Morlaix * Brittany * medieval architecture * Breton history * travel in France

A few years ago, we spent several days travelling through the French regions of Normandy and Brittany. Naturally, we visited the famous Mont St. Michel Abbey and the Allied landing site in Normandy at Arromanches. However, our main activity was travelling between towns and villages, admiring (and photographing) the local historical architecture, much of which dates back to the late Middle Ages. We weren’t fortunate with the weather, as it was either extremely hot or raining. Since I wasn’t the one planning the trip, at some point, I lost track of where we were. After several days of visiting up to three different places in a single day, it wasn’t difficult to get a bit confused. I only remembered the most distinctive buildings or locations, which later as I was reviewing photos made it fairly easy to piece together where we had been.

Today, I want to focus on the charming town of Morlaix in Brittany, located in the scenic river basin of the Dossen, which flows into the English Channel near the Celtic Sea. This historic town is not only known for its picturesque landscapes but also for its rich medieval history and unique architectural heritage. Morlaix was once a thriving centre for trade, particularly in linen, and its port remains active to this day.

I’ve mentioned Morlaix before on this blog when I wrote a short note about the famous railway viaduct that dominates the town’s skyline. This two-level railway viaduct, built in the 19th century, is an architectural marvel and offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding area.

Viaduct of Morlaix

The origins of Morlaix can be traced back to the Roman era, though it truly began to flourish in the Middle Ages. By the 11th century, it had become an important port and trading centre, benefiting from its coastal location and connection to the sea. During this time, Morlaix developed strong ties with England and other parts of Europe, trading goods such as linen, salt, and wine. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Morlaix was fortified to protect against frequent English raids as well as potential French incursions, reflecting Brittany’s broader efforts to maintain its independence during that era. In the early 16th century, Brittany came under the French crown through the marriage of Duchess Anne of Brittany to two successive French kings, Charles VIII and Louis XII. Despite this union, Morlaix was besieged and captured by the English in 1522, though it was later retaken by the French.

The 16th century saw Morlaix’s prosperity continue, particularly through its thriving linen trade. The town became famous for its production and export of toiles de Morlaix (Morlaix cloth). This period of economic growth led to the construction of many grand houses by wealthy merchants, some of which still stand today. During World War II, Morlaix suffered damage from Allied bombings aimed at disrupting German supply lines, but many of its historic buildings survived.

Today, Morlaix’s historic centre is well-preserved gem of medieval architecture, characterised by narrow, winding streets lined with half-timbered houses, some dating back to the 16th century. These traditional Breton houses, known as maisons à pondalez, are notable for their unique design, featuring internal wooden staircases and large fireplaces. One of the most famous examples is the House of the Duchess Anne, which serves as a museum today.

House of the Duchess Ann

The name of the house is more symbolic than direct, as Anne of Brittany is a celebrated historical figure in the region. She represents the last period of Breton independence before the duchy was absorbed into France. Naming significant buildings after her was a way to honour her legacy and her efforts to preserve Breton autonomy. As the last independent ruler of Brittany, she fought to maintain the duchy’s autonomy but was ultimately compelled to marry into the French crown, leading to the permanent union of Brittany with France.

Morlaix is not just a town with a rich past; it’s a destination that invites visitors to step back in time and explore the beauty of Brittany’s medieval heritage.