Milford Sound

New Zealand is famous for its beautiful landscapes, natural wonders and the well-organized outdoor activities offered to locals and tourists. If you travel from the North to the South and back, you will notice changing landscapes. And by far, New Zealand is not only the overwhelming landscapes that we know from ‘The Lord of the Rings’ or ‘The Hobbit’. It is many more. I have already covered some of the natural wonders we had visited during our New Zealand tour.

Today it is time for the cherry, a spot listed by some as one of the most beautiful tourist destinations worldwide.

It is the Milford Sound or Piopiotahi in native Maori, a fifteen kilometers long fjord located on the West Coast of New Zealand South Island. It is by far not the only place worldwide where we can find a long strait of water surrounded by hills or mountains formed thousands but thousands of years ago by a glacier. Yet the Milford Sound is unique – many of the mountains surrounding it are more than 1,000 meters high. Some even are between 1,200 and 1,500 m. The panorama views are truly impressive, but wait till you approach by a boat an almost vertical wall of one km height. That is really overwhelming!

The very panorama of Milford Sound you can see on many pictures on the internet, seen from the Dale Point located at its end deep in inland. If you want to catch it on a photo, it is advisable to make it in the morning. Afternoon photos would be against the sun. Photo by Pexels.

The Milford Sound starts at the Tasman Sea (the one that divides New Zealand from Australia) and ends at the Dale Point (photo above). The entry from the Tasman Sea, starting at a wide bay, is, in fact, a narrow strait located behind a mountain to its left. It is that hidden that during the first European expeditions to New Zealand, it was overlooked many times by the sailors. The high mountainsides of the fjord optically overlap the way, that from away you would not say that there is a water passage between the mountains that leads fifteen km deep into the island.

The entry to Milford Sound from the Tasman Sea. You can see one mountain formation beyond another. The photo even got two-dimensional. In fact, between the first mountain and the second one, there is one of the Milford Sound narrow straits. On the last photo, the approach to Milford Sound from the Tasman Sea as you turn left being already inside the bay.

The inland way to the Milford Sounds starts in Te-Anau, a small city located at an azure-water lake.

There are several viewpoints at which you can stop on the way. The first one is the Mirror Lakes. Their clear water and light conditions above them give back a clear reflection of the surrounding mountains in the water mirror. Hence, their name. The Mirror Lakes are relatively small. You can look at them from a catwalk made for visitors that is densely surrounded by bushes. Making ‘clean’ photos is not possible. But still, the lakes are an eye-catcher. A place worth to stop, with only a short approach time of several minutes from the roadside car park.

We had been there twice, once on approach to the Milford Sound, the other time as we were leaving the area the next day in the early morning. As the surrounding mountains were ahead on the rising sun, we saw the orange mountain peaks in the lake mirrors. An outstanding view, by far not reflected by photos we made.

Mirror lakes, a real eye-catcher on the way from Te-Anau to Milford Sound. In the last photo, Mirror Lakes in the early morning sun at 7.00, maybe 8.00 am. Watch the orange mountain peaks reflected in the water and behind the bushes the morning fog over the wet fields of the Te-Anau region.

The other stop was at the entry to the Hommer Tunnel, on the only paved road in and out the Milford Sound. The place is known not only for outstanding mountain views but also for magnificent waterfalls at its left-hand side. The viewpoint, as we visited it, was full of tourists. We saw the whole waterfall from the roadside. But we did not take time to approach it at the close. This would be maybe a quarter there and back. I realized how huge the waterfall was only back home while processing photos and comparing its size with the size of people standing below.

The waterfall. On the first photo, a closeup.

A real highlight of the Milford Sound stay is a boat ride alongside Milford Sound fjord. These are two-hours of splendid views on the way there and back to the Tasman Sea. You can also make the same route kayaking. If you want to make the whole route, you must be, however, quite fit physically. Yet another alternative is a helicopter flight over the Milford Sound and the mountains surrounding the fjord.

Milford Sound seen from the Dale Point quay, where we started our boat trip and later inside the fjord.  The last photo is a view onto the Tasman Sea.

