Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Białystok

Travelling around Podlasie, we decided to go to Białystok for one day. Białystok is not only the capital of Podlasie but also the largest city in north-eastern Poland. We focused on the Branicki Palace, went out through the park from its back side, further turned right, where we walked around the Old Town, and for a few moments, we entered the Basilica, which is located between the old town and the palace, closer to the front of the palace.

The arch cathedral basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Białystok consists of two interconnected church buildings: the old Late Renaissance (from the beginning of the 17th century) and the new Neo-Gothic (from the beginning of the 20th century). The renaissance church looks like the left wing of the Neo-Gothic church. The first photo shows a small fragment of it. I took my photos in however the interior of the Neo-Gothic church.

The Neo-Gothic church is a three-nave structure with a single-nave transept, arranged like the Latin cross. It is 90 m long and 72.5 m high (counting in the towers). Below, yo can see photos of the Neo-Gothic facade and photos taken in the main nave with a view of the main altar and the organ. Let’s also pay attention to the beautiful floor.

The main altar is dated 1915 and made in the Neo-Gothic cabinet style. It is made of oak wood, varnished and polished. The linden wood was used for figures. Some elements have a golden ducat cover. The apostles are shown in the lower level. Above it, the main scene is about the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Higher we see the image of the Holy Trinity: God the Father, the Son of God and the Holy Spirit. Finally, on the wings of the altar, we see four scenes from Mary’s life. In the upper left section, the archangel Gabriel appears to Mary), and the upper right section shows St. Anna welcoming Mary. In the lower-left section, we see the Christmas nativity scene; in the lower right section, a priest is holding the Baby Jesus.

There are several other altars in the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Białystok, including the altar of Our Lady of Częstochowa (a painting in probably the most important sanctuary in Poland) and of Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn (a painting in a sanctuary in Vilnius). Unfortunately, not wanting to disturb the faithful praying in front of the latter, I did not take any picture of the latter not wanting to disturb the faithful praying in front of the latter. Below are a few more photos of the altars, stained glass windows and photos taken in the side aisles of the Basilica.

Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Białystok

Saint Water

Last Saturday we were visiting the North Eastern Polish region of Podlasie. It is a beautiful spot with almost no modern industry. Just forests, water, small towns and villages. Throughout our journey, I was sitting behind the wheel. The drive was a pleasure. Good roads and beautiful green landscapes.

On the way, we visited some more or less interesting places stopping for an hour or two. This region of Poland used to be a multicultural pot through the ages, with three religious communities coexisting: Catholic, Protestant, Orthodox and Jewish. On our way, besides beautiful green spots, we looked at one or the other site of a religious nature. One of those places was Saint Water, a sanctuary with a water dwell of presumably healing power. To be frank, I had never heard of this place before. But, as we were to decide where to go and where to stop for short sightseeing on foot, my fellows told me of ‘a hill with crosses’. But as we arrived and I took a look onto the hill, it exceeded by far my expectations. The ‘hill with crosses’ turned out to be a sanctuary where people could place a cross for gratitude, offer or prayer intention. It was nothing unusual. On my journeys, I saw a couple of places like that. One covered on this blog was far away in Japan. The idea was the same, only different confessions and different offerings. In Catholic Poland, it is crosses. In Shinto & Buddhist Japan, these were torii >>>.

However, what was astonishing for me was that it was not some idea by one or another fellow to offer a cross that launched the offerings. Saint Water was organised from scratch in 1997 and seemingly well planned in recent years by an outdoor greenery architect. On the premises, you can even find some small Bonsai cut trees. This place has nothing similar to surrounding it forests, where kings came for hunting in old times. I guess after the long suppression by Tsar Russia and long years of Soviet Communism in Poland that ended in 1990, somebody wanted to create a place of pilgrimage in this region. I barely think it is a place truly worth sightseeing. But from a chronicler’s duty, below some pictures of the hill and the sanctuary.

Saint Water

Visiting an Old Synagogue in Tykocin

Our journey through north-eastern Poland continues. Yesterday, we visited an old synagogue in Tykocin, which now serves as a museum dedicated to Jewish heritage. Although Tykocin is a small town in a region more commonly associated with relaxation than sightseeing, it still attracts a fair amount of interest. In fact, as we were leaving the synagogue, a group of American soldiers stationed in Poland arrived on a tour.

The Jewish community in Tykocin has a long and rich history, dating back to the early 16th century. In 1522, Prince Olbracht Gasztołd invited the first Jewish families from Grodno to settle in the town, granting them privileges including the right to establish a synagogue and a cemetery.

