Grand Place No. 9 & 10

The Grand Place of Brussels looks excellent in the daylight, but it is recommendable to visit it in the evening or at night when all lights and illuminations are on. The place, and in particular, the building facades were carefully refurbished in recent years. Today they shine at the full glance. Last month, it was probably the first time for years as I saw Grand Place with no wrappings and scaffolding. I made the picture on a late June afternoon shortly before the sunset. The golden leaf on the facades can be well seen in the sunlight.

The Brussels Grand Place was set up in the Middle Ages as Brussels was a thriving commercial center. The square was paved already in the XIII century. It was surrounded by buildings that for the most part, were financed by the Brussels craft guilds or the wealthy city citizens. The building with the highest tower (left-hand side on the upper photo) is the Town Hall constructed in the XV century. It was built gradually. Hence the asymmetry. The oldest part is its longer left wing. The right-wing, as well as the tower, was constructed thirty years later. The Town Hall is the only original building at the Grand Place. All other buildings had been reconstructed by the end of the XVII century after the Grand Place was bombarded in 1695 by the French forces commanded by Marshall François de Neufville de Villeroy. In fact, the city was so rich that the full reconstruction of Grand Place took only five years after the bombardment. If you look closer at the facades, you will, among others, notice reliefs depicting different crafts. But by far, it is not the only symbol decorating the buildings. The Grand Place is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

Last month while in Brussels I took photos with two cameras. One of them allowed me quite decent close-ups. I just went around the square and made photos of the decorative elements of the facades. Most pictures are still to come. Yet today, also with photos made during my previous stays in Brussels, I can start the long-planned review of the Grand Place buildings. So here they are, Grand Place no. 9 and 10. You will find them in the middle of the lower photo above.

No. 9 Grand Place, Le Cygne, or The Swan is known as the butchers’ guildhall. It is marked by a carved swan above the front door. Initially, already noted in the XV century annals, the building hosted an inn.  After it was destroyed by the French forces in 1695, it was rebuilt three years later for Pierre Fariseau, a financier, as his mansion. You can see the construction date in the upper right corner of the facade. In the XVIII century, the building was acquired by the butchers’ guild. The Brussels guilds otherwise called the Brussels Nations had been dissolved in 1795 during the French occupation. The immovables of the guild together with assets belonging to other guilds had been sold at the public auction held at the Grand Place. Today, Le Cygne regained its original role and hosts a restaurant (a bistro). 

Of curiosities: Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels organized meetings of the Communist League in The Swan. It is said they wrote there some parts of the Communist Party Manifesto. That time, Le Cygne was one of many popular taverns at the Grand Place affordable also for the newly emerging working class.

No. 10 Grand Place, La Maison des Brasseurs (Brewer’s Guildhall) otherwise is called Maison de l’Arbre d’Or (Golden Tree House). Originally it belonged to the guild of tanners and upholsterers. Only from the XVII century, after the house was rebuilt damaged by the French bombing, it served the brewers guild. Today it is the seat of ‘Belgian Brewers’ and hosts a brewery museum. If you look closely at its top, you will notice its name put on in gold leaf as well as the date of its reconstruction (1698). At the top of the building, you will see a golden statue of Charles-Alexandre de Lorraine (governor of the Netherlands in times of the Austrian rule as well as the Grand Master of the Teutonic Order), which was installed in 1752 to replace another statue of Maximilian II Emmanuel of Bavaria.  Although made for the roof, the figure is quite a detailed one (compare the closeup below).

Grand Place No. 9 & 10

The Crusader King

The statue on the photo below I photographed a bit accidentally in Brussels on the royal route, while standing at a street crossing and waiting for a green light. It was a busy street, with many cars and trams passing by. The photo was not easy to make as the building behind seemed to spoil the picture (in fact an imposing structure of the Brussels royal palace). It seemed a bit of a challenge, so stubbornly I crossed the street towards the monument and tried to direct my camera the way that it finally went well. No, I did not read the description at its foot. My company was getting impatient.

