Wilanów Palace. The Crown Jewel of the Warsaw’s Royal Route

Just a short distance from where I live lies one of the most exquisite Baroque palaces in Poland – the Wilanów Palace. Often called the Polish Versailles, it was the summer residence of King John III Sobieski and his beloved Queen Marysieńka, built after Sobieski’s famous victory over the Ottoman Empire at the Battle of Vienna in 1683 as both a symbol of royal power and personal devotion. Today, Wilanów still enchants visitors with its splendid façade, sculpted gardens, and centuries of history that have survived wars, partitions, and political upheavals – making it one of the very few royal residences in Poland preserved in their original form.

Wilanów Palace was – for a brief yet memorable time – the summer residence of Polish monarchs. Commissioned by King John III Sobieski in the late 17th century, it served as both a private retreat with his wife Queen Marysieńka and a lasting symbol of his prestige after the victory at the Battle of Vienna in 1683. While Poland’s capital had shifted several times over the centuries – from Gniezno to KrakówWarsaw became the capital in 1596 under King Sigismund III Vasa, making Wilanów one of the first great royal residences to rise near the new seat of power.

The Royal Route was more than just a road – it was a stage for royal ceremonies, parades, and processions. Kings rode along it on their way to coronations, foreign envoys were welcomed here with pomp, and great celebrations unfolded in the streets. Walking or riding this route today means literally tracing the path of Poland’s monarchs.

What makes the journey even more fascinating is the blend of eras you encounter along the way. Baroque palaces stand next to neoclassical façades, elegant 19th-century townhouses neighbour socialist-era apartment blocks, and modern cafés fill the ground floors of centuries-old residences. The Royal Route is not just a line connecting monuments – it is a living timeline of Warsaw’s history.

Starting at Castle Square, you’ll encounter the Royal Castle and Sigismund’s Column – enduring symbols of Warsaw’s royal heritage. The column, erected in 1644, is not only the oldest secular monument in the city but also a reminder of the king who moved Poland’s capital from Kraków to Warsaw. While the Royal Castle may appear modest when seen from the Old Town itself – as part of it stands on a steep escarpment – its full grandeur reveals itself when viewed from the Vistula River’s bank below. Continuing along Krakowskie Przedmieście Street, your first stop might be St. Anne’s Church, with its elegant neoclassical façade and a tower that offers one of the best panoramic views of Warsaw.

Along Krakowskie Przedmieście, you’ll pass the Presidential Palace – a graceful neoclassical residence that has witnessed many historic events, including the signing of the Constitution of May 3, 1791, Europe’s first modern constitution. Nearby stands the legendary Hotel Bristol, a 19th-century icon that hosted statesmen, artists, and celebrities for over a century. Just across the street lies the historic campus of the University of Warsaw, with the elegant Kazimierz Palace at its heart. As you continue, you’ll meet the Monument of Nicolaus Copernicus, one of Poland’s most famous sons, placed before the Polish Academy of Sciences – a fitting location for the astronomer who stopped the Sun and moved the Earth.

Moving into Nowy Świat Street, you step into one of Warsaw’s most vibrant avenues – lined with cafés, restaurants, and boutiques, it has been a favorite promenade for locals since the 19th century. A little further, you’ll encounter the city’s most unexpected landmark: an artificial palm tree standing in the middle of the busy de Gaulle Roundabout. Originally installed in 2002 as an art project by Joanna Rajkowska, it was meant to be temporary, yet quickly became a beloved and quirky symbol of modern Warsaw. Just behind it rises the imposing former Communist Party headquarters, a stark reminder of Poland’s Cold War past, contrasting sharply with the lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere of Nowy Świat.

At Three Crosses Square, the St. Alexander’s Church stands at the heart of the square, marking the entrance to Warsaw’s diplomatic and government district. From here, Ujazdowskie Avenue stretches out as a leafy, elegant promenade, lined with embassies, ministries, and 19th-century townhouses, as well as some of Warsaw’s oldest parks. Soon you arrive at Ujazdów Castle, the city’s first summer royal residence after Warsaw became the capital in 1596, today housing the Centre for Contemporary Art. Just beyond lies the jewel of the Royal Route – the Łazienki Park with its romantic Palace on the Isle. Surrounded by lakes, gardens, and wandering peacocks, this former royal retreat commissioned by King Stanisław August Poniatowski in the 18th century is now one of Warsaw’s most beloved public spaces.

