A simple chowder for Good Friday

Good Friday is for many a fasting day. So it is for my parents, both around eighty today. As all-day fasting, like my mother did it in the past, does not come into play today, we had to think of some reasonable alternative. Our housekeeper, understanding well the traditional kitchen, proposed traditional dumplings on mushrooms and sauerkraut (>>>) for dinner. ‘I could make fish soup, the one I made after I came back from New Zealand’ was my response. So quite quickly the choice was clear, for Good Friday dinner we would have fish soup and dumplings as the second course.

What I meant however was not a fish soup that is traditionally prepared around the Baltic, but the chowder, a kind of seafood soup I caught up somewhere in New Zealand. As now I realize, the dish is well-known in many English-speaking countries, but somehow it was New Zealand, where I first tasted it. Funny, I can get all the ingredients needed for a simple chowder around the corner, but never ever before imagined that this combination may be so tasty.

To be frank, that what we ate in New Zealand, we considered a truly bad choice. It was the worst dinner we had there, but on that very evening, we barely had a choice. Restaurant kitchens close early in New Zealand. The chowder was recommended to us as a traditional dish, so I thought to myself, ‘maybe the cook had a bad day.’ After I came back home, I looked through the recipes on the internet and tried to repeat that, what I recalled. The main ingredients I remembered were fish, potatoes, and milk (or cream, or even both). And indeed, the recipe I have chosen and carefully applied, gave back a genuinely delicious as well as a nutritious meal.

Simple chowder, a traditional seafood and milk dish I tasted in New Zealand. Curious that although all the ingredients are traditional in the continental European kitchen, I needed to go down under to taste it the first time in my life.

The chowder I prepared for Good Friday is for sure not exactly the same I ate in New Zealand. Nevermind. Besides white fish fillet, potatoes, milk, and cream, I also added pieces of smoked salmon and raisins. The other ingredients were butter, onion, garlic, mustard as well as salt, pepper and parsley leaves.

A simple chowder for Good Friday

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri

New Zealand is known for its natural wonders. One of them is well advertised Waitomo glowworm caves located in the New Zealand North Island. The caves are known for their unique natural phenomena, created by thousands of glowworms that inhabit them. The glowworms emit a blue-green light that creates a magical effect in the dark underground cave environment.

To see the glow worms, one has to stay in the dark. No photos are allowed there. Only in the first cave, where the guide explains what you see and will see, for a moment, lights are on, so you can see how the glow worms look like in light. The highlight is a boat ride in the dark in a cave. Its ceiling is fully covered with glowworms. You raise your head up and feel like you under a night sky, but somehow the stars are closer to you. You are requested full silence while there. Unforgettable feeling.

As I do not have a habit to break the rules and make photos where it is not allowed, I asked the AI to recreate what I saw. The picture reflects that what I remember from Waiotomo caves (an addition of 2024).

But the sightseeing of the glow-worm caves, including descent, lasts only 45 minutes. The boat ride maybe only a quarter. To get to the caves, we made an extra 350 km there and back, which meant more than four hours in the van. As we arrived at Waitomo, I realized that our planned schedule is only 45 minutes of sightseeing. In a spur of the moment, I decided to make a surcharge on the original ticket (reserved some time ago from at home) and visit another complex of caves called Ruakuri caves located around two km distance from the main cave. In the aftermath, an excellent decision. To see the main glow-worm cave was fascinating, but only after visiting the other complex of caves, I went out fully satisfied with how I spent my day. The sightseeing lasted around one hour and a half. They went by before I have noticed it.

The caves feature a series of limestone formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstones, which have been formed over millions of years. The Ruakuri Caves are named after the legendary Maori chief Ruakuri, who is said to have discovered the cave system over 400 years ago. Ruakuri means “den of dogs”.

The Ruakuri caves are located 60 meters below the surface. The descent lasts around five minutes alongside a round path made inside a huge well. Before the descent, our guide explained to us the strict safety and environmental protection rules we had to follow. Ruakuri Cave is advertised as the New Zealand’s longest guided underground walking tour. What is interesting, its catwalks are wheel-chair accessible. Going down within several minutes, you feel the temperature decreases by many grades.

The path down to the Ruakuri caves. You feel like descending into a huge well.

Exploring caves of Ruakuri involves walking on catwalks that had been installed inside the caves. Alongside some of the catwalks, there are movement detectors installed that catch any movement outside the path. The system was designed so that the tourists do not touch any of the rock formations. Huge fines await those who would destroy even a piece of the rock formations. One of the unique features of the Ruakuri Cave tour is the use of innovative lighting systems, which illuminate the cave’s natural features while minimizing the impact on the cave’s delicate ecosystem. It allows the ecosystem to stay in the dark for most of the time. Small lights red, blue, or white are installed alongside the catwalk paths. From time to time, the whole group stops under a rock formation. The guide is then turning on white lights so that you can admire the formations and take photos. Basically, making photos is allowed all the time. The only exception, as I remember, is a glow-worm cave, where you are requested to walk in the darkness keeping your hand on your predecessor’s shoulder. After reaching the cave, you are asked to stop for a while. Silence is requested, too. Unforgettable feeling. Another attraction you admire only in the darkness is a waterfall. For a moment, you stop and listen to falling waters. You may only try to imagine how it looks like. Later you are explained that it is ‘only’ of one and a half meter high. But the acoustics in the caves is that outstanding that you would easily believe it is much bigger.