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Tykocin became one of the most important Jewish centres in the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, second only to Kraków. The Jewish population played a vital role in trade, craftsmanship, and religious life in the region. In 1642, the Great Synagogue was built – one of the best-preserved Jewish monuments in Poland today.

Before the Second World War, Jews made up around half of Tykocin’s population, numbering approximately 2,000 people. Tragically, in August 1941, SS units carried out a mass execution of Tykocin’s Jews in the nearby Łopuchowo Forest, killing roughly 2,500 people. From that moment on, Jewish life in the town ceased to exist. However, some traditions live on — for instance, there is a well-regarded Jewish restaurant in town, featuring typical décor and traditional cuisine.

The synagogue was closed during the Second World War and repurposed by the German army as a storage facility. After the war, it served as a warehouse before gradually falling into disrepair. The restoration of the Old Synagogue in Tykocin began in the 1990s and was completed in 2009. Today, it functions as a museum and cultural centre dedicated to the Jewish heritage of Tykocin and the surrounding region. It is no longer used for religious services.

The Great Synagogue in Tykocin is considered one of the best-preserved examples of Baroque synagogue architecture in Poland. The building was constructed in 1642, following a square floor plan measuring 18 by 18 metres. The main prayer hall, which rises to a height of 9 metres, is topped with a nine-field vaulted ceiling – a design feature typical of many Eastern European synagogues.

The interior of the synagogue stands out with its painted ceiling and richly decorated wooden architectural details. The central section of the prayer hall was designed with a lowered floor – a deliberate reference to the verse from the Psalms: Out of the depths I cry to you, O Lord (Psalm 130:1). This lowering of the floor has a symbolic dimension, representing the humility and contrition with which worshippers are expected to approach prayer.

At the centre of the hall stands the bimah – a wooden platform from which the Torah scrolls were read and prayers led. In keeping with tradition, it is positioned in the centre of the hall to emphasise the central role of the Torah in communal life. The bimah is elaborately adorned with carved woodwork and polychrome decoration, and is surrounded by decorative railings with turned balusters, which both define the liturgical space and underline its importance.

On the eastern wall is the Aron ha-Kodesh, or Holy Ark, where the Torah scrolls – the most sacred objects in Judaism – are kept. In Tykocin, the Ark is made of stone and richly decorated in a Mannerist style, featuring a pair of columns, a large pediment, and a medallion bearing the Torah crown – a symbol of the divine authority of the Law. It is covered by an embroidered parochet, or ritual curtain, used to conceal the Ark when not in use. This parochet dates back to the 1660s, shortly after the synagogue’s completion.

In front of the Aron ha-Kodesh is the amud – the prayer lectern from which the chazzan (cantor) would lead the service. Its placement directly in front of the Ark highlights the connection between prayer and the Torah, regarded as its spiritual source.

The synagogue’s interior is also decorated with wall paintings featuring Hebrew inscriptions – verses from Scripture or fragments of prayer, serving not only as decoration but also as didactic and liturgical elements. These were common in synagogues as a way of integrating sacred texts into the space of worship.

From the ceiling hang wrought-iron chandeliers and candleholders, which had both a practical and a symbolic function – in Jewish tradition, light evokes the presence of God and serves as a reminder of mitzvot such as lighting candles for Shabbat and festivals.

The synagogue also included a separate space for women, in accordance with Orthodox practice of gender separation during prayer. Although a full gallery is not visible in photographs, its existence is suggested by architectural features near the upper walls.

On the images below moving down each column from left to right, you can see some of the religious objects I photographed in the synagogue museum. As an absolute beginner in Jewish culture I needed to later study at home to udnerstand what I photographed.

In the first column, you see a tallit – a traditional Jewish prayer shawl with black stripes – laid out alongside a pair of tefillin, small black leather boxes containing scrolls of parchment inscribed with verses from the Torah. Below that is a richly decorated Torah crown, made of gold and adorned with intricate designs, placed on a white cloth. In the middle column, there’s a partially unrolled Torah scroll, showing lines of Hebrew text, flanked by silver Torah ornaments. Beneath it, a colourful and detailed Megillat Esther (Scroll of Esther) is displayed, used during the celebration of Purim. The third column begins with a set Shabbat table, complete with candlesticks, a kiddush cup, challah bread, and an embroidered challah cover – all ready for the Friday evening meal. Below it, there is a display of children’s Shabbat items, including small silver candlesticks and a neatly folded tallit katan, a fringed garment worn as a sign of faith.

Below is a brief explanation of the objects shown above and their role in Jewish religious life.

