacture and sell cloth within the city. This protected them from outside competition and ensured a stable income. The cloth guilds supervised the quality of the goods produced. As a result, Flemish cloth gained great prestige in foreign markets, especially in England, France, and Italy. Ghent’s merchants were often exempt from customs duties or enjoyed reduced rates, in exchange for loyalty to the authorities or financial support to the city.

Ghent’s prominence began to decline in the late 16th century, due to a combination of economic, political, and cultural shifts that reshaped trade across the Low Countries.

During the 14th and 16th centuries, the Count of Flanders attempted to exert greater control over the city and its thriving textile industry. The citizens of Ghent – particularly the powerful guilds – resisted these efforts, rising up in a series of revolts that led to periods of open conflict. The most famous of these was the Ghent Uprising of 1539–1540, a direct challenge to Emperor Charles V. At the heart of the rebellion was Ghent’s refusal to pay the high taxes imposed by Charles V to finance his wars. The city, proud of its long-standing privileges and autonomy, demanded that its historic rights be respected and firmly opposed imperial intervention. In response, Charles V acted with force. In 1540, he marched into Ghent with his troops, crushed the uprising, and subjected the city to a public and symbolic humiliation. The city’s leaders were forced to appear barefoot and dressed in shirts to beg for the emperor’s pardon. While the revolt did not cause the immediate downfall of Ghent, it had severe and lasting consequences. The city lost many of its medieval privileges, including its judicial and administrative autonomy. The influence of the guilds and municipal councils was drastically reduced. Charles V also ordered the construction of a fortress – the Spanjaardenkasteel (Castle of the Spaniards) – to keep the population under close watch. In addition, Ghent was burdened with heavy fines and taxes.

A major factor was the silting of the waterways leading to Bruges, which disrupted one of Ghent’s key maritime links.

At the same time, the region was engulfed in the Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648), a conflict that caused widespread instability, religious tensions, and the fragmentation of commercial networks. The Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648) was a revolt by the Dutch provinces against Spanish rule, driven by religious tensions, heavy taxation, and a desire for independence. It ended with the Treaty of Westphalia, which recognized the Dutch Republic as a sovereign nation, marking the birth of the modern Netherlands, and later also Belgium.

By the 17th century, changing fashion trends across Europe further undermined Ghent’s traditional textile dominance. The rise in popularity of silk, velvet, and other luxury fabrics -often imported from Italy, the Ottoman Empire, and Asia – gradually displaced the central role of woollen cloth in elite wardrobes. While Ghent retained its status as an important regional textile centre, its position in the luxury fashion market declined as the European aristocracy sought new symbols of prestige.

Meanwhile, Antwerp rose to become the new economic powerhouse of the Low Countries. With a deep-water port and stronger access to the North Sea, Antwerp attracted international merchants and became a major hub for trade, finance, and shipping. As a result, Ghent found itself bypassed by key maritime routes and lost much of its earlier global significance. Though it remained active in local commerce and retained some of its industrial base, Ghent never regained the international stature it had enjoyed during its Golden Age.

The wealth generated from trade and industry enabled Ghent to invest generously in its architectural heritage.

The first building that catches your eye when stepping off the tram in Ghent’s historic centre is St Nicholas’ Church. It is one of the city’s oldest surviving churches. Construction began in the early 13th century, replacing an earlier Romanesque structure. St. Nicholas was the patron saint of merchants and sailors, which made this church especially significant in Ghent, a thriving centre of trade and commerce. St Nicholas’ Church was largely funded by wealthy merchant guilds, particularly those involved in the cloth and grain trades. It served as their parish church

The church stood right at the heart of the old market district, surrounded by guildhalls and merchant houses. Its central lantern tower, positioned directly over the crossing of the nave and transept once served as a watchtower. Throughout its history, the church experienced decline, especially during the French Revolution when it was deconsecrated and used as a stable and warehouse. In the 19th and 20th centuries, it underwent major restoration efforts to preserve its Gothic character.

