Großer Arber. Above the Forests of Bavaria and Šumava

For several days, Großer Arber was a constant presence on the horizon, visible from both the Czech and German sides of the border. As the highest peak in the Bavarian Forest, it offers sweeping views across Šumava, Bavaria and, on clear days, even the distant Alps. With its distinctive radar domes, extensive summit ridge and well-developed hiking trails, it proved to be far more than just another mountain viewpoint.

For several days our base is Železná Ruda, a small town on the Czech-German border. From there we set out each day to explore different parts of the Šumava region and the surrounding mountains. Throughout our stay, one landmark seemed to accompany us wherever we went – Großer Arber. The longer we spent in the region, the more often the mountain appeared on the horizon. Sometimes it dominated the view. At other times it emerged only briefly above the endless forests. Yet it was impossible to ignore.

Our yesterday visit to Großer Arber was only one part of a much longer journey. After exploring western Bohemia and spending time in the forests of Šumava, we plan to continue south towards Salzburg and the Bavarian Alps. Even so, this mountain attracted our attention from the very beginning of the trip. Having seen it repeatedly from roads, viewpoints and village streets on both sides of the border, it felt only natural that sooner or later we should make our way to the summit and discover the region from above.

Rising to 1,456 metres above sea level, Großer Arber is the highest peak in the Bavarian Forest. Known in Czech as Velký Javor (Great Maple), it differs markedly from the dramatic, jagged summits associated with the Alps. Rather than culminating in a narrow rocky peak, Großer Arber forms a broad, open ridge. This gives the summit area a spacious feel and allows visitors to move easily between viewpoints while enjoying the surrounding landscape at a more relaxed pace.

To understand the significance of Großer Arber, it helps to look beyond the mountain itself and consider the wider landscape in which it stands. The Bavarian Forest in Germany and Šumava in the Czech Republic are not two separate mountain ranges but different parts of the same vast forested region stretching along the border between the two countries. For centuries, these mountains formed a natural frontier, covered by dense woodland and scattered settlements. Today, although the international border still runs through the area, the landscape remains remarkably continuous. Forested ridges, valleys and mountain slopes extend across both countries with little regard for political boundaries. The region is also home to two neighbouring national parks – Bavarian Forest National Park in Germany and Šumava National Park in the Czech Republic. Together they protect one of the largest continuous woodland areas in Central Europe, creating a landscape that feels far more defined by nature than by the line drawn on a map.

Reaching the summit could hardly have been easier. Like many popular destinations in Bavaria, Großer Arber is supported by excellent visitor infrastructure, making it accessible to a wide range of travellers rather than only experienced hikers. From the lower station, small six-person gondola cabins carry visitors up the mountainside through the forest. The journey itself offers increasingly expansive views of the surrounding landscape before arriving just below the summit. From there, only a short walk is required to reach the highest parts of the mountain. As elsewhere in Bavaria, the tourist infrastructure on Großer Arber is exceptionally well organised. Visitors who prefer not to undertake a strenuous hike can reach the upper part of the mountain by cable car, while those who wish to spend more time outdoors will find a network of well-maintained walking paths and viewpoints around the summit. Facilities are thoughtfully integrated into the landscape. Restaurants, refreshment stops, seating areas and public conveniences make it easy to spend several hours on the mountain without feeling rushed.

The mountain invites visitors to linger. Rather than gathering around a single viewpoint, people spread out across the broad summit ridge, following paths that lead in different directions and reveal new perspectives of the surrounding landscape. While the distant views naturally draw attention, I found myself equally interested in the details of the summit itself. Rocky outcrops emerge from the ground in unexpected places, patches of mountain vegetation cling to the exposed terrain, and here and there visitors have balanced small cairns from loose stones.

