Scotland. Looking Towards Wallace

The day had started after a surprisingly short night spent on a university campus somewhere among the green hills of Scotland. Our group left early to reach Stirling Castle shortly after opening time. For a while the grounds were still relatively quiet and free from the crowds that would arrive later in the day.

Standing on the castle walls, I looked across the surrounding landscape. The morning was cool. A light haze still hung over parts of the valley, but the sun was already breaking through. Among the forests and rolling hills, one structure immediately caught my attention. Rising above the trees was a slender stone tower that appeared surprisingly small from this distance.

The tower is the National Wallace Monument, one of the most important historical monuments in Scotland. Built in the nineteenth century on Abbey Craig, it commemorates Sir William Wallace, the Scottish knight and military leader who became one of the central figures of the Wars of Scottish Independence. Although it looks modest in this photograph, the monument is actually a massive structure rising more than sixty metres above the surrounding landscape.

The monument itself is much younger than the events it commemorates. It was completed in 1869, at a time when interest in Scottish history and national identity was growing rapidly. Rather than being a medieval structure connected directly with Wallace, it represents the way later generations chose to remember him. Today it is one of Scotland’s most recognisable landmarks and an enduring symbol of the country’s struggle for independence.

Its location is far from accidental. The monument stands on Abbey Craig, close to the site of the Battle of Stirling Bridge, fought in 1297, where the forces of William Wallace and Andrew Moray defeated a much larger English army. The victory became one of the defining moments in Scotland’s struggle for independence and helped turn Wallace into a national hero. Wallace himself was not a king but a knight and military leader who later became Guardian of Scotland. His reputation continued to grow long after his death, eventually making him one of the most celebrated figures in Scottish history.

Looking across the valley, it is easy to understand why this region played such an important role in Scottish history. For centuries, control of this area meant control of one of the most important routes through Scotland. Many of the events that shaped the country’s history took place within sight of the monument.

This was one of the first views I encountered that morning. It remains one of the photographs that best captures my first impressions of Scotland: green hills, wide open space and a landscape where history is never very far away.

Scotland. Looking Towards Wallace

Stirling Castle. Fortress, Royal Residence and Symbol of Scotland

The day started after a surprisingly short night on a university campus surrounded by the green hills of Scotland. We arrived late in the evening after a long journey through some of the country’s most beautiful landscapes. The plan for the next morning was simple – leave early and reach Stirling Castle shortly after opening time.

The effort was worth it. The castle was still quiet when we arrived. The air was cool, a welcome contrast to the summer heat affecting much of Europe at the time. A light haze lingered over the surrounding countryside while the first sunlight illuminated the hills and valleys of central Scotland.

Before exploring the interiors, I spent some time walking around the castle grounds and enjoying the views. One of the first things that caught my attention was the National Wallace Monument rising above the trees in the distance. At that moment it was simply part of the landscape. The history behind it would come later.

One of the first things visitors notice at Stirling Castle is its position. The fortress stands on a volcanic crag overlooking the surrounding countryside. From the walls, the views extend far across central Scotland. The location was far more than simply scenic. For centuries, Stirling occupied one of the most important strategic positions in the country. The area controlled key routes linking northern and southern Scotland. Anyone wishing to move armies, goods or people through central Scotland would eventually have to pass through this region.

Standing on the castle walls, it is easy to understand why the site was so fiercely contested. The surrounding landscape provided natural protection while offering excellent visibility over the approaches to the fortress. Long before modern roads and railways, control of Stirling meant influence over a large part of the country. This strategic importance explains why the castle appears repeatedly throughout Scottish history. It was not only a royal residence and a military stronghold. It was also one of the keys to controlling Scotland itself.

Stirling Castle was originally built in the twelfth century and served as a residence of Scottish kings for centuries.

During the Wars of Scottish Independence, its strategic location made it one of the most contested fortresses in the country. The conflict began in 1296 when King Edward I of England attempted to bring Scotland under English control. Over the following decades, Stirling and the surrounding area became the setting for some of the most important events in Scottish history.

One of the best-known figures of this period was William Wallace. In 1297, Wallace and Andrew Moray led Scottish forces to victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The battle took place only a short distance from the castle and became one of the defining moments of the First War of Independence. Another key figure was Robert the Bruce. His victory over the English at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314 secured Scottish control of the region and remains one of the most celebrated events in the country’s history. The nearby battlefield is located only a few kilometres from Stirling Castle. The struggle for independence continued for decades.

Many visitors associate William Wallace with the film Braveheart. The movie introduced Scottish history to audiences around the world, although it takes considerable liberties with historical facts. Despite the title of the film, it was Robert the Bruce rather than William Wallace who became associated with the nickname Braveheart.