Behind the St. Nicolas’ church you will notice another high building. The Belfry of Ghent is a bell tower constructed in the 14th century. The Belfry of Ghent was commissioned and funded by the city government as a symbol of municipal autonomy and civic pride. Its bells used to warn citizens of danger or summon them for important occasions. At 91 metres, it is the tallest belfry in Belgium. One of its most distinctive features is the gilded copper dragon perched on the spire. Originally it was placed in 1377 as a weathervane and guardian of the city. Several older versions of the dragon are preserved and displayed within the tower. The Belfry is also home to a carillon of 54 bells, which still plays melodies across the city. Attached to the Belfry is a smaller building known as the Mammelokker, once used as a guardroom. Historically, the tower also served as a secure place to store important civic documents, including charters and privileges.

The Belfry of Ghent is open to visitors, including exhibitions and the famous carillon. Most of the ascent can be made by lift, but to access the top viewing platform and enjoy the panoramic view of the city, the final section must be climbed on foot.

The Cloth Hall, a lower but spledid building situated next to the Belfry, reflects the central role that textile production and trade played in the city’s economic and civic life. It was financed by the textile guilds, particularly the powerful cloth-makers of Ghent Construction began in 1425 and continued until 1445, although only seven of the originally planned eleven bays were completed at the time. The hall was intended to serve as a regulated marketplace for woollen cloth, where textiles were inspected, measured, and traded, ensuring quality control in a thriving international market. Ironically, the building was erected just as Ghent’s cloth industry began to decline, due to shifting trade routes and growing foreign competition. The unfinished sections were eventually completed in the early 20th century, finally realising the medieval vision of its full architectural design.

Following its original commercial use, the Cloth Hall was repurposed for various civic functions. From 1613, it housed the city’s fencing school and served as the headquarters of the Guild of Saint Michael. Later, between 1742 and 1902, its crypt functioned as the city prison, accessible through the Mammelokker, a Rococo-style annex added in 1741 (compare photos above). Today, the Cloth Hall is home to a museum dedicated to the Guild of Saint Michael, preserving the memory of Ghent’s martial and mercantile traditions.

Another striking landmark on Ghent’s skyline is St Bavo’s Cathedral, a Gothic edifice that stands on the site of a much older church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, consecrated in 942. This early structure was replaced in the mid-12th century by a Romanesque church, and over time, the cathedral evolved into the Gothic building we see today, developed mainly between the 14th and 16th centuries. Following the Ghent Uprising under the orders of Emperor Charles V, the Saint Bavo’s Abbey existent in Ghent for centuries was dissolved and much of the abbey was demolished and repurposed as military barracks. The abbot and monks were secularised and granted the title of canon. Their chapter was transferred to Saint John’s Church, which from that point forward became known as Saint Bavo’s Church. It was funded by the Catholic Church, with substantial contributions from local nobility and clergy. When the Diocese of Ghent was established in 1559, this church was elevated to cathedral status and officially became St Bavo’s Cathedral.

Saint Bavo was a 7th-century Frankish nobleman who became a monk and later a hermit after a religious conversion. Born around 589 into a wealthy family, he led a worldly and indulgent life as a knight until the death of his wife, which prompted him to renounce his possessions and dedicate himself to faith. He distributed his wealth to the poor, entered a monastery in Ghent, and eventually lived as a hermit in the forest. He died around 654 and was later venerated as a saint. Saint Bavo is the patron saint of Ghent

St Bavo’s is best known as the home of the world-famous Adoration of the Mystic Lamb by the Van Eyck brothers. This 15th-century altarpiece is considered one of the masterpieces of European art and a cornerstone of the Flemish Renaissance. The cathedral also houses The Conversion of St Bavo by Peter Paul Rubens, along with beautifully ornate altars, the tombs of former bishops, and a grand Baroque organ.

As the seat of the Bishop of Ghent, the cathedral remains the central place of worship in the diocese. It is open to the public, with free access to the main church. Entry to view the original Ghent Altarpiece in its chapel requires a ticket.

The buildings described above are by no means the only gems of medieval architecture that can be found in Ghent.

