Mary II Stuart, the Protestant Queen of England

Sometimes, when you travel to different countries and visit museums, you come across works by local artists that depict people or events significant to that country’s history. You might realise you’ve seen the same figure or story before — just in a different context. I had exactly that kind of déjà vu while going through photos of artworks I’d taken at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. While walking through the museum, I didn’t have time to read every plaque. The artworks were so captivating that I simply photographed whatever caught my eye. One of those images turned out to be a bust of a noblewoman.

After returning home, I used Google Lens to identify the creator of the bust and the person it portrayed. I learned that the artist was Jan Michiel Rysbrack, and the bust depicted Mary II Stuart, Queen of England. That discovery piqued my curiosity, so I went online to find out more. To my surprise, I realised I had already written about her a few years ago — in a post on the history of … Scotland.

The sculptor, a renowned Flemish artist, made significant contributions to British art in the 18th century. Born in 1694 in Antwerp – now part of Flanders, the Dutch-speaking region of Belgium – he moved to London in 1720. Back in 1700, Antwerp was still part of the Spanish Netherlands, a region in the southern Low Countries that remained under Spanish control from the 16th century until the early 18th century. Because of my work, I’ve often travelled to Belgium, and my recent trip to the neighbouring Netherlands might be the perfect occasion to write a post on the fascinating history of this region sometime soon.

For now, however, I’ll turn my attention to Mary Stuart, and explore why a Queen of England from a Scottish dynasty is featured so prominently in one of the main galleries of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

Mary II Stuart was born in 1662 at St. James’s Palace in London. She was the eldest daughter of James, Duke of York (later James II of England) and his first wife, Anne Hyde. Mary belonged to the Scottish Stuart dynasty, which had ruled England since the early 17th century. Although her father was a Catholic, Mary was raised as a Protestant – a decision that would prove crucial later in her life. Her uncle, Charles II, who was king at the time of her birth, was publicly Protestant, though he is believed to have converted to Catholicism on his deathbed. During his reign, it was politically expedient to maintain a Protestant public image in order to secure Parliament’s support and preserve stability. As for James, Mary’s father, the exact date of his conversion remains uncertain, but it is thought he became Catholic in the late 1660s. He kept his faith private for several years to avoid political repercussions, but by 1673, his conversion was publicly known. Nonetheless, keeping Mary’s Protestant upbringing was seen as vital to reassure Parliament and the English public that the Protestant succession would continue.

At the age of 15, in 1677, Mary married her first cousin, William of Orange – a Protestant and the son of William II, Prince of Orange, and Mary, Princess Royal of England, who was the daughter of Charles I of England. The marriage was part of a wider political effort to secure Protestant alliances for the British throne. At the time, Charles II, King of England and Mary’s uncle, was in poor health and – at least officially – remained Protestant.

William III of Orange was not King of the Netherlands in the modern sense of the term. Instead, he held the title of Stadtholder of the Dutch Republic from 1672. The Dutch Republic was a confederation of provinces in what is now the Netherlands, and the role of Stadtholder was neither hereditary nor equivalent to a monarchy. It was an appointed position, granted by the provinces, and primarily served as a military commander and political leader, rather than a sovereign ruler.

The Dutch Republic, officially known as the Republic of the Seven United Netherlands, was established in the northern part of the Low Countries in 1648, after gaining independence from Spain. Southern provinces such as Flanders, Brabant, and Hainaut remained under Spanish Catholic rule, a territory known as the Spanish Netherlands.

Mary’s father, James II, ascended to the English throne in 1685, but his Catholic faith and increasingly autocratic rule led to growing discontent across the kingdom. William’s marriage to Mary placed him in a strong position to challenge his father-in-law. In 1688, William III of Orange invaded England in what became known as the Glorious Revolution. James II fled to France, and William and Mary were jointly offered the throne by the English Parliament. Mary II reigned alongside William III until her death in 1694, and she was buried in Westminster Abbey. William continued to rule alone until his own death in 1702.

In the years that followed, the Jacobites — supporters of the deposed Stuart king James II and his descendants — sought to restore the Stuart monarchy to the thrones of England, Scotland, and Ireland, but ultimately failed in their efforts. Great Britain remained Protestant, and the Hanoverian dynasty eventually solidified its rule. The name Jacobite comes from Jacobus, the Latin form of James.

Mary II Stuart, the Protestant Queen of England

Scotland. Looking Towards Wallace

The day had started after a surprisingly short night spent on a university campus somewhere among the green hills of Scotland. Our group left early to reach Stirling Castle shortly after opening time. For a while the grounds were still relatively quiet and free from the crowds that would arrive later in the day.

Standing on the castle walls, I looked across the surrounding landscape. The morning was cool. A light haze still hung over parts of the valley, but the sun was already breaking through. Among the forests and rolling hills, one structure immediately caught my attention. Rising above the trees was a slender stone tower that appeared surprisingly small from this distance.

