The Olomouc Cathedral

Olomouc is a historic city in the eastern Czech Republic, located in the Moravian region. Its well-preserved old town centers around the Lower Square (Dolní náměstí) and the Upper Square (Horní náměstí). The city’s origins trace back to the 10th century as a fortified settlement and later became the capital of Moravia. By the 11th century, Olomouc had become the seat of the Bishopric, marked by the consecration of St. Wenceslas Church, which later became the Olouc Cathedral in 1777 when the diocese was elevated to an archbishopric.

Olomouc flourished during the 14th and 15th centuries, despite the challenges of the Hussite Wars. Its strategic location on trade routes fostered commerce, creating a thriving market that attracted merchants. This wealth, along with the influence of the ruling elite, led to the construction of significant architectural landmarks. In the late Middle Ages, Olomouc emerged as well as a cultural and educational center, with the Jesuit College, which later became the University of Olomouc. The Thirty Years’ War saw Olomouc occupied by the Swedish army from 1642 to 1650, significantly impacting the city. Later on, the Baroque era brought reconstruction and the creation of landmarks, such as the Holy Trinity Column, built between 1716 and 1754 in response to a plague. Many of Olomouc’s churches, including the Gothic Cathedral of Saint Wenceslas, underwent various architectural transformations and feature opulent Baroque designs.

The city’s development was significantly influenced by the financial contributions and political influence of the Liechtenstein and Dietrichstein families. The House of Liechtenstein, one of Europe’s oldest noble families, funded numerous architectural projects in Olomouc to demonstrate their power and piety. The Dietrichstein family, originating from Austria, also played a pivotal role in the city’s development. Cardinal Franz von Dietrichstein, the most notable family member, served as the Bishop of Olomouc from 1599 to 1636. His tenure was marked by vigorous Counter-Reformation efforts, including the establishment of Jesuit institutions in the city and the construction of Baroque religious edifices, such as the Church of St. Michael.

Today, Olomouc is known for its historical city, with the votive columns, baroque fountains, churches and a prominent astronomical clock decorating the Town Hall, highlighting its rich historical and architectural heritage.

The Cathedral of Olomouc is located in its historical center. It is dedicated to Saint Wenceslas, who is a patron saint of Bohemia and a symbol of Czech statehood.  Wenceslas was the Duke of Bohemia from 921 until his assassination in 935. Wenceslas was a devout Christian who promoted the building of churches and was widely regarded as a benevolent leader. He was assassinated by his brother, who unlike Wenceslas had seen the Christian religion rather as a way to extend his political powers. The Olomouc Cathedral, also known as St. Wenceslas Cathedral, traces its origins back to the early 12th century. Founded around 1107 by Prince Svatopluk of the Přemyslid dynasty, the church was established to create a new bishopric center in Olomouc, underscoring the city’s burgeoning significance within the Moravian territory. At the time, Moravia was under the influence of the Holy Roman Empire, which played a crucial role in the region’s religious and cultural development. The cathedral was consecrated in 1131 and initially constructed in the Romanesque style.

The Olomouc Cathedral suffered significant damage due to fires in 1204 and 1266. These disasters necessitated substantial reconstruction efforts, which were undertaken at the behest of Bishop Bruno of Schaumburg. The decision to rebuild the cathedral in the High Gothic style was indicative of the architectural evolution occurring across Europe. The current Gothic structure dates mainly from the 13th century. However, if you look closely at the current cathedral facade on its left-hand side, you will notice a small building connecting the cathedral with the adjacent buildings. This is the remainder of the old Romanesque cathedral.

The presbytery dates from 1617-1618. In 1803, after a lightning strike, all three original towers were destroyed and replaced by a single central tower in a Classicist style. From 1883 to 1892, the cathedral underwent a Neo-Gothic renovation, adding two 68-meter front towers, three Neo-Gothic portals with tympanums, the Chapel of Saints Cyril and Methodius on the north side, and a 100.65-meter main tower on the south side of the presbytery, reinforced by six pillars with Gothic windows. In modern times, the cathedral was carefully restored between 2004 and 2007.


The Olomouc Cathedral as you approach it, enter it, get closer and closer to the apse and the main altar (closed behind bars so you can only make close ups) and trun around to see the Cathedrals’ exit.

