Exploring the Trulli in Alberobello

Last autumn, we took a family trip to southern Italy. Although we planned to meet up there, I chose a different route from the rest of the family and couldn’t resist spending a few days in Rome. We agreed that once I arrived in Bari, I would hire a car, and each day we would set off to explore a new destination. With autumn in full swing, the usual crowds were gone. The weather was mild, but chill. Perefect conditions for sightseeing.

One of the towns we visited was Alberobello. We wandered through the town centre, visited the local ctahedral, but our main focus was exploring the trulli district, known for its unique houses. Since we had a spirited two-year-old with us, we were fortunate to find parking right in the town centre, close to the entrance of the trulli area, where parking spaces were reserved for families with young children.

Alberobello is a charming town located in the Apulia region of southern Italy. The town is about 55 kilometres southeast of Bari, the regional capital. The town is surrounded by a landscape of vineyards and orchards, offering a quintessentially Mediterranean setting. As we approached Alberobello, just a few kilometres away, we began to spot the first trulli.

We later discovered that many of these unique homes are still inhabited. However, on the hill where the largest concentration of trulli is found, many appeared unoccupied. These were well-maintained, but due to their challenging access – both by car and on foot – it’s likely they are mainly kept for the tourist season. Outside of this period, the owners probably stay elsewhere, and there aren’t many tourists eager to spend the night. We had the chance to explore a few of the trulli from the inside, as some have been converted into small shops and restaurants. The interiors are incredibly cosy and quite modernly equipped.

The origins of the trulli in ALberobello date back to the 14th century, during a time when the Kingdom of Naples ruled the region. Local landlords wanted to avoid paying taxes on permanent dwellings, which were imposed by the Spanish rulers at the time. To circumvent these taxes, they encouraged the construction of temporary, easily dismantled homes. The result was the trullo, a structure built entirely without mortar, using only local limestone.

The technique of dry-stone construction allowed for easy disassembly if the need arose, but it also proved remarkably durable. The thick stone walls provided excellent insulation against both the summer heat and winter cold, making the trulli comfortable year-round. The conical roofs were constructed by laying limestone slabs in a circular pattern, creating a self-supporting structure that required no internal framework.

The unique architectural style of the trulli also had a symbolic aspect. Many of the conical roofs are topped with pinnacles, which could be religious or mystical symbols, possibly linked to local superstitions or beliefs. Additionally, some trulli have painted symbols on their roofs, thought to ward off evil or bring good fortune.

Over time, what started as a practical solution to a tax problem evolved into a beloved and distinctive architectural style. While some trulli in Alberobello fell into disrepair, others were maintained, restored, and even modernized. Today, as we could have seen it, many trulli have been transformed into homes, guesthouses, shops, and restaurants.

Exploring the Trulli in Alberobello

Bona Sforza

Bari is a city that is heard of in Poland from early childhood history lessons. In this city, one of the most influential queens in Polish history, Bona Sforza, was living before and after her stay in Poland. She became the Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania through her marriage to Sigismund I of Poland. It was only while staying with an Italian family near Bari that I learned that Bona Sforza was a significant figure in Bari, as well. Furthermore, that her modest sarcophagus is placed on the altar in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Born 1494, in Milan, Italy, she was the daughter of Gian Galeazzo Sforza, Duke of Milan, and Isabella of Naples. Bona’s family, the Sforzas, were one of the leading families in Italy. Her childhood was affected by the political turmoil involving her family. The Sforza family’s power in Milan was contested. Her father died under mysterious circumstances when Bona was just a child. Soon after her father’s death, Duchess Isabella moved with her daughters to Bari. Bona’s Renaissance education covered languages, arts, and an introduction to politics, equipping her with linguistic proficiency and a foundational understanding of governance.

Isabella sought to arrange a favorable marriage for Bona to regain political influence and her former possessions. Despite initial unsuccessful attempts due to Isabella’s unfavorable political position, with the support of the Habsburgs, she eventually succeeded in arranging Bona’s marriage to the widowed Polish King Sigismund I.

In 1518, Bona Sforza married King Sigismund I of Poland, becoming Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania.

Her role as the Queen of Poland was marked by significant administrative reforms, among which the establishment of a permanent tax system was a major achievement. Although it must be said that she imposed and enforced these taxes with a firm hand. Prior to her influence, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth relied on irregular and often arbitrary taxation methods that were not only inefficient but also prone to exacerbating tensions between the monarchy and the nobility. By introducing a more systematic and regularized tax system, she brought about greater fiscal stability and predictability, which was essential for the effective governance and financial planning of the state. In addition to these fiscal reforms, Bona Sforza made concerted efforts to reduce the influence of the nobility by curbing their traditional privileges and powers, thereby centralizing authority under the monarchy.

Beyond her domestic reforms, Bona Sforza was deeply engaged in the foreign affairs of the Polish-Lithuanian realm. She openly opposed the growing influence of the Habsburgs in Central Europe and sought to counterbalance it through alliances with France and the Ottoman Empire. Her foreign policy was closely tied to her dynastic interests, as she worked to secure titles, lands and advantageous marriages for her children. Although some of her efforts were ultimately frustrated, she remained a shrewd political operator, whose ambitions extended well beyond the borders of her adopted country.