We were fortunate with the weather on the day of our visit. After encountering less favourable conditions elsewhere during the trip, it was a pleasure to find clear skies, good visibility and enough sunshine to fully appreciate the views from the mountain. The summit offers far-reaching panoramas across the forests of the Bavarian Forest and Šumava, whose endless ridges seem to stretch towards the horizon in every direction. Looking out across this landscape, it becomes easy to appreciate the scale of the region and the vast extent of its woodland cover. The Alps were also visible in the distance. The morning light and a slight haze softened their outlines, giving them an almost ethereal appearance on the horizon. Although the conditions were not perfect, it was still possible to pick out the distant mountain chain. Local visitors told us that on exceptionally clear afternoons the Alpine panorama can be even more impressive.

One of the most distinctive features of Großer Arber is the pair of white radar domes that crown the summit. Visible from considerable distances across both Germany and the Czech Republic, they make the mountain instantly recognisable. The domes are a reminder that Großer Arber was valued not only for its scenery but also for its strategic location. During the Cold War, the summit hosted military radar installations, taking advantage of the mountain’s commanding position and extensive views across Central Europe. For decades, the site played a role in monitoring air traffic and military activity during a period when the nearby border formed part of the divide between East and West.

For readers unfamiliar with European history, the Cold War was the decades-long political and military rivalry between the Western democracies led by the United States and the communist states led by the Soviet Union. At the time, Großer Arber stood in West Germany, a member of NATO, while neighbouring Czechoslovakia belonged to the Soviet-backed Warsaw Pact. The nearby border formed part of the Iron Curtain, the heavily fortified line that divided much of Europe until the collapse of communist regimes in 1989.

The decision to build the radar station was controversial. Conservationists objected to the construction of large military structures on one of the most prominent peaks in the Bavarian Forest, while military planners regarded the summit as an ideal location for monitoring airspace beyond the Iron Curtain. Construction began in the late 1970s, and the facility entered service in 1983 at a time when tensions between NATO and the Warsaw Pact remained high. From this elevated position, radar operators could monitor aircraft movements across a large area of Central Europe. The station was operated by the West German Air Force and formed part of NATO’s air-defence network, providing surveillance and early warning coverage along one of the alliance’s eastern frontiers.

The end of the Cold War did not bring an end to the station’s importance. Instead, the facility was modernised and incorporated into the Integrated NATO Air Defence System. In the mid-1990s, new radar equipment was installed, allowing the station to continue its role in airspace surveillance. Today, one of the domes houses a long-range radar system, while the other contains communications equipment used for military operations. The installation remains operational and is currently run by the German Air Force. As a result, the white domes that dominate the summit are not merely historical curiosities. Although they have become an accepted part of the mountain’s silhouette, they remain active elements of Germany’s and NATO’s air-defence infrastructure.

Großer Arber, Bavaria, Germany | Großer Arber, Bayern, Deutschland | Großer Arber, Bavière, Allemagne | Großer Arber, Bawaria, Niemcy | Großer Arber, Baviera, Alemania | Großer Arber, Bavorsko, Německo | 德国巴伐利亚州大阿尔伯山 | ドイツ、バイエルン州グローサー・アルバー山 | 독일 바이에른주의 그로서 아르버 산

This one photograph is only a small glimpse of what I have on my camera. To my Großer Arber gallery as it currently is as the photos I have taken when hiking in Šumava.

Rather than taking the cable car back down, we decided to return on foot. The descent is not particularly long – around forty minutes in our case – but it is steep enough in places to remind you that you are coming down a mountain rather than strolling through a park. The route passes through attractive forest scenery, with moss-covered ground, exposed roots, rocky sections and occasional stretches of wider gravel paths. After spending time on the open summit ridge, it was pleasant to find ourselves once again surrounded by trees and immersed in the landscape that defines both the Bavarian Forest and neighbouring Šumava. Along the way we also encountered mountain bikers, another reminder of how well the area caters for different types of visitors. Dedicated cycling routes help keep riders and walkers apart, allowing both groups to enjoy the mountain safely and comfortably without getting in one another’s way.

