Walking the Streets of Historical Ghent

Once again on assignment in Brussels, with work spread over two weeks, I decided to spend the weekend in Belgium. On a rainy Saturday morning, I nearly gave up hope of salvaging the day. But when the skies cleared in the afternoon, I stuck to my original plan. Armed with two cameras, I set off to explore the historic city of Ghent.

Ghent is one of the largest cities in Flanders, located at the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers. In the Middle Ages, it grew into a major centre for trade and textiles, and by the 14th century it ranked among the richest and most influential cities in Europe. Many Gothic landmarks from that period are still standing today, including the Gravensteen castle, St Bavo’s Cathedral and the Belfry.

Here, I’m showing Ghent the way I saw it for the first time – in photos and in the order I walked through it.

The heart of historic Ghent. If you take tram no. 1 from Sint-Pieters railway station to the old town, you’ll get off at Korenmarkt – the point where the dark red and green lines meet on my map.

First, as you look up, you see a street lined with tall Gothic buildings, and above the main roads, a web of cables and tram tracks. It’s an unusual mix. The area is closed to private cars, but as you walk around, you still need to watch out for trams and buses regularly crossing your path.

I bought a day ticket (EUR 7), which turned out to be very useful. If I wanted to change location quickly, instead of walking an extra 10–15 minutes there and back, I could just shorten the route by using a tram. During my four, maybe five hours in the city, I was either walking or taking the tram along two or three streets, leaving the area only once or twice. As it got later in the afternoon, I changed locations to catch the views in different light conditions. As usual, I took plenty of photos. Below is just a selection. Enjoy!

The first view as you get off the tram: to the right, the Saint Nicholas Church, and further back, the 14th-century Belfry (marked by the dark red line on my map). To the left, the Korenmarkt (green line view).

So let us first walk to the right alongside the Saint Bavo Street (dark red line).

Saint Bavo Street. In the first photo, to the left is the Belfry, and straight ahead, the Saint Bavo Cathedral – originally a Romanesque church, rebuilt from the mid-13th century in Gothic style. Shortly before construction was completed in the mid-16th century, the church was plundered by a Calvinist sect: stained glass windows and statues were smashed, and paintings and other artworks destroyed. In the following photos, the Cathedral is shown from the front.

Now I’m standing with my back to the Cathedral. The photos, from left to right, show the Belfry, the passage beside it with the Town Hall in the middle, and on the right, some beautiful buildings on the Cathedral square. My next steps will take me through the passage to the other side of the Belfry (blue line).

The side street led me to the Town Hall (in the first photo, on my left). In the next picture, a quick look up at the Town Hall tower. On the way back, once again, the Belfry appears ahead. I’m now walking back along the blue line on my map.

Yet again, a look up at the Belfry. The way back now leads westward, against the sun. Behind the Belfry stands the Saint Nicholas Church once more – the spot where I first got off tram no. 1. On my map, I’m walking back along the dark red line.

Korenmarkt. On my right-hand side (in the last photo), the other side of the Saint Nicholas Church. I’m now walking along the green line, then turning back westward towards the famous Ghent port quays.

A reverse view from the west side looking east along Saint Bavo Street. In front is the Saint Nicholas Church, further back the Belfry, and in the distance, the Saint Bavo Cathedral. The second photo was taken three hours later than the first one, with the sun already setting – the buildings appear warmer in tone. I’m standing on the Saint Michael’s Bridge, over the River Leie.

On the Saint Michael’s Bridge, looking out over the River Leie (along the pink line on my map). Behind me stands the massive Saint Michael’s Church – I only realised its full scale as I walked down the bridge to the Leie boulevard.

The front view opens onto the Leie boulevards: on my right, the Grass Quay (Graslei), and on my left, the Corn Quay (Korenlei). Both quays were part of the Port of Ghent in medieval times.

On the Leie boulevard behind Korenmarkt, I’m standing on the Corn Quay, looking across at the guild houses on the Grass Quay. In their midst stands the Gildenhuis van de Vrije Schippers. The façades of these medieval buildings were extensively refurbished in the 19th century. I’m now walking along the pink line.

Walking down the Leie boulevards and crossing two more bridges, I reached the Gravensteen – a moated castle originally founded in the 10th century and rebuilt in the late 12th century after a fire. It served its original purpose only until the mid-14th century, after which it shared the fate of many similar buildings across Europe: it was used as a prison, then as a mint, and for a time even as a factory. It was later restored by the Ghent authorities in the 19th century. To move from the pink line to the yellow line on my map, I returned to Korenmarkt via a different bridge to catch a tram. The last photo shows the castle from the back.

Walking the Streets of Historical Ghent

The Crusader King

The statue on the photo below I photographed a bit accidentally in Brussels on the royal route, while standing at a street crossing and waiting for a green light. It was a busy street, with many cars and trams passing by. The photo was not easy to make as the building behind seemed to spoil the picture (in fact an imposing structure of the Brussels royal palace). It seemed a bit of a challenge, so stubbornly I crossed the street towards the monument and tried to direct my camera the way that it finally went well. No, I did not read the description at its foot. My company was getting impatient.

Royal Square, Brussels.

Who the man on the horse was surprised. I realized only back home while processing the photo. To be frank, at this location, I did not expect to see that one. Still, the knight turned out to be not only a hero of his time but also a person symbolic for many years of European history. Even if many hundred years after his undertakings we may look on them with more or less skepticism.

