Japan Diaries 2.0. Japanese Shrines and Temples. A Note by an Absolute Beginner

During my first trip to Japan, I found myself surrounded by shrines and temples — each more striking than the last. But I quickly realised I couldn’t tell them apart. Was it Shinto? Was it Buddhist? Without a guide, I started learning by observing, taking notes, and later doing a bit of research. This post isn’t an expert take, just a beginner’s attempt to make sense of Japan’s sacred spaces — through what I saw, photographed, and slowly pieced together. Below, you’ll also find links to posts on shrines and temples I visited.

Buddhism that roots in India came to Japan from continental Asia. It is based on the teachings of Gautama Buddha and his successors. Shinto, on the other hand, is originally a Japanese ‘traditional religion’ based on the ancient belief in ancestors and deities. For centuries, the two confessions overlapped. Japan had times (XIX century, the so-called Meiji Restoration) of intensive politics to split Buddhism from Shinto or even disroot Buddhism as not originally the Japanese religion. Those efforts finally failed. Shinto and Buddhism coexist in Japanese culture. Many Japanese declare also being tied to both confessions. This religious coexistence seen is, however, not easy to tackle for an outsider.

A Shinto shrine may be a tiny spot marked by a torii (Japanese gate to a sacred place). It can, however, be a more significant complex of buildings, as well. A shrine is devoted to a specific deityEven if in the Western nomenclature we would call it a temple, it will still be called a shrine in Japan. (This is, of course, an English description. Japanese have many different names describing different kinds of shrines.) The most of the bigger (sometimes quite huge) religious building complexes we visited in Japan were, however, Buddhist temples. Buddhist temples belong to and are run by different schools of Buddhism (sects), and simultaneously play the role of a monastery, with interiors accessible only to few. This is possibly why I had the impression that temple complexes are somehow bigger (more widespread) than shrines, which is of course not a thumb rule.

At first sight, those bigger temple or shrine complexes seemed to us quite similar in construction pattern – widespread premises with many buildings and more or less complicated gates of comparable design. Now sitting at home comparing the pictures, recalling memories, and reading the information available on the Internet, I realize that they were not that similar at all. Some had statues inside, like those of the Buddha, or just gods or goddesses (deities), and the whole temple seemed to be organized around them. The others, however, were just sanctuaries with some objects inside, the figures (statues) even if the present did not play a central role. It turns out that these are the primary difference between a Buddhist and a Shinto temple or shrine.

Shinto shrines are sacred places, where a deity (kami) is present within objects stored there or in an object, around which the shrine was built (like a tree or a mountain). Contrary, to Buddhist temples, you may not find a reflection of a deity (god or goddess) in the form of sculpture inside a Shinto shrine. The very exception is animal guardians, usually in pairs, like lion-dogs, monkeys, and foxes, who are told to be the messengers of the deity. If you approach them, they will convey the message to the deity. Contrary, in the Buddhist temples, you will find bigger or smaller statues of Buddha, as well as some other symbolic figures and deities.

Japanese shrines and temples may have so many common characteristic features that only those well oriented can recognize the particular features at first sight.

In Japan, many of the old wooden buildings were entirely destroyed by fire, earthquakes, other disasters or as a result of political turmoil. Many of the buildings we admire today are not the originals, but the reconstructions made ages or not that long ago. The Japanese have a long tradition of rebuilding structures that have been damaged or destroyed. This process is often seen as an opportunity for renewal and improvement. We also visited at least one shrine complex (I know of) that was in full moved from one place to another. This can be due to urban development, infrastructure projects, or efforts to preserve cultural heritage.

One of the first Japanese words you learn, while visiting a shrine or monastery is torii (nouns in Japanese are used only in the singular form). Torii is a Japanese kind of symbolic gate marking the line, at which you trespass from the profane to the sacred ground. It is usually placed at an entrance to Japanese shrines and temples. In more significant shrines or monasteries, you will also find gates that mark the sacred ground that you recognize as a gate. But its construction is by far not like on the photo below. These are really solid and quite big gates. Similar symbolic gates may also be found in other Asian countries.