Looking back, Großer Arber proved to be far more than a viewpoint overlooking the surrounding countryside. The combination of easy access, extensive views, attractive walking routes and excellent facilities makes it one of the most rewarding destinations in the region. Whether arriving for the panoramas, the forests, the history or simply a day outdoors, it is easy to understand why the mountain remains one of the Bavarian Forest’s most popular attractions.

Großer Arber. Above the Forests of Bavaria and Šumava

Berlin Cathedral

2024 By justmovingaround in GERMANY, Sacred Grounds Tags: Architecture, Cathedrals, Churches and Religious Heritage, Germany

Berlin Cathedral is a Protestant church. And yet, about a minute after stepping inside, the surprise begins. Because nothing looks quite the way I expected. There’s no Gothic gloom, no austere Protestant simplicity. Instead, there’s gold, marble, opera-like organs, and royal sarcophagi. The Berlin Cathedral – formally Protestant – seems designed to impress. And it does, though in a way that defies all assumptions.

The Berlin Cathedral (in German: Berliner Dom) is a prominent Protestant church and the largest church in Berlin. It is located on Museum Island in the Mitte borough of Berlin. Its construction began in 1894 under the architect Julius Carl Raschdorff. It was built on the site of a previous Baroque-style cathedral that had been demolished. The Cathedral was completed in 1905.

I have already seen countless cathedrals, basilicas, or churches in Europe. But upon entering this one, I was impressed by its perfect design and imperial look. It holds your eyes with impressive Baroque and Renaissance architecture, but it is not overdosed like many Baroque churches. You see gold, but not too much. It is adorned with beautiful mosaics, sculptures, and stained glass windows. Under closer scrutiny, you see the symmetry of the interior design that conveys a sense of order and authority.

The Berlin Cathedral on approach from its front and back, and the first look onto its interior and the dome.

The idea of constructing a cathedral in Berlin gained momentum in the late 19th century. It was the time when the German Empire that emerged upon the Kingdom of Prussia, led by Kaiser Wilhelm II, sought to assert its influence and compete with other European powers. The German Empire was officially proclaimed on January 18, 1871, in the aftermath of the Franco-Prussian War. The German Empire was a federal state with a constitutional monarchy. The monarch, initially Kaiser Wilhelm I, only briefly his son Frederick III, and later his grandson Kaiser Wilhelm II. It collapsed after World War I in November 1918. The war resulted in significant economic strain, social unrest, and military defeat. Kaiser Wilhelm II abdicated. The Weimar Republic was established.

The look onto the altar, the back and the organs which are located on your left hand side as you look onto the altar. Beneath the latter you can see sarcophages of the Prussian royalty.

Three pictures over the main altar

The pulpit

The Cathedral became the main church for the Protestant Church of the Prussian Union. The Prussian Union was a historical Protestant church union that emerged in the Kingdom of Prussia, the predecessor of the German Empire in the early 19th century. The primary aim was to create a unified Protestant church structure that could bridge the theological and liturgical differences between Lutherans and Reformed Protestants. It was initiated by King Frederick William III of Prussia through a royal edict on September 27, 1817. At this time, Prussia was a significant German state with a diverse population practicing various forms of Protestantism, including Lutheran and Reformed (Calvinist) traditions.

The Berlin Cathedral suffered significant damage during World War II due to Allied bombings. The dome and much of the interior were severely affected. In the post-war years, the East German government took charge of the cathedral. As in all countries under Soviet influence, there was an overall trend of secularization. While the state allowed for the existence of churches, they were subject to state control and scrutiny. The interior was initially used for secular purposes. But later in the seventies extensive restoration efforts were undertaken, and the cathedral was reopened to the public in 1993 after substantial reconstruction.

Details of the Berliner Dom opulent interior.

