Exploring the Trulli in Alberobello

Last autumn, we took a family trip to southern Italy. Although we planned to meet up there, I chose a different route from the rest of the family and couldn’t resist spending a few days in Rome. We agreed that once I arrived in Bari, I would hire a car, and each day we would set off to explore a new destination. With autumn in full swing, the usual crowds were gone. The weather was mild, but chill. Perefect conditions for sightseeing.

One of the towns we visited was Alberobello. We wandered through the town centre, visited the local ctahedral, but our main focus was exploring the trulli district, known for its unique houses. Since we had a spirited two-year-old with us, we were fortunate to find parking right in the town centre, close to the entrance of the trulli area, where parking spaces were reserved for families with young children.

Alberobello is a charming town located in the Apulia region of southern Italy. The town is about 55 kilometres southeast of Bari, the regional capital. The town is surrounded by a landscape of vineyards and orchards, offering a quintessentially Mediterranean setting. As we approached Alberobello, just a few kilometres away, we began to spot the first trulli.

We later discovered that many of these unique homes are still inhabited. However, on the hill where the largest concentration of trulli is found, many appeared unoccupied. These were well-maintained, but due to their challenging access – both by car and on foot – it’s likely they are mainly kept for the tourist season. Outside of this period, the owners probably stay elsewhere, and there aren’t many tourists eager to spend the night. We had the chance to explore a few of the trulli from the inside, as some have been converted into small shops and restaurants. The interiors are incredibly cosy and quite modernly equipped.

The origins of the trulli in ALberobello date back to the 14th century, during a time when the Kingdom of Naples ruled the region. Local landlords wanted to avoid paying taxes on permanent dwellings, which were imposed by the Spanish rulers at the time. To circumvent these taxes, they encouraged the construction of temporary, easily dismantled homes. The result was the trullo, a structure built entirely without mortar, using only local limestone.

The technique of dry-stone construction allowed for easy disassembly if the need arose, but it also proved remarkably durable. The thick stone walls provided excellent insulation against both the summer heat and winter cold, making the trulli comfortable year-round. The conical roofs were constructed by laying limestone slabs in a circular pattern, creating a self-supporting structure that required no internal framework.

The unique architectural style of the trulli also had a symbolic aspect. Many of the conical roofs are topped with pinnacles, which could be religious or mystical symbols, possibly linked to local superstitions or beliefs. Additionally, some trulli have painted symbols on their roofs, thought to ward off evil or bring good fortune.

Over time, what started as a practical solution to a tax problem evolved into a beloved and distinctive architectural style. While some trulli in Alberobello fell into disrepair, others were maintained, restored, and even modernized. Today, as we could have seen it, many trulli have been transformed into homes, guesthouses, shops, and restaurants.

Exploring the Trulli in Alberobello

The Cold Beet Soup: A Refreshing Eastern European Dish for Summer

Usually, when travelling and taking photos, I focus on architecture, artefacts, and landscapes. Occasionally, I photograph dishes served in local restaurants, but these photos rarely capture the taste and ingredients. When I have the time and inclination to cook, I try to follow traditional recipes found online to recreate the flavours and aromas of the dishes I’ve tried abroad. The cold beat soup is also a traditional dish in my country. In fact, it was even served today in the canteen where I work.

It’s a seasonal soup, served as a refreshment in the summer. As you might have guessed, this soup is served cold and is best enjoyed straight from the fridge. Unusual, isn’t it?

Cold beet soup, to my knowledge, originates from Lithuania, where it is called Šaltibarščiai. In Lithuania, the traditional ingredients for cold beet soup typically include beets, kefir or buttermilk, cucumbers, fresh dill, green onions, and hard-boiled eggs, with sour cream as an optional addition. Boiled potatoes are often served on the side.

However, as many territories in Central and Eastern Europe were part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth during the Medieval Ages, this dish is widespread in present-day local kitchens in numerous countries. In Poland, it is known as Chłodnik, closely resembling the Lithuanian version with ingredients like beets, cucumbers, kefir or yogurt, and dill. In Russia, a similar soup called Svekolnik often includes kefir, cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs, and sometimes kvass instead of dairy. Latvia‘s version, Aukstā zupa, features beets, kefir, cucumbers, dill, and sometimes boiled potatoes or radishes. Ukraine’s Holodnyk is made with beets, kefir or sour cream, cucumbers, and occasionally radishes and green onions. Belarus serves Khaladnik, which includes beets, cucumbers, kefir, and is typically garnished with fresh herbs like dill and green onions.

Some time ago, I tasted cold beet soup in a Jewish restaurant in Tykocin, Northern Poland (closer to Lithuania than Warsaw where I live), which differed slightly from the version I know from Poland and Vilnius. It maintained the core components but was additionally flavoured with garlic and horseradish for extra zest. As far as I can recall, but it might have been in another restaurant, pickled cucumbers and radish had been added to the soup. What is interesting, I always thought this soup was impossible to ruin. But a few weeks ago, I was in a quite renowned restaurant in Warsaw, where I was served the worst cold beet soup I have ever had. The chef filled the soup with an excessive amount of dill and garlic, making it inedible. Dill and garlic are simply meant to be flavourings in a good cold beet soup, not its main ingredients.

To make the traditional Lithuanian cold beet soup, you will need the following ingredients (4-6 servings):

  • 4 medium-sized beets
  • 1 litre of kefir or buttermilk
  • 2 cucumbers
  • 4 green onions
  • a small bunch of fresh dill (about 30 grams)
  • 4 hard-boiled eggs
  • 2 tablespoons of sour cream (optional)

Start by boiling the beets until they are tender. Once cooked, peel and grate the beets into a large bowl. Pour the kefir or buttermilk over the grated beets and mix well to combine. This step ensures that the beets are thoroughly blended with the dairy, creating a smooth base for the soup.

