Italian Dinner at Its Finest

During our trip to Italy last year, my brother, his baby daughter, and I visited the stunning town of Matera. It was already November, and while the air had a bit of a chill, the weather was still wonderfully bright. At that time of year, despite Matera being a top tourist destination, the crowds had thinned out, leaving us to enjoy the town at a leisurely pace. We were able to sit on the terrace of a small restaurant, without needing a reservation, and take in the breathtaking view of the upper part of old Matera.

For the little one, we ordered a simple dish of gnocchi in a rich tomato sauce, but with such a beautiful view ahead of us and plenty of time on our hands, we decided to indulge in the full Italian dining experience that the restaurant offered. It was the perfect setting to enjoy a leisurely, traditional Italian meal, savouring each course at our own pace.

For most people, Italian cuisine is synonymous with pizza, various types of pasta, and of course, fresh olive oil as a staple accompaniment. However, a true Italian meal, especially in a more refined setting, is a much more elaborate experience, traditionally served in several courses. Our meal followed a classic Italian structure, beginning with antipasti, followed by two main courses, and finishing with dessert. What is important, we enjoyed this meal as a late lunch, but in Italy, this type of multi-course meal is typically served as an evening dinner.

So, what does a traditional Italian meal look like, and what was on our plates?

At the start of the meal, it’s common for freshly baked bread to be served, often accompanied by a bowl of extra virgin olive oil for dipping. Throughout the meal, wine plays a central role. In many restaurants, you can choose between bottled wines, often from renowned regional vineyards, or opt for the local vino della casa (house wine), which is usually served in carafes. House wines, whether red or white, are often simpler but still of good quality. Sparkling or still water is also commonly served.

Antipasto (Starter). The meal often begins with antipasti, which are small, flavourful appetisers meant to stimulate the appetite. These may include bruschetta, cured meats like prosciutto, a variety of cheeses, marinated olives, grilled vegetables, or carpaccio – thinly sliced raw meat (typically beef) or sometimes fish, dressed with olive oil and lemon. The antipasto serves as an introduction to the meal and sets the tone for what is to come.

Primo piatto (First Course), This course is typically based on carbohydrates and may include pasta, risotto, gnocchi, or sometimes soup. Pasta is a staple of Italian cuisine, made from wheat and water (or eggs in some varieties), and comes in countless shapes and sizes, from the well-known spaghetti to more regional variations. Risotto is a creamy dish made from short-grain rice, which is cooked slowly by adding broth little by little, resulting in a rich texture. Gnocchi, on the other hand, are soft dumplings made from potatoes, flour, and sometimes eggs, offering a slightly different texture from pasta but often served with similar sauces. The primo is hearty and filling, but it’s just the beginning of the main part of the meal.

Secondo piatto (Main Course). The secondo is the main course, usually focused on meat or fish. Unlike the primo, it is typically served without starchy additions, like pasta or rice. Common choices include roasted meats, grilled fish, or stews. If you’re dining in Italy, be prepared for the possibility of receiving just the meat with its sauce, like guanciale di manzo (beef cheeks), which are often served in a rich, slow-cooked sauce or meat accompanied by vegetables like in pollo a la Romana (Roman style chicken), where peppers, tomatoes, and onions are slow-cooked with the chicken, creating a rich, flavourful sauce that accompanies the dish. Don’t expect pasta or potatoes on the side, as you’ve likely already had your primo piatto earlier. The secondo is meant to stand on its own, with the focus squarely on the protein and its accompanying sauce.

Contorno (Side Dishes). Side dishes, or contorni, often accompany the secondo. These are usually simple vegetable preparations, such as roasted potatoes, grilled zucchini, or a fresh salad. While not always necessary, contorni add balance to the meal and offer a lighter contrast to the richness of the main course. Contorni in Italy can (though not always) be served in quite generous portions. So before ordering additional vegetables in a restaurant, it’s wise to ask the waiter about the portion size, as you might find yourself with more on a plate than you can comfortably eat on your own.

