Grand Place No. 9 & 10

The Grand Place of Brussels looks excellent in the daylight, but it is recommendable to visit it in the evening or at night when all lights and illuminations are on. The place, and in particular, the building facades were carefully refurbished in recent years. Today they shine at the full glance. Last month, it was probably the first time for years as I saw Grand Place with no wrappings and scaffolding. I made the picture on a late June afternoon shortly before the sunset. The golden leaf on the facades can be well seen in the sunlight.

The Brussels Grand Place was set up in the Middle Ages as Brussels was a thriving commercial center. The square was paved already in the XIII century. It was surrounded by buildings that for the most part, were financed by the Brussels craft guilds or the wealthy city citizens. The building with the highest tower (left-hand side on the upper photo) is the Town Hall constructed in the XV century. It was built gradually. Hence the asymmetry. The oldest part is its longer left wing. The right-wing, as well as the tower, was constructed thirty years later. The Town Hall is the only original building at the Grand Place. All other buildings had been reconstructed by the end of the XVII century after the Grand Place was bombarded in 1695 by the French forces commanded by Marshall François de Neufville de Villeroy. In fact, the city was so rich that the full reconstruction of Grand Place took only five years after the bombardment. If you look closer at the facades, you will, among others, notice reliefs depicting different crafts. But by far, it is not the only symbol decorating the buildings. The Grand Place is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

Last month while in Brussels I took photos with two cameras. One of them allowed me quite decent close-ups. I just went around the square and made photos of the decorative elements of the facades. Most pictures are still to come. Yet today, also with photos made during my previous stays in Brussels, I can start the long-planned review of the Grand Place buildings. So here they are, Grand Place no. 9 and 10. You will find them in the middle of the lower photo above.

No. 9 Grand Place, Le Cygne, or The Swan is known as the butchers’ guildhall. It is marked by a carved swan above the front door. Initially, already noted in the XV century annals, the building hosted an inn.  After it was destroyed by the French forces in 1695, it was rebuilt three years later for Pierre Fariseau, a financier, as his mansion. You can see the construction date in the upper right corner of the facade. In the XVIII century, the building was acquired by the butchers’ guild. The Brussels guilds otherwise called the Brussels Nations had been dissolved in 1795 during the French occupation. The immovables of the guild together with assets belonging to other guilds had been sold at the public auction held at the Grand Place. Today, Le Cygne regained its original role and hosts a restaurant (a bistro). 

Of curiosities: Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels organized meetings of the Communist League in The Swan. It is said they wrote there some parts of the Communist Party Manifesto. That time, Le Cygne was one of many popular taverns at the Grand Place affordable also for the newly emerging working class.

No. 10 Grand Place, La Maison des Brasseurs (Brewer’s Guildhall) otherwise is called Maison de l’Arbre d’Or (Golden Tree House). Originally it belonged to the guild of tanners and upholsterers. Only from the XVII century, after the house was rebuilt damaged by the French bombing, it served the brewers guild. Today it is the seat of ‘Belgian Brewers’ and hosts a brewery museum. If you look closely at its top, you will notice its name put on in gold leaf as well as the date of its reconstruction (1698). At the top of the building, you will see a golden statue of Charles-Alexandre de Lorraine (governor of the Netherlands in times of the Austrian rule as well as the Grand Master of the Teutonic Order), which was installed in 1752 to replace another statue of Maximilian II Emmanuel of Bavaria.  Although made for the roof, the figure is quite a detailed one (compare the closeup below).

Grand Place No. 9 & 10

Our Lady of Antwerp

It happens quite often that you go to a historical city intending to see a famous building. But on the spot, you see only wrappings and scaffolding. The long-needed renovation works are taking place. So it is today in Antwerp, Belgium. The famous town hall at the Grote Markt is fully wrapped and the higher spire of Our Lady cathedral for its most part, as well. The cathedral is densely surrounded by the historical city. Although the Cathedral is the largest Gothic church in the Low Countries, making clean photos is difficult.

