A Quick Guide Through the History of Japan

For many visitors, Japanese history can seem confusing at first. It is usually presented as a succession of historical periods. Names such as Nara, Heian, Kamakura or Edo provide the chronological framework used in most history books. The periods are named after the place from which political power was exercised rather than after a ruling dynasty or an individual ruler. The Nara Period takes its name from the ancient capital of Nara, the Heian Period from Heian-kyō (present-day Kyoto), the Kamakura Period from the city where the first shogunate established its government, and the Edo Period from Edo, now known as Tokyo. From the Meiji Period onwards, since 1868, at the beginning of the new emeror’s reign the name of the period is chosen by the Japanese government after consultation with experts in classical Chinese and Japanese literature. Rather than describing a place or a ruler, the era name expresses an ideal or aspiration for the new reign. For example, Meiji meant Enlightened Rule, After an emperor’s death, the era name also becomes the emperor’s posthumous name.

For someone discovering Japan from the outside, however, remembering the names of successive periods is often less important than understanding the changes that shaped the country over the centuries. Looking at how political power shifted, how religion evolved, why the samurai became so influential, why Japan chose isolation for more than two centuries, and how it eventually transformed into a modern state makes its history much easier to follow.

The beginnings of Japan lie in a long process during which local communities, clans and regional rulers were gradually brought within a more centralised political structure. It is difficult to point to one moment when Japan suddenly became a state. According to Japanese tradition, the first emperor was Jimmu, who is said to have ascended the throne in 660 BC. This date is not treated by modern historians as a verified historical event. Jimmu belongs to Japan’s founding mythology, in which the imperial line was linked to the sun goddess Amaterasu. This gave the emerging state a sacred origin and placed the emperor at the centre of its political and religious order.

A historically recognisable centre of power developed much later, around the Yamato court. From roughly the third to the sixth centuries AD, the rulers associated with Yamato extended their influence over other clans and regions. This was not a rapid conquest. Authority was built gradually through alliances, conflict, marriage and the incorporation of powerful local families into a wider political system. The ruler of the Yamato court eventually came to be known as the emperor. The position combined political authority with ritual significance.

Although Japan is an island nation, it did not develop in complete isolation. From around the fourth century onwards, ideas, technologies and cultural influences reached the Japanese archipelago from mainland Asia, particularly from China, often through the Korean Peninsula. One of the most significant developments was the introduction of Chinese writing. Before that, Japan had no indigenous writing system. The adoption of Chinese characters not only made written communication possible but also allowed knowledge, religious texts and administrative practices to be recorded and preserved. Over time, these characters evolved into the writing system used in Japan today, alongside the two phonetic scripts, hiragana and katakana, which were developed later.

Buddhism reached Japan in the sixth century, most likely through the Korean kingdom of Baekje, although its origins lay in India and it had already spread across much of Asia through China and Korea. The introduction of Buddhism was not universally welcomed. At the imperial court, influential clans disagreed over whether the new religion should be accepted, making its arrival as much a political issue as a religious one. Once Buddhism gained imperial support, however, it spread rapidly and became one of the foundations of Japanese civilisation, coexisting with the older Shinto beliefs instead of replacing them.

The imperial court also looked to China as a model for government. Administrative institutions, legal codes, court ceremonies and many aspects of high culture were inspired by the Chinese system. Yet Japan never became a copy of China. Foreign ideas were carefully selected, modified and combined with existing Japanese traditions. This ability to adopt outside influences while preserving a distinct identity would become one of the defining characteristics of Japanese history.

By the late twelfth century, the Emperor was no longer the person who exercised day-to-day political or military power. That role passed to the shōgun, the commander of the military government. The first shogunate was established in 1192 by Minamoto no Yoritomo after years of civil war between two powerful military clans, the Minamoto and the Taira. After defeating the Taira, the lead Yoritomo did not replace the Emperor. Instead, he became shōgun and created a military government that ruled in the Emperor’s name.

The Emperor remained the formal head of the state and the main source of political legitimacy. The shōgun was the country’s actual military and political ruler. He controlled the central government, appointed officials and relied on the support of powerful regional lords. Below him were the daimyō, who governed large domains across Japan. They collected taxes, administered justice and maintained their own armed forces. Within their territories, they exercised considerable independence, although they were expected to remain loyal to the shōgun. The balance between central authority and regional power was often fragile. A strong shōgun could keep the daimyō under control, while a weak military government gave ambitious lords more room to compete for influence and territory.

