The Sacré-Coeur Basilica of Brussels

Some churches impress with their history, others with their location or architectural beauty. The Sacré-Coeur Basilica of Brussels is striking mainly because of its scale and unusual architecture. Standing high on Koekelberg Hill beneath its enormous copper dome, the Basilica feels very different from the historical churches hidden within the narrow streets of central Brussels.

Like many of the world’s largest churches, the Koekelberg Basilica is a relatively modern building. Its construction began in 1905 to commemorate the 75th anniversary of Belgian independence. Initially, the Basilica was designed in the Neo-Gothic style. After the outbreak of World War I, construction works were suspended for several years. As only the foundations had been completed by that time, a decision was eventually made to redesign the project. A new and less expensive Art Deco design was ultimately approved. The Basilica was partially opened for worship in 1935 after the works on the apse had been completed, while the entire construction was finally finished in 1970 with the completion of the massive copper dome that today dominates the Brussels skyline.

The Koekelberg Basilica was originally inspired by the Sacré-Cœur Basilica in Paris, whose construction began in 1875 and was completed in 1914. Apart from the original idea and the monumental scale of the project, however, the two basilicas differ significantly from one another. This is not only because of their architectural style, but also because of their urban setting. Like many monumental national churches of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, both basilicas were deliberately placed on elevated ground overlooking the city. Yet while the Parisian Sacré-Cœur stands on Montmartre Hill in the middle of one of the city’s busiest and trendiest districts, the Koekelberg Basilica is located almost on the outskirts of Brussels and feels much more detached from the everyday tourist routes.

If you are staying near the European Union headquarters or in the historical centre of Brussels, visiting the Basilica requires an additional trip across the city. I visited the place on an early Friday afternoon in beautiful weather. Despite the excellent conditions, the area around the Basilica was almost empty, with only a handful of tourists wandering around. At exactly the same time, both Mont des Arts and Grand Place in the historic centre of Brussels were crowded with tourists and locals. The contrast between the two places felt quite striking.

The exterior of the Koekelberg Basilica.

I had rather mixed impressions while visiting the interior of the Basilica. The building follows a consistent architectural concept, yet it combines many different materials, including reinforced concrete, dimension stone, yellow brick, and terracotta. To be honest, I needed some time to get accustomed to both the materials and the colours used throughout the church. The yellow bricks on the exterior, today heavily darkened by dirt and pollution, felt unusual to me. The yellow-green lighting illuminating the terracotta pillars inside created a similarly strange impression.

Only later, after reading more about the building and its architectural background, did I better understand the idea behind its design. The contrasts I noticed are in fact typical of the Art Deco style. During the first half of the twentieth century, the style was regarded as highly modern. Its period of greatest popularity, however, turned out to be relatively short-lived. Today, the Koekelberg Basilica remains one of the most remarkable examples of monumental Art Deco religious architecture in Europe.

The interior layout also differs from that of a traditional church. In fact, the Basilica contains two large prayer areas arranged one behind the other. The main altar is situated directly beneath the massive dome. Behind it lies the extended apse, which forms another spacious prayer area with an additional altar.

At ground level, the Basilica also contains several smaller modern chapels intended for more private prayer. They are separated by large glass walls, which give this part of the church a distinctly modern atmosphere.

Using either the stairs or a lift, visitors can reach the first floor of the Basilica and walk around the interior galleries for a fee of EUR 6. From above, it is also possible to look down into some of the smaller chapels located on the lower level.

Another lift, located to the right of the main altar on the first floor, takes visitors to the panoramic platform situated directly beneath the dome. Walking around it offers wide views across Brussels and its surrounding districts. Because the Basilica stands somewhat outside the historical centre, spotting some of the city’s most famous landmarks from there is not always easy. The panorama, however, allowed me to notice several less well-known buildings scattered across the wider urban area. Seen from above, some of them looked interesting enough to visit during a future stay in Brussels.

The interior of the Basilica at ground level. The first photo shows the prayer area inside the apse, followed by a view of the left nave, the passage behind the apse and the main altar, a look up into the dome, the central nave and the main altar, and finally the right nave. The private chapels are located to the right of the colonnade visible in the last picture.

Another thing that surprised me in such a modern church was the extensive use of stained glass windows. Almost all windows inside the Basilica contain stained glass, although the style of the images is far more modern than what I am usually accustomed to seeing in churches. Still, they immediately catch the eye. Some of the windows on the first floor consist simply of abstract painted glass compositions, which fit well into the overall Art Deco character of the building.

Just a few pictures of the stained glass windows inside the Basilica.

The Sacré-Cœur Basilica of Brussels definitely deserves a place on any must-see list while visiting the Belgian capital. It is probably not the kind of building most people would return to many times, yet it remains a fascinating place to visit at least once. Besides being one of the largest churches in the world, the Basilica is also one of the most remarkable monuments of twentieth-century Art Deco architecture in Europe.

