Exploring the Historic Town of Morlaix in Brittany

A few years ago, we spent several days travelling through the French regions of Normandy and Brittany. Naturally, we visited the famous Mont St. Michel Abbey and the Allied landing site in Normandy at Arromanches. However, our main activity was travelling between towns and villages, admiring (and photographing) the local historical architecture, much of which dates back to the late Middle Ages. We weren’t fortunate with the weather, as it was either extremely hot or raining. Since I wasn’t the one planning the trip, at some point, I lost track of where we were. After several days of visiting up to three different places in a single day, it wasn’t difficult to get a bit confused. I only remembered the most distinctive buildings or locations, which later as I was reviewing photos made it fairly easy to piece together where we had been.

Today, I want to focus on the charming town of Morlaix in Brittany, located in the scenic river basin of the Dossen, which flows into the English Channel near the Celtic Sea. This historic town is not only known for its picturesque landscapes but also for its rich medieval history and unique architectural heritage. Morlaix was once a thriving centre for trade, particularly in linen, and its port remains active to this day.

I’ve mentioned Morlaix before on this blog when I wrote a short note about the famous railway viaduct that dominates the town’s skyline. This two-level railway viaduct, built in the 19th century, is an architectural marvel and offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding area.

Viaduct of Morlaix

The origins of Morlaix can be traced back to the Roman era, though it truly began to flourish in the Middle Ages. By the 11th century, it had become an important port and trading centre, benefiting from its coastal location and connection to the sea. During this time, Morlaix developed strong ties with England and other parts of Europe, trading goods such as linen, salt, and wine. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Morlaix was fortified to protect against frequent English raids as well as potential French incursions, reflecting Brittany’s broader efforts to maintain its independence during that era. In the early 16th century, Brittany came under the French crown through the marriage of Duchess Anne of Brittany to two successive French kings, Charles VIII and Louis XII. Despite this union, Morlaix was besieged and captured by the English in 1522, though it was later retaken by the French.

The 16th century saw Morlaix’s prosperity continue, particularly through its thriving linen trade. The town became famous for its production and export of toiles de Morlaix (Morlaix cloth). This period of economic growth led to the construction of many grand houses by wealthy merchants, some of which still stand today. During World War II, Morlaix suffered damage from Allied bombings aimed at disrupting German supply lines, but many of its historic buildings survived.

Today, Morlaix’s historic centre is well-preserved gem of medieval architecture, characterised by narrow, winding streets lined with half-timbered houses, some dating back to the 16th century. These traditional Breton houses, known as maisons à pondalez, are notable for their unique design, featuring internal wooden staircases and large fireplaces. One of the most famous examples is the House of the Duchess Anne, which serves as a museum today.

House of the Duchess Ann

The name of the house is more symbolic than direct, as Anne of Brittany is a celebrated historical figure in the region. She represents the last period of Breton independence before the duchy was absorbed into France. Naming significant buildings after her was a way to honour her legacy and her efforts to preserve Breton autonomy. As the last independent ruler of Brittany, she fought to maintain the duchy’s autonomy but was ultimately compelled to marry into the French crown, leading to the permanent union of Brittany with France.

Morlaix is not just a town with a rich past; it’s a destination that invites visitors to step back in time and explore the beauty of Brittany’s medieval heritage.

Exploring the Historic Town of Morlaix in Brittany

Rouen

Normandy is today best known to the world as a place where the allied forces landed onshore to begin one of the most significant military operations in world history that finally ended with the defeat of Nazi Germany.  The other association that comes forth quite quickly is the famous Mont St. Michel Abbey – one of the most frequently visited spots in Europe.

Yet, Normandy played quite a role in the history of Europe already at the beginning of the second Millennium. Like other coastal locations of the Western and Northern Europe, Normandy became a target of Viking raiders, who looted it many times. One of the Viking leaders known as Rollo made peace with a French king. In exchange for a right to settle down in Normandy, he promised to cease hostilities and accepted Christianity. With years, the Viking descendants melted with the local community giving birth to the so-called Norman culture.

A Norman king William, later known as William the Conqueror, claimed his rights to the English throne, which that time was in the hands of another branch of Viking descendants. After the successful military campaign, he was crowned as the king of England and introduced the Norman order in the English society.

For more than two hundred years, from XII to XV century,  the so-called Anglo-Norman dynasty ruled both England and Northern parts of France. The Anglo-Norman language was the official language that for good influenced English leaving it with many words of Nordic or German (Vikings) and French origin.

