Kenroku-en is an authentic Japanese garden established already in the XVIIth century in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, by the Maeda family. The garden’s construction began in 1620 and continued over several generations. The Maeda family were powerful feudal lords during the Edo period (1603–1868). Kenroku-en was not only designed for aesthetic pleasure but also served as a symbol of the power and wealth of the Maeda clan. The garden underwent expansions and improvements by subsequent generations of the Maeda family, contributing to its current form. The garden covers an area of approximately 11.4 hectares (28 acres).

Kenroku-en is one of the three oldest gardens in Japan. It is considered one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan, alongside Kairaku-en in Mito and Koraku-en in Okayama. Its name translated into English means the Six Attributes Garden. Those six attributes of a perfect landscape are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, waterways, and panoramas. All of them are true for this place.

Spaciousness (“kōki”) – the garden is designed to provide a sense of openness and spaciousness, allowing visitors to appreciate the beauty of the surroundings. Seclusion (“kyōri”) – the gardenn offers various secluded areas where visitors can enjoy moments of tranquility and escape from the outside world. Artifice (“fukurō”) – the garden incorporates elements of human artistry, including carefully placed stones, bridges, paths, and other man-made features that enhance the natural landscape. Antiquity (“shitsurei”) – the garden has a long history, dating back to the 17th century, and its design reflects traditional Japanese gardening principles. Waterways (“setsuryū”) – the garden features ponds, streams, and other water elements that contribute to its aesthetic appeal and create a harmonious atmosphere. Panoramas (“kanshō”) – the garden provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, allowing visitors to appreciate the changing scenery from different vantage points.

We arrived in Kenroku-en on a hot and sunny Saturday morning exactly at the opening hour. We wanted to take some photos in the morning light, still before the garden crowds up. Indeed, around noon, it filled in with visitors, who, in the vast majority, were Japanese.

Only after five or ten minutes of walk we saw a pond (lake) surrounded by greenery mirrored in the calm water. The tranquility of the scene was undisturbed, and it felt as if time itself had slowed down in this picturesque setting.

My only notion of a Japanese style of a garden was that it is full of trees not allowed to grow high and cut bonsai like. Later on, during our stay in Japan, we visited at least three other bigger gardens and also saw some small gardens surrounding tiny Japanese houses. Those small gardens were indeed full of bonsai cut trees but rather cut just to fit into a small space. The Kenroku-en is on the other hand big and spacious. Trees are cut, but it is more to give them a shape and remove dry branches. For sure, it is not to keep them small. Old pines are supported by huge wooden poles. A technique we already saw in Japan many times. Many other trees in Kenroku-en seemed to be left to grow naturally.

Indeed prunning trees in Japanese gardens is to give them form and balance. Trees in Japanese gardens are meticulously pruned to achieve a natural yet stylized form. The pruning aims to highlight the inherent beauty of the tree while ensuring it complements the overall design of the garden. There are also specific styles of prunning trees. Cloud Pruning (“niwa zukuri”) is a pruning style where the foliage of a tree or shrub is shaped into rounded, cloud-like forms. It is often used for evergreen trees like pines and azaleas. Cloud pruning adds a sculptural and artistic element to the garden. Garden Woods (“niwa mori”) is on the other hand a selective pruning to maintain a natural appearance while allowing filtered sunlight to create dappled patterns on the ground.

Pruning may be influenced by the changing seasons to showcase different aspects of the tree’s beauty. For example, in cherry blossom gardens, careful pruning ensures that the trees display their delicate blossoms to their full potential during the spring. In some Japanese gardens, particularly those with a mossy ground cover, trees may be pruned to allow dappled sunlight to reach the ground. Dead or decaying branches are selectively removed to maintain the health and appearance of the tree. This is done with consideration for the overall aesthetics and the natural aging process of trees. 

But cutting was not the only thing that was artificial about this place. The grounds were covered with moss, hundreds of square meters of moss with no blade of grass. As at some other sites, we already saw people kneeling on the moss and taking single blades of grass out the moss field, so we did not wonder about this. Keeping in mind that in Europe we do this the other way round cutting out moss out of grass … the fields of moss looked very impressive to us.