For a moment, our boat was accompanied by a herd of dolphins. It was like in the movies. Five or six of them, maybe more, were jumping over the water alongside our ship accompanying us for a mile or more. Gorgeous they were. But challenging to catch on a photo.

The boat trip was organized to provide visitors with more than only a boat ride experience. Each time something was interesting to see at the coastline, a guide was explaining it using a loudspeaker. You could have heard him even through the loud humming of waters while standing on the stern. The boat driver often approached the coastline and stopped for a moment to allow us to make pictures at the close.

Milford Sound seals resting on a warm rock.

During the boat ride, we saw numerous waterfalls. You could have seen with your naked eye multiple rainbows that formed around the falling waters. Milford Sound waterfalls are either steady ones (at least two of them), or they emerge after heavy rains. As the mountains surrounding the fjord are very high, the Milford Sound count to the highest waterfalls worldwide. The boat driver approached a couple of times waterfalls putting the stern midst the falling streams of water and let those willing to do so shower under a rainbow. One kind of experience, indeed. The fun was outstanding.

A shower under a rainbow in waterfall waters.

I made numerous photos while on the boat. But only a few of them got right. Milford Sound is beautiful, but like many other beautiful spots in New Zealand, it is not photogenic, unless you are lucky to get the proper sunlight conditions. I needed much enhancing to make them look as they look like. Still, the result is absolutely not reflecting the experience of being inside a fjord with some mountain walls of one-kilometer height or higher.

Coming to Milford Sound you must make a decision, whether you want to stay there at one of the numerous official or wild camping sites or you want to stay at Te-Anau. A night-in-a-tent experience midst of beautiful landscapes is always quite lovely. But in Milford Sound, it can quickly turn into something exhausting. The place is known for frequent and heavy precipitation. It is raining there for at least three hundred days a year. The rain is sometimes so intense that water streams and waterfalls just emerge seemingly out of nothing. So you may find yourself under a tent with streams of water around you or waking up in a deep wet frog instead of in warm morning sun. There is always a possibility to spend a night at one of the cottages offered for rent close to Milford Sound or within less than one-hour ride from the fjord. Yet, the supply is minimal. If you want to do so, you need to book it in an extended advance.

For some different reasons than the rain, our overnight stay there was not a pleasant one. Still, I must say that as I found myself waking up at around 2 am in a forest under a deep dark blue sky with thousands of stars shining at the full glace and was walking alone at the sleeping camping side for a long moment, the feeling was genuinely great even that I was on a fever with lack of good night sleep for a couple of consecutive nights. As besides harmless possums, there are no dangerous animals in New Zealand, I could have still enjoyed the surroundings in relative comfort. Still, with less than two-hour ride from T-Anau, I would prefer to make ourselves a long evening with a barbecue but again, come back to T-Anau to stay overnight. New Zealand has much too offer. Being tired of an overnight stay can only spoil a journey.

The morning frog in the Te-Anau area

There is still yet another alternative for a stay in Milford Sound. These are trekking paths in the Milford Sound mountains that you can take for three or five days (the routes are defined by the authorities). It is not allowed to camp freely there. All tourists staying the night are obliged to use official shelters. The number of beds is limited. You must make reservations ahead to be allowed to enter. The living conditions are quite spartan ones, but in return, you get the authentic nature experience under a shelter that protects you from the rain. Trekking in Milford Sound mountains is allowed only in the Summer season. In wintertime, some of the facilities, including bridge passages, are disassembled.

Some other hints: Milford Sound is a reservation with no or very weak Internet access. Also, phones may not function even close to a road. Staying there for a longer time, you must be prepared for that. Flying drones to make photos is allowed only under a permit, that you can get in Te-Anau at the latest. If you are already in the reservation, there is no spot you can apply for. It is neither at the Dale Point. The reservation guards are very efficient in spotting drones. Already close to Milford Sound, we saw two guys flying a drone for a short moment. But out of the blue, two guards appeared asking them for a permit. Ultimately, a fine was charged.