Although Stirling Castle is often associated with military history, it was also one of the most important royal residences in Scotland. The castle as we see it today was largely shaped between the fifteenth, sixteenth, seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. Successive monarchs expanded the complex by adding new buildings and rebuilding existing structures both within and around the defensive walls. Many of the most impressive parts of the castle date from the period when it served as a royal residence. Stirling reached the height of its importance during the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Mary, Queen of Scots has a particularly strong connection with Stirling Castle. She spent part of her childhood here, while her son, the future James VI of Scotland and James I of England, was crowned in the nearby Church of the Holy Rude after her forced abdication.

The needs of the royal court transformed the fortress. New residential buildings, halls and ceremonial spaces were added over several centuries. As a result, Stirling developed into a unique combination of fortress and palace, reflecting both its military importance and its role as a residence of Scottish monarchs. The castle was far more than a royal home. It was one of the principal centres of royal power in Scotland. Ambassadors were received here, important ceremonies took place within its walls, and members of the royal court lived and worked in the growing complex.

Following the Union of the Crowns in 1603, the castle gradually lost its role as a royal residence. Although it remained an important military site, the royal court moved south and Stirling’s political significance declined. In later centuries the castle served as a military garrison, army barracks and supply depot. These functions helped preserve the site, but they also altered the character of many of its historic interiors.

The restoration projects carried out in recent decades sought to reverse some of those changes. Their goal was not only to preserve the buildings themselves but also to recreate the atmosphere of a royal residence and help visitors understand how the castle once functioned.

After serving for centuries as a royal residence, Stirling Castle spent much of its later history as a military garrison, barracks and supply depot. While these functions helped preserve the buildings, many of the interiors gradually lost their original appearance.

From the mid-twentieth century onwards, extensive restoration work was undertaken to recover the character of the castle and reverse some of the changes introduced during its military use. The aim was not only to conserve the surviving structures but also to recreate the atmosphere of a royal residence and help visitors understand how the castle functioned during its most important period. One of the most ambitious stages of this project focused on the royal apartments. Following years of research and restoration, the reconstructed interiors were opened to the public in 2011. Historians, architects, conservators and craftspeople worked together to recreate spaces that reflected the appearance of the castle during the height of its importance as a royal residence.

Particular attention was paid to decorative details. The castle is famous for its magnificent series of tapestries, many of which were recreated in recent years using traditional techniques. These hand-woven reproductions were commissioned to help restore the appearance of the royal apartments and provide visitors with a better impression of how richly decorated these rooms once were.

The effort extends beyond the interiors themselves. During my visit, several members of staff were present in the royal apartments wearing historical costumes. Rather than simply supervising the rooms, they patiently answered questions and helped visitors better understand life at the Scottish court. Combined with the reconstructed interiors, they added another layer to the experience and reinforced the impression that the castle was trying to recreate a living environment rather than a traditional museum display.

One of the things I enjoyed most about visiting Stirling Castle was the freedom to explore the site at my own pace. Many castles follow a fixed route that leads visitors from one room to another with little opportunity to return or wander off. Stirling Castle felt very different. The complex is large enough to spend time both indoors and outdoors. Visitors can walk through the courtyards, explore the defensive walls and enjoy the views across the surrounding countryside. While some interiors follow a designated route, the overall experience feels remarkably open and flexible. This approach encouraged me to spend time simply walking around the castle rather than moving directly from one exhibition to the next.

The various buildings, open spaces and viewpoints reveal different aspects of the castle’s history. In one direction, the fortress dominates the landscape. In another, the residential character of the complex becomes more apparent. The castle is also larger than it first appears. Beyond the main buildings, there are additional courtyards, defensive structures and open areas within the walls. Exploring these spaces helps visitors appreciate that Stirling was not only a fortress or a royal residence, but a complex that evolved over many centuries.

Of all the reconstructed areas of Stirling Castle, the kitchens are the part I remember most vividly. By the time I reached them, most visitors had headed elsewhere. Whether by chance or good timing, I found myself almost alone in the exhibition. For nearly half an hour, I had the opportunity to explore the kitchens without crowds and photograph them from every angle.

The experience was very different from visiting the kitchens of many other castles and palaces. Historic kitchens are often presented as collections of equipment, furniture and cooking utensils. Stirling Castle takes a different approach. The reconstruction attempts to show not only the space itself but also the people who once worked there. The rooms are populated with life-sized figures dressed in period clothing and engaged in everyday tasks. Bakers prepare bread, servants carry supplies and cooks work around the hearths. Rather than looking at a static exhibition, visitors are presented with scenes from daily life at a busy royal residence.

The atmosphere is enhanced by the lighting. The kitchens are deliberately darker than the royal apartments, helping to create the impression of a working environment rather than a museum display. Combined with the reconstructed equipment and furnishings, the figures make the rooms feel surprisingly authentic. What impressed me most was the sense of activity. Walking through the kitchens felt less like visiting a historical exhibition and more like stepping into a moment frozen in time. The people were not real, of course, but the reconstruction was convincing enough to make it easy to imagine the castle functioning as a living royal household.