The military power of the daimyō depended on the samurai. Originally, they were professional warriors who served powerful lords in return for land, income or other privileges. Their primary duty was to defend their lord’s domain, enforce his authority and fight in his armies. During periods of peace, many samurai also worked as administrators, judges and government officials, making them an essential part of the political system rather than simply a military class. Over the centuries, the samurai developed a distinct code of conduct based on loyalty, discipline and personal honour. A samurai’s first duty was to his lord, and betraying that loyalty was regarded as one of the greatest disgraces. In some circumstances, a samurai who had failed his lord or lost his honour was expected to commit seppuku, a ritual form of suicide that was believed to restore personal honour. Although this practice was never common among the wider population, it became one of the defining symbols of the samurai tradition and remains closely associated with Japanese history today.

The first shogunate did not last forever. Over the following centuries, military governments rose and fell as powerful clans fought for control of Japan. Some shogunates collapsed because of internal conflicts, others were overthrown after civil wars. Rival daimyō frequently formed alliances, broke them and fought each other for territory and political influence. For centuries, this military system proved remarkably resilient. Japan’s mountainous landscape made central control over the entire archipelago difficult, while powerful regional lords were often better placed than the imperial court to govern distant provinces and maintain order. In return for land, income and protection, the daimyō expected loyalty from their samurai, creating a network of personal obligations that shaped Japanese society for generations. Periods of stability were repeatedly interrupted by violent struggles for power. Although periods of civil war repeatedly disrupted the country, the basic political structure remained largely unchanged for centuries.

The vast majority of Japanese people were farmers, craftsmen and merchants. Agriculture formed the foundation of the economy, with rice becoming both the staple food and the principal measure of wealth. At the same time, Japan’s long coastline and abundant coastal waters made fishing an equally important source of food. Fish and seafood became an essential part of the Japanese diet, a tradition that has continued to the present day. Taxes were often paid in rice, the income of many daimyō was calculated in the amount of rice their lands could produce, and a domain’s wealth was measured in koku, a unit originally defined as the amount of rice needed to feed one person for a year. Improved farming techniques and the expansion of irrigated rice fields produced larger harvests. This created food surpluses, supported a growing population and generated greater tax revenues. Together with fishing and coastal trade, agriculture provided the economic foundation on which Japan’s towns, castles and political institutions developed.

At the beginning of the seventeenth century, the reunification of Japan under the shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu brought more than two centuries of relative peace. This stability encouraged the rapid growth of towns and cities. Kyoto remained the imperial capital and an important cultural centre, while Osaka developed into Japan’s commercial heart and the country’s principal rice market. Edo, now Tokyo, became the seat of the Tokugawa shogunate and grew into one of the largest cities in the world by the eighteenth century, with a population of more than one million people. (Hensce this period of the Japanese history is refferred to as Edo period.) Castle towns developed around the residences of the daimyō, becoming centres of administration, trade and craftsmanship. Many of these towns continued to flourish for centuries, and their historic street layouts can still be recognised today. Trade flourished despite the country’s feudal structure. Goods were transported along an extensive network of roads and coastal shipping routes, particularly through the Seto Inland Sea, the body of water separating the islands of Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu, which linked many of Japan’s most important ports. Rice, timber, salt, fish, ceramics, paper, textiles and countless everyday products moved between regions.

The Tokugawa government required each daimyō to maintain two households, one in his own domain and another in Edo. He travelled regularly between them, spending alternating periods at the shogun’s court and in his own territory, while his wife, heir and other close family members normally remained in Edo. Their permanent presence there allowed the shogunate to keep the regional lords under control and made rebellion far more difficult. On the other hand, maintaining these regular journeys stimulated trade, transport, accommodation and the development of towns along the main routes.

As trade expanded and towns grew, merchants accumulated considerable wealth and artisans refined their crafts. Although merchants officially occupied one of the lowest positions in the social hierarchy, many became economically influential through commerce and finance. Prosperous townspeople supported theatres, writers, artists and craftsmen, giving rise to a distinctive urban culture. New forms of theatre became popular, illustrated books reached a wider audience, and artists produced colourful woodblock prints depicting landscapes, actors, beautiful women and scenes from everyday life. Entertainment districts also became centres of music, dance and traditional performing arts. It was in this urban culture that the profession of the geisha developed. Geisha were highly trained entertainers, skilled in conversation, music, dance and traditional arts. Contrary to a common misconception outside Japan, they were not prostitutes, but professional artists whose role was to entertain guests at formal gatherings and banquets.