The Olomouc Cathedral houses significant relics of Saint John Sarkander, a prominent figure in the history of the Roman Catholic Church in Moravia. John Sarkander was a Catholic priest who became a martyr during the Thirty Years’ War. During the conflict between Protestant and Catholic forces, Sarkander was accused of conspiring with the enemy and was subsequently arrested. Despite enduring severe torture, he refused to divulge confessional secrets, ultimately leading to his death in 1620. The relics are kept in a chest displayed prominently in the main nave on the right-hand side, enclosed within a protective glass box. Atop the glass box stands a statue of Saint John Sarkander. The site where John Sarkander was tortured to death is commemorated by a chapel devoted to his name. 

The statue and the relics od Saint Johan Sarkander in the Olomouc Cathedral.

Below details of the Olomouc Cathedral interior.

The Olomouc Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral of Wloclawek. Light, Detail, Silence

In the spring, we took a short trip to a spa located near Wloclawek in central Poland. We hadn’t planned on sightseeing, but on our way back, we decided to stop by the Cathedral of Wloclawek, as it’s a must-visit landmark in this part of the country. It was a Sunday afternoon. The cathedral was empty and most of the lights were off, but it was still open. When editing the photos, I had to brighten them up a bit. Still, even in the dim light, the impressive decorations of the interior were clearly visible.

Włocławek is a town located in central Poland. Already a thousand years ago, it was home to a settlement of the Goplan tribe. In the 10th century, the area was incorporated into the Piast state by Mieszko I, who is considered the first ruler of Poland. Włocławek is one of Poland’s oldest towns, having received its town rights in 1255. During the Middle Ages, it was an important trade and administrative centre.

In 1329, the Teutonic Knights attacked Włocławek as part of a broader campaign. The city was plundered, with many buildings, including the Romanesque cathedral, destroyed or severely damaged. This conflict with the Teutonic Order was only resolved after their defeat at the Battle of Grunwald. During the 15th and 16th centuries, Włocławek flourished as a significant trade hub due to its location on the Vistula River, a crucial trade route linking southern Poland with the Baltic coast. The river facilitated the exchange of goods such as grain, wood, salt, furs, and fish. Regular markets and fairs attracted merchants from various regions, contributing to the town’s prosperity. Craftsmanship was also a key part of the local economy, with numerous guilds operating in the town.

Like much of Poland, Włocławek suffered considerable damage during the Swedish wars in the 17th century. In the 19th century, following the partitions of Poland, the town came under Russian rule, generally viewed negatively in Poland. However, this period saw the town’s industrialisation, with the establishment of factories, including sugar refineries, mills, and chemical plants, making it a significant industrial centre. In 1873, Gustaw Becker founded the Faience Factory, whose products gained acclaim both domestically and internationally.

During World War II, many historic buildings in Włocławek were damaged or destroyed, but post-war restoration efforts aimed to revive them. The Cathedral of Wloclawek, one of the town’s key landmarks, suffered some damage but was restored and remains a major tourist attraction. After World War II, Włocławek also rebuilt its faience factory. To this day, I have quite a collection of decorative porcelain in my kitchen. However, the Faience Factory closed in 1991 after nearly 120 years of production due to changing market conditions following Poland’s political transformation. Despite the factory’s closure, Włocławek’s ceramic traditions continue through local craftsmen and artists who uphold the legacy of the town’s faience. When we visited Włocławek, we saw shops selling porcelain with designs reminiscent of those produced decades ago.

The construction of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Włocławek, or simply the Cathedral of Wloclawek, began in 1340. Prior to this, there were at least two churches in Włocławek that might have served as the town’s main churches, but they were located in different places from the new cathedral. One of them was presumably a cathedral built in Roman style. The history of these early cathedrals still requires research, which can now only be provided by archaeological excavations.

The history of the third and current Cathedral of Wloclawek begins when the Teutonic Knights, supported by Czech forces, destroyed and plundered the city. The invaders ravaged the town, particularly targeting the bishop’s property. During this attack, the Romanesque cathedral was also burned down. The Teutonic Knights, under threat of death, forbade the rebuilding of the bishop’s town and cathedral, intending to subordinate the local diocese to the Order. In 1330, Bishop Maciej of Gołańcz decided to sign an agreement with the Teutonic Master, Werner von Orseln, which allowed him to some extent organise religious life in the devastated city.