The legacy of medieval Ghent is also clearly visible along the Graslei and Korenlei – two historic quays located on either side of the Leie River, right in the heart of the city. The canals are lined with elegant townhouses and guildhalls, many of which date back to the Middle Ages and the 16th to 18th centuries. These buildings are a testament to Ghent’s past as one of the most prosperous cities in Northern Europe. Most of the structures were originally owned by medieval trade guilds or wealthy merchants. The Graslei was traditionally associated with the grain trade, while the Korenlei served as a centre for shipping and storage.

Medieval Ghent. Trade, Textiles, and Architecture

A Quick Guide to the History of the Netherlands

When traveling, especially when we are focused on a lot of sightseeing, it’s worth getting acquainted with the history of the country to understand what we see. Below a quick overview on the history of the Netherlands or in English the Low Countries.

In ancient times, the area now known as the Netherlands was part of the Roman province of Germania Inferior. The northern territories remained largely outside Roman control. They were inhabited by various Germanic tribes. As the Roman Empire declined, the region experienced significant political fragmentation and waves of migration. The vacuum left by the Romans was filled by the Merovingian-ruled Frankish Kingdom, integrating the Netherlands into their territories. Missionaries like Saint Willibrord and Saint Boniface played crucial roles in converting the local pagan tribes to Christianity, laying the foundation for a unified cultural and religious identity.

A mural Charlemagne and Einhard by Georg Sturm that can be seen at the West side of the Great Hall of Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

As Charlemagne did not appoint a single successor but divided the Kingdom among his sons, after the split of the Frankish Kingdom, the Netherlands became part of East Francia, the precursor to modern Germany. The 9th and 10th centuries were marked by turmoil and Viking raids, prompting the construction of fortified towns and defensive structures. The central authority of East Francia weakened, leading to the rise of feudalism. Local lords, counts, and dukes gained more power and autonomy, governing their own territories. The Low Countries saw the emergence of several important counties and duchies, such as the County of Flanders, the Duchy of Brabant, and the County of Holland. These entities played a significant role in regional politics and economics. Increased trade and economic activity led to the growth of cities. Important medieval cities included Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp in Flanders (today Belgium), as well as Utrecht and Dordrecht in the northern provinces.

Historic city of Ghent, today in Belgium

In the 14th and 15th centuries, the Low Countries came under the influence of the Duchy of Burgundy. Through a series of marriages, inheritances, and political manoeuvres, the Burgundian dukes, notably Philip the Good and Charles the Bold, consolidated control over most of the region. The Burgundian period saw efforts to centralise administration and strengthen ducal authority. The marriage of Mary of Burgundy to Maximilian I of Austria in 1477 brought the Burgundian Netherlands under the control of the Habsburg dynasty. Their son, Philip the Handsome, married Joanna of Castile, linking the Low Countries to the Spanish crown. The most significant Habsburg ruler in he history of the Netherlands was Charles V, who inherited the region in 1506. Under his rule, the Netherlands became part of the vast Habsburg Empire, which included Spain, the Holy Roman Empire, and various other territories.

When Charles V abdicated in 1556, his son Philip II inherited the Spanish crown and the Netherlands. Philip II’s reign marked the beginning of a difficult and oppressive period for the Dutch. His centralised and authoritarian approach clashed with the relatively autonomous and pluralistic traditions of the Low Countries. Philip II was a staunch Catholic and sought to enforce religious uniformity across his empire. The introduction of the Spanish Inquisition aimed to root out Protestantism, which was rapidly gaining followers. The Inquisition’s brutal methods, including torture and execution, sparked widespread fear and resentment marking a dark period in the history of the Netherlands.

In addition to religious oppression, Philip II’s heavy taxation and centralised control over local affairs exacerbated tensions. The wealth generated by Dutch trade and commerce was increasingly diverted to support Spain’s wars and imperial ambitions, leading to economic hardships in the Netherlands. The nobility and merchant class, who had traditionally enjoyed a degree of self-governance, found their privileges under threat. In 1568, this discontent ignited the Dutch Revolt, marking the start of a prolonged struggle for independence. The northern provinces rebelled against Spanish rule, leading to the Eighty Years’ War. In 1581, the northern provinces declared independence, leading to the formation of the Dutch Republic. By the end of the 1580s, however, Spanish control was largely re-established in the southern provinces (forming the so-called Spanish Netherlands). These southern regions remained under Habsburg rule and staunchly Catholic, contrasting sharply with the Protestant-dominated northern provinces.