While Japan was becoming more prosperous, the Tokugawa shogunate was also paying close attention to events beyond its borders. From the sixteenth century onwards, European ships were arriving in increasing numbers across Asia. Portuguese and Spanish merchants established trading networks, Christian missionaries sought to convert local populations, and several European powers gradually expanded their political influence over overseas territories. Japanese rulers feared that foreign influence might eventually undermine their authority and threaten the country’s political stability. To reduce that risk, the Tokugawa government gradually introduced a series of measures that strictly regulated overseas trade and contact with the outside world. This policy, later known as sakoku, did not however completely isolate Japan. Trade continued with China and Korea, while Dutch merchants were allowed to operate from the small artificial island of Dejima in Nagasaki. Nevertheless, foreign contacts remained under close government supervision for more than two centuries.

For more than two centuries, the Tokugawa shogunate had provided Japan with political stability. By the middle of the nineteenth century, however, it was becoming increasingly difficult to maintain the country’s isolation. Western nations were expanding their presence in East Asia and expected Japan to open its ports to international trade.

The turning point came in 1853, when an American naval squadron commanded by Commodore Matthew Perry entered Edo Bay. The arrival of his modern steam-powered warships exposed the enormous technological gap that had developed between Japan and the industrialised West. Fearing an attack on Edo, the Tokugawa shogunate ordered the construction of a series of coastal artillery forts to defend the bay. Several of these artificial islands still survive today as part of modern Odaiba, one of Tokyo’s best-known waterfront districts. The defences, however, could not change the balance of power. When Perry returned the following year with an even larger fleet, the shogunate recognised that Japan was in no position to resist militarily. A series of agreements signed in the mid-19th century ended more than two centuries of tightly controlled isolation.

The arrival of Perry exposed deep divisions within Japan. Some believed the country should continue to resist foreign influence, while others argued that Japan had to modernise rapidly if it wished to remain independent. As the political crisis deepened, several powerful domains, particularly Satsuma and Chōshū, turned against the Tokugawa shogunate and formed an alliance in support of the Emperor. Their victory in the Boshin War (1868-1869) brought nearly seven centuries of military rule to an end. In 1868, political authority was formally restored to Emperor Meiji in an event known as the Meiji Restoration. Although the Emperor became the symbol of the new state, the reforms themselves were implemented by a group of influential political leaders acting in his name. They believed that Japan could preserve its independence only by modernising as quickly as possible and building a state capable of matching the Western powers.

The changes were unprecedented. The feudal system was abolished, the domains of the daimyō were replaced by a centrally governed administration, and the samurai lost their traditional privileges. Japan introduced a modern system of government, a national conscript army, compulsory education, an expanding railway network and rapidly growing industries. At the same time, the country actively studied Western science, technology and political institutions, adapting them to Japanese conditions rather than simply copying them. Within little more than a generation, Japan transformed itself from a largely feudal society into a modern industrial state. Railways connected the country’s major cities, factories began producing modern machinery and textiles, telegraph lines improved communication, and a national education system prepared a new generation for an increasingly industrial economy. The drive to modernise also had unintended consequences. Determined to break with the feudal past, the new government regarded many castles, samurai residences and other historic buildings as symbols of an outdated era. Some were abandoned, dismantled or demolished. Ironically, many of the castles that visitors admire in Japan today survived only because local communities, former feudal families or later conservation movements recognised their historical value before it was too late.

The reforms introduced during the Meiji Restoration transformed Japan into one of Asia’s strongest industrial and military powers. Within one generation, the country had built a modern army and navy, expanded its industries and developed a strong central government.

As Japan’s confidence and economic strength grew, it also sought a greater political and military role in East Asia. Its victories in the First Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) and the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) surprised much of the world. The victory over Russia was particularly significant. For the first time in the modern era, an Asian power had defeated a major European empire in a large-scale war. As its confidence grew, Japan also began to build a colonial empire. Taiwan became a Japanese colony in 1895, Korea was formally annexed in 1910, and Japan gradually expanded its political and military influence across East Asia. During the 1930s, this expansion accelerated, particularly in China, and Japan established the puppet state of Manchukuo in Manchuria. Like several other major powers of the period, Japan increasingly pursued its political ambitions through military expansion, a course that eventually led the country into the Second World War.