From what I learned in Japan there are gardens specifically designed to showcase moss, known as “koke-dera”. Planning of such gardens or areas in bigger gardens goes into selecting moss species that create a visually appealing and diverse tapestry. Different species of moss may be selected based on the specific conditions of the garden, including sunlight exposure, soil type, and moisture levels. Moss is often allowed to spread naturally in Japanese gardens, creating an organic and unstructured appearance. Gardeners may also encourage the moss to colonize various surfaces, such as rocks, pathways, and tree bases, by providing favorable conditions for growth but also transplanting small sections of healthy moss to encourage colonization in desired locations. Regular maintenance is required to keep moss healthy and vibrant. This may include misting the moss to maintain moisture levels, removing debris, fallen leaves that can inhibit growth, removing blades of grass and occasionally pruning to maintain the desired appearance. Efforts are made to minimize disturbance such as heavy foot traffic or excessive handling in moss-covered areas to preserve its aesthetic quality

Kenroku-en has at least three lakes and many waterways crossing the landscape. The sparkling water reflects the beauty of the irises that flourished there. The fields of irises growing directly in the water add a enchanting quality to the scene. The bushes with leaves and blossoms create a beautiful backdrop against the serene waters and lush greenery. Walking on the plastered walkways felt like a journey through a living painting. The wooden structures, like small scattered houses, add rustic charm to the peaceful setting.

The art of lying down gardens in Japan known as the art of “niwa-zukuri” seems to be a vital part of the Japanese culture and design. Each garden we visited offered a unique experience, yet certain features recurred, highlighting the fundamental elements that define the beauty and harmony of Japanese gardens. One of the most prominent features in Japanese gardens is the incorporation of water elements, known as “mizūmi”. These water features, which include ponds, streams, or water basins, play a vital role in evoking a sense of tranquility and natural flow within the garden space. The careful placement of stones and rocks (“ishigumi”) further enhances the visual landscape, symbolizing mountains, islands, or even animals. The meticulous arrangement of these elements contributes to the overall balance and aesthetic appeal of the garden. Moreover, the design of bridges and paths, referred to as “Hashi and Michi” is intentional and deliberate, serving to guide visitors through the garden while providing diverse perspectives and viewpoints. Whether through arched bridges or meandering paths, these architectural elements contribute to the overall aesthetic and create a sense of exploration within the garden space. In certain Japanese gardens, the presence of tea houses (“chaniwa”) reflects the cultural significance of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony. These structures, often characterized by simple and rustic designs, are seamlessly integrated into the garden landscape.

Visiting this old Japanese garden was a serene experience. The peaceful beauty of the landscape, the simple arrangement of the flora, and the ancient architectural elements left a lasting impression. The calm ambiance of the garden imparted a sense of peace and harmony, evoking a deep sense of nostalgia and reverence for the traditional Japanese culture.

One of the advantages of traveling with photographers is the unique selection of places they may choose based on the panoramas they aim to capture. So at the end of our trip to Japan, we went to Jogashima Park, located on a volcanic island on the Pacific coast, to shoot a sunset while looking at the Mount Fuji. Mount Fuji is located at a considerable distance from Jogashima, but its iconic silhouette can often be seen on the horizon, especially when the weather conditions are favorable. Because of its location, Jogashima is considered one of the places from which photographers hope to catch a distant view of Fuji on a clear day. It was to be the crowning event of our two-week trip to Japan.

Unfortunately, the heat caused ocean waters to evaporate and form clouds, obscuring both the sunset and the sight of Mount Fuji. However, spending nearly two hours on a sun-warmed volcanic rock, alongside many others eagerly awaiting the appearance of Fuji, and observing fellow photographers capturing long-exposure photos, proved to be a remarkably conclusion to our intense journey. Enjoying the quiet, I was reviewing my first impressions of Japan.

The volcanic rock of Jogashima was shaped by ancient eruptions and smoothed by time. The day was sunny and the sun made the rock warm. Waves crashed against the shore, creating a soothing symphony. As I sat on the volcanic rock, I observed a few fellow visitors scattered along the coastline, each seemingly absorbed in their own contemplative moments. A couple, hand in hand, strolled along the edge of the cliffs, their faces animated by occasional smiles and shared words. Nearby, a solitary figure hunched over a sketchbook, capturing the rugged beauty of the landscape with swift strokes of a pencil.