The catwalks inside the Ruakuri caves.

The rocks formations are mostly limestone. They are, however, of different shapes. As lights turned on by the guide are of different colors, I cannot confirm that what you may see on the photos below is the actual colors.

Just a selection of photos I made while exploring caves of Ruakuri

The Ruakuri caves include several chambers with glowworms. There are at least two spots where the guide turns on the light. First, you see the worms glowing in the darkness, and later you may see the same formation in the light. The glow-worms are in fact like twines hanging down, the ends of which are glowing in the darkness. If in the main Waitomo cave, you feel disappointed that you cannot take photos to remember the trip, you will have an occasion to make them freely in the Ruakuri caves.

A small glowworm formation in the dark (on the left) and in the flashlight (on the right).

The man-made underground path allows for exploring caves to everyone, not just those specializing in extreme caving, but really anyone who would like to admire the natural wonders located underground from a safe vantage point.

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri

Champagne Pool and Geothermal Marvels at Wai-O-Tapu, New Zealand

Travelling New Zealand, you either contemplate great and often breathtaking nature wonders or live thought some extreme man-made pastime ideas. You can also learn about the country heritage – the Maori culture and  Western culture settlement history. Not including the local dishes, wine, and cheeses, of course.

One of those natural wonders you can contemplate is undoubtedly Wai-O-Tapu, the so-called Thermal Wonderland. Wai-O-Tapu is located in the Taupo Volcanic Zone on the North Island of New Zealand. This region is one of the most geothermally active areas in the world, with Wai-O-Tapu being part of the larger Taupo volcanic system, formed over 160,000 years ago due to intense volcanic activity. The ongoing geothermal processes continue to shape the landscape, making it a dynamic and ever-changing site. Wai-O-Tapu is a protected reservation covered by collapsed craters, colorful geothermal pools, bubbling mud pools, and dramatic geysers. The pools vary in size, shape, and color, with hues ranging from vibrant greens and oranges to deep blues and reds.

You walk through a forest and bushes up and down the hill. From time to time, you stop at a lake or a crater with an unusual color, ranging from dark mud to candy green or blue. As many of the waters are hot, steam is sometimes all around you. Given the high temperatures of the geothermal pools and the presence of toxic gases, it’s crucial to stay on the designated paths and avoid getting too close to the edges of the pools. The area is well-marked with safety signs, so be sure to follow them for the own safety.

The absolute highlight is the Champagne Pool, with its hot and sparkling deep blue-green water surrounded by orange fossils. Walking the paths of Wai-O-Tapu, you will see it from various perspectives. How powerful it is can be felt on your way back as you have to pass carefully by through the fumes that come with its bubbles. Its colors are so seducing that you feel a desperate need to stay, watch, and take photos. Yes, indeed, the Champagne Pool is toxic in the actual sense of the word. It gets its name from the constant efflux of carbon dioxide gas, which causes the water to bubble like champagne. The vibrant colors seen in and around the pool are due to the various minerals dissolved in the water. The pool’s deep blue-green water contrasts with the bright orange deposits of arsenic and antimony on the rim, creating a stunning and surreal landscape.

The Champagne pool of Wai-O-Tapu

The place is excellent for taking photos. The colors you see in pictures are the colors you see in reality. Wai-O-Tapu is on a definite must-see list while in New Zealand. It’s advisable to reserve at least 2-3 hours to fully explore Wai-O-Tapu, as there are many unique features to see. Wai-O-Tapu has a visitor center with facilities including restrooms, a café, and a gift shop where you can buy souvenirs. The site is about a 30-minute drive from Rotorua.

Below some photo impressions made within only two hours of a slow walk.

Wai-O-Tapu is a Maori name that translates to sacred waters. The name reflects the area’s importance to the local Maori people, who have a deep spiritual connection to the land and its geothermal features.

The Maori are the indigenous Polynesian people of New Zealand, known for their rich culture, traditions, and strong connection to the natural world. They arrived in New Zealand over a thousand years ago and have since developed a unique cultural identity, characterized by their language (te reo Māori), customs, and art forms like carving and weaving.

The area around the reservation has been considered a sacred site for centuries, with the Maori people using the hot springs and geothermal features for bathing, cooking, and healing. The Maori also have a profound spiritual belief system, where they see themselves as kaitiaki (guardians) of the land. They believe that the area is home to spiritual entities, including guardians and ancestors, and that the natural phenomena are a manifestation of their presence. These beliefs underscore the respect and reverence they have for Wai-O-Tapu, seeing it not just as a physical place but as a living entity imbued with spiritual significance.

Champagne Pool and Geothermal Marvels at Wai-O-Tapu, New Zealand