 

Milford Sound

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri

New Zealand is known for its natural wonders. One of them is well advertised Waitomo glowworm caves located in the New Zealand North Island. The caves are known for their unique natural phenomena, created by thousands of glowworms that inhabit them. The glowworms emit a blue-green light that creates a magical effect in the dark underground cave environment.

To see the glow worms, one has to stay in the dark. No photos are allowed there. Only in the first cave, where the guide explains what you see and will see, for a moment, lights are on, so you can see how the glow worms look like in light. The highlight is a boat ride in the dark in a cave. Its ceiling is fully covered with glowworms. You raise your head up and feel like you under a night sky, but somehow the stars are closer to you. You are requested full silence while there. Unforgettable feeling.

As I do not have a habit to break the rules and make photos where it is not allowed, I asked the AI to recreate what I saw. The picture reflects that what I remember from Waiotomo caves (an addition of 2024).

But the sightseeing of the glow-worm caves, including descent, lasts only 45 minutes. The boat ride maybe only a quarter. To get to the caves, we made an extra 350 km there and back, which meant more than four hours in the van. As we arrived at Waitomo, I realized that our planned schedule is only 45 minutes of sightseeing. In a spur of the moment, I decided to make a surcharge on the original ticket (reserved some time ago from at home) and visit another complex of caves called Ruakuri caves located around two km distance from the main cave. In the aftermath, an excellent decision. To see the main glow-worm cave was fascinating, but only after visiting the other complex of caves, I went out fully satisfied with how I spent my day. The sightseeing lasted around one hour and a half. They went by before I have noticed it.

The caves feature a series of limestone formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstones, which have been formed over millions of years. The Ruakuri Caves are named after the legendary Maori chief Ruakuri, who is said to have discovered the cave system over 400 years ago. Ruakuri means “den of dogs”.

The Ruakuri caves are located 60 meters below the surface. The descent lasts around five minutes alongside a round path made inside a huge well. Before the descent, our guide explained to us the strict safety and environmental protection rules we had to follow. Ruakuri Cave is advertised as the New Zealand’s longest guided underground walking tour. What is interesting, its catwalks are wheel-chair accessible. Going down within several minutes, you feel the temperature decreases by many grades.

The path down to the Ruakuri caves. You feel like descending into a huge well.

Exploring caves of Ruakuri involves walking on catwalks that had been installed inside the caves. Alongside some of the catwalks, there are movement detectors installed that catch any movement outside the path. The system was designed so that the tourists do not touch any of the rock formations. Huge fines await those who would destroy even a piece of the rock formations. One of the unique features of the Ruakuri Cave tour is the use of innovative lighting systems, which illuminate the cave’s natural features while minimizing the impact on the cave’s delicate ecosystem. It allows the ecosystem to stay in the dark for most of the time. Small lights red, blue, or white are installed alongside the catwalk paths. From time to time, the whole group stops under a rock formation. The guide is then turning on white lights so that you can admire the formations and take photos. Basically, making photos is allowed all the time. The only exception, as I remember, is a glow-worm cave, where you are requested to walk in the darkness keeping your hand on your predecessor’s shoulder. After reaching the cave, you are asked to stop for a while. Silence is requested, too. Unforgettable feeling. Another attraction you admire only in the darkness is a waterfall. For a moment, you stop and listen to falling waters. You may only try to imagine how it looks like. Later you are explained that it is ‘only’ of one and a half meter high. But the acoustics in the caves is that outstanding that you would easily believe it is much bigger.

The catwalks inside the Ruakuri caves.

The rocks formations are mostly limestone. They are, however, of different shapes. As lights turned on by the guide are of different colors, I cannot confirm that what you may see on the photos below is the actual colors.

Just a selection of photos I made while exploring caves of Ruakuri

The Ruakuri caves include several chambers with glowworms. There are at least two spots where the guide turns on the light. First, you see the worms glowing in the darkness, and later you may see the same formation in the light. The glow-worms are in fact like twines hanging down, the ends of which are glowing in the darkness. If in the main Waitomo cave, you feel disappointed that you cannot take photos to remember the trip, you will have an occasion to make them freely in the Ruakuri caves.