Torii, in general, is made of two pillars and two horizontal bars. The construction may be, however, more complicated or a simpler one. A very simple torii may be made of only two pillars linked with a rope (called shimenawa). Shimenawa may also be an addition to the traditional construction (as on the photo above). Torii may be made of wood, or stone, or concrete, or other materials. The most distinctive ones are those made of wood and painted with a red or orange tint (vermilion). Only some parts of a torii like footing and/or the upper lintel are painted black.

There can be a couple or quite many of torii gates in a shrine. They can be of different sizes. Each torii may mark the trespassing point to the following another sacred space.

Torii may also play a different role. In Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine complex in Kyoto (called shorter Oinarisan) torii are placed one after another forming long but long corridors. Walking beneath you feels like being in a tunnel. The torii in Oinarisan do not mark the sacred land. They had been offered to its deity by worshipers as a thank you for good fortune.

Torii and other buildings in Japanese shrines and temples are often covered with red (orange) tint called vermilion. This kind of tint contains mercury (mercuric sulfides), the size of which particles are decisive for the color. The bigger the particles, the more reddish the tint. The tint is said to protect the wood against insects, but this is not confirmed by all sources. Traditional manufacturing processes for vermilion involved grinding cinnabar, a red mineral, to produce the pigment. This process was indeed associated with the release of mercury vapors. However, due to the toxic nature of mercury, alternative pigments are now more commonly used in modern applications.

While the protective qualities of vermilion against insects are not universally confirmed, the color is believed to have symbolic protective attributes against spiritual and supernatural threats as the red color is told to protect against demons and illness. The symbolism is pretty much the same as of orange (red) clothing put on figures (statues).

Entering Japanese shrines and temples, or another kind of sacred land (like a cemetery) and paying respect to deities involves a series of rituals. I am sure I did not catch them all. Two were not difficult to notice. These were the purifying or cleansing rituals as well as paying respect by ringing a bell and clapping hands.

All Japanese shrines and temples, no matter Buddhist or Shinto are equipped with a symbolic cleansing facility. The cleansing may happen through the usage of water, fumes, sand, etc. So to begin with prayers or merely paying respect to the deity, you have to purify the body, at least symbolically.

In most shrines and temples, we saw stone sinks/basins, in which the worshipers or visitors could wash their hands and mouth. You take a kind of wooden spoon (see pictures), hold it in the right hand, and pour water onto your left hand, then the other way round. Carrying water in hand, you can also rinse your mouth. (For hygienic purposes, it is forbidden to take the spoon directly to your mouth.)

The other kind of the purifying ritual we saw mainly in Buddhist temples was by lightning an incense stick. The fragrant smoke is believed to purify the surroundings and create a sacred atmosphere conducive to meditation and prayer. The most common incense used in temples is agarwood, sandalwood, or aloeswood, chosen for their pleasing scents and spiritual significance. Devotees may perform a three-step ritual of bowing, lighting the incense, and placing it in a container filled with sand or ash, signifying reverence and humility.

Paying respect to a deity and praying includes ringing a bell and clapping hands. You do so by shaking a rope hanging down. Afterward, you have to bow and clap your hands. First, you ring, then you bow twice, clap your hands twice so that the deity is hearing you, then bow once. In the end, do not forget to put a coin into the offering box.

In a shrine or a temple (for a fee) you can also obtain lucky charms in the form of protective amulets and make wishes by hanging wooden votive plaques on special stands or discharge misfortune by leaving fortune-telling pieces/rolls of paper in the temple. We saw all of those practices in both Shinto and Buddhist temples (the exceptions I remember was the Zen Buddhist temples, but I can be wrong). I suppose this is a way how the temples finance some of their expenses.

protective amulet (called omamori) you simply buy, take with you, keep it by yourself or hang in your car, etc. This should protect you from a lousy fortune but also helps you to fulfill your wishes, find love, prosper in marriage, etc. Each omamori is dedicated to a specific deity or purpose, such as protection from accidents, success in studies, good health, business prosperity, love, and more. Omamori are usually valid for one year. After that period, it’s customary to return the old omamori to the shrine or temple where it was purchased, and a new one can be obtained for continued protection

On a votive plaque (called ema) you can write a wish (or it is already pre-written for you), and you hang it onto a special stand. Ema serve as a means to convey their wishes and prayers to the deities or spirits at the shrine. People write their hopes, dreams, and requests on the ema, seeking divine assistance or guidance. Ema typically have a distinctive shape, often resembling a small wooden board. The act of hanging the ema is symbolic, representing the offering of one’s wishes to the divine. The ema are often displayed in a communal area, creating a visually striking collection of wishes.