The very center of Normandy is Rouen, with its beautiful historic city dominated by a huge Gothic cathedral. In its right nave, you will find the grave of Rollo, the Viking who had chosen Normandy his home. The Cathedral of Rouen was many times partially destroyed by warfare, bombing, religious schisms, revolution, lighting, fire as well as construction mistakes. The list of damage is quite a long one. Yet each time it was rebuilt. Its contemporary look took hundred of years of works and many funds. Already if you look at its front, you will notice at the first site the architectural inconsistencies between its parts (compare, for example, the design of towers).

The cathedral of Rouen.

The historical city of Rouen, like many other historical cities in the region, had been carefully refurbished. Of interest are, of course, the half-timbered houses with timber frames painted in different colors. Half timbering was a construction technique used in medieval times in Western and Northern Europe. The main structure of a house was made of wooden poles. The space between them was filled with other materials, sometimes stone, but sometimes a mixture of cheaper ones. The upper floors of those houses were often bigger than the basement or chambers of a higher floor overhang over the first floor over the street. This way, the builders kept the streets wider but provided more housing space on the upper floors.

Half-timbered houses in the historical city of Rouen.

Yet, the city of Rouen witnessed another legendary event in its early years. If you get to the main square of the historical city in its midst, you will find a church. To be frank, it looks a bit as off place. But if you walk it around, you will find a small field of wildflowers and a small board beneath it explaining that it is where Jeanne d’Arc, a French hero, was burned at stake. At the church wall, a bit hidden, you will find a statue of Joanne d’Arc consumed by flames.

The main square of the historic city of Rouen. In its midst, a church, and behind it, the place where Joanne d’Arc was burned at stake.

Jeanne d’Arc (1412-1431) called the Maid of Orléans was a hero of the so-called 100 years war, a period when France struggled to recover from the English domination. The war started as the descendants of William the Conqueror (of the English-Norman dynasty) claimed through years the right to the French throne.

As a teenager, Jeanne d’Arc had a vision of saints, who told her to fight against the English and help the French Dauphin (heir to the French throne) to regain the rule over the French territory. Following her visions, she engaged in politics and military actions. Ultimately, she managed to attract the interest of the French Dauphin himself. Although she was wearing armor, according to historians, she never engaged in a fight. But on battlefields, she carried a banner. She was serving as a military advisor, as well.

For the fate of the campaign against the English changed with her appearance (including the ending of the siege of Orleans), she gained a symbolic status.

After she was captured by a group of French nobles allied with the English, she stood trial and was burned at stake on 30 May 1431. Ages later, she was declared a national symbol of France by the decision of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Rouen

Still on half-timbered houses in Northern France

Half-timbering technique was a popular method to build houses in medieval and early modern times in Northern Europe, including regions such as Denmark, England, Scotland, Germany (formerly including Prussia), parts of France, and Switzerland.

Houses were constructed by first installing timber frames as the primary structural element. The spaces between the timber (often referred to as posts or beams) were then filled with various materials such as wattle and daub, stones, or bricks, which provided insulation and stability. Half-timbered buildings were often ornamented with intricate carvings or brightly painted, adding to their aesthetic appeal.

In medieval towns, to maximize housing space along narrow streets, many houses featured overhanging upper floors extending beyond the ground floor. These overhangs are known as ‘jetties.’ Jettied houses were not only a space-saving solution but also a status symbol in some regions. The design helped protect the lower parts of the building from the elements and allowed for more space on the upper floors. It’s important to note that this technique also had practical implications in terms of taxation, as taxes were often based on the ground floor’s footprint.

The streets of historic towns in Northern France are a mixture of different architecture styles, reflecting their rich past and the impacts of various events, such as fires or war damage. In some cases, these towns have preserved their original architecture, while in others, buildings have been carefully rebuilt to mirror their historical appearance.

On pictures above you can see three main characteristics: grey sandstone bricks, slate roofs that sometimes cover also part of facades at upper floors and half-timbered walls with timber frames painted mostly in blue, red and green. Grey sandstone is locally sourced and very durable. Slate is a common roofing material in this region, known for its longevity and resistance to harsh weather. Interestingly, in some buildings, slate is also used to cover parts of the facades, especially on upper floors. The half-timbering technique, where the timber frames are left exposed and filled with other materials, is a prominent feature. In Northern France, these timber frames are often painted in vibrant colors like blue, red, and green, adding a lively contrast to the otherwise muted tones of the stone and slate.

Still on half-timbered houses in Northern France