For several days, Großer Arber was a constant presence on the horizon, visible from both the Czech and German sides of the border. As the highest peak in the Bavarian Forest, it offers sweeping views across Šumava, Bavaria and, on clear days, even the distant Alps. With its distinctive radar domes, extensive summit ridge and well-developed hiking trails, it proved to be far more than just another mountain viewpoint.
Großer Arber, Bavarian Forest | Großer Arber, Bayerischer Wald | Großer Arber, forêt bavaroise | Wielki Jawor, Las Bawarski | Großer Arber, Selva de Baviera | Velký Javor, Bavorský les | 大阿尔伯山，巴伐利亚森林 | グローサー・アルバー山、バイエルンの森 | 그로서 아르버 산, 바이에른 숲
For several days our base is Železná Ruda, a small town on the Czech-German border. From there we set out each day to explore different parts of the Šumava region and the surrounding mountains. Throughout our stay, one landmark seemed to accompany us wherever we went – Großer Arber. The longer we spent in the region, the more often the mountain appeared on the horizon. Sometimes it dominated the view. At other times it emerged only briefly above the endless forests. Yet it was impossible to ignore.
Our yesterday visit to Großer Arber was only one part of a much longer journey. After exploring western Bohemia and spending time in the forests of Šumava, we plan to continue south towards Salzburg and the Bavarian Alps. Even so, this mountain attracted our attention from the very beginning of the trip. Having seen it repeatedly from roads, viewpoints and village streets on both sides of the border, it felt only natural that sooner or later we should make our way to the summit and discover the region from above.
Rising to 1,456 metres above sea level, Großer Arber is the highest peak in the Bavarian Forest. Known in Czech as Velký Javor (Great Maple), it differs markedly from the dramatic, jagged summits associated with the Alps. Rather than culminating in a narrow rocky peak, Großer Arber forms a broad, open ridge. This gives the summit area a spacious feel and allows visitors to move easily between viewpoints while enjoying the surrounding landscape at a more relaxed pace.
To understand the significance of Großer Arber, it helps to look beyond the mountain itself and consider the wider landscape in which it stands. The Bavarian Forest in Germany and Šumava in the Czech Republic are not two separate mountain ranges but different parts of the same vast forested region stretching along the border between the two countries. For centuries, these mountains formed a natural frontier, covered by dense woodland and scattered settlements. Today, although the international border still runs through the area, the landscape remains remarkably continuous. Forested ridges, valleys and mountain slopes extend across both countries with little regard for political boundaries. The region is also home to two neighbouring national parks – Bavarian Forest National Park in Germany and Šumava National Park in the Czech Republic. Together they protect one of the largest continuous woodland areas in Central Europe, creating a landscape that feels far more defined by nature than by the line drawn on a map.
Reaching the summit could hardly have been easier. Like many popular destinations in Bavaria, Großer Arber is supported by excellent visitor infrastructure, making it accessible to a wide range of travellers rather than only experienced hikers. From the lower station, small six-person gondola cabins carry visitors up the mountainside through the forest. The journey itself offers increasingly expansive views of the surrounding landscape before arriving just below the summit. From there, only a short walk is required to reach the highest parts of the mountain. As elsewhere in Bavaria, the tourist infrastructure on Großer Arber is exceptionally well organised. Visitors who prefer not to undertake a strenuous hike can reach the upper part of the mountain by cable car, while those who wish to spend more time outdoors will find a network of well-maintained walking paths and viewpoints around the summit. Facilities are thoughtfully integrated into the landscape. Restaurants, refreshment stops, seating areas and public conveniences make it easy to spend several hours on the mountain without feeling rushed.
The mountain invites visitors to linger. Rather than gathering around a single viewpoint, people spread out across the broad summit ridge, following paths that lead in different directions and reveal new perspectives of the surrounding landscape. While the distant views naturally draw attention, I found myself equally interested in the details of the summit itself. Rocky outcrops emerge from the ground in unexpected places, patches of mountain vegetation cling to the exposed terrain, and here and there visitors have balanced small cairns from loose stones.