There are various members of the Kingdom of Prussia burried beneath the Cathedral in the Hohenzollern Crypt – Frederick William I, the King of Prussia, and his wife, Sophia Dorothea of Hanover; Wilhelm I, the first German Emperor (Kaiser) and King of Prussia; Empress Augusta Victoria, wife of Wilhelm II (the last German Emperor), and others. Besides in the dome we can admire the so called canotaphs erected as symbolic memorials to individuals whose remains are located elsewhere – Frederick III, the German Emperor and King of Prussia for a very brief period in 1888. The sarcophages are made from luxurious materials such as precious metals, marble, or other valuable materials. They are adorned with intricate carvings, engravings, and decorative elements that symbolize the deceased person’s position. The cathedral also contains various memorials and plaques dedicated to individuals, including military personnel and clergy, who played significant roles in German history.

Opulent canotaphs inside the cathedral. It is difficult to make photos of them as they are placed behind massive bars.

The Berlin Cathedral’s dome is accessible to visitors willing to get to the roof. As I can recall it there was no lift inside, so I had to climb it using narrow stairs. The dome offers panoramic views of Berlin.

To the BERLINER DOM site

To BERLIN main site

To ON SACRED GROUNDS main site

The Ishtar Gate of Babylon

2023 By justmovingaround in GERMANY, History, Sightseeing Tags: Architecture, Berlin, Historical Artefacts, Museums

With its deep-blue glazed bricks and long rows of lions and dragons, the Ishtar Gate remains one of the most iconic monuments of ancient Babylon. Now on display at Berlin’s Pergamon Museum, it offers a rare, tangible glimpse into Mesopotamian grandeur. In this post, I share a few reflections from finally seeing it in person — after years of reading about it — along with some context on how it ended up in Germany, and a brief note on the archaeological practices behind its removal.

Construction and Symbolism of the Ishtar Gate

The Ishtar Gate, constructed in the 6th century BCE during the reign of King Nebuchadnezzar II, was one of the main entrances to the ancient city of Babylon (in present-day Iraq). Located on the northern side of the city, it was part of a grand complex of walls, gates, and palaces. Renowned for its striking design, the gate was dedicated to Ishtar, the Babylonian goddess of love, fertility, and war.

King Nebuchadnezzar II was a Babylonian king who ruled from 605–562 BCE. He is known for his military conquests, including the capture of Jerusalem and the destruction of the First Temple in 586 BCE. He is also remembered for his monumental building projects, such as the legendary Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

The Ishtar Gate was built using baked bricks in varying shades of blue, glazed to achieve a glossy finish, making it a visually striking structure. The intense blue color symbolized the divine realm, evoking the sky and the presence of the gods, and was meant to impress and overwhelm all who approached.

Constructed in the Babylonian architectural style, the gate featured a tall arched entrance flanked by towers, forming a monumental threshold to the inner city. Its surface was adorned with reliefs of dragons, lions, and bulls arranged in alternating rows. Each animal was molded separately and then affixed to the wall, showcasing the technical mastery of the artisans. These creatures were not decorative alone – they carried deep symbolic meaning: dragons represented Marduk, Babylon’s chief deity; lions were associated with Ishtar, the goddess to whom the gate was dedicated; and bulls symbolized Adad, the god of storms.

The construction process was highly complex, requiring skilled artisans proficient in brick-making and glazed tile-work. But beyond craftsmanship, the gate served as a political and religious statement – a bold declaration of royal power and divine favor. As people passed through it, often during ritual processions, they experienced not only the grandeur of architecture, but also the ideological core of the Babylonian empire: a world governed by gods, ruled by kings, and expressed in stone and fire-glazed brick.