The Antwerp Cathedral seen from the Grote Markt.

Looking from far away onto the Our Lady Cathedral, already, at first sight, one can see the discrepancy between the two towers. The question you ask yourself is, then, was it the original design or the construction works were ceased for some reason. Indeed, a Gothic Cathedral usually consists of two belfries of equal height. And so was the original design. The construction works started in the mid-XIV century. The foundation stone was laid in 1352. During this time, the city was a vital trading center (member of the Hanseatic League), contributing to its economic prosperity. The city became a major financial hub. The construcion of the Cathedral was continued.

But the XVIth century, brought religious tensions, with the rise of Protestantism and the subsequent Spanish Inquisition. Antwerp was heavily affected by the Eighty Years’ War (1568-1648), a conflict for Dutch independence from Spanish rule. In 1585, the Spanish army successfully besieged and captured Antwerp, leading to the city’s decline. In this time after 170 years, works on the Cathedral had been ceased without completion. Several years after, the Cathedral caught fire. It was saved, but the construction works had been postponed. As it turned out, for good. Water used during the firefighting efforts destroyed the ceilings and the Gothic carpentry.

Further damage, came with the French revolution. Our Lady was plundered and severely devastated. The French revolutionary government intended even its demolition, but ultimately the Cathedral was saved. The restoration works began in XIX and ended with a complex revival in the late XX century.

The interiors of Our Lady are now available for visitors for a small fee of EUR 6. Making photos inside, provided that you do not use flash, is allowed. So let us visit the Antwerp Cathedral as it looks like today.

The front looks onto the central nave. Already, at first sight, you notice that the Cathedral is also an art gallery. Some of the huge masterpieces on display are a loan from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp.

The central nave, the side naves, the dome, and the apse.

The interior seems very austere. You will not see there much gold. But the thirty-four huge stained glass windows, detailed carpentry, and huge paintings displayed in the side naves are real eye-catchers. Already, at first sight, you are under the impression, that he Cathedral is an art gallery. You may admire here the works by Rubens as well as other Flemish (or Belgian) masters.

Indeed, until the Reformation and the French revolution, pillars, chapel altars and walls of Our Lady Cathedral were decorated by great paintings of Flemish masters. During the religious and revolutionary struggles, many works were destroyed, removed, stolen, or sold. Ultimately, the Flemish authorities could recover works that survived. In 2009, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Antwerp returned eight of the most beautiful altarpieces to the Cathedral. Furthermore, from 2009, eight other works, mainly triptychs, are on loan from the Museum and had been integrated into the Cathedral’s current interior.

One of the triptychs from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts on display in the Antwerp Cathedral.

As the initially Gothic interior was completed in the renaissance, baroque, and later neo-Gothic style, walking around the Cathedral, you just must stop many times to observe the details. Do not forget to enter the oak choir-stall and to look up. The ceilings, in particular in the side naves, are decorated with frescoes of a very decent but still very decorative look.

Just a small selection of art pieces you can admire in the Cathedral.

Although admitted for visitors, the Cathedral is still an active place of worship. Understandably during a mass, it is off-limits for tourists (it includes regular masses as well as weddings and funerals). As I visited the Cathedral, it was close to 5 pm. Preparations for a mass were already taking place.

Our Lady of Antwerp

Walking the Streets of Historical Ghent

Once again on assignment in Brussels, with work spread over two weeks, I decided to spend the weekend in Belgium. On a rainy Saturday morning, I nearly gave up hope of salvaging the day. But when the skies cleared in the afternoon, I stuck to my original plan. Armed with two cameras, I set off to explore the historic city of Ghent.

Ghent is one of the largest cities in Flanders, located at the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers. In the Middle Ages, it grew into a major centre for trade and textiles, and by the 14th century it ranked among the richest and most influential cities in Europe. Many Gothic landmarks from that period are still standing today, including the Gravensteen castle, St Bavo’s Cathedral and the Belfry.