We were fortunate with the weather on the day of our visit. After encountering less favourable conditions elsewhere during the trip, it was a pleasure to find clear skies, good visibility and enough sunshine to fully appreciate the views from the mountain. The summit offers far-reaching panoramas across the forests of the Bavarian Forest and Šumava, whose endless ridges seem to stretch towards the horizon in every direction. Looking out across this landscape, it becomes easy to appreciate the scale of the region and the vast extent of its woodland cover. The Alps were also visible in the distance. The morning light and a slight haze softened their outlines, giving them an almost ethereal appearance on the horizon. Although the conditions were not perfect, it was still possible to pick out the distant mountain chain. Local visitors told us that on exceptionally clear afternoons the Alpine panorama can be even more impressive.
One of the most distinctive features of Großer Arber is the pair of white radar domes that crown the summit. Visible from considerable distances across both Germany and the Czech Republic, they make the mountain instantly recognisable. The domes are a reminder that Großer Arber was valued not only for its scenery but also for its strategic location. During the Cold War, the summit hosted military radar installations, taking advantage of the mountain’s commanding position and extensive views across Central Europe. For decades, the site played a role in monitoring air traffic and military activity during a period when the nearby border formed part of the divide between East and West.
For readers unfamiliar with European history, the Cold War was the decades-long political and military rivalry between the Western democracies led by the United States and the communist states led by the Soviet Union. At the time, Großer Arber stood in West Germany, a member of NATO, while neighbouring Czechoslovakia belonged to the Soviet-backed Warsaw Pact. The nearby border formed part of the Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified line that divided much of Europe until the collapse of communist regimes in 1989.
The decision to build the radar station was controversial. Conservationists objected to the construction of large military structures on one of the most prominent peaks in the Bavarian Forest, while military planners regarded the summit as an ideal location for monitoring airspace beyond the Iron Curtain. Construction began in the late 1970s, and the facility entered service in 1983 at a time when tensions between NATO and the Warsaw Pact remained high. From this elevated position, radar operators could monitor aircraft movements across a large area of Central Europe. The station was operated by the West German Air Force and formed part of NATO’s air-defence network, providing surveillance and early warning coverage along one of the alliance’s eastern frontiers.
The end of the Cold War did not bring an end to the station’s importance. Instead, the facility was modernised and incorporated into the Integrated NATO Air Defence System. In the mid-1990s, new radar equipment was installed, allowing the station to continue its role in airspace surveillance. Today, one of the domes houses a long-range radar system, while the other contains communications equipment used for military operations. The installation remains operational and is currently run by the German Air Force. As a result, the white domes that dominate the summit are not merely historical curiosities. Although they have become an accepted part of the mountain’s silhouette, they remain active elements of Germany’s and NATO’s air-defence infrastructure.
This one photograph is only a small glimpse of what I have on my camera. To my Großer Arber gallery as it currently is as the photos I have taken when hiking in Šumava.
Rather than taking the cable car back down, we decided to return on foot. The descent is not particularly long – around forty minutes in our case – but it is steep enough in places to remind you that you are coming down a mountain rather than strolling through a park. The route passes through attractive forest scenery, with moss-covered ground, exposed roots, rocky sections and occasional stretches of wider gravel paths. After spending time on the open summit ridge, it was pleasant to find ourselves once again surrounded by trees and immersed in the landscape that defines both the Bavarian Forest and neighbouring Šumava. Along the way we also encountered mountain bikers, another reminder of how well the area caters for different types of visitors. Dedicated cycling routes help keep riders and walkers apart, allowing both groups to enjoy the mountain safely and comfortably without getting in one another’s way.
Looking back, Großer Arber proved to be far more than a viewpoint overlooking the surrounding countryside. The combination of easy access, extensive views, attractive walking routes and excellent facilities makes it one of the most rewarding destinations in the region. Whether arriving for the panoramas, the forests, the history or simply a day outdoors, it is easy to understand why the mountain remains one of the Bavarian Forest’s most popular attractions.