We begin with items used in everyday practice. Tefillin are small black leather boxes containing passages from the Torah, worn by Jewish men on the head and arm during weekday morning prayers. They represent the connection between thought, action, and faith. Alongside them is the tallit, a prayer shawl with fringes (tzitzit) on the corners, which serve as a reminder of the commandments in the Torah. Children are introduced to religious customs from a young age. The tallit katan is a smaller, everyday version of the tallit, typically worn under clothing. Children’s Shabbat candlesticks allow young ones to take part in Shabbat preparations by lighting their own candles alongside the adults.

Shabbat, the weekly day of rest, begins on Friday evening. At home, candles are lit, blessings are recited over wine (kiddush), and a special braided bread called challah is eaten, often covered with an embroidered cloth. These elements are visible in the image of the Shabbat table.

In the synagogue, a central role is played by the Torah scroll, which contains the Five Books of Moses, handwritten on parchment. It is read during services on Shabbat, Mondays, Thursdays, and Jewish holidays. The Torah crown is a decorative ornament placed on the scroll, symbolising its holiness and importance. Finally, we see the Megillat Esther – the Scroll of Esther – which is read once a year during the festival of Purim. This scroll tells the story of Queen Esther saving the Jewish people in ancient Persia. Purim is a joyful celebration, and the scroll is often beautifully illustrated.

This is my first meaningful encounter with Jewish culture, and I’m trying to gain a clearer understanding of how Jewish holidays are structured. Initially, I was surprised to learn that not all of them share the same origin or significance. Some are Torah-based holidays, meaning they come directly from the Torah – the first five books of the Bible, which in Christianity form the beginning of the Old Testament. In Judaism, however, the Torah is a distinct and central sacred text, and is not regarded as part of an “Old” Testament, since Judaism does not recognise the New Testament.

Other holidays were introduced later, either by rabbinic authority or in response to major historical events. These are referred to as post-Torah or rabbinic holidays.

Torah-based holidays are the oldest and most significant in Judaism. Among them is Shabbat – the weekly day of rest. On Shabbat, work and everyday tasks are avoided in favour of prayer, shared meals, rest, and time with family. It is a moment of calm and spiritual renewal, lasting from Friday evening to Saturday evening.

Pesach (Passover) commemorates the Exodus of the Jews from Egypt, closely linked to the theme of freedom. According to the biblical narrative, the Israelites, enslaved under Pharaoh, left Egypt under the leadership of Moses, following a series of plagues sent by God. Their escape culminated in the parting of the Red Sea, marking the beginning of their journey through the desert toward Canaan.

Shavuot marks the giving of the Torah at Mount Sinai and is more spiritually oriented. It commemorates the moment when Moses received the tablets with the Ten Commandments, as well as other teachings. This took place during the Israelites’ desert journey, forming the basis of the covenant between God and Israel.

Sukkot, in turn, recalls the time the Israelites spent in the desert and is celebrated, among other customs, by building temporary shelters (sukkot).

Two other major Torah-based holidays are Rosh Hashanah (the Jewish New Year) and Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement. Yom Kippur is one of the most sacred days in the Jewish calendar. It commemorates the biblical moment when God forgave the Israelites for the sin of the golden calf – an event that occurred while Moses was receiving the tablets on Mount Sinai. In his absence, the people, fearful and impatient, asked Aaron to make them a visible god. He fashioned a golden calf from collected jewellery, which the people worshipped. On returning, Moses destroyed the idol and the tablets, punished the people, and later pleaded for divine forgiveness. God forgave them, and Yom Kippur commemorates this renewal of the covenant. Since then, it has been observed as a day of prayer, self-reflection, and atonement for sins committed against God.

In contrast, post-Torah holidays are not mentioned in the Torah but were established later. Nonetheless, they are widely observed and hold great importance.

One such holiday is Chanukah – the Festival of Lights – which commemorates the rededication of the Temple in Jerusalem and the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days, despite there being only enough for one. Following their victory over the Greek Seleucid empire in the 2nd century BCE, the Jews reclaimed the desecrated Temple, finding only one sealed jar of ritually pure oil to light the menorah. Miraculously, the oil lasted for eight days – the time needed to prepare more. This event is seen as a miracle and is the foundation of the celebration.

Another is Purim – a joyful and unique holiday marking the salvation of the Jews in ancient Persia through the courage of Queen Esther. As recounted in the Book of Esther, she uncovered a plot by the royal advisor Haman to exterminate the Jewish people. Through her bravery and intervention, the plot was thwarted and the Jews were saved. On Purim, the Book of Esther (Megillah) is read aloud, gifts of food are exchanged, and people gather for festive celebrations, often including costumes and playful traditions.

Visiting an Old Synagogue in Tykocin