The cornerstone was laid in 1340, with construction beginning in a new location outside the town, near the Vistula escarpment. The building process was lengthy, spanning several decades and reflecting the architectural styles and techniques of the period. The cathedral was consecrated in 1411 after the completion of the nave. By the end of the 15th century, the cathedral had assumed its impressive Gothic form, characterised by soaring arches, intricate stonework, and expansive stained glass windows. Over the centuries, the cathedral has undergone numerous modifications and restorations, each adding to its rich historical tapestry.

In the 17th century, Baroque elements were introduced, most notably in the form of altars and interior decorations. In the late 19th century, the cathedral underwent significant Gothic revival work, with the replacement of details and the heightening of both towers. This work also involved replacing numerous interior elements, which obscured the original Gothic character. Much of the modern-era furnishings were also removed. These works were completed in 1902, and in 1907, Włocławek Cathedral was designated a minor basilica.

We didn’t stay long, but it was enough for the cathedral to leave an impression. Sometimes you only notice things after the fact — in the photos, in the small details you missed at first. Maybe that’s why these unplanned stops often end up being the most memorable.

Inside the Cathedral of Wloclawek. Light, Detail, Silence

A Quick Guide to the History of the Netherlands

When traveling, especially when we are focused on a lot of sightseeing, it’s worth getting acquainted with the history of the country to understand what we see. Below a quick overview on the history of the Netherlands or in English the Low Countries.

In ancient times, the area now known as the Netherlands was part of the Roman province of Germania Inferior. The northern territories remained largely outside Roman control. They were inhabited by various Germanic tribes. As the Roman Empire declined, the region experienced significant political fragmentation and waves of migration. The vacuum left by the Romans was filled by the Merovingian-ruled Frankish Kingdom, integrating the Netherlands into their territories. Missionaries like Saint Willibrord and Saint Boniface played crucial roles in converting the local pagan tribes to Christianity, laying the foundation for a unified cultural and religious identity.

A mural Charlemagne and Einhard by Georg Sturm that can be seen at the West side of the Great Hall of Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

As Charlemagne did not appoint a single successor but divided the Kingdom among his sons, after the split of the Frankish Kingdom, the Netherlands became part of East Francia, the precursor to modern Germany. The 9th and 10th centuries were marked by turmoil and Viking raids, prompting the construction of fortified towns and defensive structures. The central authority of East Francia weakened, leading to the rise of feudalism. Local lords, counts, and dukes gained more power and autonomy, governing their own territories. The Low Countries saw the emergence of several important counties and duchies, such as the County of Flanders, the Duchy of Brabant, and the County of Holland. These entities played a significant role in regional politics and economics. Increased trade and economic activity led to the growth of cities. Important medieval cities included Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp in Flanders (today Belgium), as well as Utrecht and Dordrecht in the northern provinces.

Historic city of Ghent, today in Belgium

In the 14th and 15th centuries, the Low Countries came under the influence of the Duchy of Burgundy. Through a series of marriages, inheritances, and political manoeuvres, the Burgundian dukes, notably Philip the Good and Charles the Bold, consolidated control over most of the region. The Burgundian period saw efforts to centralise administration and strengthen ducal authority. The marriage of Mary of Burgundy to Maximilian I of Austria in 1477 brought the Burgundian Netherlands under the control of the Habsburg dynasty. Their son, Philip the Handsome, married Joanna of Castile, linking the Low Countries to the Spanish crown. The most significant Habsburg ruler in he history of the Netherlands was Charles V, who inherited the region in 1506. Under his rule, the Netherlands became part of the vast Habsburg Empire, which included Spain, the Holy Roman Empire, and various other territories.

When Charles V abdicated in 1556, his son Philip II inherited the Spanish crown and the Netherlands. Philip II’s reign marked the beginning of a difficult and oppressive period for the Dutch. His centralised and authoritarian approach clashed with the relatively autonomous and pluralistic traditions of the Low Countries. Philip II was a staunch Catholic and sought to enforce religious uniformity across his empire. The introduction of the Spanish Inquisition aimed to root out Protestantism, which was rapidly gaining followers. The Inquisition’s brutal methods, including torture and execution, sparked widespread fear and resentment marking a dark period in the history of the Netherlands.

