Rouen

Normandy is today best known to the world as a place where the allied forces landed onshore to begin one of the most significant military operations in world history that finally ended with the defeat of Nazi Germany.  The other association that comes forth quite quickly is the famous Mont St. Michel Abbey – one of the most frequently visited spots in Europe.

Yet, Normandy played quite a role in the history of Europe already at the beginning of the second Millennium. Like other coastal locations of the Western and Northern Europe, Normandy became a target of Viking raiders, who looted it many times. One of the Viking leaders known as Rollo made peace with a French king. In exchange for a right to settle down in Normandy, he promised to cease hostilities and accepted Christianity. With years, the Viking descendants melted with the local community giving birth to the so-called Norman culture.

A Norman king William, later known as William the Conqueror, claimed his rights to the English throne, which that time was in the hands of another branch of Viking descendants. After the successful military campaign, he was crowned as the king of England and introduced the Norman order in the English society.

For more than two hundred years, from XII to XV century,  the so-called Anglo-Norman dynasty ruled both England and Northern parts of France. The Anglo-Norman language was the official language that for good influenced English leaving it with many words of Nordic or German (Vikings) and French origin.

The very center of Normandy is Rouen, with its beautiful historic city dominated by a huge Gothic cathedral. In its right nave, you will find the grave of Rollo, the Viking who had chosen Normandy his home. The Cathedral of Rouen was many times partially destroyed by warfare, bombing, religious schisms, revolution, lighting, fire as well as construction mistakes. The list of damage is quite a long one. Yet each time it was rebuilt. Its contemporary look took hundred of years of works and many funds. Already if you look at its front, you will notice at the first site the architectural inconsistencies between its parts (compare, for example, the design of towers).

The cathedral of Rouen.

The historical city of Rouen, like many other historical cities in the region, had been carefully refurbished. Of interest are, of course, the half-timbered houses with timber frames painted in different colors. Half timbering was a construction technique used in medieval times in Western and Northern Europe. The main structure of a house was made of wooden poles. The space between them was filled with other materials, sometimes stone, but sometimes a mixture of cheaper ones. The upper floors of those houses were often bigger than the basement or chambers of a higher floor overhang over the first floor over the street. This way, the builders kept the streets wider but provided more housing space on the upper floors.

Half-timbered houses in the historical city of Rouen.

Yet, the city of Rouen witnessed another legendary event in its early years. If you get to the main square of the historical city in its midst, you will find a church. To be frank, it looks a bit as off place. But if you walk it around, you will find a small field of wildflowers and a small board beneath it explaining that it is where Jeanne d’Arc, a French hero, was burned at stake. At the church wall, a bit hidden, you will find a statue of Joanne d’Arc consumed by flames.

The main square of the historic city of Rouen. In its midst, a church, and behind it, the place where Joanne d’Arc was burned at stake.

Jeanne d’Arc (1412-1431) called the Maid of Orléans was a hero of the so-called 100 years war, a period when France struggled to recover from the English domination. The war started as the descendants of William the Conqueror (of the English-Norman dynasty) claimed through years the right to the French throne.

As a teenager, Jeanne d’Arc had a vision of saints, who told her to fight against the English and help the French Dauphin (heir to the French throne) to regain the rule over the French territory. Following her visions, she engaged in politics and military actions. Ultimately, she managed to attract the interest of the French Dauphin himself. Although she was wearing armor, according to historians, she never engaged in a fight. But on battlefields, she carried a banner. She was serving as a military advisor, as well.

For the fate of the campaign against the English changed with her appearance (including the ending of the siege of Orleans), she gained a symbolic status.

After she was captured by a group of French nobles allied with the English, she stood trial and was burned at stake on 30 May 1431. Ages later, she was declared a national symbol of France by the decision of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Rouen

Still on half-timbered houses in Northern France

Half-timbering technique was a popular method to build houses in medieval and early modern times in Northern Europe, including regions such as Denmark, England, Scotland, Germany (formerly including Prussia), parts of France, and Switzerland.

Houses were constructed by first installing timber frames as the primary structural element. The spaces between the timber (often referred to as posts or beams) were then filled with various materials such as wattle and daub, stones, or bricks, which provided insulation and stability. Half-timbered buildings were often ornamented with intricate carvings or brightly painted, adding to their aesthetic appeal.

In medieval towns, to maximize housing space along narrow streets, many houses featured overhanging upper floors extending beyond the ground floor. These overhangs are known as ‘jetties.’ Jettied houses were not only a space-saving solution but also a status symbol in some regions. The design helped protect the lower parts of the building from the elements and allowed for more space on the upper floors. It’s important to note that this technique also had practical implications in terms of taxation, as taxes were often based on the ground floor’s footprint.

The streets of historic towns in Northern France are a mixture of different architecture styles, reflecting their rich past and the impacts of various events, such as fires or war damage. In some cases, these towns have preserved their original architecture, while in others, buildings have been carefully rebuilt to mirror their historical appearance.

