Vers la Gloire

You enter a famous building, enjoy the architecture, shoot the art pieces that are inside, but because of time constraints (there are so many places to visit), you do not put attention to details. But making photographs has the advantage that you can come back to them later and study.

Yesterday I was reviewing photos I made in the Pantheon of Paris >>>. As I entered the building, I remember I noticed a monument in front of me in the very back of the interior. Naturally a bit later, I came closer to it to take some shots. But following our guide to the door of the crypt on the left-hand side of the monument, I noticed a fresco of a battle just behind it. I am used to frescoes of earlier ages showing mythology or religious scenes. But a horse charge painted directly on a wall was a bit unusual. So, quickly, I made some shots. I almost lost our guide’s voice in my earpiece, thus not giving too much thought to it all I hurried downstairs to the crypts to join the others. (On the photo a general view onto the Pantheon interior. Look straight forward onto the wall behind the monument.)

The fresco, a triptyque, is called Vers la Gloire (English: Forward Glory). It was painted by Jean Baptiste Édouard Detaille, a 19th-century French painter known for his detailed military paintings. Having designed his paintings, he utilized original military uniforms and accessories of the Epoque. Educated at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, Detaille’s talent gained recognition, and he eventually became a professor at the military school of Saint-Cyr. His association with the military extended beyond canvas, as he served as a military officer during the Franco-Prussian War. This firsthand experience infused his paintings with a unique authenticity and emotional depth. Detaille’s artistic contributions earned him numerous accolades, including the Legion of Honour.

Wikipedia says that the fresco Vers la Gloire it was painted 1902-1905. However, in the resources of the Library of Congress, I found two photos dated 1890 showing this fresco, one with a statue of Jeanne d’Arc ahead of it. (Seemingly the statue was replaced later with the monument of the Nationa Convention).

Making the photo, I was not thinking of close-ups. But still making cut-outs was possible on the computer.

I was not able to find any information on whether this mural reflects any specific battle. Still, it is showing a horse charge in times of Napoleonic wars (>>>).

Vers la Gloire

Azulejos

Azulejos is painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework widespread in Portugal and Spain. In Portugal, you will find them outdoors and indoors on walls in private and public buildings. The variety of azulejos reaches from simple reproduced white-blue tiles to big detailed pictures that are indeed real pieces of art. Similar kind of tile work has been traditionally produced in some other European countries (like Italy and the Netherlands). This kind of tile work in Europe origins from Moorish culture and first it was applied to the Iberian peninsula.

On the picture, azulejos on the facade of the Vera Cruz Church in Aveiro, Portugal (see map). A real masterpiece is, however, the scenes from the Portuguese history decorating the walls of the Sao Bento railway station in Porto (>>>).

Azulejos is painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework widespread in Portugal and Spain. The term “azulejo” is derived from the Arabic word “zellige”. In Portugal, azulejos have a rich tradition dating back to the 15th century. You will find them outdoors and indoors on walls in private and public buildings. (For somebody, who is used to tiles only as decoration in bathrooms or on floors as in many other European countries, it is a bit unusual). The variety of azulejos reaches from simple reproduced white-blue tiles to big detailed pictures that are indeed real pieces of art (like those at Sao Bento station). Similar kind of tile work has been traditionally produced in some other European countries (like Italy and the Netherlands). As this kind of tile work origins from Moorish culture, it was indeed first applied to the Iberian peninsula.

The production of azulejos involves a series of intricate and skilled processes. While modern techniques have evolved, many artisans still adhere to traditional methods decorative tiles. The process begins with the preparation of a clay body. The type of clay used can impact the color and texture of the finished tile. The clay is mixed, refined, and molded into the desired tile shape. The molded clay tiles are left to dry thoroughly. This phase is crucial to avoid warping during the firing process. The dried tiles undergo the first firing, known as the biscuit firing. This firing process hardens the clay and prepares it for the glazing stage. The tiles are coated with a tin glaze, which provides a smooth, white surface for painting. The glaze also enhances the vibrancy of the colors during the painting process. Artisans hand-paint intricate designs onto the glazed surface using mineral-based pigments. After painting, the tiles undergo a second firing. This firing process, known as glost firing, seals the pigments into the glaze, creating a durable and long-lasting finish. For larger murals or decorative compositions, individual tiles are assembled to create the final design. This may involve careful planning and precise placement to ensure a cohesive and visually appealing result. In some cases, a final firing may be necessary to set the assembled tiles and create a seamless surface.

If you want to know more about azulejos and during your Portugal journey stay in Lisbon, just go to the National Tile Museum (>>>). It is located in the former Convent of Madre Deus (convents were banished from Portugal some time ago, so it is a state museum). Even if you are not an art fan, following the visiting route, you will see how the art of azulejos and its technique developed with time.

 

Azulejos

Estação de São Bento

Estação de São Bento is a small but tremendously decorated railway station in the center of Porto (Portugal). The station is located quite close to the Liberdade Square in a one minute distance from the monument of Dom Pedro the IVth and less than a ten-minute walk from the Dom Luis the Ist bridge. The place is definitely on the must-see list while visiting Porto.

The station’s construction began in the late 19th century and continued into the early 20th century under the direction of architect José Marques da Silva. Its elegant architecture seamlessly blends Belle Époque and Beaux-Arts styles. The internal walls of the main hall are fully covered with traditional Portuguese tile work (called azulejos) depicting scenes of the Portuguese history, showcasing moments like battles, royal processions, and everyday life. The pictures had been compiled of more than 20,000 single tiles.

In addition to São Bento, Marques da Silva left a lasting legacy through numerous other buildings, including schools, banks, and private residences. Trained at the Academy of Fine Arts in Porto and later at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, Marques da Silva’s work is characterized by a fusion of various architectural styles, including Beaux-Arts and Art Nouveau, showcasing a versatile and innovative approach to design.

Estação de São Bento