Bona Sforza played a notable role in the development of Renaissance culture in Poland. Hailing from Italy, she brought with her the refined tastes of the Italian courts and introduced them to the Polish royal household. She actively patronised artists, architects and craftsmen, many of whom she brought from her native land, leaving a lasting mark on the visual and architectural landscape of the kingdom. Under her influence, Wawel Castle was transformed with elegant arcaded courtyards in the Italian style. Beyond architecture, she encouraged literary and educational pursuits, helping to shape a more sophisticated and cosmopolitan court culture.

She also had a considerable impact on Polish agriculture and cuisine. She introduced important agricultural reforms, including new crops and farming techniques. While the idea that she single-handedly brought vegetables to Poland is somewhat exaggerated, she did play a significant role in promoting their wider use at the royal court and among the nobility. As a noblewoman from Italy – where Renaissance culinary culture was particularly rich and diverse – she brought with her knowledge of produce that was not commonly used in Poland at the time. Her influence contributed to a gradual shift in dietary habits, particularly among the upper classes.

Bona Sforza, towards the end of King Sigismund I’s reign and after his death in 1548, faced increasing animosity from the Polish nobility due to her strong political influence and centralizing reforms. Her relationship with her son, Sigismund II Augustus, became fraught with tension, as well. After he ascended to the throne, their differing views on state affairs exacerbated the strain in their relationship. A major source of conflict was also her son’s marriage to Barbara Radziwiłł from one of the most influential Polish-Lithuanian noble families. Bona viewed it as politically damaging and personally threatening, as it would strengthen his wife’s family influence at court while diminishing her own.

Consequently, for long eight years she moved with her daughters to Brodnica in Mazovia Poland. Finally she made the decision to leave Poland and return to Italy to Bari, marking the end of her direct involvement in Polish politics. Bona’s life came to an abrupt and mysterious end in 1557.

And here yet another fact from her life comes to light. Following her marriage to Sigismund I the Old in 1518, Bona was formally granted hereditary fiefs in southern Italy by Emperor Charles V of the Habsburg dynasty. These included the Duchy of Bari, the Principality of Rossano, as well as Modugno and Bitonto. These were highly lucrative estates situated in the Kingdom of Naples. Bona derived substantial income from them. She maintained financial independence and even loaned money to the Polish royal treasury. She was one of the wealthiest individuals in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and she handled her finances with remarkable diligence and care. For decades, even while residing in Poland, she administered her southern Italian fiefs through a network of trusted agents and correspondence. From the royal court in Kraków, she managed financial affairs, collected revenues, and oversaw local governance in the Duchy of Bari. This transregional management made her one of the most financially independent monarchs in Europe at the time.

When she eventually returned to Bari in 1556, she resumed direct rule and implemented a series of administrative and economic reforms. She strengthened tax collection, invested in urban infrastructure, and reasserted political control over her domains. Her presence in Bari reestablished the court as a center of local authority and Renaissance patronage — yet also drew the attention and hostility of the Spanish crown, particularly Philip II (son of Charles V), under whose rule the Kingdom of Naples now fell.

Bona died under suspicious circumstances. One of the historical hypotheses that has not been conclusively confirmed is the theory that she was poisoned by her secretary, Gian Lorenzo Pappacoda, who allegedly acted under orders from the Spanish crown. A forged will emerged, one that transferred her Italian holdings not to her son, as she had intended, but instead to Philip II. Poland’s diplomatic protests and claims were entirely ignored by the Spanish authorities.

She was buried in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Bona Sforza

From Borghese collection: Psyche is welcomed in Olympus

Psyche is welcomed in Olympus for the wedding with Love, Sala di Psiche. Seen in Galleria Borghese, Rome. The frescos on the ceiling by Pietro Antonio Novelli, depicts significant moments from the tale of Cupid and Psyche. Novelli (1729–1804) was an Italian painter, illustrator, and engraver of the 18th century. Born in Venice, he was a prolific artist known for his versatility in different artistic genres, including religious and historical scenes, portraits, and frescoes.

The central fresco shows Psyche being welcomed to Olympus for her marriage to Cupid. Psyche, a mortal woman of extraordinary beauty, arouses the jealousy of Venus, the goddess of love. Venus sends her son Cupid to make Psyche fall in love with a monster as a punishment for her beauty. However, Cupid himself falls in love with Psyche but forbids Psyche to look at him. Cupid’s demand for Psyche not to see him is a way to ensure that her love is true and not based on his physical or divine appearance. Psyche disobeys and lights a lamp to see Cupid’s face as he sleeps. Cupid flees, feeling betrayed. Psyche, heartbroken, undertakes a journey to win back Cupid’s love. She has to complete a series of impossible tasks set by Venus. Her perseverance and dedication eventually lead to her being granted immortality by Jupiter, the king of the gods, and she is finally reunited with Cupid. Their marriage symbolizes the union of the love and sould (Cupid and Psyche).

From Borghese collection: Psyche is welcomed in Olympus