Next, finely chop the cucumbers, green onions, and fresh dill, and add them to the beet mixture. Peel and chop the hard-boiled eggs into small pieces and stir them into the bowl. If desired, add a spoonful of sour cream to enhance the creaminess and flavour of the soup. Season the mixture with salt to taste, and let it chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour to allow the flavours to meld. When ready to serve, ladle the chilled soup into bowls and garnish with additional dill or green onions if desired.

You may also like the recipes for: French Onion Soup, German Potato and Sausage Eintopf, French Beef Bourguignon, East European Solyanka or New Zealand Chowder.

The Cold Beet Soup: A Refreshing Eastern European Dish for Summer

A Short Note on the History of Estonia

A year ago, I traveled through the Baltic States. While I was already somewhat familiar with Latvia and Lithuania from earlier visits, Estonia remained largely unknown to me. Since then, I’ve shared a gallery of photos from Tallinn – Estonia’s capital, once known as Reval. This short note on Estonia’s history marks my first written post about the country, offering a bit of historical background to accompany the images.

Before the Middle Ages, the territory of present-day Estonia was inhabited by various tribes of Finno-Ugric origin. The Finno-Ugric peoples are part of the Uralic language family, which includes modern Estonians, Finns, and Hungarians, among others. Their original homeland was located somewhere in the region around the Ural Mountains. The predominant tribe in the area was the Eesti (Maarahvas), the direct ancestors of the modern Estonian people. The social structure of these tribes was relatively egalitarian compared to the feudal systems that later emerged. They were organised into clans or kinship groups, each led by a chieftain or elder. Decision-making was often communal, involving assemblies of free men that played a crucial role in resolving disputes, organising defence, and managing communal resources. Finno-Ugric tribes in Estonia believed in a pantheon of spirits and deities associated with nature, such as forests, rivers, and animals.

The mediaeval period brought significant changes to Estonia, particularly through the Northern Crusades led by German and Danish forces in the early 13th century. These crusades aimed to Christianize the pagan Baltic tribes, including the Estonians. Northern Estonia fell under Danish control, while southern Estonia fell under the influence of the Livonian Brothers of the Sword, a military order and a branch of the Teutonic Knights. This period marked the beginning of feudalism in Estonia, with the native population subjected to serfdom under German and Danish lords. In 1346, Danes sold their part of Estonia to the Teutonic Knights. In the late 13th century, the Livonian Confederation was formed, a loose alliance of bishoprics, the Livonian Order, and other territories in present-day Estonia and Latvia. Tallinn (Reval), a major port city, joined the Hanseatic League in 1285, becoming an important centre of trade between Europe and Russia. Despite internal conflicts and peasant uprisings, the mediaeval period saw economic growth and the spread of Christianity, with numerous churches and monasteries built across the region. However, the native Estonian population remained largely subjugated.

The 16th century brought turmoil in the history of Estonia with the Livonian War, as regional powers, including Russia, Poland-Lithuania, and Sweden, vied for control over the Baltic territories. The conflict resulted in the dissolution of the Livonian Confederation. Estonia was divided, with northern Estonia coming under Swedish control and southern Estonia and Latvia falling to the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Swedish crown implemented administrative reforms, improved education, and attempted to reduce the power of the German nobility. However, as a result of the Swedish-Russian war at the beginning of the 18th century, Estonia fell to the Russian Empire. Later, as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth was partitioned, the southern parts of Estonia also fell to Russia. Under Russian rule, Estonia became part of the Governorate of Estonia in the north and the Governorate of Livonia in the south. The Estonian nobility retained much of their privileges, but the local peasantry remained in serfdom until the early 19th century.

The 19th century saw the rise of national consciousness among Estonians, influenced by the broader European nationalist movements. The Estonian National Awakening, characterised by the development of a national culture, language, and identity, gained momentum in the late 19th century. The early 20th century was a period of great upheaval. The Russian Revolution of 1917 and the subsequent civil war created a power vacuum in the Baltic region. On February 24, 1918, the Estonian Declaration of Independence was issued, marking the birth of the Republic of Estonia. Independence was brief due to German occupation during World War I. Estonia then fought the Estonian War of Independence (1918–1920) and secured recognition through the Tartu Peace Treaty on February 2, 1920. The interwar period saw efforts to establish democracy, economic growth, and cultural development.

Estonia’s independence ended in 1939. During World War II, Estonia was alternately under Soviet and German occupation. This period was marked by repression, suppression of national identity, significant loss of life, and destruction. In 1944, four decades of Sovietization began, including industrialization, collectivization, and Russification. Despite these efforts, a strong sense of national identity persisted among Estonians. The 1980s brought significant change as the Soviet Union began to weaken. The Singing Revolution, a series of peaceful protests and demonstrations, played a crucial role in Estonia’s path to restored independence. The movement was marked by large-scale singing events and public gatherings, expressing national unity and the desire for freedom.

On August 20, 1991, Estonia declared the restoration of its independence. In the years that followed, the country underwent rapid political and economic reform. Estonia joined the European Union and NATO in 2004, further integrating into Western structures. It has since embraced digital innovation, becoming a pioneer in e-governance and digital society — often referred to as one of the most digitally advanced countries in the world.

A Short Note on the History of Estonia