In the very heart of the ancient Rome

For around 1,500 years, the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum located beneath the Hill were the very centers of Rome and the very center of one of the most powerful empires of ancient times. If you look from the Palatine Hill, you will see the famous Roman Colosseum located at the right-hand side of the Roman Forum.

Looking from the Palatine hill, you can also see the remains of other Roman fora. Besides the Roman Forum (Forum of Trajan – with some buildings still well preserved, these are Forum of Augustus and Forum of Nerva). They are however cut by one of the main modern Roman streets Via Dei Fori Imperiali, constructed by order of Benito Mussolini in the first half of the XX century.

The Palatine Hill was the place of living for the emperor and some other aristocratic families (referred to as patrician families). The Roman Forum was the center of Roman government and administration.

The ruins of the Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum are today a ring-fenced tourist attraction. You cannot say that the buildings are well preserved. In fact, they are not. Only some are. So on the spot, it is difficult to imagine the greatness of this place. But still, it is worthwhile to at least once visit this place – just to take a walk through the very center of ancient Europe. There are a couple of entrances to the site. Starting at the Colosseum (standing back to the Via Dei Fori Imperiali with the Colosseum to your left) you can turn right directly to the Roman Forum. Or, you can go straight alongside the fence till you reach a gate to the Palatine Hill. You will have to climb a bit to reach the ruins of its palaces. Crossing the hill, you will finally get to its edge, which is, in fact, a terrace from which you can take a look at the whole Roman Forum. Later you can take the stairs down, till you get down to the Forum. The entire route will take you 2-3 hours of a slow walk.

Below some photo impressions.

The ruins of the Flavian Palace, with its own stadium (referred to as the Palatine stadium), that in fact was a hippodrome, where horses were exercised. It is probably the best-preserved spot on the Palatine Hill.

The Palatine Hill seen from the Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum, inside or seen from above.

Travelling Europe and North Africa, from time to time we can see some more or less preserved ruins of a Roman city or single Roman buildings. I had a chance of visiting at least three other places with ruins of a Roman town: the ancient Pompeii (Italy), quite well preserved as it was covered with the volcanic dust, a couple of smaller ruin complexes in the Southern part of Cyprus, as well as the very impressive ruins of the ancient Leptis Magna and Sabratha in Northern Africa (at present in Libya), preserved by the desert sands. (I do sincerely hope that the wars and turmoil currently taking place in that region did not touch the latter.) With the development of information technologies, it is, however, possible to reflect the greatness of the ancient architecture and ancient cities. I remember seeing the first time the IT simulations of the Roman Forum in the Gladiator movie. It was just impressive. Maybe in the future, it will be possible to walk inside a 3D simulation.

Still of Roman Forum.

In the very heart of the ancient Rome

Santa Prassede

Rome is known for its churches, hundreds of churches. If being there, you can basically devote your whole stay to visit one church after another. I think that most people, who are not true art fans, after five or six churches, basilicas and cathedrals visited in a series are in a state of confusion. Even taking photos, but not using a tracking app, it is easy to get lost. We remember only those churches, which for some reason were different from the others.

The Santa Prassede church located in the neighborhood of the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore is one of such places. It is quite small and a bit hidden. Therefore it is not that popular with tourists.

It was commissioned in the IX century by the pope Paschal the Ist and erected upon an older church. It is devoted to the St. Prassede (or Praxedes) and her sister St. Pudentiana. They are told to have taken care of Christian martyrs’ bodies in ancient Rome and provided charitable aid for hunted down Christians. St. Prassede is said to be the daughter of Pudens, a Roman senator, who was supposedly one of the St. Peter’s pupils. It is, however, not a stated fact.

The Santa Prassede interiors represent the so-called Carolingian Renaissance style of VIII and IX centuries, inspired by the Roman Christian art and architecture of the IV century with some influences of the Byzantine style. The Byzantine style art appeared in the Western Europe art of that time as some of Byzantine artists were resident in Carolingian cultural centers.

The church is known among others for its opulent Byzantine mosaics. (To read more details about this place, pieces of art and relics inside follow the link >>>). By the way, the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore is considered to be one of the most exceptional Byzantine style interiors in Rome. After visiting both churches, you can imprint the style in your head.

A short historical explanation:

Carolingian Empire was led by Charlemagne (Charles the Great >>>), who was the king of Franks, and his descendants. Geographically, it covered present French, German, Benelux, and Northern Italy territories; so, in fact, current Western Europe. The joint capital cities were Aachen (presently in Germany, for some probably known with is Latin name Aquis Granum) and Rome.

Byzantine Empire covered South-East Europe, some parts of Asia and Africa all around the Mediterranean sea. Its capital was Byzantium or Constantinople that corresponds to present Istanbul in Turkey.