Blue glazed brickwork of the Ishtar Gate | Briques émaillées bleues de la porte d’Ishtar | Blaue glasierte Ziegel der Ischtar-Tor | Ladrillos vidriados azules de la Puerta de Ishtar | Mattoni smaltati blu della Porta di Ishtar | Niebieskie glazurowane cegły Bramy Isztar | Синие глазурованные кирпичи ворот Иштар | 伊什塔尔门的蓝色釉面砖 | イシュタル門の青い釉薬レンガ | 이슈타르 문에 사용된 푸른 유약 벽돌

Discovery and Reconstruction

The Ishtar Gate was rediscovered in the early 20th century by a team of German archaeologists led by Robert Koldewey. Koldewey had been excavating the site of Babylon since 1899, uncovering numerous significant structures and artifacts from the ancient city. In 1902, he began a targeted excavation to locate the Ishtar Gate, long known from ancient texts but yet to be identified.

After several months of work, his team uncovered part of the gate’s foundations, including fragments of its original blue-glazed bricks. Over the next few years, they carefully excavated and documented the remains, which proved to be in remarkably good condition, despite their age and centuries of exposure.

Eventually, the gate was dismantled and transported to Germany, where it was entrusted to a team of experts under the leadership of Wilhelm von Bode. The reconstruction process involved painstakingly fitting together thousands of pieces, including the glazed bricks and the intricately molded figures of animals and deities that once adorned the gate.

In 1930, the reconstructed Ishtar Gate was installed in the main hall of the Pergamon Museum in Berlin. Although the museum had not been built specifically for the gate, it provided an appropriately grand setting for this monumental artifact. The Pergamon Museum, originally established in the early 20th century to house the Prussian royal collections, had grown to include major archaeological finds from across the ancient world. The Ishtar Gate, acquired in the 1920s along with other treasures from Babylon, became one of its most iconic exhibits.

German Archaeology. Influence and Criticism

In the early 20th century, German archaeologists emerged as some of the most prominent and influential figures in the field. At the time, archaeology was still a developing discipline, and German scholars helped define the methodologies and techniques that continue to influence archaeological practice today.

Among the most notable figures was Heinrich Schliemann, known for his excavations at Troy and Mycenae, and Robert Koldewey, whose work in Babylon, particularly on the Ishtar Gate, became internationally recognized. Other influential archaeologists included Ernst Curtius, who excavated Olympia, and Hermann Thiersch, who worked at Pergamon. Their research was often state-supported, with backing from the German government, which viewed archaeology as a means to assert cultural and political influence abroad.

Central to these efforts was the German Oriental Society (Deutsche Orient-Gesellschaft, or DOG), founded in 1898 in Berlin. Dedicated to the study of the Middle East and Central Asia, the DOG played a key role in organizing expeditions and publishing scholarly work that shaped the image of the ancient Near East in Europe. The Society also positioned Germany in direct competition with Britain and France, both of which were conducting their own large-scale excavations. This created an atmosphere in which archaeology became a form of soft power, used to reinforce national prestige through cultural discovery.

The work of German archaeologists in the early 20th century has been criticized for various reasons. One of the main criticisms is that they were motivated by nationalist and imperialist interests and used archaeology to support these agendas. For example, some archaeologists saw themselves as uncovering the roots of a supposed Aryan race and used their work to support Nazi ideology. Another criticism is that German archaeologists were often more interested in exporting artifacts back to Germany rather than preserving them in the country of origin. This led to the removal of many important artifacts from their original context, which made it difficult for subsequent generations of archaeologists to properly study and interpret them. Additionally, some scholars have criticized German archaeologists for practicing a top-down approach to archaeology, which prioritizes the study of elites and high culture rather than the experiences of ordinary people. This approach can result in a skewed understanding of the past, which ignores the perspectives and contributions of marginalized groups.

By the late 1970s, the Iraqi government expressed a desire to repatriate the Ishtar Gate and other artifacts from the Pergamon Museum. However, the request was not granted, due to concerns about the safety and preservation of the artifacts, as well as disputes over ownership and legal claims.

If you’re curious to see more from the Pergamon Museum, I’ve shared a photo gallery just below.

More photos fom the PERGAMON MUSEUM

To my BERLIN site

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