The tower is the National Wallace Monument, one of the most important historical monuments in Scotland. Built in the nineteenth century on Abbey Craig, it commemorates Sir William Wallace, the Scottish knight and military leader who became one of the central figures of the Wars of Scottish Independence. Although it looks modest in this photograph, the monument is actually a massive structure rising more than sixty metres above the surrounding landscape.

The monument itself is much younger than the events it commemorates. It was completed in 1869, at a time when interest in Scottish history and national identity was growing rapidly. Rather than being a medieval structure connected directly with Wallace, it represents the way later generations chose to remember him. Today it is one of Scotland’s most recognisable landmarks and an enduring symbol of the country’s struggle for independence.

Its location is far from accidental. The monument stands on Abbey Craig, close to the site of the Battle of Stirling Bridge, fought in 1297, where the forces of William Wallace and Andrew Moray defeated a much larger English army. The victory became one of the defining moments in Scotland’s struggle for independence and helped turn Wallace into a national hero. Wallace himself was not a king but a knight and military leader who later became Guardian of Scotland. His reputation continued to grow long after his death, eventually making him one of the most celebrated figures in Scottish history.

Looking across the valley, it is easy to understand why this region played such an important role in Scottish history. For centuries, control of this area meant control of one of the most important routes through Scotland. Many of the events that shaped the country’s history took place within sight of the monument.

This was one of the first views I encountered that morning. It remains one of the photographs that best captures my first impressions of Scotland: green hills, wide open space and a landscape where history is never very far away.

Scotland. Looking Towards Wallace

Stirling Castle. Fortress, Royal Residence and Symbol of Scotland

The day started after a surprisingly short night on a university campus surrounded by the green hills of Scotland. We arrived late in the evening after a long journey through some of the country’s most beautiful landscapes. The plan for the next morning was simple – leave early and reach Stirling Castle shortly after opening time.

The effort was worth it. The castle was still quiet when we arrived. The air was cool, a welcome contrast to the summer heat affecting much of Europe at the time. A light haze lingered over the surrounding countryside while the first sunlight illuminated the hills and valleys of central Scotland.

Before exploring the interiors, I spent some time walking around the castle grounds and enjoying the views. One of the first things that caught my attention was the National Wallace Monument rising above the trees in the distance. At that moment it was simply part of the landscape. The history behind it would come later.

One of the first things visitors notice at Stirling Castle is its position. The fortress stands on a volcanic crag overlooking the surrounding countryside. From the walls, the views extend far across central Scotland. The location was far more than simply scenic. For centuries, Stirling occupied one of the most important strategic positions in the country. The area controlled key routes linking northern and southern Scotland. Anyone wishing to move armies, goods or people through central Scotland would eventually have to pass through this region.

Standing on the castle walls, it is easy to understand why the site was so fiercely contested. The surrounding landscape provided natural protection while offering excellent visibility over the approaches to the fortress. Long before modern roads and railways, control of Stirling meant influence over a large part of the country. This strategic importance explains why the castle appears repeatedly throughout Scottish history. It was not only a royal residence and a military stronghold. It was also one of the keys to controlling Scotland itself.

Stirling Castle was originally built in the twelfth century and served as a residence of Scottish kings for centuries.

During the Wars of Scottish Independence, its strategic location made it one of the most contested fortresses in the country. The conflict began in 1296 when King Edward I of England attempted to bring Scotland under English control. Over the following decades, Stirling and the surrounding area became the setting for some of the most important events in Scottish history.

One of the best-known figures of this period was William Wallace. In 1297, Wallace and Andrew Moray led Scottish forces to victory at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The battle took place only a short distance from the castle and became one of the defining moments of the First War of Independence. Another key figure was Robert the Bruce. His victory over the English at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314 secured Scottish control of the region and remains one of the most celebrated events in the country’s history. The nearby battlefield is located only a few kilometres from Stirling Castle. The struggle for independence continued for decades.

Many visitors associate William Wallace with the film Braveheart. The movie introduced Scottish history to audiences around the world, although it takes considerable liberties with historical facts. Despite the title of the film, it was Robert the Bruce rather than William Wallace who became associated with the nickname Braveheart.

Although Stirling Castle is often associated with military history, it was also one of the most important royal residences in Scotland. The castle as we see it today was largely shaped between the fifteenth, sixteenth, seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. Successive monarchs expanded the complex by adding new buildings and rebuilding existing structures both within and around the defensive walls. Many of the most impressive parts of the castle date from the period when it served as a royal residence. Stirling reached the height of its importance during the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Mary, Queen of Scots has a particularly strong connection with Stirling Castle. She spent part of her childhood here, while her son, the future James VI of Scotland and James I of England, was crowned in the nearby Church of the Holy Rude after her forced abdication.

The needs of the royal court transformed the fortress. New residential buildings, halls and ceremonial spaces were added over several centuries. As a result, Stirling developed into a unique combination of fortress and palace, reflecting both its military importance and its role as a residence of Scottish monarchs. The castle was far more than a royal home. It was one of the principal centres of royal power in Scotland. Ambassadors were received here, important ceremonies took place within its walls, and members of the royal court lived and worked in the growing complex.