In 1940, it joined Germany and Italy in the Tripartite Pact, becoming one of the three major Axis powers during the Second World War. The conflict spread across much of Asia and the Pacific and eventually brought Japan into direct confrontation with the United States and its allies. The war ended in 1945 after the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, the only use of nuclear weapons against cities and civilian populations in history. Japan surrendered shortly afterwards, bringing both the war and the Japanese Empire to an end. The country was then occupied by Allied forces under the leadership of the United States. During the occupation, Japan adopted a new constitution, introduced democratic reforms and renounced war as a sovereign right of the state. These reforms laid the foundations of modern Japanese democracy. The post-war years were extremely difficult. Much of Japan’s infrastructure had been destroyed, many cities lay in ruins and millions of people faced food shortages, homelessness and economic uncertainty. Rebuilding the country required not only physical reconstruction but also profound political, economic and social change.

The decades that followed were marked by rapid reconstruction and extraordinary economic growth. Japan redirected its national ambitions away from military expansion and towards industry, education, technology and international trade. The government supported sectors considered important for long-term development, while banks and large companies financed investment in modern factories, infrastructure and research. A well-educated workforce, high levels of saving and close cooperation between public institutions and private industry helped companies expand production and compete successfully on foreign markets. Japan initially became known for producing affordable manufactured goods, but this changed rapidly. Japanese industry invested in improving quality, efficiency and production methods, and the country soon moved into more advanced sectors such as engineering, shipbuilding, electronics and motor manufacturing.

This growth was also closely connected to the international situation after the war. Japan benefited from access to American markets, security guarantees provided by the United States and strong demand created by the Korean War. By the 1960s and 1970s, Japan had become one of the world’s leading industrial nations. This period, often referred to as the Japanese economic miracle, transformed a country devastated by war into one of the largest and most technologically advanced economies. It also changed Japanese society. Millions of people moved from rural areas to rapidly expanding cities, living standards rose and a large urban middle class emerged. The transformation was not without costs, including long working hours, environmental damage and increasing pressure on urban life. Although Japan experienced slower economic growth after the collapse of the asset price bubble in the early 1990s, it remained one of the world’s largest economies and continued to play a leading role in technology, manufacturing and scientific research. At the same time, the country began to face new challenges, including an ageing population, low birth rates and the need to adapt its economy to changing global conditions.

Today’s Japan reflects every stage of this long history. Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples stand beside modern skyscrapers, centuries-old castles survive alongside high-speed railways, and traditions that developed hundreds of years ago continue to shape everyday life. Understanding these historical layers makes it much easier to appreciate the places that visitors encounter across the country today.

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A Quick Guide Through the History of Japan

Binzuru

Binzuru was one of the arhats. Arhats are beings who have attained a state of spiritual liberation through direct understanding of the Buddha’s teachings. They are believed to be entirely free from suffering, desire, and the cycle of rebirth (samsara). Although they are not buddhas, they have reached enlightenment and are characterised by deep wisdom and spiritual purity.

In Buddhism, particularly in China, Japan and Tibet, a tradition developed around the veneration of the Sixteen (or Eighteen) Arhats. According to legend, these were disciples of Shakyamuni Buddha who were entrusted with the task of preserving and protecting the Dharma – that is, the Buddha’s teaching, the cosmic law, and the spiritual path leading to liberation. Dharma is not merely a set of moral rules; it is also the universal truth about the nature of reality, which the practitioner is meant to realise and embody. Statues of the arhats are commonly found in temples. They are portrayed as elderly monks, each with a distinctive facial expression, gesture or attribute, symbolising various aspects of spiritual practice – from contemplation to acts of compassion.

One of the most revered arhats in Japan is Binzuru, known in Sanskrit as Pindola Bharadvaja. According to legend, he was one of the Buddha’s most gifted disciples, endowed with great spiritual powers. However, he used these abilities inappropriately – showing off before others, for instance by levitating. The Buddha rebuked him, and as a form of spiritual obligation, assigned him the task of remaining in the world to help people – most notably through healing.

