A Quiet Encounter with History. Visiting Bari’s Norman-Swabian Castle

2025 By justmovingaround in ITALY, Sightseeing Tags: Bari, Bona Sforza, Italy, Medieval, Norman-Swabian Castle

In the very heart of Bari, not far from the seafront and the narrow lanes of the old town, stands the imposing Norman-Swabian Castle. Although it isn’t among the region’s most visited landmarks, its history and architecture are well worth exploring – especially if you’re drawn to places with character and soul.

Bari is a city in Apulia, southern Italy. I spent a few days there, exploring both on foot and by car, driving in and out through the more modern parts of the city, which gave me a decent overview of its structure. Aside from contemporary districts, Bari it is historic centre, which can be divided into two clearly distinct areas. The first, Bari Vecchia, is the medieval quarter, with narrow alleyways, an old cathedral, and a castle. The second Quartiere Murat features a more neoclassical look, typical of many Italian towns. Its main artery is Corso Cavour, an avenue named in honour of the first prime minister of a united Italy.

Today’s post is dedicated to the castle. It is known as the Norman-Swabian Castle (Castello Normanno-Svevo di Bari), named after its historical ties to two powerful dynasties: the Normans and the Swabians (Hohenstaufen).

The Castle’s History

The castle was originally built around 1132 by King Roger II of the Normans, on the foundations of earlier Byzantine structures. It was intended to serve as a defensive fortress and a symbol of Norman rule in Apulia. The Normans, who hailed from Normandy in northern France, were descendants of Vikings who had settled there in the 10th century. In the 11th century, some of them – mainly as mercenaries – began arriving in southern Italy and Sicily, taking advantage of local conflicts among Byzantines, Arabs, the Papacy, and local rulers. Over time, under the leadership of the Hauteville family (notably Robert Guiscard and Roger II), they conquered Apulia, Calabria, Naples, and Sicily. In 1130, Roger II crowned himself King of Sicily, establishing a kingdom that encompassed much of southern Italy.

In the mid-12th century, Bari often rebelled against central Norman authority. In 1155, backed by the Byzantine Empire, the city rose up against William I, son of Roger II. In retaliation, the king ordered the destruction of the city walls and the castle – an act of repression and a demonstration of power against local dissent. Around a century later, following the takeover of the Kingdom of Sicily by the Hohenstaufen dynasty, the castle was rebuilt by Emperor Frederick II, son of Constance, daughter of Roger II. The reconstruction, carried out between 1233 and 1240, gave the castle its characteristic trapezoidal layout, with a central courtyard, massive corner towers, and a moat (except on the northern side, which bordered the sea).

In the 13th century, following the death of Frederick II and the fall of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, Bari came under the control of the Angevins, and from 1442, the Aragonese, as part of the Kingdom of Naples. During this period, the castle underwent gradual transformations – especially in the Renaissance era, when Isabella of Aragon and her daughter Bona Sforza transformed it into an elegant residence. A monumental staircase, chapel, and courtly interiors were added. In 1504, Bari fell under the rule of the Spanish Habsburgs. In 1696, a lightning strike hit one of the castle’s towers, igniting stored gunpowder and causing a major explosion that damaged both the castle and surrounding buildings.

After the War of the Spanish Succession, Bari came briefly under Austrian rule in 1707, and from 1734 became part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, ruled by the Bourbon dynasty. During this time, the castle lost its residential status and was used as a prison and military barracks. In 1861, following the unification of Italy, Bari and its castle were incorporated into the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.

A popular legend is linked to the castle, involving Saint Francis of Assisi. During his journey to the Holy Land, he is said to have stopped in Bari, where Emperor Frederick II tested him by placing him in a tower with a young woman. Francis resisted the temptation, and the tower became known as the Monk’s Tower or Tower of Saint Francis.

The Castle’s Exterior and Interior

Architecturally, the castle is defined by its massive stone structure, characteristic of medieval fortifications, designed to impress and defend. It is surrounded by a dry moat, once serving as an additional protective barrier, and accessed via a bridge that leads to the main gate. The layout follows a trapezoidal plan, with four sturdy corner towers framing a spacious central courtyard.

Yo can see the blend of architectural styles, reflecting the layers of history embedded in its walls. The robust Norman foundations are complemented by Swabian modifications combining military precision with elegant form. Gothic windows and arches soften a bit the austere structure, while later Renaissance additions give it a touch of refinement.

