Kenroku-en is an authentic Japanese garden established already in the XVIIth century in Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan, by the Maeda family. The garden’s construction began in 1620 and continued over several generations. The Maeda family were powerful feudal lords during the Edo period (1603–1868). Kenroku-en was not only designed for aesthetic pleasure but also served as a symbol of the power and wealth of the Maeda clan. The garden underwent expansions and improvements by subsequent generations of the Maeda family, contributing to its current form. The garden covers an area of approximately 11.4 hectares (28 acres).

Kenroku-en is one of the three oldest gardens in Japan. It is considered one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan, alongside Kairaku-en in Mito and Koraku-en in Okayama. Its name translated into English means the Six Attributes Garden. Those six attributes of a perfect landscape are spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, waterways, and panoramas. All of them are true for this place.

Spaciousness (“kōki”) – the garden is designed to provide a sense of openness and spaciousness, allowing visitors to appreciate the beauty of the surroundings. Seclusion (“kyōri”) – the gardenn offers various secluded areas where visitors can enjoy moments of tranquility and escape from the outside world. Artifice (“fukurō”) – the garden incorporates elements of human artistry, including carefully placed stones, bridges, paths, and other man-made features that enhance the natural landscape. Antiquity (“shitsurei”) – the garden has a long history, dating back to the 17th century, and its design reflects traditional Japanese gardening principles. Waterways (“setsuryū”) – the garden features ponds, streams, and other water elements that contribute to its aesthetic appeal and create a harmonious atmosphere. Panoramas (“kanshō”) – the garden provides panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, allowing visitors to appreciate the changing scenery from different vantage points.

We arrived in Kenroku-en on a hot and sunny Saturday morning exactly at the opening hour. We wanted to take some photos in the morning light, still before the garden crowds up. Indeed, around noon, it filled in with visitors, who, in the vast majority, were Japanese.

Only after five or ten minutes of walk we saw a pond (lake) surrounded by greenery mirrored in the calm water. The tranquility of the scene was undisturbed, and it felt as if time itself had slowed down in this picturesque setting.

My only notion of a Japanese style of a garden was that it is full of trees not allowed to grow high and cut bonsai like. Later on, during our stay in Japan, we visited at least three other bigger gardens and also saw some small gardens surrounding tiny Japanese houses. Those small gardens were indeed full of bonsai cut trees but rather cut just to fit into a small space. The Kenroku-en is on the other hand big and spacious. Trees are cut, but it is more to give them a shape and remove dry branches. For sure, it is not to keep them small. Old pines are supported by huge wooden poles. A technique we already saw in Japan many times. Many other trees in Kenroku-en seemed to be left to grow naturally.

Indeed prunning trees in Japanese gardens is to give them form and balance. Trees in Japanese gardens are meticulously pruned to achieve a natural yet stylized form. The pruning aims to highlight the inherent beauty of the tree while ensuring it complements the overall design of the garden. There are also specific styles of prunning trees. Cloud Pruning (“niwa zukuri”) is a pruning style where the foliage of a tree or shrub is shaped into rounded, cloud-like forms. It is often used for evergreen trees like pines and azaleas. Cloud pruning adds a sculptural and artistic element to the garden. Garden Woods (“niwa mori”) is on the other hand a selective pruning to maintain a natural appearance while allowing filtered sunlight to create dappled patterns on the ground.

Pruning may be influenced by the changing seasons to showcase different aspects of the tree’s beauty. For example, in cherry blossom gardens, careful pruning ensures that the trees display their delicate blossoms to their full potential during the spring. In some Japanese gardens, particularly those with a mossy ground cover, trees may be pruned to allow dappled sunlight to reach the ground. Dead or decaying branches are selectively removed to maintain the health and appearance of the tree. This is done with consideration for the overall aesthetics and the natural aging process of trees. 

But cutting was not the only thing that was artificial about this place. The grounds were covered with moss, hundreds of square meters of moss with no blade of grass. As at some other sites, we already saw people kneeling on the moss and taking single blades of grass out the moss field, so we did not wonder about this. Keeping in mind that in Europe we do this the other way round cutting out moss out of grass … the fields of moss looked very impressive to us.

From what I learned in Japan there are gardens specifically designed to showcase moss, known as “koke-dera”. Planning of such gardens or areas in bigger gardens goes into selecting moss species that create a visually appealing and diverse tapestry. Different species of moss may be selected based on the specific conditions of the garden, including sunlight exposure, soil type, and moisture levels. Moss is often allowed to spread naturally in Japanese gardens, creating an organic and unstructured appearance. Gardeners may also encourage the moss to colonize various surfaces, such as rocks, pathways, and tree bases, by providing favorable conditions for growth but also transplanting small sections of healthy moss to encourage colonization in desired locations. Regular maintenance is required to keep moss healthy and vibrant. This may include misting the moss to maintain moisture levels, removing debris, fallen leaves that can inhibit growth, removing blades of grass and occasionally pruning to maintain the desired appearance. Efforts are made to minimize disturbance such as heavy foot traffic or excessive handling in moss-covered areas to preserve its aesthetic quality

Kenroku-en has at least three lakes and many waterways crossing the landscape. The sparkling water reflects the beauty of the irises that flourished there. The fields of irises growing directly in the water add a enchanting quality to the scene. The bushes with leaves and blossoms create a beautiful backdrop against the serene waters and lush greenery. Walking on the plastered walkways felt like a journey through a living painting. The wooden structures, like small scattered houses, add rustic charm to the peaceful setting.

The art of lying down gardens in Japan known as the art of “niwa-zukuri” seems to be a vital part of the Japanese culture and design. Each garden we visited offered a unique experience, yet certain features recurred, highlighting the fundamental elements that define the beauty and harmony of Japanese gardens. One of the most prominent features in Japanese gardens is the incorporation of water elements, known as “mizūmi”. These water features, which include ponds, streams, or water basins, play a vital role in evoking a sense of tranquility and natural flow within the garden space. The careful placement of stones and rocks (“ishigumi”) further enhances the visual landscape, symbolizing mountains, islands, or even animals. The meticulous arrangement of these elements contributes to the overall balance and aesthetic appeal of the garden. Moreover, the design of bridges and paths, referred to as “Hashi and Michi” is intentional and deliberate, serving to guide visitors through the garden while providing diverse perspectives and viewpoints. Whether through arched bridges or meandering paths, these architectural elements contribute to the overall aesthetic and create a sense of exploration within the garden space. In certain Japanese gardens, the presence of tea houses (“chaniwa”) reflects the cultural significance of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony. These structures, often characterized by simple and rustic designs, are seamlessly integrated into the garden landscape.

Visiting this old Japanese garden was a serene experience. The peaceful beauty of the landscape, the simple arrangement of the flora, and the ancient architectural elements left a lasting impression. The calm ambiance of the garden imparted a sense of peace and harmony, evoking a deep sense of nostalgia and reverence for the traditional Japanese culture.