A simple chowder for Good Friday

Good Friday is for many a fasting day. So it is for my parents, both around eighty today. As all-day fasting, like my mother did it in the past, does not come into play today, we had to think of some reasonable alternative. Our housekeeper, understanding well the traditional kitchen, proposed traditional dumplings on mushrooms and sauerkraut (>>>) for dinner. ‘I could make fish soup, the one I made after I came back from New Zealand’ was my response. So quite quickly the choice was clear, for Good Friday dinner we would have fish soup and dumplings as the second course.

What I meant however was not a fish soup that is traditionally prepared around the Baltic, but the chowder, a kind of seafood soup I caught up somewhere in New Zealand. As now I realize, the dish is well-known in many English-speaking countries, but somehow it was New Zealand, where I first tasted it. Funny, I can get all the ingredients needed for a simple chowder around the corner, but never ever before imagined that this combination may be so tasty.

To be frank, that what we ate in New Zealand, we considered a truly bad choice. It was the worst dinner we had there, but on that very evening, we barely had a choice. Restaurant kitchens close early in New Zealand. The chowder was recommended to us as a traditional dish, so I thought to myself, ‘maybe the cook had a bad day.’ After I came back home, I looked through the recipes on the internet and tried to repeat that, what I recalled. The main ingredients I remembered were fish, potatoes, and milk (or cream, or even both). And indeed, the recipe I have chosen and carefully applied, gave back a genuinely delicious as well as a nutritious meal.

Simple chowder, a traditional seafood and milk dish I tasted in New Zealand. Curious that although all the ingredients are traditional in the continental European kitchen, I needed to go down under to taste it the first time in my life.

The chowder I prepared for Good Friday is for sure not exactly the same I ate in New Zealand. Nevermind. Besides white fish fillet, potatoes, milk, and cream, I also added pieces of smoked salmon and raisins. The other ingredients were butter, onion, garlic, mustard as well as salt, pepper and parsley leaves.

A simple chowder for Good Friday

Tsukiji Fish Market

Japanese cuisine is renowned for its emphasis on freshness, seasonality, and presentation, with fish playing a central role. The Japanese preparation of fish is a fine art, reflecting a deep appreciation for texture, flavor, and aesthetic appeal. Traditionally, fish is enjoyed in various forms: sashimi (thinly sliced raw fish), sushi (vinegared rice paired with raw or cooked fish), grilled, steamed, and simmered dishes. The art of filleting fish, known as “ikijime,” ensures maximum freshness and flavor, involving precise techniques to dispatch the fish quickly and humanely. Seasoning is often subtle, employing soy sauce, wasabi, and miso to enhance the natural taste of the seafood without overpowering it. Presentation is equally important, with dishes arranged meticulously to delight both the palate and the eye.

In 2016 we had a chance to visit the interiors of the Inner Tsukiji Fish Market and see at close how fish was handled there to be quickly dispatched to restaurants that would use it the same or the next day.

The Tsukiji Fish Market, formerly located in Tsukiji in the Chūō ward of Tokyo, Japan, was one of the world’s largest wholesale fish and seafood markets, as well as one of the largest wholesale food markets of any kind. It was famous for its early morning tuna auctions, where giant tunas were bid on by buyers representing restaurants, wholesalers, and retailers from around the world. Tsukiji Market consisted of an inner market where most of the wholesale business and the famous tuna auctions took place, and an outer market that featured a mixture of wholesale and retail shops selling Japanese kitchen tools, restaurant supplies, groceries, and seafood.

In October 2018, the Tsukiji Inner Market was relocated to the new Toyosu Market, a few kilometers away, due to concerns about aging facilities, space constraints, and food safety. The Toyosu Market has continued the legacy of the Tsukiji Market, incorporating state-of-the-art facilities for both the wholesale market and the tuna auctions, while still attracting visitors and professionals from around the globe. The outer market of Tsukiji, known for its narrow lanes filled with tiny food stalls, restaurants, and shops selling fresh produce, kitchenware, and souvenirs, remains a popular tourist destination, offering a glimpse into Tokyo’s culinary culture.

Below some photo impressions of our 2016 visit.

Inner Tsukiji Fish Market seen in May 2016. In October 2018, the Tsukiji Inner Market was relocated to the new Toyosu Market, a few kilometers away.

The outer market of Tsukiji, still open for visitors

Tsukiji’s significance extends beyond its function as a seafood market. It has been a cultural landmark, reflecting Japan’s rich culinary traditions and its deep connection to the sea. Visitors to Tokyo often include Tsukiji in their itineraries to experience the vibrant food culture, sample fresh sushi and sashimi, and witness the bustling energy that has characterized the market for decades

 

Tsukiji Fish Market

A delicious evening New Zealand way

Accustomed to the European way of celebrating the evenings, when planning our New Zealand trip we did not take into account that restaurant kitchens close early down under. If you do not have your table and order around seven or half eight pm at the latest, you better hurry to a supermarket (still open at that hour) and be ready to make use of your hotel (motel) kitchen. The latter would not be a problem, as most of the hotels in New Zealand are lodge hotels where a living room is equipped with a kitchen. In the aftermath, during our two weeks trip, only five or six times we managed to eat correctly for supper outdoors.

My favorite one was not about a local specialty really – a good beef steak you may enjoy in many places. Still, on our last evening in New Zealand, we found ourselves in a real New Zealand steak house in Christchurch enjoying local beef and baked potatoes, sipping red wine and listening to live country and rock music.

As we entered the restaurant at around seven pm on a Friday evening, it was already full. And … around ten we were almost the last to go. Only the bar was still open.

It was a delicious evening in the New Zealand way.

A delicious evening New Zealand way