Norman-Swabian Castle, Bari, Italy | Castello Normanno-Svevo, Bari, Italia | Château normand-souabe de Bari, Italie | Normannisch-staufische Burg, Bari, Italien | Castillo normando-suabo, Bari, Italia | Zamek normańsko-szwabski w Bari, Włochy | Норманно-Швабский замок, Бари, Италия | 巴里诺曼-施瓦本城堡，意大利 | バーリのノルマン・シュヴァーベン城

Exterior and interior views of the castle reveal the passage of time and a mix of architectural styles. The central courtyard feels rather bare, but it’s worth remembering this was originally a fortress, only later adapted during the Renaissance. The castle is largely unfurnished, with a few multimedia installations aiming to evoke its past

That said, much of the structure remains closed to the public due to ongoing restoration work. During my visit, I had the distinct impression that not everything has yet been unveiled — parts of the castle feel hidden or inaccessible, and some spaces could be better presented to help visitors connect with the site’s layered past. The inner courtyard, though spacious, felt somewhat stark and empty, offering little to linger over. With its few windows and fortress-like interiors, the castle clearly functioned more as a stronghold than a residence. Perhaps in the future, once renovations are complete, more of the building’s potential will be revealed.

Today, the Norman-Swabian Castle of Bari serves as a museum and cultural centre, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and artistic events. On the ground floor, visitors can explore collections of sculpture, ceramics, and archaeological finds – some original, others cast replicas. From an upper upper gallery at the ground floor, visitors can view archaeological excavations in the lower levels of the castle. The interior is sparsely furnished, with only a few pieces on display. However, visitors can walk through the chambers and along the defensive walls, where several rooms feature historical multimedia projections. The site also houses a Gipsoteca, a plaster cast museum displaying Romanesque art from Apulia, including details from the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari and the Cathedral of Trani.

A few examples of the plaster casts on display in the Gipsoteca inside Bari’s castle.

When I visited the castle in late 2023, one of the halls featured a visual narrative on the life of Queen Bona. Who was Bona? She was the granddaughter of Alfonso II of Aragon, King of Naples, through her mother, Isabella of Aragon. In 1518, after marrying King Sigismund I the Old of Poland, she was granted Bari and Rossano as a fiefdom by Emperor Charles V. Although she spent most of her life in Poland, the castle in Bari remained part of her hereditary estate. She managed her Italian holdings and played an active role in administering the castle and surrounding lands. Both Bona and her mother transformed the fortress into a Renaissance residence, adding a monumental staircase and chapel. During this period, the castle became the seat of a refined court blending Italian and Polish influences. Bona’s legacy in Bari is so profound that her sarcophagus was placed above the altar in the nearby Basilica of Saint Nicholas (Basilica di San Nicola).

Scenes from the multimedia presentation on Queen Bona, featuring her elegant Renaissance dresses and her significant political role as Queen of Poland.

The Norman-Swabian castle of Bari is not yet a fully curated museum space, but its structure, setting, and historical significance remain an integral part of the old town’s landscape.

BARI photo gallery

A Quiet Encounter with History. Visiting Bari’s Norman-Swabian Castle

Bona Sforza

2024 By justmovingaround in History, ITALY, POLAND Tags: Bari, historic figure, Italy, Jagiellonians, Poland, Polish history, politics

Italian by birth, Polish by destiny – Bona Sforza, the ambitious princess from Milan, brought Renaissance flair to the Jagiellonian court and left a lasting mark on Poland’s politics, economy, and even its cuisine. Her life was a tale of power, ambition, and influence – stretching from Milan to Kraków, and ending in a mysterious death in Bari.

Bari is a city that is heard of in Poland from early childhood history lessons. In this city, one of the most influential queens in Polish history, Bona Sforza, was living before and after her stay in Poland. She became the Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania through her marriage to Sigismund I of Poland. It was only while staying with an Italian family near Bari that I learned that Bona Sforza was a significant figure in Bari, as well. Furthermore, that her modest sarcophagus is placed on the altar in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

From Milan to Cracow

Born 1494, in Milan, Italy, she was the daughter of Gian Galeazzo Sforza, Duke of Milan, and Isabella of Naples. Bona’s family, the Sforzas, were one of the leading families in Italy. Her childhood was affected by the political turmoil involving her family. The Sforza family’s power in Milan was contested. Her father died under mysterious circumstances when Bona was just a child. Soon after her father’s death, Duchess Isabella moved with her daughters to Bari. Bona’s Renaissance education covered languages, arts, and an introduction to politics, equipping her with linguistic proficiency and a foundational understanding of governance.

Isabella sought to arrange a favorable marriage for Bona to regain political influence and her former possessions. Despite initial unsuccessful attempts due to Isabella’s unfavorable political position, with the support of the Habsburgs, she eventually succeeded in arranging Bona’s marriage to the widowed Polish King Sigismund I.

In 1518, Bona Sforza married King Sigismund I of Poland, becoming Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania.

A Queen and Reformer

Her role as the Queen of Poland was marked by significant administrative reforms, among which the establishment of a permanent tax system was a major achievement. Although it must be said that she imposed and enforced these taxes with a firm hand. Prior to her influence, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth relied on irregular and often arbitrary taxation methods that were not only inefficient but also prone to exacerbating tensions between the monarchy and the nobility. By introducing a more systematic and regularized tax system, she brought about greater fiscal stability and predictability, which was essential for the effective governance and financial planning of the state. In addition to these fiscal reforms, Bona Sforza made concerted efforts to reduce the influence of the nobility by curbing their traditional privileges and powers, thereby centralizing authority under the monarchy.

