The Haka

The haka is a traditional Māori war dance from New Zealand, originally performed by warriors before a battle, showcasing their prowess and unity as a way to intimidate opponents. Over time, the haka evolved beyond its martial roots to serve various social functions within Māori culture. It is performed at ceremonies and celebrations, including weddings and funerals, to honor guests and show the community’s pride or grief.

Characterized by vigorous movements, rhythmic stomping with the feet, and the chanting of a loud and rhythmic chant, the haka involves synchronized body slapping and facial expressions, such as protruding tongues and fierce eye movements, which convey the intensity of emotions.

Forms of the haka, or similar ritual dances and chants, were present in various Polynesian cultures before the Māori developed their distinctive version in New Zealand. The Polynesian ancestors of the Māori brought with them a variety of traditional chants and dances when they migrated to New Zealand from other Polynesian islands, such as Hawaii, Tahiti, and the Cook Islands, around the 13th century. In New Zealand, these ancestral Polynesian practices gradually evolved into the haka as known today, influenced by the unique conditions and needs of the Māori. While each Polynesian culture has its distinct form of dance and chant, the haka is specifically a Māori adaptation that has become globally recognized.

The most recognized haka, Ka Mate, attributed to Chief Te Rauparaha of the Ngāti Toa tribe, gained international fame through its adoption by New Zealand sports teams, notably the All Blacks rugby team, who perform it before international matches. The All Blacks have also developed a new haka called Kapa o Pango. It was first performed in 2005 and is distinct from the more traditional Ka Mate haka that had been performed by the team since 1905. Kapa o Pango is intended to reflect the team’s heritage, culture, and identity. The haka was created by Derek Lardelli, a renowned Māori cultural advisor and haka expert. The words and actions of Kapa o Pango are designed to emphasize the team’s connection to New Zealand and the pride they carry as representatives of their country. Unlike Ka Mate, which is a celebration of life and vitality, Kapa o Pango focuses on the team’s determination and challenges.

This practice has popularized the haka globally, transforming it into a symbol of New Zealand’s national identity and a display of unity and respect, reflecting the deep-rooted traditions and values of the Māori people.

The Haka

A simple chowder for Good Friday

Good Friday is for many a fasting day. So it is for my parents, both around eighty today. As all-day fasting, like my mother did it in the past, does not come into play today, we had to think of some reasonable alternative. Our housekeeper, understanding well the traditional kitchen, proposed traditional dumplings on mushrooms and sauerkraut (>>>) for dinner. ‘I could make fish soup, the one I made after I came back from New Zealand’ was my response. So quite quickly the choice was clear, for Good Friday dinner we would have fish soup and dumplings as the second course.

What I meant however was not a fish soup that is traditionally prepared around the Baltic, but the chowder, a kind of seafood soup I caught up somewhere in New Zealand. As now I realize, the dish is well-known in many English-speaking countries, but somehow it was New Zealand, where I first tasted it. Funny, I can get all the ingredients needed for a simple chowder around the corner, but never ever before imagined that this combination may be so tasty.

To be frank, that what we ate in New Zealand, we considered a truly bad choice. It was the worst dinner we had there, but on that very evening, we barely had a choice. Restaurant kitchens close early in New Zealand. The chowder was recommended to us as a traditional dish, so I thought to myself, ‘maybe the cook had a bad day.’ After I came back home, I looked through the recipes on the internet and tried to repeat that, what I recalled. The main ingredients I remembered were fish, potatoes, and milk (or cream, or even both). And indeed, the recipe I have chosen and carefully applied, gave back a genuinely delicious as well as a nutritious meal.

Simple chowder, a traditional seafood and milk dish I tasted in New Zealand. Curious that although all the ingredients are traditional in the continental European kitchen, I needed to go down under to taste it the first time in my life.

The chowder I prepared for Good Friday is for sure not exactly the same I ate in New Zealand. Nevermind. Besides white fish fillet, potatoes, milk, and cream, I also added pieces of smoked salmon and raisins. The other ingredients were butter, onion, garlic, mustard as well as salt, pepper and parsley leaves.

A simple chowder for Good Friday

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri

New Zealand is known for its natural wonders. One of them is well advertised Waitomo glowworm caves located in the New Zealand North Island. The caves are known for their unique natural phenomena, created by thousands of glowworms that inhabit them. The glowworms emit a blue-green light that creates a magical effect in the dark underground cave environment.