The rolls of paper (called omikuji) are a bit more complicated. Through some kind of a lottery (even if done by a vending machine) you obtain a small piece of paper. It reads you your fortune. The omikuji are often available in various categories, such as general fortune, love, health, and more. Fortunes can vary widely, ranging from very favorable to very unfavorable. After reading the fortune, it is common for visitors to tie the omikuji to a designated area near the shrine or temple. Tying the fortune is believed to either secure the positive aspects predicted or to ward off potential misfortune..

During more significant festivities in shrines (the Japanese celebrate many religious festivals), it is customary to drink sake, as a symbolic act of unification with gods. It is also customary that the sake producers donate barrels of sake to the shrine. As only as much sake is ordered as it is needed, some of the producers are asked to donate empty barrels for display purposes. Many shrines display empty barrels, sometimes seasonally, but sometimes permanently.

The ritual around breaking open the wooden lid on the top of the sake barrel is called kagamibiraki. It is performed during other kinds of festivities, as well, like to celebrate the New Year or during wedding parties. It symbolizes joy, good fortune, and the sharing of blessings.

In most Japanese Buddhist temples, it is forbidden to photograph the core interior of the main hall. Those places, if accessible for tourists, are well-marked as such. As I understand the very core of the temple is not a place of worship, but a place where the temple holds its most sacred objects. Besides, you may make as many photos as you want. Contrary to Europe, where photographing people delivering service in public is by definition not forbidden, in Japanese shrines and temples the monks or employees often give you a sign that they do not wish to be on the photo.  But it is not a thumb rule.

Japan Diaries 2.0. Japanese Shrines and Temples. A Note by an Absolute Beginner

Japan diaries 2.0. Late hours in Shinjuku

Japan, already a year ago. But looking through my original photos, I still discover petty memories that summed up changed for good my initial comprehension of Japan and the Japanese society.

During our two weeks trip, we spent four nights in Tokyo. Each of those days sooner or later in the evening, we went to Shinjuku, which is a special ward (kind of district) of Tokyo known for its nightlife. In popular language, Shinjuku is the area in the neighborhood of the Shinjuku railway station (considered the biggest in the world). People enjoy there the nightlife or to be precise late evenings as most commuter trains depart around midnight. People come there straight after work.

THE LIGHTS OF SHINJUKU

The first thing that attracted our attention as we arrived there for the first time was the street views full of colorful neon advertisements and the atmosphere, the noise, the crowds, and the party feeling. Below some pictures.

The streets of Shinjuku during night-time, only a few of many.

THE CITY OF CONTRASTS

If looking closely, Shinjuku is a place of contrasts. At first sight, the streets have a modern fleur. Office building, quite many lights, modern transport infrastructure including railway flyovers, very modern underground passages. In quite close neighborhood from the ‘neon’ streets, there are many elegant office skyscrapers and other office buildings like those on the photo below.

But if you look closer and visit some side streets full of small izakaya (restaurant and pub all in one), which are usually full of locals and tourists enjoying delicious food and alcoholic drinks you will see pictures you do not expect to see in that kind of modern place. They look like out of a different world.

An entrance to an izakaya in one of the side streets of Shinjuku. If you look closer on the left upper corner, you will see a small fragment of a railway flyover. The office district you can see in the picture above was just behind it. Would you believe it?

The inside of a small izakaya. I did this picture from the street, a quite narrow one, maybe of two meters width, quite close to the main roads that can be seen in the series of pictures above.

