Art Nouveau District in Riga. Where Architecture Turns into Sculpture

When I first visited Riga nearly two years ago, I was there on a business trip, staying at a hotel situated on the edge of the historic city. This location gave me the opportunity to step out with my camera both in the morning and after work in the afternoon. At that time, I could only explore the historic city, which had developed in the Hanseatic tradition. However, my colleagues told me that after a business dinner, a small group of them, along with a few locals, went out to see a district with “beautifully decorated buildings”. It was evening, and some of the buildings were illuminated, allowing them to see the decorations clearly. A year later, when I returned to Riga and had the chance to take a guided tour early in the morning, we went straight to that place.

The Art Nouveau district in Riga, located primarily in its central part, especially around Alberta Street and Elizabetes Street, is a captivating area renowned for its unique collection of early 20th-century architecture. It comprises dozens, perhaps even more, houses designed in a highly ornamental style, adorned with elaborate sculptures. These elements are not just additions but are seamlessly integrated into the buildings, enhancing both their functionality and aesthetic appeal. The facades are well-maintained, and you can see the detailed restoration work.

Art Nouveau emerged as a response to the classical style, particularly the Neoclassical style, which dominated academic art and architecture. Academic art refers to the artistic style and practices promoted and taught in European fine arts academies, especially from the 17th to the early 20th century. This style is characterized by a strong connection to classical traditions, a focus on the idealization of forms, technical mastery, and often a high level of formalism. In architecture, historical styles such as Neoclassicism and Neo-Gothic were predominant, and a restrained use of decoration based on ancient arts was closely linked to the principles and aesthetics taught in academies.

Art Nouveau broke away from these conventions, introducing greater freedom in forms and experimenting with new materials and techniques. The main goals of Art Nouveau were the revival of craftsmanship and the promotion of the idea that decorative arts, such as furniture design, glass, and ceramics, should be treated with the same respect as traditional fine arts like painting and sculpture. Art Nouveau aimed to create a new aesthetic that was both beautiful and functional, utilizing innovative forms and materials and integrating art into everyday life.

Below is a gallery of photos that I took in the Art Nouveau district in Riga.

Art Nouveau District in Riga. Where Architecture Turns into Sculpture

Revived. Elbląg

Poland is one of the countries that was most deeply affected by World War II. As a consequence, many historical cities were completely destroyed and required extensive reconstruction. One of such cities is Elbląg, located in the northeastern part of the country.

Founded in the 1230s under the Teutonic Knights, a German military order, Elbląg quickly became an essential hub for commerce and trade in medieval Europe. Its strategic location near the Vistula Lagoon served as a gateway for goods moving between the interior of Poland and the Baltic Sea. Trade in Elbląg was diverse, with commodities like amber, grain, and timber being among the most traded goods. The city’s membership in the Hanseatic League facilitated its trade relations with other significant ports of the Baltic Sea, such as Danzig (Gdańsk), Lübeck, and Riga.

In the mid-15th century, Elbląg, supporting the Prussian Confederation, rebelled against the Teutonic Order, leading to its integration into the Kingdom of Poland after the Thirteen Years’ War. After the partition of Poland in the late 18th century, Elbląg came under Prussian control. This marked the beginning of a new era in the city’s history, as it was integrated into the Kingdom of Prussia and later became part of the German Empire in 1871. During this period, the Elbląg Canal was constructed. Completed in the 19th century, it was built to facilitate the transportation of goods, especially timber from the Masurian Lakes to the port city of Elbląg. Previously, the port activity relied on a natural waterway connection with the Vistula Lagoon and the Baltic Sea. Elbląg remained under German rule until the end of World War II, when it was reassigned to Poland in accordance with the Potsdam Agreement in 1945.

During World War II, Elbląg suffered significant destruction and damage. The city was occupied by Nazi Germany after the invasion of Poland in 1939 and remained under German control until it was liberated by the Soviet Red Army in 1945. As the war reached its final stages, Elbląg became a battleground between the retreating German forces and the advancing Soviet Red Army. In anticipation of the Soviet advance, the retreating German forces engaged in a scorched-earth policy, destroying buildings, bridges, and other infrastructure to impede the Soviet advance. Many historic buildings, including those in the historical town, suffered severe damage or were completely destroyed.

Elbląg before war

Elbląg post war

After the war, Elbląg faced the daunting task of reconstruction. Efforts were made to rebuild and restore the city’s infrastructure and historical buildings, including the historical town. However, due to the extent of the damage, some structures had to be rebuilt or restored in a modified form. Local authorities and preservation organizations have been working to maintain the city’s historical character while adapting to modern needs and requirements. Walking around this city, you get the impression that you’re in a typical Hanseatic town. Just that the buildings in the historical town, though stylised, exude modernity.