This division resulted in significant socio-economic shifts. The mass migration of skilled labour and merchants from the south to the north fuelled the economic rise of cities like Amsterdam, transforming them into major commercial hubs. Meanwhile, southern cities like Antwerp experienced economic decline as they lost their economic vitality. The consolidation of Spanish control in the southern provinces and the independence of the northern provinces led to the emergence of two distinct entities. The Southern Netherlands, under Habsburg rule, retained its Catholic identity, while the northern Dutch Republic thrived as a centre of Protestantism and trade. This division laid the foundation for the modern distinction between the Netherlands and Belgium.

During the Middle Ages, the Netherlands developed several key sources of wealth that contributed to its economic growth and prosperity. The regions of Flanders and Holland, had fertile soil ideal for agriculture. This allowed for the production of various crops, including grains, vegetables, and flax. The production of dairy products, especially cheese and butter, became a significant source of income, as well. Flanders became renowned for its wool and cloth production. The region imported raw wool from England and produced high-quality textiles that were exported across Europe. The development of sophisticated weaving techniques and the establishment of guilds helped to enhance the quality and reputation of Dutch textiles. The herring fishery was a crucial industry for the Dutch economy. Innovations in fishing techniques and preservation, such as gutting and brining herring at sea, allowed Dutch fishermen to dominate the North Sea herring trade. The coastal and inland waters also provided other fish varieties, contributing to the local diet and trade.

The prosperity from trade and commerce led to the development of early banking and financial systems. Cities like Bruges and Antwerp became financial hubs where merchants could secure loans and conduct business. Craft and merchant guilds played a vital role in regulating trade, maintaining quality standards, and protecting the interests of their members. These organizations helped to foster economic stability and growth throughout the history of the Netherlands.

The restored Van der Beurse family house in Bruges that replaced the original Three Purses tavern, where the first usances of echange trading had been developed.

Many Dutch cities were members of the Hanseatic League or traded with the Hanseatic League cities, a powerful economic and defensive alliance of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe. Key ports included Bruges, which thrived as a central hub of the Hanseatic League in the region and an early financial centre; Antwerp, which grew into one of Europe’s largest markets and financial hubs by the 15th century (officially was never a member of the Hanseatic League); and Ghent, renowned for its influential textile industry and strategic river location. Amsterdam began emerging as an important trading city with its fishing and maritime trade, while Dordrecht played a crucial role in inland trade and shipping. Additionally, Kampen and Middelburg were significant Hanseatic ports, engaging in extensive Baltic and North Sea trade. These ports facilitated the flow of goods such as textiles, spices, wine, and timber, laying the foundation for the Low Countries’ later dominance in global trade. During the Middle Ages, Rotterdam, which is the biggest maritime port at present, was not yet the major port city it is today, but it did begin to establish itself as an important regional trading hub by the late medieval period. Initially founded around 1270 when a dam was constructed on the Rotte River, Rotterdam gradually developed due to its strategic location near the confluence of major waterways. By the 14th century, it had received city rights and began to grow more significantly.

Historic city of Bruges, today in Belgium

The Dutch played a crucial role in the Age of Exploration, seeking new trade routes and territories. Explorers like Willem Barentsz ventured into the Arctic, while others navigated the coasts of Africa, Asia, and the Americas. These voyages not only expanded geographical knowledge but also laid the groundwork for future colonial endeavours. Founded in 1602, the Dutch East India Company became the world’s first multinational corporation and the driving force behind Dutch colonial expansion. The company established trading posts and colonies across Asia, including present-day Indonesia, India, and Japan. The control over the spice trade brought immense wealth to the Netherlands, but it also involved exploitative practices and conflicts with indigenous populations. The Dutch West India Company, established in 1621, focused on the Atlantic world, particularly the Americas and West Africa. The company’s activities included the transatlantic slave trade, which had devastating effects on African societies. Dutch colonies in the Caribbean and South America, such as Suriname and New Amsterdam (modern-day New York City), were integral to the WIC’s operations. The colonialism although a source of country’s wealth is one of doubtful events in the history of the Netherlands.