We still have to generate statistics, but for sure we made over 1000 km on trains and around 200 km on foot. Back home, with a bit of jet lag and experiencing the time difference, I tried to gather my thoughts. Japan turned out to be one of the friendliest countries to spend vacation in. Beginning with a very efficient public transport system (less expensive than expected if you buy a rail pass for tourists), perfect hygienic conditions (to be frank excellent ones), exciting places to see offering a glimpse of Japan’s rich culture and history and very polite people smiling and nodding on every occasion.

Below are some of my first impressions of Japan.

The entrance to Kanazawa Railway Station. A modern glass and metal building with a 14-metre-high entry designed in a traditional Japanese style. Kanazawa is a city located in Ishikawa Prefecture on the west coast of Honshu. We came there to see Kenroku-en, a stunning Japanese garden that is considered one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan. Together with Kairaku-en in Mito and Koraku-en in Okayama, it belongs to the group known as the Three Great Gardens of Japan.

Kenroku-en in Kanazawa, one of the oldest gardens in Japan. Walking around, you learn what a Japanese garden truly is. Japanese gardens are serene landscapes designed with meticulous attention to detail, reflecting a profound connection to nature and spirituality. These gardens typically feature carefully arranged elements such as rocks, water features, bridges, and meticulously pruned plants. The design philosophy centers around creating a harmonious balance, embodying principles of simplicity, asymmetry, and the artful use of empty space.

Kinkaku-ji, Temple of the Golden Pavilion, is a Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto. Initially built in the 14th century, it was torched in 1950 by a novice monk** and** restored in 1955. The building complex is surrounded by yet another great Japanese Zen garden. Originating in China and later flourishing in Japan, Zen emphasizes the importance of mindfulness, simplicity, and the direct transmission of wisdom from master to disciple. Its teachings have had a profound impact on various aspects of Japanese culture, from art and architecture to the tea ceremony.

Children just out of school, somewhere in the Tokyo agglomeration. In most cities, children wear uniforms. Uniforms in Japanese schools are a distinctive and integral part of the education system. Typically characterized by a sailor-style design for girls and a military-style for boys, school uniforms foster a sense of equality and discipline among students. The uniforms often include specific details reflecting the school’s identity and are worn with pride as a symbol of belonging and conformity in Japanese society. We saw only one exception. Somewhere high in the mountains, in a small village, we saw children coming back from school, wearing only similar caps.

The Japanese cuisine (provided that you correctly choose the place to eat) turned out to be delicious. But, for a person whose first association with Japan is raw fish and rice, it was, however, a bit unexpected with dishes such as rolls with traditional Japanese beef and kimchi inside or grilled beef). Historically, Japan had a predominantly Buddhist culture, and Buddhism discouraged the consumption of meat, including beef. As a result, beef was not a common part of the traditional Japanese diet for many centuries. However, during the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century, Japan underwent significant social and cultural changes, including the loosening of dietary restrictions influenced by Buddhism. With the modernization of Japan, the country began to adopt more Western dietary practices, and the consumption of meat, including beef, increased. Today, beef is a popular and widely consumed meat in Japan.

Japanese cuisine features various beef dishes, and one of the most well-known is “Wagyu.” Wagyu refers to Japanese beef, and it is renowned for its exceptional quality, tenderness, and marbled texture. Different regional varieties of Wagyu, such as Kobe beef, Matsusaka beef, and Hida beef, are highly prized for their unique flavors and characteristics. Yakiniku, which translates to “grilled meat,” is a popular style of dining in Japan where diners grill bite-sized pieces of meat, including beef, at their table.

A food stand, one of many in Tokyo. The vendor is wearing a mask. Not that unusual in Japan, however, it is not as widespread as in other Asian countries. Pollution is rather small in Japan, but the Japanese wear them for hygienic purposes.

Of unexpected things were people wearing traditional clothing. Understandably, we saw newly wedded couples posing to photos as well as professional geishas wearing traditional clothing. But we also saw many girls and women wearing yukataon streets and in public transport. We were told that traditional clothing is considered merely as an elegant way of dressing up. Yukata is a type of kimono, but yukata are generally made of lightweight cotton or synthetic fabric, making them more breathable and comfortable for hot weather. They are characterized by their vibrant colors, bold patterns, and wide sleeves. They are often worn with a wide belt called an obi, which is tied in a simple bow at the back. Traditionally, yukata were worn as casual clothing after bathing in onsen, but today they are also a popular choice for attending summer festivals, fireworks displays, and other traditional events. In places such as Kyoto, they are also often rented by visitors who want to experience traditional dress while exploring the city.