Beyond her domestic reforms, Bona Sforza was deeply engaged in the foreign affairs of the Polish-Lithuanian realm. She openly opposed the growing influence of the Habsburgs in Central Europe and sought to counterbalance it through alliances with France and the Ottoman Empire. Her foreign policy was closely tied to her dynastic interests, as she worked to secure titles, lands and advantageous marriages for her children. Although some of her efforts were ultimately frustrated, she remained a shrewd political operator, whose ambitions extended well beyond the borders of her adopted country.

Bona Sforza played a notable role in the development of Renaissance culture in Poland. Hailing from Italy, she brought with her the refined tastes of the Italian courts and introduced them to the Polish royal household. She actively patronised artists, architects and craftsmen, many of whom she brought from her native land, leaving a lasting mark on the visual and architectural landscape of the kingdom. Under her influence, Wawel Castle was transformed with elegant arcaded courtyards in the Italian style. Beyond architecture, she encouraged literary and educational pursuits, helping to shape a more sophisticated and cosmopolitan court culture.

She also had a considerable impact on Polish agriculture and cuisine. She introduced important agricultural reforms, including new crops and farming techniques. While the idea that she single-handedly brought vegetables to Poland is somewhat exaggerated, she did play a significant role in promoting their wider use at the royal court and among the nobility. As a noblewoman from Italy – where Renaissance culinary culture was particularly rich and diverse – she brought with her knowledge of produce that was not commonly used in Poland at the time. Her influence contributed to a gradual shift in dietary habits, particularly among the upper classes.

Power Struggles and Exile

Bona Sforza, towards the end of King Sigismund I’s reign and after his death in 1548, faced increasing animosity from the Polish nobility due to her strong political influence and centralizing reforms. Her relationship with her son, Sigismund II Augustus, became fraught with tension, as well. After he ascended to the throne, their differing views on state affairs exacerbated the strain in their relationship. A major source of conflict was also her son’s marriage to Barbara Radziwiłł from one of the most influential Polish-Lithuanian noble families. Bona viewed it as politically damaging and personally threatening, as it would strengthen his wife’s family influence at court while diminishing her own.

Consequently, for long eight years she moved with her daughters to Brodnica in Mazovia Poland. Finally she made the decision to leave Poland and return to Italy to Bari, marking the end of her direct involvement in Polish politics. Bona’s life came to an abrupt and mysterious end in 1557.

The Duchess of Bari

And here yet another fact from her life comes to light. Following her marriage to Sigismund I the Old in 1518, Bona was formally granted hereditary fiefs in southern Italy by Emperor Charles V of the Habsburg dynasty. These included the Duchy of Bari, the Principality of Rossano, as well as Modugno and Bitonto. These were highly lucrative estates situated in the Kingdom of Naples. Bona derived substantial income from them. She maintained financial independence and even loaned money to the Polish royal treasury. She was one of the wealthiest individuals in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and she handled her finances with remarkable diligence and care. For decades, even while residing in Poland, she administered her southern Italian fiefs through a network of trusted agents and correspondence. From the royal court in Kraków, she managed financial affairs, collected revenues, and oversaw local governance in the Duchy of Bari. This transregional management made her one of the most financially independent monarchs in Europe at the time.

When she eventually returned to Bari in 1556, she resumed direct rule and implemented a series of administrative and economic reforms. She strengthened tax collection, invested in urban infrastructure, and reasserted political control over her domains. Her presence in Bari reestablished the court as a center of local authority and Renaissance patronage — yet also drew the attention and hostility of the Spanish crown, particularly Philip II (son of Charles V), under whose rule the Kingdom of Naples now fell.

Bona died under suspicious circumstances. One of the historical hypotheses that has not been conclusively confirmed is the theory that she was poisoned by her secretary, Gian Lorenzo Pappacoda, who allegedly acted under orders from the Spanish crown. A forged will emerged, one that transferred her Italian holdings not to her son, as she had intended, but instead to Philip II. Poland’s diplomatic protests and claims were entirely ignored by the Spanish authorities.

She was buried in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Basilica of Saint Nicholas, Bari, Italy | 圣尼古拉大教堂，巴里，意大利 | Basilica di San Nicola, Bari, Italia

Grób Bony Sforzy w Bari | Tomb of Bona Sforza in Bari | Tomba di Bona Sforza a Bari | Tombeau de Bona Sforza à Bari | Grab von Bona Sforza in Bari | Tumba de Bona Sforza en Bari | Могила Боны Сфорцы в Бари | 巴里博娜·斯福尔扎之墓 | バーリにあるボナ・スフォルツァの墓 | 바리에 있는 보나 스포르차의 무덤

When you enter the Basilica of St. Nicholas, at first you do not see the sarcophagus of Bona, then you only see it from behind the baldachin, which is located in front of the altar. To see the sarcophagus and the sculpture depicting Bona immersed in prayer, you have to approach the altar closer.

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