Bari. At the Crossroads of Apulia

Today I would like to write about Bari, a large port city located in the Apulia region in southern Italy. It is one of those places that can be visited well beyond the peak summer season. Even in autumn, temperatures here remain pleasantly high, although it is still worth being prepared for occasional rainy days, which can appear quite suddenly at this time of year.

Unlike many of my previous trips to Italy, my stay in Bari was not limited to walking through a historic centre for a day or two. I spent nearly a week around the city while visiting family living several kilometres outside Bari. Because I had a rental car, I was able to see not only the most tourist-oriented places, but also the more contemporary and everyday side the city. It was precisely this double perspective that made Bari far more memorable than I had initially expected. On one hand, there are the very old, narrow streets of Bari Vecchia, full of tourists, restaurants, and historical landmarks, while on the other there are modern districts, broad avenues, heavy traffic, and the everyday life of a large city. And I have the impression that only after seeing both of these worlds is it possible to better understand Bari. In fact, I have noticed that this often happens when I travel for reasons other than tourism. Sometimes it is work, sometimes visiting family, but staying a little longer usually allows me to see a city from a much broader perspective than just its old town and main tourist attractions.

Driving through the city itself was also an experience of its own. It quickly became clear that finding a parking space in the late evening in the centre where I rented an apartment, was not exactly easy. The local driving style required a certain amount of adjustment, as well. I very quickly started appreciating the fact that the car had front and rear cameras, because many parking spaces looked significantly smaller than those I am used to. Bari did not feel unfriendly towards drivers, however – rather, it felt like a city functioning according to its own rules and rhythm, to which you simply have to adapt. What also surprised me in comparison with my own country was the much smaller number of road signs. Very often, especially at junctions, you have to pay close attention to the lines painted on the road itself, because only then do you realise who actually has priority.

At the same time, the car gave us an enormous amount of freedom, especially because some of our trips around the region were made together with my two-year-old niece. Bari became our base for exploring a larger part of Apulia and even a fragment of neighbouring Basilicata. Over the course of several days, we visited places including Alberobello with its famous trulli houses, Matera with its rock-cut districts, and Castel del Monte, which remains one of the most mysterious medieval buildings in Italy to this day. All of these places are located relatively close to Bari, and it is precisely then that you realise how good a base this city can be.

Despite the numerous trips outside Bari, there was also time to explore the city itself at a slower pace. One evening was spent mainly wandering through the historic centre, while on another day I devoted practically the entire day to the historic districts of Bari itself. And it was then that I started noticing that the city is far more complex than the images usually associated with it online might suggest.

Most tourists associate Bari almost exclusively with Bari Vecchia – the oldest part of the city located between the port and the sea. This is where the best-known landmarks are situated, including the Basilica of Saint Nicholas and the Norman-Swabian Castle. Narrow alleyways, stone walls, hanging laundry, and small squares really do create a very typical image of southern Italy. Even despite the large number of tourists, this part of the city occasionally feels almost medieval, particularly once you move away from the main walking routes.

The Norman-Swabian Castle of Bari turned out to be one of the most interesting places in the city. Since I have already described it in much greater detail elsewhere, I will only mention here that it is definitely worth visiting the interior rather than limiting yourself to viewing the walls from outside. The same applies to the Basilica of Saint Nicholas, which remains one of the most important religious sites in the entire region. It is here that the relics of Saint Nicholas were brought in the 11th century, making Bari an important pilgrimage destination and one of the key ports on the Adriatic for many centuries. At the time of my visit, the castle was undergoing renovation works, and one thing that also stood out was the relatively small number of exhibits inside. In practice, apart from the plaster cast gallery located on the ground floor, the interiors were quite empty. Nevertheless, the castle itself still makes a very strong impression. The castle was also closely connected with Bona Sforza, the Queen of Poland. It was here that she spent part of her life as Duchess of Bari before leaving for Kraków and marrying Sigismund I the Old, and she later returned to Bari during the final years of her life after leaving Poland. She was eventually buried in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas, where her sarcophagus can still be seen above the altar.