Following the Union of the Crowns in 1603, the castle gradually lost its role as a royal residence. Although it remained an important military site, the royal court moved south and Stirling’s political significance declined. In later centuries the castle served as a military garrison, army barracks and supply depot. These functions helped preserve the site, but they also altered the character of many of its historic interiors.

The restoration projects carried out in recent decades sought to reverse some of those changes. Their goal was not only to preserve the buildings themselves but also to recreate the atmosphere of a royal residence and help visitors understand how the castle once functioned.

After serving for centuries as a royal residence, Stirling Castle spent much of its later history as a military garrison, barracks and supply depot. While these functions helped preserve the buildings, many of the interiors gradually lost their original appearance.

From the mid-twentieth century onwards, extensive restoration work was undertaken to recover the character of the castle and reverse some of the changes introduced during its military use. The aim was not only to conserve the surviving structures but also to recreate the atmosphere of a royal residence and help visitors understand how the castle functioned during its most important period. One of the most ambitious stages of this project focused on the royal apartments. Following years of research and restoration, the reconstructed interiors were opened to the public in 2011. Historians, architects, conservators and craftspeople worked together to recreate spaces that reflected the appearance of the castle during the height of its importance as a royal residence.

Particular attention was paid to decorative details. The castle is famous for its magnificent series of tapestries, many of which were recreated in recent years using traditional techniques. These hand-woven reproductions were commissioned to help restore the appearance of the royal apartments and provide visitors with a better impression of how richly decorated these rooms once were.

The effort extends beyond the interiors themselves. During my visit, several members of staff were present in the royal apartments wearing historical costumes. Rather than simply supervising the rooms, they patiently answered questions and helped visitors better understand life at the Scottish court. Combined with the reconstructed interiors, they added another layer to the experience and reinforced the impression that the castle was trying to recreate a living environment rather than a traditional museum display.

One of the things I enjoyed most about visiting Stirling Castle was the freedom to explore the site at my own pace. Many castles follow a fixed route that leads visitors from one room to another with little opportunity to return or wander off. Stirling Castle felt very different. The complex is large enough to spend time both indoors and outdoors. Visitors can walk through the courtyards, explore the defensive walls and enjoy the views across the surrounding countryside. While some interiors follow a designated route, the overall experience feels remarkably open and flexible. This approach encouraged me to spend time simply walking around the castle rather than moving directly from one exhibition to the next.

The various buildings, open spaces and viewpoints reveal different aspects of the castle’s history. In one direction, the fortress dominates the landscape. In another, the residential character of the complex becomes more apparent. The castle is also larger than it first appears. Beyond the main buildings, there are additional courtyards, defensive structures and open areas within the walls. Exploring these spaces helps visitors appreciate that Stirling was not only a fortress or a royal residence, but a complex that evolved over many centuries.

Of all the reconstructed areas of Stirling Castle, the kitchens are the part I remember most vividly. By the time I reached them, most visitors had headed elsewhere. Whether by chance or good timing, I found myself almost alone in the exhibition. For nearly half an hour, I had the opportunity to explore the kitchens without crowds and photograph them from every angle.

The experience was very different from visiting the kitchens of many other castles and palaces. Historic kitchens are often presented as collections of equipment, furniture and cooking utensils. Stirling Castle takes a different approach. The reconstruction attempts to show not only the space itself but also the people who once worked there. The rooms are populated with life-sized figures dressed in period clothing and engaged in everyday tasks. Bakers prepare bread, servants carry supplies and cooks work around the hearths. Rather than looking at a static exhibition, visitors are presented with scenes from daily life at a busy royal residence.

The atmosphere is enhanced by the lighting. The kitchens are deliberately darker than the royal apartments, helping to create the impression of a working environment rather than a museum display. Combined with the reconstructed equipment and furnishings, the figures make the rooms feel surprisingly authentic. What impressed me most was the sense of activity. Walking through the kitchens felt less like visiting a historical exhibition and more like stepping into a moment frozen in time. The people were not real, of course, but the reconstruction was convincing enough to make it easy to imagine the castle functioning as a living royal household.

The kitchens are perhaps the best example of the philosophy behind the restoration of Stirling Castle. The goal was not simply to preserve historic rooms but to help visitors understand how people once lived and worked within them.

What stayed with me most from my visit to Stirling Castle was the feeling that this was a place people genuinely cared about. The castle itself has an extraordinary history, but what impressed me equally was the effort devoted to bringing that history back to life.

From the reconstructed royal apartments to the kitchens filled with scenes of everyday work, everything seemed designed to help visitors imagine the castle as a living place rather than a historic monument. Combined with its spectacular location and its importance in Scottish history, that made Stirling Castle one of the most memorable castles I visited during my journey through Scotland.

 

Stirling Castle. Fortress, Royal Residence and Symbol of Scotland