A small glowworm formation in the dark (on the left) and in the flashlight (on the right).

The man-made underground path allows for exploring caves to everyone, not just those specializing in extreme caving, but really anyone who would like to admire the natural wonders located underground from a safe vantage point.

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri

Champagne Pool and Geothermal Marvels at Wai-O-Tapu, New Zealand

Travelling New Zealand, you either contemplate great and often breathtaking nature wonders or live thought some extreme man-made pastime ideas. You can also learn about the country heritage – the Maori culture and  Western culture settlement history. Not including the local dishes, wine, and cheeses, of course.

One of those natural wonders you can contemplate is undoubtedly Wai-O-Tapu, the so-called Thermal Wonderland. Wai-O-Tapu is located in the Taupo Volcanic Zone on the North Island of New Zealand. This region is one of the most geothermally active areas in the world, with Wai-O-Tapu being part of the larger Taupo volcanic system, formed over 160,000 years ago due to intense volcanic activity. The ongoing geothermal processes continue to shape the landscape, making it a dynamic and ever-changing site. Wai-O-Tapu is a protected reservation covered by collapsed craters, colorful geothermal pools, bubbling mud pools, and dramatic geysers. The pools vary in size, shape, and color, with hues ranging from vibrant greens and oranges to deep blues and reds.

You walk through a forest and bushes up and down the hill. From time to time, you stop at a lake or a crater with an unusual color, ranging from dark mud to candy green or blue. As many of the waters are hot, steam is sometimes all around you. Given the high temperatures of the geothermal pools and the presence of toxic gases, it’s crucial to stay on the designated paths and avoid getting too close to the edges of the pools. The area is well-marked with safety signs, so be sure to follow them for the own safety.

The absolute highlight is the Champagne Pool, with its hot and sparkling deep blue-green water surrounded by orange fossils. Walking the paths of Wai-O-Tapu, you will see it from various perspectives. How powerful it is can be felt on your way back as you have to pass carefully by through the fumes that come with its bubbles. Its colors are so seducing that you feel a desperate need to stay, watch, and take photos. Yes, indeed, the Champagne Pool is toxic in the actual sense of the word. It gets its name from the constant efflux of carbon dioxide gas, which causes the water to bubble like champagne. The vibrant colors seen in and around the pool are due to the various minerals dissolved in the water. The pool’s deep blue-green water contrasts with the bright orange deposits of arsenic and antimony on the rim, creating a stunning and surreal landscape.

The Champagne pool of Wai-O-Tapu

The place is excellent for taking photos. The colors you see in pictures are the colors you see in reality. Wai-O-Tapu is on a definite must-see list while in New Zealand. It’s advisable to reserve at least 2-3 hours to fully explore Wai-O-Tapu, as there are many unique features to see. Wai-O-Tapu has a visitor center with facilities including restrooms, a café, and a gift shop where you can buy souvenirs. The site is about a 30-minute drive from Rotorua.

Below some photo impressions made within only two hours of a slow walk.

Wai-O-Tapu is a Maori name that translates to sacred waters. The name reflects the area’s importance to the local Maori people, who have a deep spiritual connection to the land and its geothermal features.

The Maori are the indigenous Polynesian people of New Zealand, known for their rich culture, traditions, and strong connection to the natural world. They arrived in New Zealand over a thousand years ago and have since developed a unique cultural identity, characterized by their language (te reo Māori), customs, and art forms like carving and weaving.

The area around the reservation has been considered a sacred site for centuries, with the Maori people using the hot springs and geothermal features for bathing, cooking, and healing. The Maori also have a profound spiritual belief system, where they see themselves as kaitiaki (guardians) of the land. They believe that the area is home to spiritual entities, including guardians and ancestors, and that the natural phenomena are a manifestation of their presence. These beliefs underscore the respect and reverence they have for Wai-O-Tapu, seeing it not just as a physical place but as a living entity imbued with spiritual significance.

Champagne Pool and Geothermal Marvels at Wai-O-Tapu, New Zealand