At the same time, Bari does not end with its medieval quarter. Between the main railway station and the seafront lies a completely different part of the historic city – more ordered, significantly wider, and filled with elegant townhouses and representative streets. This district, developed mainly during the 19th century, presents Bari not as a medieval port, but as a modern Italian city shaped during the period of Italian unification. The most characteristic features here are the broad avenues, particularly Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and Corso Cavour. The architecture of this part of the city feels far more monumental and organised than in Bari Vecchia. Townhouses dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries dominate the streetscape, often featuring neoclassical and eclectic elements. While walking through this part of Bari, I occasionally had the impression that I was in a completely different city from the one located only a few streets away.

And perhaps that contrast is what I remember most strongly. Bari is not merely a postcard-perfect medieval town designed purely for tourists. It is a large, living city with a very long history, which for centuries served as an important port and a meeting place of different cultures present around the Adriatic. You can see medieval, Norman, and Byzantine influences here, but also the 19th-century ambitions of a modern city.

The history of Bari is much older than it may initially appear while walking through the modern city. Thanks to its location on the Adriatic coast, the settlement developed as a port already in antiquity and from the beginning remained connected with maritime trade and contacts between the Italian Peninsula, the Balkans, and the eastern Mediterranean. During the Roman period, Bari, then known as Barium, became one of the more important ports in southern Italy, although for a long time it remained overshadowed by larger cities of the region.

Towards the end of the 4th century was the empire administratively divided into western and eastern parts. Because Bari was located within Italy, it became part of the Western Roman Empire. After its collapse in the 5th century, however, the political situation in southern Italy remained unstable for a very long time. The city repeatedly changed rulers and came under the influence of the Lombards, Byzantium, and for a certain period also the Arabs. The Byzantine period turned out to be particularly important because Bari became one of the main administrative centres of Byzantium in southern Italy. As a result, the city remained closely connected for centuries with the trade and culture of the eastern Mediterranean, maintaining contacts between Italy, the Balkans, and the Greek world.

In the 11th century, Bari was conquered by the Normans, who began extensive expansion of the fortifications and strengthened the city’s role as an important commercial and military port. Part of the oldest fabric of Bari Vecchia dates precisely from this period. At the same time, the arrival of the relics of Saint Nicholas from Myra in 1087 transformed the city’s position within medieval Europe, turning Bari into one of the most important pilgrimage destinations on the Adriatic. The Basilica of Saint Nicholas was built specifically to house these relics. Saint Nicholas himself is also a much more historically significant figure than modern popular culture might suggest today, when he is associated mainly with Christmas traditions. For centuries he was one of the most important saints in Christianity, particularly venerated in the Byzantine world and eastern Christianity. This is also why the basilica in Bari continues to hold major importance for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians.

The Normans created a powerful state that included Sicily and much of southern Italy. The last Norman heiress of this kingdom, Constance of Sicily, married Henry VI of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, the son of Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Through this marriage, the Hohenstaufens gained rights to the Kingdom of Sicily and, after the death of the last Norman ruler, took control of the entire state, including Bari. Their son was Frederick II, who spent part of his childhood in southern Italy and became very strongly connected with the region. One of the most important rulers of medieval southern Italy, he expanded and rebuilt several fortifications across the region, including the castle in Bari and the famous Castel del Monte.

After the decline of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, Bari later became part of the Kingdom of Naples. The Kingdom of Naples was a historical state that controlled most of southern Italy for many centuries, with Naples serving as its capital. It emerged during the Middle Ages and existed in various forms until the 19th century, when Italy was unified into a single country. Over the centuries, the kingdom itself was ruled by different dynasties, including the Angevins, Aragonese, and later the Spanish Bourbons. The city was repeatedly rebuilt and fortified, while its strategic position ensured that it played an important commercial and military role.

In the 19th century, Bari began expanding rapidly beyond its medieval walls. New representative districts with broad streets and elegant architecture inspired by the urban planning of modern European cities started to appear. It was during this period that much of the present-day centre of Bari took shape, creating a very visible contrast with the dense and narrow streets of Bari Vecchia.

Today, Bari is one of the largest cities in southern Italy and the capital of the Apulia region. Walking between medieval Bari Vecchia and the 19th-century avenues of the newer districts, it becomes very easy to see how the city evolved over the centuries. For me, however, Bari turned out also to be a very convenient place from which to explore the wider region. You can easily spend several days here focusing entirely on the city itself, but Bari works equally well as a starting point for further journeys around Apulia. And perhaps it is precisely this combination – everyday urban life, a historic centre, and an excellent location – that makes Bari stay in your memory much longer than you might initially expect.

