Raphael’s Rooms

Some time ago during a visit in Musei Vaticani in the second hour of a slow walk in the crowd, I was simply too tired to admire that what we saw. The Museum is totally overwhelming as far as the number of artifacts, artworks as well as handicrafts all around are concerned. There were moments I made photos just to be able to follow the route quietly later at home. My neck was tense because of the constant looking up onto the frescoes and other ceiling decorations. To be frank, I did not prepare earlier for this visit, so I had no idea what was still ahead of us. For a couple of minutes, we entered an enormous hall with frescoes all around. I did not want to speculate on its size, but this was altogether hundreds of meters. Then there was another room and another. You could have only looked around, stopping for a while, and catching the momentum.

We entered the so-called Raphael’s Rooms, a series of chambers decorated by the Italian Renaissance master Raphael, or his pupils. In fact, the sightseeing route begins in the reverse order. It starts in the Room of Constantine, a great hall designed for reception and official ceremony purposes. The frescoes are not by Raphael himself. Raphael died before he was able to finish them. The work was completed by artists, who worked in his workshop, upon the original Raphael’s design. The room is devoted to the Roman emperor Constantine, who was the first Christian Emperor of ancient Rome.

Only a small fraction of a wall fresco in the Room of Constantine, showing the Battle of Constantine against Maxentius, painted by Raphael’s pupil Julio Romano.

Later on, we visited a series of smaller chambers that had been designed to serve as the pope’s private chambers that are told to be painted by Raphael himself. This can be, however, not entirely true, as Raphael is said to have maintained one of the most significant workshops in Rome. Translated into English, it means that he employed many talented people who did auxiliary work for him.

Raphael or Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino (1483-1520), was one of the greatest artists of the Italian Renaissance (alongside Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci). He is one of those artists who died young but left immense art heritage. Raphael’s Rooms are told to be one of his greatest achievements. On the picture left, you can see Raphael’s self-portrait on display in the Louvre collection in Paris.  But artists sometimes painted their self-portraits inside works for which they have been commissioned. One of them (supposedly) is in Raphael’s Rooms on the wall with a fresco depicting the School of Athens. In the middle of it, there are two masterminds of the ancient times: Plato (to the left) and his pupil Aristotle (to the right). The head of Plato is a portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, and that of Aristotle is indeed Raphael’s self-portrait.

Raphael’s Rooms are decorated with frescoes all around. You can admire paintings on each wall and on all ceilings. Because of the crowds, I made only a few photos directing my camera up from above people’s heads. However, on the Musei Vaticani web page, we can admire the empty Raphael’s rooms on pictures and in the form of the virtual tour (>>>).

Below some other photo impressions.

Raphael’s Rooms

Baroque, baroque …

The baroque facade of the royal palace in Wilanow, a municipality of Warsaw, Poland. Wilanow is one of Warsaw quarters, formerly a village where John III Sobieski built his summer residence. The palace, with an extensive park, rebuilt and reconstructed after the war struggles, is still the very center of this part of the city. The Wilanow Palace is told to be a nobility house, an Italian garden villa, and a French palace in the style of Louis XIV all in one.

Baroque is a European style of architecture, music, painting, sculpture, and other arts predominant from the early XVII till the mid-XVIII century. Emerging in response to the rigid constraints of the preceding Renaissance era, Baroque was characterized by its dynamic, ornate, and emotive qualities. In architecture, Baroque manifested in grandeur and opulence, evident in iconic structures such as St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and the Palace of Versailles in France. Elaborate ornamentation, dramatic use of light and shadow, and a sense of theatricality defined buildings, creating a visual language that conveyed both power and spirituality. Baroque painting and sculpture embraced movement and emotion, exemplified by artists like Caravaggio and Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Dramatic chiaroscuro, vivid colors, and a focus on capturing intense moments characterized its visual arts, reflecting the fervent spirit of the age. This period, often associated with the Catholic Counter-Reformation, utilized art as a powerful tool for emotional and spiritual engagement. The grandeur of Baroque reflected the political and religious fervor of the time, leaving an enduring legacy that continues to captivate and inspire across the cultural landscape of Europe and beyond.