In Japan, Binzuru is often depicted as an elderly monk with a kind and gentle expression. He is typically shown sitting in a meditative pose, holding a cane and a beggar’s bowl.

It is believed that he has the power to cure illnesses and alleviate suffering, and many people visit his shrines and temples to pray for healing and good health. One popular practice associated with Binzuru is the rubbing of his statue. It is believed that by rubbing the statue in the spot corresponding to one’s own ailment, one can transfer Binzuru’s healing power to themselves or to a loved one who is ill. His statue is often worn smooth, polished, and draped with cloths as a sign of reverence and gratitude.

In Tōdai-Ji Temple in Nara Binzuru wears an orange robe, which is a traditional color for Buddhist monks in Japan and other Asian countries. The color orange is considered significant in Buddhism, as it represents the color of the robes worn by the Buddha and his followers. It is also said to represent the qualities of wisdom, humility, and detachment from material possessions. The orange robe worn by Binzuru is thus a symbol of his status as a Buddhist monk and his dedication to the practice of the Buddhist teachings. It is also believed to represent his compassion and willingness to help those in need, as Buddhist monks are known for their role in providing spiritual guidance and support to their communities.

Binzuru

Shukubo. The Koyasan Temple Stay Experience

It’s Christmas Eve. A couple of hours ago – around 9 p.m. – I was driving home from a crowded mall. There was no snow, just rain, which felt unusual for Christmas. But the streets were quiet, almost empty. A peaceful drive, with cheerful Christmas songs playing on the radio. As I drove, I found myself thinking about my next trip. Christmas will be spent with family, but New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day I’ll spend with friends – beyond the Arctic Circle in Norway. A bit odd, perhaps – a winter trip to the far North. But in a way, we’ll be having summer in the middle of winter. In just one month, it’ll be the end of the world again – this time in the Southern Hemisphere. In both Norway and New Zealand, I’ll reunite with people I traveled with to Japan last year.

And speaking of that trip, I just realized there’s one place we visited in Japan that I haven’t written about yet on this blog: a sacred mountain called Koyasan. A very different part of the world. They don’t celebrate Christmas there, that’s for sure. Still, I somehow associate it with calmness and serenity.

Belltower at the main temple complex on Mount Koya – Kongōbu-ji.
The only white structure we saw during our entire trip to Japan.

Koyasan, also known as Mount Koya, is the main seat of the Shingon sect, one of the most important schools of Buddhism in Japan. Founded in the early 9th century, Shingon is a form of esoteric Buddhism, known for its use of mantras, rituals, and symbolic imagery as paths to enlightenment. The area is visited by both Japanese pilgrims and foreign tourists, many of whom stay overnight to experience a Buddhist temple lodging – called shukubo in Japanese. The sect was established over a thousand years ago by Kōbō-Daishi, also known as Kūkai (774–835), a Japanese monk, scholar, and mystic. It was he who chose Mount Koya as the secluded and sacred site for the sect’s spiritual headquarters. Today, his mausoleum in Koyasan remains one of the most revered pilgrimage destinations in the country.

Traveling through Japan, you end up visiting many shrines and temples. But there’s a difference between simply visiting… and spending the night. Like many others, we booked an overnight stay in one of the many Buddhist monasteries on Mount Koya. The place is genuinely secluded and remarkably quiet. To reach it, we had to take a mountain railway train – a small local line that slowly carried us up the slope into the mountains.

The train to Mount Koya. The journey lasts a bit more than five minutes.

When we arrived at the Mount Koya railway station, we lingered for a short while. But soon, a local Japanese man approached us and urged us to hurry and catch the bus. We already knew that public transport outside Japan’s big cities tends to shut down by late afternoon. But in Koyasan, the last bus from the station left around 3 p.m. It was packed with tourists, all heading off to experience a night in a Buddhist monastery.

We looked around. The streets of Koya Town were tranquil, almost as if life had come to a standstill.

Koyatown. The first impression. A quiet street. 16:15.

To be honest, my expectations for the shukubo experience were a bit different. I had imagined a place full of monks in orange robes – just like in so many films about Buddhist life – with us quietly standing behind them, allowed only to observe their rituals from a respectful distance. I think I was inspired at the time by an episode of House of Cards, where Buddhist monks were performing a slow, meditative ritual, creating a picture out of colored sand on a table. After a month of careful work, the image was swept away, the sand placed into a pot, and finally poured into a river as part of a ceremonial release.