Bari. At the Crossroads of Apulia

A Quiet Encounter with History. Visiting Bari’s Norman-Swabian Castle

Bari is a city in Apulia, southern Italy. I spent a few days there, exploring both on foot and by car, driving in and out through the more modern parts of the city, which gave me a decent overview of its structure. Aside from contemporary districts, Bari it is historic centre, which can be divided into two clearly distinct areas. The first, Bari Vecchia, is the medieval quarter, with narrow alleyways, an old cathedral, and a castle. The second Quartiere Murat features a more neoclassical look, typical of many Italian towns. Its main artery is Corso Cavour, an avenue named in honour of the first prime minister of a united Italy.

Today’s post is dedicated to the castle. It is known as the Norman-Swabian Castle (Castello Normanno-Svevo di Bari), named after its historical ties to two powerful dynasties: the Normans and the Swabians (Hohenstaufen).

The castle was originally built around 1132 by King Roger II of the Normans, on the foundations of earlier Byzantine structures. It was intended to serve as a defensive fortress and a symbol of Norman rule in Apulia. The Normans, who hailed from Normandy in northern France, were descendants of Vikings who had settled there in the 10th century. In the 11th century, some of them – mainly as mercenaries – began arriving in southern Italy and Sicily, taking advantage of local conflicts among Byzantines, Arabs, the Papacy, and local rulers. Over time, under the leadership of the Hauteville family (notably Robert Guiscard and Roger II), they conquered Apulia, Calabria, Naples, and Sicily. In 1130, Roger II crowned himself King of Sicily, establishing a kingdom that encompassed much of southern Italy.

In the mid-12th century, Bari often rebelled against central Norman authority. In 1155, backed by the Byzantine Empire, the city rose up against William I, son of Roger II. In retaliation, the king ordered the destruction of the city walls and the castle – an act of repression and a demonstration of power against local dissent. Around a century later, following the takeover of the Kingdom of Sicily by the Hohenstaufen dynasty, the castle was rebuilt by Emperor Frederick II, son of Constance, daughter of Roger II. The reconstruction, carried out between 1233 and 1240, gave the castle its characteristic trapezoidal layout, with a central courtyard, massive corner towers, and a moat (except on the northern side, which bordered the sea).

In the 13th century, following the death of Frederick II and the fall of the Hohenstaufen dynasty, Bari came under the control of the Angevins, and from 1442, the Aragonese, as part of the Kingdom of Naples. During this period, the castle underwent gradual transformations – especially in the Renaissance era, when Isabella of Aragon and her daughter Bona Sforza transformed it into an elegant residence. A monumental staircase, chapel, and courtly interiors were added. In 1504, Bari fell under the rule of the Spanish Habsburgs. In 1696, a lightning strike hit one of the castle’s towers, igniting stored gunpowder and causing a major explosion that damaged both the castle and surrounding buildings.

After the War of the Spanish Succession, Bari came briefly under Austrian rule in 1707, and from 1734 became part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, ruled by the Bourbon dynasty. During this time, the castle lost its residential status and was used as a prison and military barracks. In 1861, following the unification of Italy, Bari and its castle were incorporated into the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.

A popular legend is linked to the castle, involving Saint Francis of Assisi. During his journey to the Holy Land, he is said to have stopped in Bari, where Emperor Frederick II tested him by placing him in a tower with a young woman. Francis resisted the temptation, and the tower became known as the Monk’s Tower or Tower of Saint Francis.

Architecturally, the castle is defined by its massive stone structure, characteristic of medieval fortifications, designed to impress and defend. It is surrounded by a dry moat, once serving as an additional protective barrier, and accessed via a bridge that leads to the main gate. The layout follows a trapezoidal plan, with four sturdy corner towers framing a spacious central courtyard.

Yo can see the blend of architectural styles, reflecting the layers of history embedded in its walls. The robust Norman foundations are complemented by Swabian modifications combining military precision with elegant form. Gothic windows and arches soften a bit the austere structure, while later Renaissance additions give it a touch of refinement.