Royal Square, Brussels.

Who the man on the horse was surprised. I realized only back home while processing the photo. To be frank, at this location, I did not expect to see that one. Still, the knight turned out to be not only a hero of his time but also a person symbolic for many years of European history. Even if many hundred years after his undertakings we may look on them with more or less skepticism.

Godfrey of Bouillon, known informally as the King of Jerusalem or the Crusader King was one of the four leaders of the First Crusade from 1096 to 1099 that ended with possession of Jerusalem by Western knights army. Some people before tried to fight on their own hand for the Holy Land listening to the pope Urban II’s call. But the march led by Godfrey as well as three other crusaders’ armies was the first invasion well organized by the European knighthood. The attack had two important goals. The first one was to defend Constantinople against Turkish influence. Today Istanbul in Turkey, hundreds of years ago Constantinople was one of two major powers of the western civilization after the fall of the Roman Empire >>>. The other goal was to ‘protect’ the Holy Land, which meant in practice reinstating the Christian rule in Palestine.

To gather his huge army of forty thousand knights and infantry Godfrey sold or mortgaged most of his lands. Most of the time, during the marches and sieges of the First Crusade Godfrey, played a minor role, letting the more powerful to make the politics. Yet, at the final stage during the siege of Jerusalem in July 1099, he and his knights were the first to enter the city. As a key player, he was considered to become a new ruler in the Holy Land.

Finally chosen, he declined the title of the King of Jerusalem as inappropriate in the religious context. Still, informally, he is today referred to as such. His rule lasted several months marked by warfare, further conquests, and defeats. It is not sure whether he died of a battle wound, by poison or some other disease. He was succeeded by his younger brother Baldwin, who officially accepted the tile of the king in December 1100.

 

The Crusader King

Etterbeek by night

It is already two weeks since I returned home from another expert job in Brussels. It was not my first time as I visited Brussels in winter, but it was the first time as it was quite cold and it was raining for most of the week. Not the right conditions to enjoy taking photos at all.

Etterbeek is one of the Brussels municipalities. I choose this location for it allows me to reach on foot all EU buildings I usually need to visit. Etterbeek is located to the South from the Schumann plaza – the location of the main European Commission buildings. My assignment was this time on the opposite side of Etterbeek, more than a half-hour on foot from the Schumann.

Still, I decided to go out after work to take some photos. My plan was plain and simple – to take a walk from my apartment to the EU building, where I had my assignment and back. It usually takes me around fifteen minutes on foot. This time I needed around two hours there and back. It was late and cold, so there was not much traffic in the area and only a few people walking the streets. Perfect conditions to make a slow use of a tripod.

Unlike on my other stays in Brussels, this time I wanted to photograph the city as it is in a daily perspective, but not necessarily spots on a tourist must-see list. So here it is, Etterbeek as I see it on my way to work photographed at a late evening hour.

Etterbeek is one of the 19 municipalities that make up the region and mis situated to the southeast of the city center of Brussels. Etterbeek is known for its residential character, green spaces, and its proximity to various European institutions.

Etterbeek has a rich history that dates back to the medieval period. It was originally a rural village and later became a popular area for aristocrats and wealthy citizens to build their country houses. Over time, the village developed into a more urbanized area as the city of Brussels expanded. One of the notable landmarks in Etterbeek is the Cinquantenaire Park (Parc du Cinquantenaire), which is located in the eastern part of the municipality. The park features expansive green spaces, tree-lined paths, and a triumphal arch at its center called the Arcades du Cinquantenaire. This arch was built in the late 19th century to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Belgian independence.

Etterbeek is also home to several important institutions. The Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), a Dutch-speaking university, is located in the municipality. It is renowned for its academic programs and research activities. Furthermore, Etterbeek is known for hosting a significant number of European Union institutions. The European Commission, the executive branch of the European Union, has several buildings in the area. Additionally, the Council of the European Union and the European Council have their headquarters in the nearby European Quarter .

Etterbeek by night