Here, I’m showing Ghent the way I saw it for the first time – in photos and in the order I walked through it.

The heart of historic Ghent. If you take tram no. 1 from Sint-Pieters railway station to the old town, you’ll get off at Korenmarkt – the point where the dark red and green lines meet on my map.

First, as you look up, you see a street lined with tall Gothic buildings, and above the main roads, a web of cables and tram tracks. It’s an unusual mix. The area is closed to private cars, but as you walk around, you still need to watch out for trams and buses regularly crossing your path.

I bought a day ticket (EUR 7), which turned out to be very useful. If I wanted to change location quickly, instead of walking an extra 10–15 minutes there and back, I could just shorten the route by using a tram. During my four, maybe five hours in the city, I was either walking or taking the tram along two or three streets, leaving the area only once or twice. As it got later in the afternoon, I changed locations to catch the views in different light conditions. As usual, I took plenty of photos. Below is just a selection. Enjoy!

The first view as you get off the tram: to the right, the Saint Nicholas Church, and further back, the 14th-century Belfry (marked by the dark red line on my map). To the left, the Korenmarkt (green line view).

So let us first walk to the right alongside the Saint Bavo Street (dark red line).

Saint Bavo Street. In the first photo, to the left is the Belfry, and straight ahead, the Saint Bavo Cathedral – originally a Romanesque church, rebuilt from the mid-13th century in Gothic style. Shortly before construction was completed in the mid-16th century, the church was plundered by a Calvinist sect: stained glass windows and statues were smashed, and paintings and other artworks destroyed. In the following photos, the Cathedral is shown from the front.

Now I’m standing with my back to the Cathedral. The photos, from left to right, show the Belfry, the passage beside it with the Town Hall in the middle, and on the right, some beautiful buildings on the Cathedral square. My next steps will take me through the passage to the other side of the Belfry (blue line).

The side street led me to the Town Hall (in the first photo, on my left). In the next picture, a quick look up at the Town Hall tower. On the way back, once again, the Belfry appears ahead. I’m now walking back along the blue line on my map.

Yet again, a look up at the Belfry. The way back now leads westward, against the sun. Behind the Belfry stands the Saint Nicholas Church once more – the spot where I first got off tram no. 1. On my map, I’m walking back along the dark red line.

Korenmarkt. On my right-hand side (in the last photo), the other side of the Saint Nicholas Church. I’m now walking along the green line, then turning back westward towards the famous Ghent port quays.

A reverse view from the west side looking east along Saint Bavo Street. In front is the Saint Nicholas Church, further back the Belfry, and in the distance, the Saint Bavo Cathedral. The second photo was taken three hours later than the first one, with the sun already setting – the buildings appear warmer in tone. I’m standing on the Saint Michael’s Bridge, over the River Leie.

On the Saint Michael’s Bridge, looking out over the River Leie (along the pink line on my map). Behind me stands the massive Saint Michael’s Church – I only realised its full scale as I walked down the bridge to the Leie boulevard.

The front view opens onto the Leie boulevards: on my right, the Grass Quay (Graslei), and on my left, the Corn Quay (Korenlei). Both quays were part of the Port of Ghent in medieval times.

On the Leie boulevard behind Korenmarkt, I’m standing on the Corn Quay, looking across at the guild houses on the Grass Quay. In their midst stands the Gildenhuis van de Vrije Schippers. The façades of these medieval buildings were extensively refurbished in the 19th century. I’m now walking along the pink line.

Walking down the Leie boulevards and crossing two more bridges, I reached the Gravensteen – a moated castle originally founded in the 10th century and rebuilt in the late 12th century after a fire. It served its original purpose only until the mid-14th century, after which it shared the fate of many similar buildings across Europe: it was used as a prison, then as a mint, and for a time even as a factory. It was later restored by the Ghent authorities in the 19th century. To move from the pink line to the yellow line on my map, I returned to Korenmarkt via a different bridge to catch a tram. The last photo shows the castle from the back.

Walking the Streets of Historical Ghent