On pictures above you can see three main characteristics: grey sandstone bricks, slate roofs that sometimes cover also part of facades at upper floors and half-timbered walls with timber frames painted mostly in blue, red and green. Grey sandstone is locally sourced and very durable. Slate is a common roofing material in this region, known for its longevity and resistance to harsh weather. Interestingly, in some buildings, slate is also used to cover parts of the facades, especially on upper floors. The half-timbering technique, where the timber frames are left exposed and filled with other materials, is a prominent feature. In Northern France, these timber frames are often painted in vibrant colors like blue, red, and green, adding a lively contrast to the otherwise muted tones of the stone and slate.

Still on half-timbered houses in Northern France

The Mulberry harbour. Allied Logistics in Normandy

Many people around Europe when asked about Normandy in France, will quickly associate it with the D-Day. D-Day was the most massive seaborne invasion in history that took place on the 6th of June 1944. Allied forces from around 13 countries, among other US American, Canadian and British started an invasion aiming to liberate Europe from the Nazi Germany occupation.

The operation was planned for months in advance, with a large-scale deception campaign to mislead the Germans about the intended location of the invasion. On the day of the operation, over 156,000 Allied troops, including American, British, and Canadian soldiers, landed on the beaches of Normandy in northern France. The operation was preceded by airborne landings by paratroopers and glider-borne troops, who were tasked with securing key strategic points behind enemy lines. The landings themselves were met with heavy resistance from the German army, but ultimately the Allies were successful in establishing a foothold on French soil. The success of the D-Day invasion allowed the Allies to begin pushing the Germans out of France and ultimately led to the liberation of Paris on August 25, 1944. The operation was a major victory for the Allies and marked a turning point in the war, setting the stage for the eventual defeat of Germany.

Thus, sightseeing in Normandy, we planned to visit the Gold Beach, one of five beaches where the landing took place. Gold Beach was located on the eastern side of the Allied landing zone, between Omaha Beach to the west and Juno Beach to the east.

Gold Beach was assigned to the British 50th (Northumbrian) Infantry Division, supported by amphibious tanks of the 27th Armoured Brigade. The primary objective of the division was to capture the coastal towns of Arromanches and Bayeux, secure the bridges over the River Seulles, and link up with the Canadians at Juno Beach. The initial landing on Gold Beach was made by elements of the 50th Division at around 7:30 am, with the support of naval gunfire and aircraft. The beach was heavily fortified and defended by German troops, but the Allies were able to establish a beachhead and advance inland. The British were able to achieve their objectives for the day, including the capture of Arromanches. The capture of Bayeux on June 7th allowed the British to link up with the Americans at Omaha Beach and create a continuous front along the Normandy coast. The Battle for Gold Beach continued for several weeks as the Allies pushed inland, encountering strong resistance from the German forces. The successful landing at Gold Beach was a key part of the D-Day invasion.

In Arromanches and the Gold Beach we expected to see a monument and some wreckage of military equipment. Below, the views we saw on spot.

Not being a specialist in military issues, I thought that the wreckage we saw was that what was left of the floating or landing equipment. However, it was not. The collective knowledge is that during the landing, there were severe fights with a high death toll. But often it is forgotten that to provide soldiers with equipment, food and other things one needs to bring in much cargo. D-Day was also a large logistics operation. As the regular ports were in Nazi hands, the allied forces had to construct a provisional harbor. The solution was to build artificial harbors that could be towed across the English Channel and assembled on the Normandy coast. In fact, there were two harbors established – one at Omaha Beach and one in Arromanches at the Gold Beach called Port Winston.

Those ports had been named Mulberry harbours adter the Mulberry trees that grow in Britain. The code name “Mulberry” was chosen for the project because it was felt that it would be easy to remember and to keep secret. The connection between the Mulberry Harbours and Mulberry trees is primarily a naming coincidence.

The Mulberry Harbour was made up of a series of prefabricated concrete caissons, steel pontoons, and floating roadways that could be assembled and towed across the English Channel from Britain. Once in Normandy, the components were assembled to create a large artificial harbor that could accommodate the landing of troops, vehicles, and supplies.

Port Winston was the harbor at Arromanches and was completed just 10 days after the initial landings. It consisted of an outer breakwater formed by old ships, concrete caissons, and steel blocks, and an inner harbor created by floating roadways that were connected to the shore. Port Winston was a remarkable engineering achievement, allowing the Allies to bring in over 2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles, and 4 million tons of supplies during the campaign in Normandy. The harbor remained in operation for several months and was critical to the success of the Allied campaign, allowing them to maintain a steady flow of troops and supplies despite German efforts to disrupt their supply lines. Today, the remains of Port Winston can still be seen at Arromanches, including the concrete caissons that formed the outer breakwater and the remains of the floating roadways that made up the inner harbor. It remains a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Allies during World War II.

Below a sequence of pictures, I did in a small memorial center in Arromanches looking at an old panorama picture hanging at the entrance showing the harbor as it was operated in 1944.

The port was under operation for 10 months till regular ports on the continent were taken back from the Nazis. (The other one at the Omaha beach was destroyed earlier by a storm).

The Mulberry harbour. Allied Logistics in Normandy