In the very heart of Bari, not far from the seafront and the narrow lanes of the old town, stands the imposing Norman-Swabian Castle. Although it isn’t among the region’s most visited landmarks, its history and architecture are well worth exploring – especially if you’re drawn to places with character and soul.

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Bari is a city in Apulia, southern Italy. I spent a few days there, exploring both on foot and by car, driving in and out through the more modern parts of the city, which gave me a decent overview of its structure. Aside from contemporary districts, Bari it is historic centre, which can be divided into two clearly distinct areas. The first, Bari Vecchia, is the medieval quarter, with narrow alleyways, an old cathedral, and a castle. The second Quartiere Murat features a more neoclassical look, typical of many Italian towns. Its main artery is Corso Cavour, an avenue named in honour of the first prime minister of a united Italy.

Today’s post is dedicated to the castle. It is known as the Norman-Swabian Castle (Castello Normanno-Svevo di Bari), named after its historical ties to two powerful dynasties: the Normans and the Swabians (Hohenstaufen).

The Castle’s History

The castle was originally built around 1132 by King Roger II of the Normans, on the foundations of earlier Byzantine structures. It was intended to serve as a defensive fortress and a symbol of Norman rule in Apulia. The Normans, who hailed from Normandy in northern France, were descendants of Vikings who had settled there in the 10th century. In the 11th century, some of them – mainly as mercenaries – began arriving in southern Italy and Sicily, taking advantage of local conflicts among Byzantines, Arabs, the Papacy, and local rulers. Over time, under the leadership of the Hauteville family (notably Robert Guiscard and Roger II), they conquered Apulia, Calabria, Naples, and Sicily. In 1130, Roger II crowned himself King of Sicily, establishing a kingdom that encompassed much of southern Italy.

In the mid-12th century, Bari often rebelled against central Norman authority. In 1155, backed by the Byzantine Empire, the city rose up against William I, son of Roger II. In retaliation, the king ordered the destruction of the city walls and the castle – an act of repression and a demonstration of power against local dissent. Around a century later, following the takeover of the Kingdom of Sicily by the Hohenstaufen dynasty, the castle was rebuilt by Emperor Frederick II, son of Constance, daughter of Roger II. The reconstruction, carried out between 1233 and 1240, gave the castle its characteristic trapezoidal layout, with a central courtyard, massive corner towers, and a moat (except on the northern side, which bordered the sea).

In the 13th century, following the death of Frederick II and the fall of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, Bari came under the control of the Angevins, and from 1442, the Aragonese, as part of the Kingdom of Naples. During this period, the castle underwent gradual transformations – especially in the Renaissance era, when Isabella of Aragon and her daughter Bona Sforza transformed it into an elegant residence. A monumental staircase, chapel, and courtly interiors were added. In 1504, Bari fell under the rule of the Spanish Habsburgs. In 1696, a lightning strike hit one of the castle’s towers, igniting stored gunpowder and causing a major explosion that damaged both the castle and surrounding buildings.

After the War of the Spanish Succession, Bari came briefly under Austrian rule in 1707, and from 1734 became part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, ruled by the Bourbon dynasty. During this time, the castle lost its residential status and was used as a prison and military barracks. In 1861, following the unification of Italy, Bari and its castle were incorporated into the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.

A popular legend is linked to the castle, involving Saint Francis of Assisi. During his journey to the Holy Land, he is said to have stopped in Bari, where Emperor Frederick II tested him by placing him in a tower with a young woman. Francis resisted the temptation, and the tower became known as the Monk’s Tower or Tower of Saint Francis.

The Castle’s Exterior and Interior

Architecturally, the castle is defined by its massive stone structure, characteristic of medieval fortifications, designed to impress and defend. It is surrounded by a dry moat, once serving as an additional protective barrier, and accessed via a bridge that leads to the main gate. The layout follows a trapezoidal plan, with four sturdy corner towers framing a spacious central courtyard.

Yo can see the blend of architectural styles, reflecting the layers of history embedded in its walls. The robust Norman foundations are complemented by Swabian modifications combining military precision with elegant form. Gothic windows and arches soften a bit the austere structure, while later Renaissance additions give it a touch of refinement.

Exterior and interior views of the castle reveal the passage of time and a mix of architectural styles. The central courtyard feels rather bare, but it’s worth remembering this was originally a fortress, only later adapted during the Renaissance. The castle is largely unfurnished, with a few multimedia installations aiming to evoke its past

That said, much of the structure remains closed to the public due to ongoing restoration work. During my visit, I had the distinct impression that not everything has yet been unveiled — parts of the castle feel hidden or inaccessible, and some spaces could be better presented to help visitors connect with the site’s layered past. The inner courtyard, though spacious, felt somewhat stark and empty, offering little to linger over. With its few windows and fortress-like interiors, the castle clearly functioned more as a stronghold than a residence. Perhaps in the future, once renovations are complete, more of the building’s potential will be revealed.

Today, the Norman-Swabian Castle of Bari serves as a museum and cultural centre, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and artistic events. On the ground floor, visitors can explore collections of sculpture, ceramics, and archaeological finds – some original, others cast replicas. From an upper upper gallery at the ground floor, visitors can view archaeological excavations in the lower levels of the castle. The interior is sparsely furnished, with only a few pieces on display. However, visitors can walk through the chambers and along the defensive walls, where several rooms feature historical multimedia projections. The site also houses a Gipsoteca, a plaster cast museum displaying Romanesque art from Apulia, including details from the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari and the Cathedral of Trani.

A few examples of the plaster casts on display in the Gipsoteca inside Bari’s castle.

When I visited the castle in late 2023, one of the halls featured a visual narrative on the life of Queen Bona. Who was Bona? She was the granddaughter of Alfonso II of Aragon, King of Naples, through her mother, Isabella of Aragon. In 1518, after marrying King Sigismund I the Old of Poland, she was granted Bari and Rossano as a fiefdom by Emperor Charles V. Although she spent most of her life in Poland, the castle in Bari remained part of her hereditary estate. She managed her Italian holdings and played an active role in administering the castle and surrounding lands. Both Bona and her mother transformed the fortress into a Renaissance residence, adding a monumental staircase and chapel. During this period, the castle became the seat of a refined court blending Italian and Polish influences. Bona’s legacy in Bari is so profound that her sarcophagus was placed above the altar in the nearby Basilica of Saint Nicholas (Basilica di San Nicola).

Scenes from the multimedia presentation on Queen Bona, featuring her elegant Renaissance dresses and her significant political role as Queen of Poland.

The Norman-Swabian castle of Bari is not yet a fully curated museum space, but its structure, setting, and historical significance remain an integral part of the old town’s landscape.