Santa Prassede

Campo de’ Fiori. A Short Reflection on Giordano Bruno

Standing in Campo de’ Fiori today, it is not immediately obvious what happened here – the square is lively, full of cafés, market stalls, and the everyday rhythm of Rome. Yet this is exactly the place where one of the most dramatic intellectual confrontations in European history reached its end. It is one of those places where the contrast is almost unsettling – a busy market square, and a place of execution at the same time.

Statue by Ettore Ferrari at Campo dei Fiori, Rome, where Bruno was burned at stake as a heretic on charges including denial of core Catholic doctrines.

It is here, in the middle of this ordinary Roman square, that one of the most important thinkers of his time was executed – a moment that would later come to symbolise the tension between authority and intellectual freedom. The name Campo de’ Fiori literally means Field of Flowers, a reminder that this area once hosted flower markets long before it became one of the liveliest squares in Rome.

Giordano Bruno was born in 1548 in Nola, Italy. He joined the Dominican order at the age of 17 and spent several years studying philosophy and theology. However, Bruno was known for his unorthodox ideas and his refusal to conform to traditional dogma. He began to develop his own ideas about the nature of the universe, which were heavily influenced by the teachings of the ancient philosopher Lucretius. He also supported the Copernican heliocentric model – but went significantly further, arguing that the universe is infinite, that stars are other suns, and that there may be countless worlds beyond our own. At the same time, his views on religion were equally controversial – he rejected key Catholic doctrines and had a very different, more philosophical idea of God, one that did not fit into the official teachings of the Church. What makes Bruno particularly compelling is not only what he thought, but how far he was willing to go to defend those ideas. He did not simply question details – he challenged the entire structure of how the universe was understood at the time.

Giordano Bruno’s problems began while he was still a Dominican monk in Naples. His behaviour and intellectual curiosity quickly drew attention – he read books that were considered suspect or even forbidden, including works by Erasmus of Rotterdam, and began to question accepted theological interpretations. He is also said to have removed religious images from his cell, keeping only a crucifix, which raised further suspicion. These actions led to the first accusations of heresy and an official investigation, making his position increasingly precarious.

From this moment, his life became a sequence of departures, new beginnings, and growing tension – a pattern that feels very tangible when you trace his story across Europe. Despite his successes, Bruno continued to face criticism for his unconventional ideas.

In 1576, he fled from Italy to Geneva, where he briefly taught at the Calvinist Academy. In Geneva, he hoped that things would be different under the Calvinists and that his position would be easier than in Catholic Italy. However, this quickly proved not to be the case. He openly criticised one of the professors, which led to his arrest and excommunication, and he was forced to leave the city shortly afterwards.

He then moved to France, where he lectured at the University of Paris. In Paris, Bruno gained recognition not only for his philosophical ideas, but also for his extraordinary memory techniques. He taught and demonstrated systems of memorisation that allowed complex information to be structured and recalled with remarkable precision. These methods, often based on visualisation and the mental organisation of knowledge, fascinated his audience and contributed to his reputation as a brilliant and unconventional thinker. His skill in this area even attracted the attention of King Henry III, who is said to have taken a personal interest in his work.

However, this stability did not last. As religious tensions in France intensified and his position became less secure, the intellectual climate grew increasingly difficult for someone with his views. When an opportunity arose to travel to England, he accepted it, hoping to find a more open environment for his ideas. In 1583, he moved to England. However, his ideas still attracted controversy, particularly at Oxford, where they were met with scepticism and criticism. After a relatively short stay, he left England and continued his travels across Europe, moving between France and the German states.

Eventually, he returned to Italy upon an invitation from Giovanni Mocenigo, a Venetian nobleman who wanted to study with him. Mocenigo was particularly interested in Bruno’s techniques of memory and his philosophical ideas, and Bruno agreed to stay in his house and teach him. However, the relationship quickly deteriorated. Mocenigo became frustrated, believing that Bruno was withholding knowledge and planning to leave him. Feeling deceived, he reported Bruno to the Inquisition, describing his views as heretical.

This led to Bruno’s arrest in 1592. He was later transferred to Rome, where he spent several years in prison before his trial and execution. He was repeatedly interrogated and tortured. He refused to renounce his beliefs. Despite attempts by some prominent figures to save his life, Bruno was found guilty and sentenced to death. On February 17, 1600, he was taken to the Campo de’ Fiori, a public square in Rome, and burned at the stake.

The statue you see today was erected much later, deliberately facing the Vatican – a quiet but powerful gesture that adds another layer of meaning when you stand here and look at it. His death has since become a symbol of the conflict between science and religion and the struggle for intellectual freedom. It was not one single idea that led him here, but a broader way of thinking that went far beyond what was acceptable at the time.

Despite his tragic end, Bruno’s ideas would go on to influence many later thinkers, including Galileo and Descartes. Today, he is remembered as a pioneer of modern scientific thought and a champion of intellectual freedom. When you visit Campo de’ Fiori, it is worth pausing for a moment – not just to look at the statue, but to realise that this ordinary square once witnessed something far from ordinary.

 

Campo de’ Fiori. A Short Reflection on Giordano Bruno