A young Japanese woman wearing a yukata hanging an ema plaque in one of the Japanese Shinto temples. Shinto is the traditional Japanese religion based on beliefs in deities and their powers. In  Shinto temples or shrines you can buy a charm for almost everything: good fortune, prosperous business, love or successful passing of an exam … This kind of charm on a wooden plate is called ema. A worshiper visiting the shrine can buy a special wooden plate, write a wish on it, and hang it on the ema stand. It is believed that the deities listen to those wishes. The plaques often feature images connected with a given shrine or with the zodiac sign of the year. 

A newly married couple, posing to a photographer in the Arashiyama a bamboo forest. Both bride and groom wear traditional clothing. What I saw for the first time in Japan were traditional Japanese sandals (zori or geta) and white tabi socks. Zori are flat sandals with a thong strap that passes between the first and second toes. The sole of zori can be made from various materials, including rice straw, lacquered wood, rubber, or modern synthetic materials. Geta are wooden sandals raised off the ground by two wooden blocks called “ha” or “teeth”. The bottom of geta is usually made of unfinished wood, and the thong strap passes between the big toe and the second toe.

Professional geikos in Gion, a geisha district in Kyoto. Geishas and geikos, deeply rooted in Japanese culture, represent an artful tradition of performance and hospitality. Geishas, often misconceived as mere entertainers, are skilled artists trained in various traditional Japanese arts, including dance, music, and conversation. They epitomize grace and elegance, wearing elaborate kimonos and distinctive hairstyles. Geikos, a term primarily used in Kyoto, are apprentice geishas undergoing rigorous training in the arts and social etiquette. In Kyoto, however, fully trained performers are called geiko, while apprentices are known as maiko. The geisha world is structured with strict hierarchies, emphasizing mentorship and continuity of tradition.

Only a few Japanese people we met spoke excellent English. It was easy to communicate on simple things – some hand signs and smiling were enough. However, without our colleague fluent in Japanese, probably wouldn’t have been so quick in moving around (thank you, Tomek!).

Some other first photo impressions.

A traditional Japanese house. Traditional Japanese house exteriors are characterized by a modest and elegant design, emphasizing a harmonious connection with nature. Roofs with deep eaves, often covered with thatch or wooden shingles, provide protection from rain and sunlight. The simplicity of wooden sliding doors and unadorned facades, along with the integration of engawa (verandas), fosters a seamless indoor-to-outdoor transition.

Taken on a Sunday morning in Ginza, one of the most elegant parts of Tokyo. The density of the world-wide recognized fashion houses represented in the area was very impressive. A square meter of land in the district’s center is worth over ten million yen, making it one of the most expensive real estate markets in Japan.

Taken in Kamikochi, a valley in Hida mountains that is a part of the Chubu-Sangaku National Park. The forests are preserved in a natural state, views are indeed picturesque. Seemingly the mid-may is a time of spring breaks in schools. On the picture young Japanese in school uniforms visiting Kamikochi. Seeing a foreigner on the road, they greeted us with a “hallo”.

A bit different kind of entertainment. Japanese game centers are lively spaces that are an important part of Japanese pop culture. These plazas offer a wide variety of games, from traditional arcade games to the newest video game releases. They are known for their bright lights and fun atmospheres, and have many arcade machines with classic games, rhythm games, fighting games, and more. In addition to video games, they also have claw machines, purikura (photo sticker booths), and other skill-based games. People of all ages visit these plazas, where friends come together for friendly competition and individuals can fully immerse themselves in gaming.

Enjoying nightlife in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Shinjuku is told to be one of the major economic hubs in Tokyo. Many companies have a seat there. It is also a place where people go after work to enjoy the nightlife, which means good food, some alcohol, and pachinkos (play plazas). The area gets emptier only after midnight after the last trains depart. Shinjuku is also the location of the biggest train station in Japan.

… and just to close more seriously: a Japanese temple with a pagoda, a wooden model, shot at one of the temples we visited. Temples are usually widespread groups of premises surrounded by Japanese-style gardens.

A pagoda, a tiered tower structure. It features multiple levels with projecting eaves and upturned roofs, creating a tapered appearance. Pagodas are often associated with Buddhism and serve as religious monuments, housing artifacts and relics. This one is a wooden model of old pagoda in Todai-ji in Nara.