The Home Fleet Saluting the State Barge by Jan van de Cappelle on dispplay at Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

The 17th century, known as the Dutch Golden Age, was a period of unparalleled economic and cultural flourishing. The Netherlands became a leading maritime power, dominating global trade and establishing a vast colonial empire. The Dutch fleet, renowned for its innovation and efficiency, became the backbone of the nation’s prosperity. Amsterdam emerged as a global financial centre, with the establishment of the Amsterdam Stock Exchange and the development of advanced financial instruments. Dutch merchants traded goods such as spices, silk, and precious metals, making the Netherlands one of the wealthiest nations in Europe.

The Golden Age was also a time of remarkable cultural achievements. Unlike in many other parts of Europe where the church and aristocracy were the primary patrons of the arts, in the Dutch Republic, wealthy merchants and the burgeoning middle class became the main sponsors. Their prosperity, derived from trade, finance, and industry, allowed them to invest in art. These patrons often commissioned works to decorate their homes, leading to the growth of private art collections. This demand encouraged artists to produce a wide variety of works, including portraits, landscapes, still lifes, and genre scenes.

The 18th century marked a period of relative decline in the history of the Netherlands. The nation’s economic and naval power waned as rival powers, particularly Britain and France, rose to prominence. Internal political struggles and external conflicts, such as the War of the Spanish Succession and the Fourth Anglo-Dutch War, further weakened the Dutch Republic.

The late 18th century saw the rise of revolutionary sentiments across Europe. In 1795, inspired by the French Revolution, the Batavian Republic was established, replacing the Dutch Republic. However, this new republic soon fell under French influence, leading to the incorporation of the Netherlands into the Napoleonic Empire. The period of French control brought significant administrative and social reforms. After the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, the Congress of Vienna established the Kingdom of the Netherlands, uniting the northern and southern provinces. King William I sought to modernise the country, promoting industrialisation and infrastructure development. However, tensions between the Dutch-speaking north and the French-speaking south led to the Belgian Revolution in 1830, resulting in the independence of Belgium.

A relief depicting the Belgian revolution on the Patria monument in Brussels, Belgium.

The 19th century witnessed significant industrialisation in the history of the Netherlands. The expansion of railways, the development of new industries, and urbanisation transformed the Dutch economy and society. Social movements advocating for workers’ rights, women’s suffrage, and education reforms gained momentum, leading to gradual but important changes in Dutch society.

The Netherlands maintained a policy of neutrality during the First World War, avoiding the widespread destruction that affected much of Europe. Despite its neutrality, the war had significant economic and social impacts, including food shortages and refugee influxes. The Second World War brought unprecedented challenges to the Netherlands in the history of the Netherlands. In May 1940, Nazi Germany invaded, leading to five years of occupation. After the Second World War, the Netherlands embarked on a period of reconstruction and recovery. The Marshall Plan and domestic efforts helped rebuild the economy, leading to a period of rapid growth. The Netherlands became a founding member of key international organisations, including NATO and the European Union.

Modern history of the Netherlands is also about land reclamation. The country has reclaimed approximately 7,000 square kilometers of land from the sea and other bodies of water. Significant reclamation projects include the creation of Flevoland, the largest artificial island in the world, encompassing around 970 square kilometers of land reclaimed from the IJsselmeer as part of the Zuiderzee Works. The Noordoostpolder added another 460 square kilometers to the country. The Delta Works project, while primarily focused on flood protection, also facilitated the reclamation of land in the southwestern Netherlands, such as the reclamation of the island of Goeree-Overflakkee. These efforts have transformed the Dutch landscape, increasing the country’s total land area and enabling the development of fertile agricultural fields, all while pioneering innovative techniques in water management.

Rotterdam city centre. Rotterdam was severely damaged during WWII. A decision was made not to reconstruct its historical town but to structure the city from scratch.

A Quick Guide to the History of the Netherlands