Godfrey of Bouillon, known informally as the King of Jerusalem or the Crusader King was one of the four leaders of the First Crusade from 1096 to 1099 that ended with possession of Jerusalem by Western knights army. Some people before tried to fight on their own hand for the Holy Land listening to the pope Urban II’s call. But the march led by Godfrey as well as three other crusaders’ armies was the first invasion well organized by the European knighthood. The attack had two important goals. The first one was to defend Constantinople against Turkish influence. Today Istanbul in Turkey, hundreds of years ago Constantinople was one of two major powers of the western civilization after the fall of the Roman Empire >>>. The other goal was to ‘protect’ the Holy Land, which meant in practice reinstating the Christian rule in Palestine.

To gather his huge army of forty thousand knights and infantry Godfrey sold or mortgaged most of his lands. Most of the time, during the marches and sieges of the First Crusade Godfrey, played a minor role, letting the more powerful to make the politics. Yet, at the final stage during the siege of Jerusalem in July 1099, he and his knights were the first to enter the city. As a key player, he was considered to become a new ruler in the Holy Land.

Finally chosen, he declined the title of the King of Jerusalem as inappropriate in the religious context. Still, informally, he is today referred to as such. His rule lasted several months marked by warfare, further conquests, and defeats. It is not sure whether he died of a battle wound, by poison or some other disease. He was succeeded by his younger brother Baldwin, who officially accepted the tile of the king in December 1100.

 

The Crusader King

Óbidos. A Medieval Town in Portugal

IImagine a town that still looks much as it did centuries ago. There are barely any street lights apart from a few old lamps attached directly to stone walls. Satellite dishes are almost nowhere to be seen, modern signboards are absent, and even parked cars appear only occasionally. Narrow streets paved with uneven stones climb steeply uphill, twisting between whitewashed houses decorated with simple blue or yellow stripes. In many places, greenery grows directly out of the walls and stairways, softening the already weathered facades. Nothing looks overly restored or artificially polished, which is probably what makes the town feel so authentic.

At first glance, Óbidos does not feel like a tourist attraction carefully prepared for visitors. Instead, it feels like a place that somehow managed to survive almost untouched while the rest of Europe modernised around it. The town is compact and enclosed within medieval walls, creating an atmosphere that changes surprisingly little from one street to another. Every corner looks coherent with the previous one. There are no modern apartment blocks hidden in the background, no large roads cutting through the historic centre, and almost no visual distractions that would break the illusion of travelling back in time.

What makes Óbidos particularly special is the fact that it is not an open-air museum. People still live here behind the old walls, laundry still hangs from some windows, and small details of everyday life appear naturally between souvenir shops and cafés. Early in the morning, before most visitors arrive, the town feels calm and almost strangely quiet. You can hear footsteps echoing on the stone streets, church bells somewhere in the distance, and the sound of birds coming from gardens hidden behind walls. Later during the day, Óbidos becomes much livelier, especially in summer, but even then it never completely loses its historical atmosphere.

The town is small enough to explore without any plan. In fact, wandering aimlessly is probably the best way to experience it. Some streets suddenly open into tiny squares with old churches, while others become so narrow that two people can barely walk side by side. Many houses are covered with flowers, especially bougainvillea climbing over white walls and balconies. In some places, plants seem to grow directly from cracks between stones, adding even more character to the already aged buildings.

One of the most impressive features of Óbidos is its medieval wall system, which still surrounds the entire historic centre. Visitors can walk on large sections of the walls, although there are almost no safety barriers in many places. From the top, there are wide views over the surrounding countryside, vineyards, and white houses packed tightly inside the fortifications. The contrast between the dry landscape outside the walls and the cool, narrow streets inside the town becomes especially noticeable during hot summer afternoons.

The history of Óbidos stretches back to Roman times, when a settlement known as Eburobrittium existed in this part of Portugal. Later, the region came under Moorish control before being reconquered in the 12th century by the first Portuguese king, Afonso Henriques. The castle and defensive walls that still dominate the town today were gradually expanded during the Middle Ages, when Óbidos played an important role in protecting the Portuguese kingdom.

The town also became closely connected with the Portuguese monarchy after King Dinis gave it to Queen Isabel in the 13th century as a wedding gift. For centuries afterwards, Óbidos belonged to Portugal’s queens, earning the nickname Town of the Queens. Unlike many fortified towns that later lost their original appearance due to industrialisation or modern development, Óbidos remained relatively untouched. Ironically, its later economic decline helped preserve much of its medieval character. Large-scale redevelopment never truly arrived here, and restoration works carried out during the 20th century focused mainly on protecting the historical appearance of the town rather than transforming it into something cleaner and more commercialised.

Today, tourism is naturally an important part of the local economy, but Óbidos still feels far more authentic than many famous historical towns elsewhere in Europe. There are souvenir shops and restaurants, but they usually occupy old buildings rather than replacing them. Even the commercial parts of the town blend relatively naturally into the medieval surroundings.

We visited Óbidos in August, when the streets were already full of visitors escaping the Atlantic coast heat. Despite the crowds, however, the town still managed to preserve much of its atmosphere, especially outside the main street near the entrance gate.

Apparently, the atmosphere becomes even more unique in July during the annual medieval festival. Historical decorations appear throughout the town, performers dress in period costumes, and various events recreate scenes from Portugal’s medieval past. Even without the festival, though, Óbidos already feels like one of the closest things to a real medieval town that can still be experienced in modern Europe.

 

Óbidos. A Medieval Town in Portugal