Adjacent to Łazienki Park is the Botanical Garden, home to an impressive collection of plant species and seasonal flower displays. Just a short walk away stands the iconic Frédéric Chopin Monument, one of Warsaw’s most cherished landmarks. Every Sunday in summer, crowds gather beneath its sweeping bronze form to enjoy free open-air piano concerts, a tradition dating back to 1959 that keeps Chopin’s music alive in the very city where he was born.

Just across the street stands the Prime Minister’s Office, a vast guarded complex that has been the seat of government since the interwar years. The journey then passes the Belweder Palace, a graceful neoclassical residence nestled among trees, once used by Polish presidents and even by Marshal Józef Piłsudski as his official home. Nearby, on Parkowa Street, lies the Prime Minister’s private residence, facing the imposing Soviet-era Russian Embassy – a striking reminder of Poland’s Cold War chapter. From here, the Royal Route gradually leaves the city’s governmental heart and enters residential neighborhoods, where socialist-era apartment blocks painted in bright pastels stand side by side with the modern developments of New Wilanów, before the road culminates at the historic jewel of the south – the Wilanów Palace.

The construction of the Wilanów Palace began in 1677, commissioned by King John III Sobieski as a private retreat away from the bustle of Warsaw – a residence where he could rest with his beloved Queen Marysieńka. More than a royal villa, it was also intended as a lasting symbol of his military triumphs, especially the celebrated Battle of Vienna in 1683, where Sobieski’s victory against the Ottoman Empire secured him fame across Europe and earned him the title Savior of Christendom.

King John III Sobieski chose a design inspired by Baroque and Renaissance villas of Southern Europe. Though modest at first, the palace was gradually expanded with ornate wings and gardens adorned with sculptures, turning it into a true royal residence. After Sobieski’s death in 1696, the estate remained in his family until 1720, then passed through the hands of powerful magnate families – including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, and Potockis – each reshaping the interiors to match the fashions of their time. By the late 18th century, under Stanisław Kostka Potocki, Wilanów became one of the first public museums in Poland, displaying an impressive collection of European, Oriental, and ancient art, and Potocki even created two nearby parks named after his grandchildren. During World War II, the palace was plundered by the Nazis, with many priceless artworks lost forever, yet thanks to meticulous post-war restoration much of its splendour was recovered – making Wilanów not only a monument of royal glory but also a symbol of Poland’s resilience.

Today, the Wilanów Palace attracts both tourists and locals with its ornate Baroque façade, lush gardens, and richly decorated interiors. The residence combines Baroque architecture with Italian Renaissance influences and the craftsmanship of Polish artists. Over the centuries, the gardens have evolved from a formal French layout into a more romantic English park, where avenues of trees lead to a lake connected by a stream to the Vistula River. Inside, the palace preserves its historic furnishings and serves as an art museum hosting a variety of temporary exhibitions, while outdoors it offers one of Warsaw’s most enchanting seasonal events – the Royal Garden of Light, which every winter transforms the grounds into a glowing spectacle. Whenever I visit, I bring my camera to capture the palace’s façade, sculptures, blooming flowers, or the ducks and swans gliding across the lake, sometimes mirrored perfectly in the still water. Entrance to the palace grounds and gardens costs about €2.50, making it one of the most affordable yet unforgettable royal experiences in Europe.

Walking the Royal Route to Wilanów is like stepping into a living history book, where every square, palace, and monument tells its own story. Whether you are drawn by the grandeur of architecture, the charm of leafy parks, or the echoes of Poland’s royal past, this journey offers a unique chance to see Warsaw in its most elegant and historic form. And as you stand before the golden façade of Wilanów Palace, you realize that the path leading there is just as captivating as the destination itself.