The city cathedral also had to be rebuilt from scratch. Before World War II, the Elbląg Cathedral, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was a significant landmark in Elbląg, embodying the city’s medieval heritage and its prominence within the Hanseatic League. Constructed in the 13th century during the city’s period of economic prosperity, the cathedral was designed in the Brick Gothic style, characteristic of northern Germany and the Baltic Sea region. The reconstruction of the Cathedral after World War II adopted a simpler approach compared to its original elaborate Gothic design. In the post-war period, resources were often limited, and the focus was on functional restoration rather than replicating historical intricacies. As a result, the reconstructed cathedral, while retaining the Gothic architectural style and preserving its historical essence, features a more simplified interior and exterior compared to the pre-war period.

After the Second World War, port activity in Elbląg ceased. However, a few years ago, the Polish government built a direct waterway from the Vistula Lagoon to the Baltic Sea, with the intention of reviving port activity in Elbląg after deepening the Elbląg Canal section leading from the lagoon to Elbląg, which is likely to take place in the near future.

Revived. Elbląg

The Old Port in Gdansk

Already I have posted many photos on this beautiful spot, but actually never recalling its history. In fact, this place is one of my favorites to spend leisure time in Poland, just to walk around, enjoy good food and make many beautiful photos. It is indeed very photogenic, no matter the season or time of the day. But the Old Port in Gdansk, known as the Main City, is also about its history. It has been an important center of maritime trade and commerce since the Middle Ages.

The earliest written records of the port date back to the Xth century, when it was known as Gedanum. At that time, it was a small fishing village located at the mouth of the Motława River, which flows into the Baltic Sea. At that time, Gdansk was incorporated into the Piast-ruled Polish state, as part of the Pomeranian region. Under Piast rule till XIVth century, Gdansk was granted a series of charters and privileges that helped to promote its growth and development. These included the right to self-government, the establishment of a merchant guild, and the ability to levy taxes and duties on goods passing through the port.

One of the most significant periods in Gdańsk history was its time under the rule of the Teutonic Knights, who took control of the city in the XIVth century. The Teutonic Knights were a Germanic religious order, who played a major role in the Christianization and colonization of Eastern Europe. The Knights constructed numerous fortifications, and they established a network of warehouses, docks, and markets to support the city’s growing trade. The relationship between Gdańsk and the Teutonic Order was often contentious, with the city asserting its independence and autonomy.

In the same time, around the year 1361 Gdansk joined the Hanseatic League. The Hanseatic League was a commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guilds and market towns in Northern Europe. The league was formed in the late XIIth and early XIIIth centuries. Its member cities, known as Hanseatic cities were located along the coast of the Baltic Sea and North Sea (port cities) and also in the hinterland (merchant cities). The Hanseatic League was established to protect the interests of its member cities and promote trade and commerce between them. The League’s center of power was the German city of Lübeck, which served as the Hansa headquarters and hosted the meetings of the Hanseatic Diet, the League’s central governing body.

During the Hanseatic era, the port of Gdańsk was a major center of trade and commerce in Northern Europe. The most important commodity traded in Gdańsk was grain, which was exported from Poland and other parts of the region to markets throughout Europe. Other important goods included timber, which was harvested from the vast forests of Poland and transported down the Vistula River to the port of Gdańsk, where it was processed and shipped to markets throughout Europe. Another important commodity was salt, which was produced in mines in southern Poland. The city also traded in other goods such as furs, honey, wax, fish, and amber, which was mined from the Baltic Sea.

Goods were transported to the port of Gdansk via land and waterways, including the Vistula River, which was an important transport artery in Poland. In the Middle Ages, transport on the Vistula River was primarily done by boat, either by sail or by oar. The boats were often flat-bottomed and shallow-drafted, in order to navigate the relatively shallow waters of the river. The Vistula River was also navigable by rafts and barges. These were large, also flat-bottomed vessels that were used to transport bulk goods such as timber or grain. They were typically towed by horses or oxen, which would walk along the river bank and pull the vessel along the waterway.

As other merchant cities, Gdansk has a tradition of merchant guilds. One of the earliest merchant guilds in Gdańsk was the Brotherhood of St. George, which was established in the XIVth century. This guild was primarily made up of German merchants, and it played an important role in the city’s trade with other Hanseatic cities and beyond. Other important guilds in Gdańsk included the Brotherhood of St. Mary, which was founded in the early 15th century and was composed mainly of local merchants and craftsmen, and the Guild of Newcomers, which was established in the late 16th century and was open to merchants who were not originally from Gdańsk. Membership in these guilds was highly sought after, as it conferred a number of benefits and privileges, including access to the city’s markets, the ability to participate in the governance of the city, and protection from competition and other economic threats.

In the early XVth century, Gdańsk and other cities in the region rose up against the Teutonic Order in a series of wars known as the Thirteen Years’ War. The conflict ended in 1466 with the Second Peace of Thorn, which saw Gdansk and other territories come under the control of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The treaty also had wider implications for the balance of power, as it shifted the center of gravity in the Baltic region from the Teutonic Order to Poland and Lithuania.