No Italian meal is complete without a dolce, or dessert. This could be a classic like tiramisu, a silky panna cotta, or light, refreshing fruits, depending on the region and the occasion. Italian desserts are often rich in flavour but not too heavy, providing the perfect sweet finish to a meal. In one of the traditional Italian homes where I was a guest, dessert was a delightful mix of sweets, balanced with fresh fruits and nuts. After the dolce, Italians typically enjoy an espresso (caffè), a strong, concentrated coffee served in a small cup. Coffee is usually the last item served, although some may choose a digestivo such as grappa, limoncello, or amaro to help with digestion.

I traditionally ended the meal with a coffee, though not an espresso. Keeping in mind that Italians usually find it odd when someone orders a milk-based coffee, like cappuccino or caffè latte, with lunch or dinner, I chose an americano instead – a more diluted option, as espresso is a bit too strong for my taste. Interestingly, the name americano is tied to the fact that American soldiers during World War II would dilute their espresso with hot water to make it more like the coffee they were used to back home.

Italian Dinner at Its Finest

The Legacy of Cosmas and Damian in Alberobello

During our visit to Alberobello, in the Puglia region of Italy, our main goal was to see the well-known district of trulli houses. Before heading there, we took some time to walk around the newer part of town and have a relaxed lunch. While exploring the streets, we came across the main church and decided to step inside. The church, though modest by Italian standards, contained statues of Saints Cosmas and Damian, which quietly drew our attention.

The church plays an important role in the religious life of Alberobello’s residents. Built in the 19th century, during a period of growth for the town, it was dedicated to Saints Cosmas and Damian, who are especially revered in this part of Puglia as patrons of health and medicine. In recognition of their local significance, the decision was made to build a church that could accommodate a larger congregation.

Each year, on 27 September, the town holds celebrations in honour of the saints, drawing both residents and visitors. The festivities typically last several days, from 25 to 28 September, and include religious services, a procession through the trulli-lined streets, and cultural events such as concerts and fireworks. During the main procession, the saints’ statues and relics are carried through the town by parishioners in traditional dress, accompanied by music and banners.

The tradition of honouring patron saints, deeply rooted in Christian history, continues to thrive in modern Europe. Originally centred on saints believed to offer protection and guidance to certain groups, professions or places, the practice has evolved, yet remains a meaningful part of communal life. Today, patron saints are still celebrated through festivals, public holidays, and ceremonies, not only in religious settings but also in secular life – influencing city patronage, schools, and even sports teams. In southern Italy, such traditions often serve as a bridge between faith and regional identity, helping to preserve local customs and foster a sense of belonging. Alberobello’s devotion to Saints Cosmas and Damian is one such example, rooted in a long-standing belief in the saints’ protective powers, particularly in times of illness or crisis.

Saints Cosmas and Damian, also known simply as Cosmas and Damian, were twin brothers and Christian martyrs from the late 3rd century. Highly venerated in both the Eastern Orthodox and Roman Catholic traditions, they were born in Arabia and practised medicine in the Roman province of Syria, likely in the city of Aegeae (modern-day Ayas, Turkey). As physicians, they were known for their skill and their refusal to accept payment, earning them the title of unmercenaries — those who offer healing freely. Their medical work was closely tied to their Christian faith, which they often shared with their patients.

Cosmas and Damian offer a meaningful way to introduce the contrasting ideas of mercenaries and unmercenaries. In the Christian tradition, mercenaries are typically seen as those who act from self-interest – offering their services, particularly in warfare, for material gain. In contrast, unmercenaries represent a different ethic – one of selfless service, charity, and devotion. Cosmas and Damian devoted their lives to healing without financial reward, guided instead by compassion, faith, and a strong sense of spiritual duty. This made them not only remarkable physicians but also enduring moral figures whose legacy extended well beyond medicine. While mercenaries operate on transactional value, unmercenaries embody a vision of care grounded in love and justice. Their story invites reflection on how acts of healing – and care more broadly – can rise above economic interests to become sacred gestures of human solidarity.