Our monastery experience wasn’t quite like that. The sect we were staying with turned out to be very small. In fact, we interacted with only one monk and one novice (to use a more European term). We were told that a Buddhist sect can be tiny, and I got the impression that this was, at least in part, also a form of cultural experience for visitors – in a place considered sacred for centuries.

Upon arrival, we were shown to our private quarters – there were only eight guest rooms in our section of the monastery – and then invited to a tea ceremony, during which our monk host explained the house rules. We learned that in about two hours we’d be served a vegetarian meal, followed by a guided visit to Kongobuji Temple, the oldest temple complex in Koyasan. After that, another vegetarian meal would be served. The night curfew was set for 10 p.m., and the next morning, at 6 a.m., we were to attend a Buddhist ceremony.

Since we hadn’t eaten anything since early morning in Kyoto, we decided to grab a bite at a local restaurant. Knowing we had two meals awaiting us at the monastery, we kept it light. In hindsight, that turned out to be a very good idea. That evening, we were served an array of vegetarian delicacies – beautifully presented, but light and subtle in flavor. For us, it was less about being full and more about experiencing Japanese vegetarian cuisine in its traditional, monastic form.

Below are a few photos of our lodging and the meals we were served.

Our monastery experience in Koyasan.
Quiet. Soothing. We didn’t exactly obey the curfew – it felt too early for us.
But imagine fourteen people sitting quietly in one cell, spending the late evening whispering to each other.

In the afternoon and early evening, we had time to explore a bit of Koya Town. There was a kind of small city center, with most of the buildings in traditional Japanese style. Many of them seemed to be connected in some way to monastic life. Koyasan revealed itself as a truly secluded place, where it feels natural to slow down… and take plenty of photos of its picturesque architecture, surrounded by lush greenery. I think it was there that I saw, for the first time, a Japanese person carefully plucking grass from a moss-covered lawn – a small but somehow striking detail.

Just a glimpse of Koyasan and its main temple complex.
It wasn’t particularly difficult to take photos without anyone in the frame – even in the early afternoon.

The first temple complex in Koyasan during our late evening walk. The building is the Kondo Hall. Significant ceremonies are held there.
If I had to do something differently during our evening in Koyasan, I would have taken a tripod with me to the complex. The main buildings are clearly visible, but most of the time you walk along paths marked by small lamps, surrounded by darkness.
As Koyasan is truly secluded, and no other lights are visible in the night, the atmosphere and views are incredible.

I don’t have any photographs from our evening or early morning at the monastery. It felt too private to document. That evening, a small communal bath was made available to us. There were only a few guests staying in our part of the monastery – just two other women, who we think were from the Netherlands. They used the bath earlier, so we had it to ourselves. The hot jacuzzi was a welcome relief for our muscles. After ten days of intense sightseeing and long travel, it felt genuinely soothing. Still, two people from our group asked for a chance to bathe separately, so we took turns. Because of the 10 p.m. curfew, we had to leave the bath earlier than we would have liked. In the morning, we were only allowed to use a shared restroomno showers were available.

The next morning, we were expected to wake up early to attend a religious ceremony held in the sacred part of the monastery. As in many other Buddhist temples and monasteries, we were not allowed to bring cameras – a rule we had already encountered elsewhere. The small hall was dimly lit and filled with an intense, lingering scent. We began with a cleansing ritual, which involved clapping hands, fragrant smoke, and rubbing ash into our palms. Then came the recitation of sutras – a form of sacred teachings or wisdom texts. Our host gave us printed copies in English, which we were asked to recite softly, in a steady, rhythmic voice. The entire ceremony lasted about an hour. I had still hoped we might see more monks, but in the end, it was just our small group and our monk host. There were around thirty people in the hall, most of them appearing to be European or American. Only one Japanese couple was present.

We left the monastery around 10 a.m., collecting our luggage from the main storage area. From there, we set out to visit one of the oldest cemeteries in Japan, located near the resting place of Kōbō-Daishi. The cemetery is enormous and ancient, with many gravestones dating back several centuries. Wandering among the moss-covered monuments and towering cedar trees, you feel the deep sense of history and reverence that surrounds the site.

At the Okunoin cemetery.

Later, around 1 p.m., we boarded the train down the mountain and began our journey back to Tokyo.

Shukubo. The Koyasan Temple Stay Experience