Gradually, also Hanseatic league lost its significance. Nation-states began to emerge and expand their power and influence. European nations became more centralized and began to establish their own trade networks and overseas colonies. Additionally, the increasing competition and conflict between European nations often made it difficult for the league’s member cities to maintain the cooperative relationships that had been the foundation of their success. The league was also affected by internal divisions and conflicts among its member cities. As the league expanded and grew more complex, disagreements over trade policy and other issues sometimes led to rifts and tensions between different member cities, which made it more difficult for the league to function effectively. Gdansk left the Hanseatic League in 1603, although it continued to maintain close economic ties with other Hanseatic cities such as Lübeck, Hamburg, and Bremen. The formal dissolution of the Hanseatic League is generally considered to have taken place in the mid-XVIIth century, when the league’s last trading post in England was closed.

Under Polish-Lithuanian rule, Gdańsk retained a degree of autonomy and self-government, but was also subject to Polish royal authority. However, deep-seated tensions and rivalries existed between the city and the Polish state. During the so-called Gdańsk Rebellion of 1576-1577 the city’s burghers rebelled against Polish royal authority and attempted to establish their own independent republic. The rebellion was ultimately suppressed.

The city’s German and Polish populations coexisted and interacted in complex and often uneasy ways, with tensions often arising over issues such as trade policy, language, and religion. During the 16th and 17th centuries, Gdańsk also played an important role in the Protestant Reformation, with many of the city’s residents adopting Lutheran beliefs and practices. The city’s Catholic population, which included Polish and other non-German speakers, often found themselves marginalized and excluded from positions of power and influence within the city’s government and institutions. Tensions between Protestants and Catholics in Gdansk occasionally boiled over into violence and conflict, with one notable example being the Bloody Christmas of 1577, when a dispute between Catholic and Protestant students at the city’s academic gymnasium led to a violent clash in the streets.

In the XVIIth century, the port of Gdansk was one of the busiest and most important ports in Europe. Gdansk provided a vital gateway to the rich markets of the Baltic region, and was a major hub for trade in goods such as grain, timber, furs, and amber. The city’s port facilities underwent significant expansion and modernization, with new wharves, warehouses, and storage facilities constructed to handle the growing volume of trade. The construction of the Vistula bar, a massive artificial sandbar built at the mouth of the river, also helped to improve navigation and protect the port from storms and flooding. Gdańsk economic and commercial importance during this period was reflected in its political and diplomatic status. The city was granted the title of Royal Prussian City by the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and enjoyed a degree of autonomy and self-government under the king’s protection. However, Gdańsk’s position as a major commercial center also made it vulnerable to political and economic pressures from neighboring powers. The city was frequently caught in the middle of conflicts between Poland-Lithuania, Sweden, and other powers, and its status as a free city and commercial hub was often threatened by shifting political alliances and economic rivalries.

During the early part of XVIII century, Gdansk’s economic importance was somewhat diminished by the rise of other ports in the region, such as St. Petersburg and Riga. The partitions of Poland-Lithuania, threw Gdańsk into the newly-formed Province of West Prussia, and later in the XIXth century it became part of the German Empire. The partitions of Poland were a series of three partitions in the late 18th century, where the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth was divided and annexed by neighboring powers, including Russia, Prussia, and Austria. These partitions ultimately led to the collapse of the Commonwealth and Poland’s disappearance from the map of Europe for over a century.

One notable development in the XVIIIth century was the growth of the city’s shipbuilding industry. Gdansk had a long tradition of shipbuilding, dating back to the Middle Ages, but that time the industry underwent a period of significant expansion and modernization. Shipyards such as those operated by the Dutch-born shipbuilder Anthony van Hoboken became important employers in the city, and helped to establish Gdańsk as a major center of shipbuilding in Northern Europe.

During the first half of the XIXth century, Gdansk economy still was dominated by the grain trade, with the city serving as a major center for the export of Polish and Lithuanian wheat and rye to Western Europe. However, the construction of new rail links and the opening of other ports in the region gradually eroded Gdansk dominance. The Old Port had been an important center of maritime trade and commerce for centuries, but on the edge of XiXth and XXth century, its narrow and winding waterways were no longer suitable for modern shipping. Instead, new port facilities were built in the northern part of the city, including the Westerplatte and Oliwa docks, which had deeper water and more space to handle larger ships. These new facilities allowed the port of Gdańsk to continue to grow and develop, and to remain an important center of trade and commerce in the region. The Old Port in Gdansk was closed to maritime trade in the early XXth century.

A walk through Gdańsk’s old port is a journey through time – from medieval granaries and port cranes to today’s lively riverside promenade. It’s a place where the city’s history lives on in its architecture, street layout and atmosphere. Although the port’s commercial activity has long since moved north, this former trading district has lost none of its charm. Today, it attracts visitors with its character, stories and views that bridge the past and the present. Here, Gdańsk reveals its layered identity – Hanseatic, Polish, European – open to the sea and to the world.

The Old Port in Gdansk