In addition to religious oppression, Philip II’s heavy taxation and centralised control over local affairs exacerbated tensions. The wealth generated by Dutch trade and commerce was increasingly diverted to support Spain’s wars and imperial ambitions, leading to economic hardships in the Netherlands. The nobility and merchant class, who had traditionally enjoyed a degree of self-governance, found their privileges under threat. In 1568, this discontent ignited the Dutch Revolt, marking the start of a prolonged struggle for independence. The northern provinces rebelled against Spanish rule, leading to the Eighty Years’ War. In 1581, the northern provinces declared independence, leading to the formation of the Dutch Republic. By the end of the 1580s, however, Spanish control was largely re-established in the southern provinces (forming the so-called Spanish Netherlands). These southern regions remained under Habsburg rule and staunchly Catholic, contrasting sharply with the Protestant-dominated northern provinces.

This division resulted in significant socio-economic shifts. The mass migration of skilled labour and merchants from the south to the north fuelled the economic rise of cities like Amsterdam, transforming them into major commercial hubs. Meanwhile, southern cities like Antwerp experienced economic decline as they lost their economic vitality. The consolidation of Spanish control in the southern provinces and the independence of the northern provinces led to the emergence of two distinct entities. The Southern Netherlands, under Habsburg rule, retained its Catholic identity, while the northern Dutch Republic thrived as a centre of Protestantism and trade. This division laid the foundation for the modern distinction between the Netherlands and Belgium.

During the Middle Ages, the Netherlands developed several key sources of wealth that contributed to its economic growth and prosperity. The regions of Flanders and Holland, had fertile soil ideal for agriculture. This allowed for the production of various crops, including grains, vegetables, and flax. The production of dairy products, especially cheese and butter, became a significant source of income, as well. Flanders became renowned for its wool and cloth production. The region imported raw wool from England and produced high-quality textiles that were exported across Europe. The development of sophisticated weaving techniques and the establishment of guilds helped to enhance the quality and reputation of Dutch textiles. The herring fishery was a crucial industry for the Dutch economy. Innovations in fishing techniques and preservation, such as gutting and brining herring at sea, allowed Dutch fishermen to dominate the North Sea herring trade. The coastal and inland waters also provided other fish varieties, contributing to the local diet and trade.

The prosperity from trade and commerce led to the development of early banking and financial systems. Cities like Bruges and Antwerp became financial hubs where merchants could secure loans and conduct business. Craft and merchant guilds played a vital role in regulating trade, maintaining quality standards, and protecting the interests of their members. These organizations helped to foster economic stability and growth throughout the history of the Netherlands.

The restored Van der Beurse family house in Bruges that replaced the original Three Purses tavern, where the first usances of echange trading had been developed.

Many Dutch cities were members of the Hanseatic League or traded with the Hanseatic League cities, a powerful economic and defensive alliance of merchant guilds and market towns in Northwestern and Central Europe. Key ports included Bruges, which thrived as a central hub of the Hanseatic League in the region and an early financial centre; Antwerp, which grew into one of Europe’s largest markets and financial hubs by the 15th century (officially was never a member of the Hanseatic League); and Ghent, renowned for its influential textile industry and strategic river location. Amsterdam began emerging as an important trading city with its fishing and maritime trade, while Dordrecht played a crucial role in inland trade and shipping. Additionally, Kampen and Middelburg were significant Hanseatic ports, engaging in extensive Baltic and North Sea trade. These ports facilitated the flow of goods such as textiles, spices, wine, and timber, laying the foundation for the Low Countries’ later dominance in global trade. During the Middle Ages, Rotterdam, which is the biggest maritime port at present, was not yet the major port city it is today, but it did begin to establish itself as an important regional trading hub by the late medieval period. Initially founded around 1270 when a dam was constructed on the Rotte River, Rotterdam gradually developed due to its strategic location near the confluence of major waterways. By the 14th century, it had received city rights and began to grow more significantly.

Historic city of Bruges, today in Belgium

The Dutch played a crucial role in the Age of Exploration, seeking new trade routes and territories. Explorers like Willem Barentsz ventured into the Arctic, while others navigated the coasts of Africa, Asia, and the Americas. These voyages not only expanded geographical knowledge but also laid the groundwork for future colonial endeavours. Founded in 1602, the Dutch East India Company became the world’s first multinational corporation and the driving force behind Dutch colonial expansion. The company established trading posts and colonies across Asia, including present-day Indonesia, India, and Japan. The control over the spice trade brought immense wealth to the Netherlands, but it also involved exploitative practices and conflicts with indigenous populations. The Dutch West India Company, established in 1621, focused on the Atlantic world, particularly the Americas and West Africa. The company’s activities included the transatlantic slave trade, which had devastating effects on African societies. Dutch colonies in the Caribbean and South America, such as Suriname and New Amsterdam (modern-day New York City), were integral to the WIC’s operations. The colonialism although a source of country’s wealth is one of doubtful events in the history of the Netherlands.