Exterior and interior views of the castle reveal the passage of time and a mix of architectural styles. The central courtyard feels rather bare, but it’s worth remembering this was originally a fortress, only later adapted during the Renaissance. The castle is largely unfurnished, with a few multimedia installations aiming to evoke its past

That said, much of the structure remains closed to the public due to ongoing restoration work. During my visit, I had the distinct impression that not everything has yet been unveiled — parts of the castle feel hidden or inaccessible, and some spaces could be better presented to help visitors connect with the site’s layered past. The inner courtyard, though spacious, felt somewhat stark and empty, offering little to linger over. With its few windows and fortress-like interiors, the castle clearly functioned more as a stronghold than a residence. Perhaps in the future, once renovations are complete, more of the building’s potential will be revealed.

Today, the Norman-Swabian Castle of Bari serves as a museum and cultural centre, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and artistic events. On the ground floor, visitors can explore collections of sculpture, ceramics, and archaeological finds – some original, others cast replicas. From an upper upper gallery at the ground floor, visitors can view archaeological excavations in the lower levels of the castle. The interior is sparsely furnished, with only a few pieces on display. However, visitors can walk through the chambers and along the defensive walls, where several rooms feature historical multimedia projections. The site also houses a Gipsoteca, a plaster cast museum displaying Romanesque art from Apulia, including details from the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari and the Cathedral of Trani.

A few examples of the plaster casts on display in the Gipsoteca inside Bari’s castle.

When I visited the castle in late 2023, one of the halls featured a visual narrative on the life of Queen Bona. Who was Bona? She was the granddaughter of Alfonso II of Aragon, King of Naples, through her mother, Isabella of Aragon. In 1518, after marrying King Sigismund I the Old of Poland, she was granted Bari and Rossano as a fiefdom by Emperor Charles V. Although she spent most of her life in Poland, the castle in Bari remained part of her hereditary estate. She managed her Italian holdings and played an active role in administering the castle and surrounding lands. Both Bona and her mother transformed the fortress into a Renaissance residence, adding a monumental staircase and chapel. During this period, the castle became the seat of a refined court blending Italian and Polish influences. Bona’s legacy in Bari is so profound that her sarcophagus was placed above the altar in the nearby Basilica of Saint Nicholas (Basilica di San Nicola).

Scenes from the multimedia presentation on Queen Bona, featuring her elegant Renaissance dresses and her significant political role as Queen of Poland.

The Norman-Swabian castle of Bari is not yet a fully curated museum space, but its structure, setting, and historical significance remain an integral part of the old town’s landscape.

A Quiet Encounter with History. Visiting Bari’s Norman-Swabian Castle

Bona Sforza

Bari is a city that is heard of in Poland from early childhood history lessons. In this city, one of the most influential queens in Polish history, Bona Sforza, was living before and after her stay in Poland. She became the Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania through her marriage to Sigismund I of Poland. It was only while staying with an Italian family near Bari that I learned that Bona Sforza was a significant figure in Bari, as well. Furthermore, that her modest sarcophagus is placed on the altar in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Born 1494, in Milan, Italy, she was the daughter of Gian Galeazzo Sforza, Duke of Milan, and Isabella of Naples. Bona’s family, the Sforzas, were one of the leading families in Italy. Her childhood was affected by the political turmoil involving her family. The Sforza family’s power in Milan was contested. Her father died under mysterious circumstances when Bona was just a child. Soon after her father’s death, Duchess Isabella moved with her daughters to Bari. Bona’s Renaissance education covered languages, arts, and an introduction to politics, equipping her with linguistic proficiency and a foundational understanding of governance.

Isabella sought to arrange a favorable marriage for Bona to regain political influence and her former possessions. Despite initial unsuccessful attempts due to Isabella’s unfavorable political position, with the support of the Habsburgs, she eventually succeeded in arranging Bona’s marriage to the widowed Polish King Sigismund I.

In 1518, Bona Sforza married King Sigismund I of Poland, becoming Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania.

Her role as the Queen of Poland was marked by significant administrative reforms, among which the establishment of a permanent tax system was a major achievement. Although it must be said that she imposed and enforced these taxes with a firm hand. Prior to her influence, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth relied on irregular and often arbitrary taxation methods that were not only inefficient but also prone to exacerbating tensions between the monarchy and the nobility. By introducing a more systematic and regularized tax system, she brought about greater fiscal stability and predictability, which was essential for the effective governance and financial planning of the state. In addition to these fiscal reforms, Bona Sforza made concerted efforts to reduce the influence of the nobility by curbing their traditional privileges and powers, thereby centralizing authority under the monarchy.