The kitchens are perhaps the best example of the philosophy behind the restoration of Stirling Castle. The goal was not simply to preserve historic rooms but to help visitors understand how people once lived and worked within them.

What stayed with me most from my visit to Stirling Castle was the feeling that this was a place people genuinely cared about. The castle itself has an extraordinary history, but what impressed me equally was the effort devoted to bringing that history back to life.

From the reconstructed royal apartments to the kitchens filled with scenes of everyday work, everything seemed designed to help visitors imagine the castle as a living place rather than a historic monument. Combined with its spectacular location and its importance in Scottish history, that made Stirling Castle one of the most memorable castles I visited during my journey through Scotland.

 

Stirling Castle. Fortress, Royal Residence and Symbol of Scotland

Glamis castle

Glamis? A thought? The first association by anybody, who coped with obligatory stuff in international literature while at school, will be with William Shakespeare and his prominent work Macbeth’. The plot is somewhat fictional. But, there was indeed a king of Scots with the name of Duncan (or in Gaelic: Donnchad mac Crinain) and a king of Scots with the name Macbeth (in Gaelic: Mac Bethad mac Findlaích). Macbeth succeeded Duncan at the Scottish throne. King Duncan died however on a battlefield (in August 1040) and not like in Shakespeare’s drama plot murdered in his sleep by his successor in the Glamis castle.

But in fact, there is a castle in Glamis that in past times before it was rebuilt in XVII and XVIII centuries was a fortress worthy of kings. The castle was built in the late XIV century as the seat of the 1st Thane of Glamis, John Lyon, a nobleman of the French or Norman origin, who married a daughter of a Scottish king.

The castle replaced a hunting lodge. As king Duncan died in 1040, it was even not possible for him to ever visit the Glamis castle. But who cares. According to Shakespeare king Duncan was murdered by Macbeth, Thane of Glamis while staying the night in the Glamis castle. Period.

The very view onto the Glamis castle as it looks like today.

It is not allowed to take photos of the interiors. Many of its chambers are indeed very impressive and simultaneously home like.

In present times, the place is mostly known as the birthplace of the Queen Mother (who died 2002), the mother to Queen Elisabeth II, the current British and Commonwealth monarch. The Queen Mother was born Elizabeth Bowes Lyon, the fourth daughter and altogether the ninth child to the Scottish Earl of Strathmore and Kinghorne. His family seat has traditionally been the Glamis castle. The Earls of Strathmore and Kinghorne are in the straight line descendants of John Lyon, who was given Glamis by a Scottish king. Elizabeth married the famous Bertie, the Duke of York (the second son of the British King). For her husband’s elder brother abdicated for an ‘unroyal’ love, she became the Queen Consort (the King’s wife). Remember the film ‘The King’s Speech’ (2010) with Colin Firth, Geoffrey Rush, and Helena Bonham Carter?

While writing this entry, I was wondering why a daughter of a Scottish Earl, whose title was given through ages unbroken from father to son, had a maiden name consisting of the parts Bowes and Lyon. Unlike in the case of titles given to male heads of the family (here among others Strathmore and Kinghorne) that could have just been granted by a king, a sudden change of the last name of a noble house seemed to be rather unusual. And it was indeed. One of the Earls married a certain Mary Eleanor Bowes, a very affluent businessman’s daughter. In his will, her father, who made his money on mining, stipulated a condition for the bequest. If she was to marry and inherit the money, her future husband was supposed to accept her last name as his own. To meet the condition, the Earl had to ask the English Parliament for permission, which he was finally given. The family last name changed from Lyon to Lyon Bowes. Thank to this Lady and her bequest, the castle and its surroundings could have been generously reshaped.

The royal mementos displayed in the Glamis castle.

On our journey to Scotland, we stopped only for a short visit to the castle. For it is forbidden to make shots of the interiors (the only exception is the room with the royal mementos), we quite quickly went through all chambers that are open to tourists. On our way, we were told stories of ghosts that haunt in the castle. One of them was a child of the family, who was born mutilated, finally bricked up in one of the castle chambers. The other one was a family member (nicknamed Earl Beardie), who was supposed to sell his soul to a devil so that he can play cards till doomsday, with the devil himself. Both stories are not confirmed. But there is also a story of one of the family members, a certain Lady Janet, who was burned at stake for witchcraft. Lady Janet, the wife to one of the Lords of the Lyon family, is, however, a real and confirmed historical figure. She was indeed burned at stake, but rather for political reasons and revenge on her family. The final order was given by James V of Scotland, father to Mary, Queen of Scots, otherwise known as Mary Stewart.

Glamis castle