The Sacré-Coeur Basilica of Brussels

Patria, in commemoration of 1830

Pro Patria, the monument at the Martyrs’ square in Brussels, commemorating the events of 1830. The female figure carved from Carrara marble in 1838 by Guillaume Geefs represents Belgium standing on the chains of oppression after years under foreign rule. Patria is an originally Latin word meaning one’s native country or homeland.

The Martyrs’ square in Brussels and the Patria monument are the burial site of 467 people, who died during fights for Belgian independence. A short gun revolution started after an opera performance held in Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie in August 1830, 25th. The uprising lasted around one month. Most of those people were killed during street fights that took place on 23-26th September 1830. A new Belgian government was established on the 26th of September under a ceasefire. Independence was proclaimed on the 5th of October.

Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie in Brussels, where the Belgian revolution of 1830 started. The theatre is located five minutes of walk from the Martyrs’ square. 

The independence was regained from the Kingdom of the Netherlands (unofficially the United Kingdom of the Netherlands). The Dutch Orange-Nassau House was given the present Belgian territories after the Congress of Vienna in 1815. Before the Dutch rule, Belgians were under Spanish and the Austrian rule (XVII-XVIII centuries), and later after the French revolution and during the Napoleonic wars, they were included in the French Republic. Congress of Vienna was held after the Napoleonic wars and was the first pan-European peace agreement that divided Europe among its most significant powers (>>>). That time the Belgian interests were not taken into account. But still, independence came 15 years later.

The statue at the top of the Patria monument is symbolizing the motherland (otherwise from Latin – Patria) stepping on the chains of oppression.

The Pro Patria monument and reliefs at its base.

Patria, in commemoration of 1830

The Hermitage and the Fortune

The Brussels Grand Place is probably the most glamorous central square of Europe. It is surrounded by very representative buildings funded by numerous Brussels craft guilds. All of them are carefully decorated with busts, sculptures, reliefs, ornaments, and quite much gold leaf. Last month I spent maybe an hour, perhaps even longer on making solely detailed closeups. Now, I am having much fun in discovering the details and facts behind them.

There are thirty-nine houses in Grand Place. Besides the Town Hall, all buildings had been rebuilt from scratch, after a heavy French bombardment of 1695. As the city was very rich, the reconstruction of the square was completed only within five years. One of the most significant buildings is the so-called House of Dukes of Brabant. The name of the building derives from the busts of dukes of Brabant that decorate the facade. Duchy of Brabant was a historical duchy located in Low Countries. Today the title of the Duke of Brabant is only a dynastic one with no lands associated with it. However, the title seems to be of importance for it is nowadays given to the heir to the Belgian throne.

The Brussels Grand Place. The building at the front is called the House of Dukes of Brabant. It hosts seven houses including no. 14 & 15: The Hermitage and The Fortune.

The House of Dukes of Brabant hosts seven house numbers from no. 13 to no. 19. These are from right to left ‘The Fame‘ (La Renommée), ‘The Hermitage‘ (L’Ermitage), ‘The Fortune‘ (La Fortune), ‘The Windmill‘ (Le Moulin à Vent), ‘The Tin Pot‘ (Le Pot d’Étain), ‘The Hill‘ (La Colline) and ‘The Purse‘ (La Bourse).

The House of Dukes of Brabant was hosting several Brussels guildhalls, including those of carpet makers, tanners, millers, cartwrights, and masons. Several emblems or reliefs pointing to the guilds as well as other symbols are decorating the building facade. By some, you can recognize the crafts, although the symbolism is not apparent at first sight.

One of several guild symbols on the facade of the House of Dukes of Brabant.

If you take, a closer look, however, you will see some inconsistency in the decoration. There are three reliefs of a different style decorating the facade. Looking at the closeups I took recently, I could have easily associated one of them with the millers. But with two reliefs over doors to no. 14 & 15 Grand Place, I gave myself a header for several minutes. Till I realized that they are not about the crafts, but about the houses itself. One should keep in mind that the premises around Grand Place changed the owners through history. Guildhalls relocated. But, buildings kept their original names.

House No. 14 hosts the carpet makers and goes with the name ‘The Hermitage‘. The relief over its doors shows a hermit delved in reading. House No. 15 called ‘The Fortune‘ is marked by the blindfolded Fortune bouncing on a turning wheel and flashing coins all around. The Fortune house hosts the tanners.

The reliefs decorating the entrance to ‘The Hermitage’ and ‘The Fortune’.

Also, other house numbers of the House of Dukes of Brabant are marked by symbols reflecting their names. But only ‘The Windmill‘ is decorated by a relief. This one is unlike the others placed at a higher level to the right of the house entranceThe remaining houses are marked by less elaborate symbols made the same style as the guild symbols displayed at a higher level.

A relief decorating ‘The Windmill’ and a symbol over the entrance to ‘The Tin Pot’.

The Hermitage and the Fortune