Of course, not all izakaya and restaurants look like that. Most of those in the main streets have quite a regular look. You will also find there many international and Japanese chain restaurants.

Inside a more regular Japanese style izakaya. The first one we visited in Japan. In one like that you will be asked to take off your shoes. I photographed it as we were about to leave. Only a quarter before the room was full of Japanese enjoying a drinking party. If you look closer, you can see the frames when movable panels may be installed. This way, the open space may be turned into private lounges. They are of course not soundproof, but still, you are among yourselves

SAKE FOR BEGINNERS

In all Japanese izakaya, you may drink sake, which is the traditional Japanese rice wine. Unlike typical wine, sake is produced in the brewing process (and not by fermentation). Sake may be drunk either cold or hot (warm). In most restaurants during our journey, we were served sake in simple glasses. However, while in Shinjuku, we visited one izakaya, where we knew the sake was served traditional way. We wanted the experience.

Cold sake served the traditional way.

We decided to try the sake served cold. The glasses were first put into small boxes. Then sake was richly poured into glasses, so it overran the glass edge. First, we were supposed to drink that what was inside the glass, then we drank the sake that overran either directly from the box or from the glass after pouring it back into it.

Of other Japanese alcoholic beverages, we tried in Japan were the Japanese beers (most popular), shochu (a kind of vodka made of rice), umeshu (plum wine) and Japanese whiskey.

A small hint: In Japan, you theoretically do not give tips. However, you are served some small appetizers of your host, choosing like the one on the picture, for which you will be billed.

THE DRINKING PROBLEM

Japanese drink much alcohol, one may say too much. However, the alcohol consumption per capita in this country fell in recent 20 years or so. Tokyo ranks top on the alcohol consumption map. Drinking parties, among co-workers, are considered as a way to bond and build a team. Although Japan is quite low in international comparisons that assess the consumption of pure alcohol per capita (around 70th position), looking at that what is going on in Shinjuku one can only confirm the opinions that the Japanese have a drinking problem. Our observation was that unlike here at home (our country ranks much higher in those ranking lists than Japan), this may lay in constant drinking parties (a couple of those a week) and weaker heads. But this is only speculation.

White-collar, who seemingly missed the train home. I made this picture in one of the major Japanese cities at the entrance to bank premises. Around 8 am.

The late trains from Shinjuku are full of more or less sober people. But often you can see white collars indeed very drunk, barely keeping straight. Sometimes they do not manage to take the last train like this one on the picture. The view like that is rare, but not unusual.

 

 

Japan diaries 2.0. Late hours in Shinjuku

Learning Japan and Japanese culture

Learning a foreign country and culture, while traveling has its limits. I spent some time in two foreign countries living there for a while. I have lived through a culture shock. I finally returned home. Learning while traveling is different. Being a European, having a cable or satellite TV, speaking or just understanding several languages, while traveling in Europe, we are usually aware of many differences. But with any trip to another continent, we bring back more than only pictures of beautiful places to see.

I already posted several on Japan, but still, find photos I would like to comment just to remember things. It is about impressions about what I considered common knowledge and confirmed on the spot or about things absolutely new to me. So, below some aspects of the day-to-day Japanese culture I noticed in Japan.

Izakaya. A traditional Japanese pub or tavern that offers a casual and social atmosphere. I took this picture on our second evening in Tokyo. Believe it or not, but it was in Shinjuku, the Tokyo office district with skyscrapers all around. We went there to enjoy our first sake served traditional way (>>>). As far as I can recall, this one was located under a railway flyover. The contrast was incredible.

Japanese work till late hours. Instead of hurrying back home, they go out with their co-workers to grab a bite, but also to drink, and these are barely soft drinks they enjoy. And the Japanese have a drinking problem. You can often see drunken or half-drunken white collars taking last night trains home. But sometimes they do not manage to take the last train like this one on the picture. So they spend the night somewhere in the city center. I made this shot around 8 am in one of the leading Japanese cities at the main entrance to bank premises.

