At the Rio Douro

The boats at the Rio Douro is one of my favorite pictures of 2014. It is a view onto the Dom Louis I bridge between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia (Portugal) (see map).

The construction of this 385 m long bridge began in 1881. The upper deck was opened on 31 October 1886; the lower deck opened in 1887. The Dom Louis bridge is one of five bridges linking the high and rocky banks of Rio Douro (>>>). To see them all, we took o tourist boat – a service that is offered for tourists on a regular basis.

The banks of the Rio Douro are densely inhabited. Some of the older houses seem to be constructed one above the other gradually. If seen from a boat the panorama is quite picturesque.

Lately, I was talking to a professional photographer who just came back from Portugal. He prefers BW or soft colors.  But his pictures of Porto’s Douro (the river) banks were … colorful. He told me it was not possible to make them otherwise. Somehow I agree, although – regrettably – my only equipment in Porto was a cell phone.

 

At the Rio Douro

Azulejos

Azulejos is painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework widespread in Portugal and Spain. In Portugal, you will find them outdoors and indoors on walls in private and public buildings. The variety of azulejos reaches from simple reproduced white-blue tiles to big detailed pictures that are indeed real pieces of art. Similar kind of tile work has been traditionally produced in some other European countries (like Italy and the Netherlands). This kind of tile work in Europe origins from Moorish culture and first it was applied to the Iberian peninsula.

On the picture, azulejos on the facade of the Vera Cruz Church in Aveiro, Portugal (see map). A real masterpiece is, however, the scenes from the Portuguese history decorating the walls of the Sao Bento railway station in Porto (>>>).

Azulejos is painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework widespread in Portugal and Spain. The term “azulejo” is derived from the Arabic word “zellige”. In Portugal, azulejos have a rich tradition dating back to the 15th century. You will find them outdoors and indoors on walls in private and public buildings. (For somebody, who is used to tiles only as decoration in bathrooms or on floors as in many other European countries, it is a bit unusual). The variety of azulejos reaches from simple reproduced white-blue tiles to big detailed pictures that are indeed real pieces of art (like those at Sao Bento station). Similar kind of tile work has been traditionally produced in some other European countries (like Italy and the Netherlands). As this kind of tile work origins from Moorish culture, it was indeed first applied to the Iberian peninsula.

The production of azulejos involves a series of intricate and skilled processes. While modern techniques have evolved, many artisans still adhere to traditional methods decorative tiles. The process begins with the preparation of a clay body. The type of clay used can impact the color and texture of the finished tile. The clay is mixed, refined, and molded into the desired tile shape. The molded clay tiles are left to dry thoroughly. This phase is crucial to avoid warping during the firing process. The dried tiles undergo the first firing, known as the biscuit firing. This firing process hardens the clay and prepares it for the glazing stage. The tiles are coated with a tin glaze, which provides a smooth, white surface for painting. The glaze also enhances the vibrancy of the colors during the painting process. Artisans hand-paint intricate designs onto the glazed surface using mineral-based pigments. After painting, the tiles undergo a second firing. This firing process, known as glost firing, seals the pigments into the glaze, creating a durable and long-lasting finish. For larger murals or decorative compositions, individual tiles are assembled to create the final design. This may involve careful planning and precise placement to ensure a cohesive and visually appealing result. In some cases, a final firing may be necessary to set the assembled tiles and create a seamless surface.

If you want to know more about azulejos and during your Portugal journey stay in Lisbon, just go to the National Tile Museum (>>>). It is located in the former Convent of Madre Deus (convents were banished from Portugal some time ago, so it is a state museum). Even if you are not an art fan, following the visiting route, you will see how the art of azulejos and its technique developed with time.

 

Azulejos

Monastery of Alcobaça

Located in Portugal (see map). Medieval. Gothic. Huge. We took a narrow street, saw some trees, circumvented a long building, and stopped at an entrance to a church with huge stairs and were told that the monastery accommodated 1000 monks. First, I did not give it too much thought. As we entered, I was surprised – because it was indeed huge. Back home, I looked through photos available on the internet. I understood why I was surprised. The building is located in the city. Its construction is widespread, so the size of the church is hidden at first sight.

The Monastery of Alcobaça belonged to the Cistercian Order. First monks moved in 1223. The monastery played a pivotal role in the religious and cultural life of the region for centuries. Its library and scriptorium were prominent centers of knowledge and manuscript production. The monastery also engaged in various agricultural and economic activities, greatly influencing the development of the surrounding area. However, in 1834, the monks, along with other orders, were compelled to leave due to the government’s dissolution of monastic life in Portugal.

There are not many pieces of art inside, as it is the case in Catholic churches. The most beautiful are two tombs of King Pedro I and his beloved mistress Inês de Castro sculptured in the so-called Manueline style (Portuguese late Gothic).

The monastery itself looks very impressive. Walking through chambers, we saw that the monks lived in a community. One dormitory accommodated even 200 monks. Only the highest in rank had separate chambers. The next day we visited another monastery of the Templar Order (>>>). In Tomar, each of the monks as well as of the novices had a separate cell. So, we felt the difference. The Cistercians were simple monks devoted either to writing or copying of books or to agriculture. They were workers (>>>). The Templars were knights.

A fascinating place to stop was the kitchen covered in azulejos, with an enormous chimney, massive sinks, and a small basin. The kitchen was built in this form in the mid-18th century. Water and fresh fish were diverted from the nearby river Alcoa to the kitchen basin. The water is still running.

The Monastery of Alcobaça is on the UNESCO list of the World Heritage Sites.

Monastery of Alcobaça