During the reign of Roman Emperor Diocletian, known for his severe persecution of Christians, Cosmas and Damian were arrested for their faith. Despite enduring torture, they remained steadfast and were ultimately beheaded. Their unwavering belief, along with the miraculous healings attributed to them, led to their canonisation. They are said to have survived multiple execution attempts before their final death – with legends describing them being thrown into the sea, burned alive, or crucified, only to escape each time through miraculous means. Their cult spread rapidly across the Roman Empire, and churches dedicated to them began appearing as early as the 5th century. One of the most notable is the Basilica of Santi Cosma e Damiano in the Roman Forum, established by Pope Felix IV, which remains an important site of devotion.

Today, Cosmas and Damian are recognised as the patron saints of physicians, surgeons, and pharmacists, and are often invoked for protection against illness, particularly during times of plague. Their feast day is celebrated on 26 September in the Eastern Orthodox Church, and on 27 September in the Roman Catholic Church. Their legacy lives on in the many churches, hospitals, and medical institutions named in their honour. Their popularity remains strong in southern Italy, Brazil (notably in Salvador and Rio de Janeiro), and parts of the Middle East. In Brazil, the feast is marked by the distribution of sweets to children, symbolising the saints’ kindness and generosity. In Italy, many towns – especially in Puglia, Campania, and Calabria – have chosen Cosmas and Damian as their patron saints, reflecting their enduring significance across cultures and centuries.

Below other photos from the Cosmas and Damian church in Alberobello.

The Legacy of Cosmas and Damian in Alberobello

Exploring the Trulli in Alberobello

Last autumn, we took a family trip to southern Italy. Although we planned to meet up there, I chose a different route from the rest of the family and couldn’t resist spending a few days in Rome. We agreed that once I arrived in Bari, I would hire a car, and each day we would set off to explore a new destination. With autumn in full swing, the usual crowds were gone. The weather was mild, but chill. Perefect conditions for sightseeing.

One of the towns we visited was Alberobello. We wandered through the town centre, visited the local ctahedral, but our main focus was exploring the trulli district, known for its unique houses. Since we had a spirited two-year-old with us, we were fortunate to find parking right in the town centre, close to the entrance of the trulli area, where parking spaces were reserved for families with young children.

Alberobello is a charming town located in the Apulia region of southern Italy. The town is about 55 kilometres southeast of Bari, the regional capital. The town is surrounded by a landscape of vineyards and orchards, offering a quintessentially Mediterranean setting. As we approached Alberobello, just a few kilometres away, we began to spot the first trulli.

We later discovered that many of these unique homes are still inhabited. However, on the hill where the largest concentration of trulli is found, many appeared unoccupied. These were well-maintained, but due to their challenging access – both by car and on foot – it’s likely they are mainly kept for the tourist season. Outside of this period, the owners probably stay elsewhere, and there aren’t many tourists eager to spend the night. We had the chance to explore a few of the trulli from the inside, as some have been converted into small shops and restaurants. The interiors are incredibly cosy and quite modernly equipped.

The origins of the trulli in ALberobello date back to the 14th century, during a time when the Kingdom of Naples ruled the region. Local landlords wanted to avoid paying taxes on permanent dwellings, which were imposed by the Spanish rulers at the time. To circumvent these taxes, they encouraged the construction of temporary, easily dismantled homes. The result was the trullo, a structure built entirely without mortar, using only local limestone.

The technique of dry-stone construction allowed for easy disassembly if the need arose, but it also proved remarkably durable. The thick stone walls provided excellent insulation against both the summer heat and winter cold, making the trulli comfortable year-round. The conical roofs were constructed by laying limestone slabs in a circular pattern, creating a self-supporting structure that required no internal framework.

The unique architectural style of the trulli also had a symbolic aspect. Many of the conical roofs are topped with pinnacles, which could be religious or mystical symbols, possibly linked to local superstitions or beliefs. Additionally, some trulli have painted symbols on their roofs, thought to ward off evil or bring good fortune.

Over time, what started as a practical solution to a tax problem evolved into a beloved and distinctive architectural style. While some trulli in Alberobello fell into disrepair, others were maintained, restored, and even modernized. Today, as we could have seen it, many trulli have been transformed into homes, guesthouses, shops, and restaurants.

Exploring the Trulli in Alberobello