That Japanese like toys and animated movies (called anime), it is common knowledge. Toy shops, pachinko (game plazas) are everywhere. Toys hold a significant cultural value in Japan, with a rich history of traditional toys like kites, dolls, and kendama, as well as a thriving market for modern toys and collectibles. Anime, a distinctive style of animated film and television, has become a global phenomenon, but it originated in Japan and is deeply ingrained in the Japanese culture. Japanese audiences, of all ages, have a strong affinity for anime due to its diverse genres, compelling storytelling, and unique artistic styles. Anime characters often become cultural icons, and merchandise such as action figures, plush toys, and other collectibles based on these characters are widely popular. On the picture above a fraction of a poster, I saw at the front of the bank. A credit card with anime figures on it. Cute.

Very light housing and a jungle of power cables flying over everywhere. In comparison to city centers with skyscrapers, the average city district or a suburb looks like the one on the picture above. I think the kind of buildings has something to do with earthquakes that can destroy everything in a minute or the contrary, lighter houses are earthquake resistant. But the power grid looking like that (absolutely typical) is an absolute contrast to the excellent infrastructure you see everywhere in Japan.

Colorful street decorations, festivals, and … many symbols where you do not expect them are another feature of the Japanese culture. The street decoration on the picture above is koinobori – windsocks that represent carps, a national symbol. The carp is capable of moving up-stream. Thus it is a symbol of perseverance and strength. Koinobori displayed around a house, tell you how many family members live inside, sizes and colors will tell you, who they are (>>>).

The kids in uniforms just out of school. You see many of them walking in small groups around the streets or journeying in public transport, no matter whether in small villages or great cities. They seem to be very self-reliant. On the other hand, Japan appears to be a very safe and reliant country, and there are always people around you that are ready to assist.

People in white gloves, no matter whether in public transport or in the streets. They are there to keep an eye, provide for order, and assist you, always very polite. There are many of them employed by the Japanese railway companies. We often also saw people who were standing in the streets around a construction site and were assisting people in going around the site. Even at the exits of car parks in the malls, people were stopping the cars to give passage to pedestrians.

When talking white gloves and public transport in Japan, it is impolite to touch people or get too close. Also, loud talking in public transport means it is considered rude. Japanese people use their smartphones in public transport, however very rarely you see or hear a person talking. They just read or send messages. It is worth to remember it.

The public transport, comfortable and efficient. No matter whether a Shinkansen or a local train. The public transport is expensive, but if you are a tourist, you can buy a railway pass. It is valid for most trains – you just pay a lump sum depending on the duration of your stay in Japan. Of things worth to know – the air conditioning is of excellent quality. So even in the hot summer season, it is good to have something with long sleeves.

By the way, the Japanese do not like to sunbathe. The pale skin is of value. Even on hot days you will see people fully covered, women often in gloves and with hats of a different kind on their heads.

Shinto, Buddhism, and shrines. Japanese have a specific attitude to religion. As I understand, there is nothing there like church-going, but Japanese like to pay respect to deities no matter whether Shinto or Buddhist. And there are many different kinds of charms you can buy and carry with you or just leave in the shrine in a particular place (>>>).

Yukata and kimono. A traditional kimono consists of many layers. Its purest form (looking a bit like a housecoat) is called yukata. You can see people dressed traditional way in the streets and in public transit. As I understand, traditional clothing is considered a casual but elegant one in the contemporary Japanese culture. Of course, there are exquisite traditional dresses, too (>>>). On our first days, we tried to secretly or more openly photograph people dressed traditional way. After a couple of days, we had so many photos that we stopped doing it.

Aesthetics. Japanese are very aesthetic and clean people. Aesthetics play a profound role in Japanese culture, influencing various aspects of daily life. The Japanese people have a strong appreciation for beauty, simplicity, and harmony, which is evident in their approach to various elements, including gardens, public spaces, interiors, clothing, and personal hygiene. You do not see any devastation in the streets, people do not smell around, you can easily find a restroom everywhere. If you are in a hotel, you have all the possible cosmetics in significant quantities around you, always a single-use shaver and toothbrush with a small toothpaste tube. In that respect, Japan is a very comfortable country to visit.

 

Learning Japan and Japanese culture