The Home Fleet Saluting the State Barge by Jan van de Cappelle on dispplay at Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

The 17th century, known as the Dutch Golden Age, was a period of unparalleled economic and cultural flourishing. The Netherlands became a leading maritime power, dominating global trade and establishing a vast colonial empire. The Dutch fleet, renowned for its innovation and efficiency, became the backbone of the nation’s prosperity. Amsterdam emerged as a global financial centre, with the establishment of the Amsterdam Stock Exchange and the development of advanced financial instruments. Dutch merchants traded goods such as spices, silk, and precious metals, making the Netherlands one of the wealthiest nations in Europe.

The Golden Age was also a time of remarkable cultural achievements. Unlike in many other parts of Europe where the church and aristocracy were the primary patrons of the arts, in the Dutch Republic, wealthy merchants and the burgeoning middle class became the main sponsors. Their prosperity, derived from trade, finance, and industry, allowed them to invest in art. These patrons often commissioned works to decorate their homes, leading to the growth of private art collections. This demand encouraged artists to produce a wide variety of works, including portraits, landscapes, still lifes, and genre scenes.

The 18th century marked a period of relative decline in the history of the Netherlands. The nation’s economic and naval power waned as rival powers, particularly Britain and France, rose to prominence. Internal political struggles and external conflicts, such as the War of the Spanish Succession and the Fourth Anglo-Dutch War, further weakened the Dutch Republic.

The late 18th century saw the rise of revolutionary sentiments across Europe. In 1795, inspired by the French Revolution, the Batavian Republic was established, replacing the Dutch Republic. However, this new republic soon fell under French influence, leading to the incorporation of the Netherlands into the Napoleonic Empire. The period of French control brought significant administrative and social reforms. After the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, the Congress of Vienna established the Kingdom of the Netherlands, uniting the northern and southern provinces. King William I sought to modernise the country, promoting industrialisation and infrastructure development. However, tensions between the Dutch-speaking north and the French-speaking south led to the Belgian Revolution in 1830, resulting in the independence of Belgium.

A relief depicting the Belgian revolution on the Patria monument in Brussels, Belgium.

The 19th century witnessed significant industrialisation in the history of the Netherlands. The expansion of railways, the development of new industries, and urbanisation transformed the Dutch economy and society. Social movements advocating for workers’ rights, women’s suffrage, and education reforms gained momentum, leading to gradual but important changes in Dutch society.

The Netherlands maintained a policy of neutrality during the First World War, avoiding the widespread destruction that affected much of Europe. Despite its neutrality, the war had significant economic and social impacts, including food shortages and refugee influxes. The Second World War brought unprecedented challenges to the Netherlands in the history of the Netherlands. In May 1940, Nazi Germany invaded, leading to five years of occupation. After the Second World War, the Netherlands embarked on a period of reconstruction and recovery. The Marshall Plan and domestic efforts helped rebuild the economy, leading to a period of rapid growth. The Netherlands became a founding member of key international organisations, including NATO and the European Union.

Modern history of the Netherlands is also about land reclamation. The country has reclaimed approximately 7,000 square kilometers of land from the sea and other bodies of water. Significant reclamation projects include the creation of Flevoland, the largest artificial island in the world, encompassing around 970 square kilometers of land reclaimed from the IJsselmeer as part of the Zuiderzee Works. The Noordoostpolder added another 460 square kilometers to the country. The Delta Works project, while primarily focused on flood protection, also facilitated the reclamation of land in the southwestern Netherlands, such as the reclamation of the island of Goeree-Overflakkee. These efforts have transformed the Dutch landscape, increasing the country’s total land area and enabling the development of fertile agricultural fields, all while pioneering innovative techniques in water management.

Rotterdam city centre. Rotterdam was severely damaged during WWII. A decision was made not to reconstruct its historical town but to structure the city from scratch.

A Quick Guide to the History of the Netherlands