To see the glow worms, one has to stay in the dark. No photos are allowed there. Only in the first cave, where the guide explains what you see and will see, for a moment, lights are on, so you can see how the glow worms look like in light. The highlight is a boat ride in the dark in a cave. Its ceiling is fully covered with glowworms. You raise your head up and feel like you under a night sky, but somehow the stars are closer to you. You are requested full silence while there. Unforgettable feeling.

As I do not have a habit to break the rules and make photos where it is not allowed, I asked the AI to recreate what I saw. The picture reflects that what I remember from Waiotomo caves (an addition of 2024).

But the sightseeing of the glow-worm caves, including descent, lasts only 45 minutes. The boat ride maybe only a quarter. To get to the caves, we made an extra 350 km there and back, which meant more than four hours in the van. As we arrived at Waitomo, I realized that our planned schedule is only 45 minutes of sightseeing. In a spur of the moment, I decided to make a surcharge on the original ticket (reserved some time ago from at home) and visit another complex of caves called Ruakuri caves located around two km distance from the main cave. In the aftermath, an excellent decision. To see the main glow-worm cave was fascinating, but only after visiting the other complex of caves, I went out fully satisfied with how I spent my day. The sightseeing lasted around one hour and a half. They went by before I have noticed it.

The caves feature a series of limestone formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstones, which have been formed over millions of years. The Ruakuri Caves are named after the legendary Maori chief Ruakuri, who is said to have discovered the cave system over 400 years ago. Ruakuri means “den of dogs”.

The Ruakuri caves are located 60 meters below the surface. The descent lasts around five minutes alongside a round path made inside a huge well. Before the descent, our guide explained to us the strict safety and environmental protection rules we had to follow. Ruakuri Cave is advertised as the New Zealand’s longest guided underground walking tour. What is interesting, its catwalks are wheel-chair accessible. Going down within several minutes, you feel the temperature decreases by many grades.

The path down to the Ruakuri caves. You feel like descending into a huge well.

Exploring caves of Ruakuri involves walking on catwalks that had been installed inside the caves. Alongside some of the catwalks, there are movement detectors installed that catch any movement outside the path. The system was designed so that the tourists do not touch any of the rock formations. Huge fines await those who would destroy even a piece of the rock formations. One of the unique features of the Ruakuri Cave tour is the use of innovative lighting systems, which illuminate the cave’s natural features while minimizing the impact on the cave’s delicate ecosystem. It allows the ecosystem to stay in the dark for most of the time. Small lights red, blue, or white are installed alongside the catwalk paths. From time to time, the whole group stops under a rock formation. The guide is then turning on white lights so that you can admire the formations and take photos. Basically, making photos is allowed all the time. The only exception, as I remember, is a glow-worm cave, where you are requested to walk in the darkness keeping your hand on your predecessor’s shoulder. After reaching the cave, you are asked to stop for a while. Silence is requested, too. Unforgettable feeling. Another attraction you admire only in the darkness is a waterfall. For a moment, you stop and listen to falling waters. You may only try to imagine how it looks like. Later you are explained that it is ‘only’ of one and a half meter high. But the acoustics in the caves is that outstanding that you would easily believe it is much bigger.

The catwalks inside the Ruakuri caves.

The rocks formations are mostly limestone. They are, however, of different shapes. As lights turned on by the guide are of different colors, I cannot confirm that what you may see on the photos below is the actual colors.

Just a selection of photos I made while exploring caves of Ruakuri

The Ruakuri caves include several chambers with glowworms. There are at least two spots where the guide turns on the light. First, you see the worms glowing in the darkness, and later you may see the same formation in the light. The glow-worms are in fact like twines hanging down, the ends of which are glowing in the darkness. If in the main Waitomo cave, you feel disappointed that you cannot take photos to remember the trip, you will have an occasion to make them freely in the Ruakuri caves.

A small glowworm formation in the dark (on the left) and in the flashlight (on the right).

The man-made underground path allows for exploring caves to everyone, not just those specializing in extreme caving, but really anyone who would like to admire the natural wonders located underground from a safe vantage point.

Glowworms and natural wonders. Exploring caves of Ruakuri