Beyond her domestic reforms, Bona Sforza was deeply engaged in the foreign affairs of the Polish-Lithuanian realm. She openly opposed the growing influence of the Habsburgs in Central Europe and sought to counterbalance it through alliances with France and the Ottoman Empire. Her foreign policy was closely tied to her dynastic interests, as she worked to secure titles, lands and advantageous marriages for her children. Although some of her efforts were ultimately frustrated, she remained a shrewd political operator, whose ambitions extended well beyond the borders of her adopted country.

Bona Sforza played a notable role in the development of Renaissance culture in Poland. Hailing from Italy, she brought with her the refined tastes of the Italian courts and introduced them to the Polish royal household. She actively patronised artists, architects and craftsmen, many of whom she brought from her native land, leaving a lasting mark on the visual and architectural landscape of the kingdom. Under her influence, Wawel Castle was transformed with elegant arcaded courtyards in the Italian style. Beyond architecture, she encouraged literary and educational pursuits, helping to shape a more sophisticated and cosmopolitan court culture.

She also had a considerable impact on Polish agriculture and cuisine. She introduced important agricultural reforms, including new crops and farming techniques. While the idea that she single-handedly brought vegetables to Poland is somewhat exaggerated, she did play a significant role in promoting their wider use at the royal court and among the nobility. As a noblewoman from Italy – where Renaissance culinary culture was particularly rich and diverse – she brought with her knowledge of produce that was not commonly used in Poland at the time. Her influence contributed to a gradual shift in dietary habits, particularly among the upper classes.

Bona Sforza, towards the end of King Sigismund I’s reign and after his death in 1548, faced increasing animosity from the Polish nobility due to her strong political influence and centralizing reforms. Her relationship with her son, Sigismund II Augustus, became fraught with tension, as well. After he ascended to the throne, their differing views on state affairs exacerbated the strain in their relationship. A major source of conflict was also her son’s marriage to Barbara Radziwiłł from one of the most influential Polish-Lithuanian noble families. Bona viewed it as politically damaging and personally threatening, as it would strengthen his wife’s family influence at court while diminishing her own.

Consequently, for long eight years she moved with her daughters to Brodnica in Mazovia Poland. Finally she made the decision to leave Poland and return to Italy to Bari, marking the end of her direct involvement in Polish politics. Bona’s life came to an abrupt and mysterious end in 1557.

And here yet another fact from her life comes to light. Following her marriage to Sigismund I the Old in 1518, Bona was formally granted hereditary fiefs in southern Italy by Emperor Charles V of the Habsburg dynasty. These included the Duchy of Bari, the Principality of Rossano, as well as Modugno and Bitonto. These were highly lucrative estates situated in the Kingdom of Naples. Bona derived substantial income from them. She maintained financial independence and even loaned money to the Polish royal treasury. She was one of the wealthiest individuals in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and she handled her finances with remarkable diligence and care. For decades, even while residing in Poland, she administered her southern Italian fiefs through a network of trusted agents and correspondence. From the royal court in Kraków, she managed financial affairs, collected revenues, and oversaw local governance in the Duchy of Bari. This transregional management made her one of the most financially independent monarchs in Europe at the time.

When she eventually returned to Bari in 1556, she resumed direct rule and implemented a series of administrative and economic reforms. She strengthened tax collection, invested in urban infrastructure, and reasserted political control over her domains. Her presence in Bari reestablished the court as a center of local authority and Renaissance patronage — yet also drew the attention and hostility of the Spanish crown, particularly Philip II (son of Charles V), under whose rule the Kingdom of Naples now fell.

Bona died under suspicious circumstances. One of the historical hypotheses that has not been conclusively confirmed is the theory that she was poisoned by her secretary, Gian Lorenzo Pappacoda, who allegedly acted under orders from the Spanish crown. A forged will emerged, one that transferred her Italian holdings not to her son, as she had intended, but instead to Philip II. Poland’s diplomatic protests and claims were entirely ignored by the Spanish authorities.

She was buried in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Bona Sforza