Baroque followed Renaissance and preceded Neoclassical style.

Baroque art in most of Europe is extravagant, detailed, of deep contrast and color. It aims to deceive the eye by optical illusions to create three-dimensional views. The exception is France, where baroque style is more decent, classical-like, and less ornate.

Baroque, baroque …

The Louvre

Louvre originally built as a fortress in the late XIIth century by King Philip II is a former seat of French kings and one of the most famous museums in Europe.

The fortress was transformed into a luxurious royal residence by the French king Charles V in the XIV century during the Renaissance period. Much work had to be done, beginning with building in windows to put light on the premises. The walls were raised, new and old ceilings embellished. was an avid art collector and expanded the Louvre’s collection with works by Italian masters such as Leonardo da Vinci. The Mona Lisa, acquired during his reign, became later one of the museum’s most iconic pieces. In the 17th century, during the reign of Louis XIII, the Louvre underwent further expansion.The last king, who used Louvre as a royal residence was Louis XIV.

Louis XIV, the Sun King, also played a significant role in the Louvre’s history. While he shifted the royal residence to Versailles, he continued to use the Louvre for various functions. Under his reign, architect Louis Le Vau expanded the Louvre’s footprint, creating the Cour Carrée (Square Courtyard). Louis XIV’s minister, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, initiated the establishment of the Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture within the Louvre in 1648. This marked a pivotal moment in the Louvre’s transformation into a public institution dedicated to the arts. Although the Louvre’s role as a royal residence diminished over time, it continued to evolve as a center of artistic and cultural significance. By the end of Louis XIV’s reign in the late 17th century, the Louvre had laid the foundation for its future as one of the world’s most renowned museums. In 1682 the Louvre was formally envisioned as a place to display the royal collection. The museum as such opened a century later in 1793 during the French Revolution as a consequence of a decree by National Assembly.

The corridors and halls are indeed very spacious. Being accustomed only to the view of the main courtyard with pyramids, one does not comprehend how big this building is. As Louvre is located directly alongside the Seine, to see its true size it is good to take a look at the palace from the other side of the river.

The glass and metal pyramids in the main courtyard (a big one and three smaller ones) were built in 1989. Much controversy arose around them in the beginning, but with time somehow they had grown into the perspective. The big pyramid serves as the main entrance to the museum. It is used mainly by individual visitors. Organized groups are let in through another entrance at the right-wing of the palace (left-hand side if one faces the pyramids from the outside courtyard).

As Louvre is visited by thousands daily, the premises have been placed under additional security precautions. Inside one has to undergo a security check. There are also soldiers heavy-armed guarding the outer premises. (I made the picture below quite accidentally in Summer 2016, but the view is indeed not unusual).

The hall under the pyramids is of a modern look. There are many souvenir shops inside. For a moment you can get a feeling that you are in a very stylish shopping mall.

As the sightseeing starts with exhibition halls that are elegant but of decent design, you do not have a shock of exchanging modernity into the opulent royal design. However, some parts of the palace are kept as they were in royal times. Trespassing the ballroom door is like being transferred to another era. Inside, you will find some fine objects to be admired including the crown jewels with the crown that belonged to Luis XV (all other French royal crowns were lost or destroyed in times of revolution). However, do not forget to look onto walls, ceilings, and doors. There are pieces of art themselves.

Of things you have to be prepared for is that it is very loud in the museum, especially in those exhibition halls that are heavily occupied (>>>).  As the palace is indeed very big, you have to be also prepared for walking miles.

Below some photo impressions from the interiors and the collection (in random order).

M U S E E   D U   L O U V R E  

PHOTO  IMPRESSIONS (2017)  

The Louvre