Wilanów Palace. The Crown Jewel of the Warsaw’s Royal Route

Bona Sforza

Bari is a city that is heard of in Poland from early childhood history lessons. In this city, one of the most influential queens in Polish history, Bona Sforza, was living before and after her stay in Poland. She became the Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania through her marriage to Sigismund I of Poland. It was only while staying with an Italian family near Bari that I learned that Bona Sforza was a significant figure in Bari, as well. Furthermore, that her modest sarcophagus is placed on the altar in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Born 1494, in Milan, Italy, she was the daughter of Gian Galeazzo Sforza, Duke of Milan, and Isabella of Naples. Bona’s family, the Sforzas, were one of the leading families in Italy. Her childhood was affected by the political turmoil involving her family. The Sforza family’s power in Milan was contested. Her father died under mysterious circumstances when Bona was just a child. Soon after her father’s death, Duchess Isabella moved with her daughters to Bari. Bona’s Renaissance education covered languages, arts, and an introduction to politics, equipping her with linguistic proficiency and a foundational understanding of governance.

Isabella sought to arrange a favorable marriage for Bona to regain political influence and her former possessions. Despite initial unsuccessful attempts due to Isabella’s unfavorable political position, with the support of the Habsburgs, she eventually succeeded in arranging Bona’s marriage to the widowed Polish King Sigismund I.

In 1518, Bona Sforza married King Sigismund I of Poland, becoming Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania.

Her role as the Queen of Poland was marked by significant administrative reforms, among which the establishment of a permanent tax system was a major achievement. Although it must be said that she imposed and enforced these taxes with a firm hand. Prior to her influence, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth relied on irregular and often arbitrary taxation methods that were not only inefficient but also prone to exacerbating tensions between the monarchy and the nobility. By introducing a more systematic and regularized tax system, she brought about greater fiscal stability and predictability, which was essential for the effective governance and financial planning of the state. In addition to these fiscal reforms, Bona Sforza made concerted efforts to reduce the influence of the nobility by curbing their traditional privileges and powers, thereby centralizing authority under the monarchy.

Beyond her domestic reforms, Bona Sforza was deeply engaged in the foreign affairs of the Polish-Lithuanian realm. She openly opposed the growing influence of the Habsburgs in Central Europe and sought to counterbalance it through alliances with France and the Ottoman Empire. Her foreign policy was closely tied to her dynastic interests, as she worked to secure titles, lands and advantageous marriages for her children. Although some of her efforts were ultimately frustrated, she remained a shrewd political operator, whose ambitions extended well beyond the borders of her adopted country.

Bona Sforza played a notable role in the development of Renaissance culture in Poland. Hailing from Italy, she brought with her the refined tastes of the Italian courts and introduced them to the Polish royal household. She actively patronised artists, architects and craftsmen, many of whom she brought from her native land, leaving a lasting mark on the visual and architectural landscape of the kingdom. Under her influence, Wawel Castle was transformed with elegant arcaded courtyards in the Italian style. Beyond architecture, she encouraged literary and educational pursuits, helping to shape a more sophisticated and cosmopolitan court culture.

She also had a considerable impact on Polish agriculture and cuisine. She introduced important agricultural reforms, including new crops and farming techniques. While the idea that she single-handedly brought vegetables to Poland is somewhat exaggerated, she did play a significant role in promoting their wider use at the royal court and among the nobility. As a noblewoman from Italy – where Renaissance culinary culture was particularly rich and diverse – she brought with her knowledge of produce that was not commonly used in Poland at the time. Her influence contributed to a gradual shift in dietary habits, particularly among the upper classes.

Bona Sforza, towards the end of King Sigismund I’s reign and after his death in 1548, faced increasing animosity from the Polish nobility due to her strong political influence and centralizing reforms. Her relationship with her son, Sigismund II Augustus, became fraught with tension, as well. After he ascended to the throne, their differing views on state affairs exacerbated the strain in their relationship. A major source of conflict was also her son’s marriage to Barbara Radziwiłł from one of the most influential Polish-Lithuanian noble families. Bona viewed it as politically damaging and personally threatening, as it would strengthen his wife’s family influence at court while diminishing her own.

Consequently, for long eight years she moved with her daughters to Brodnica in Mazovia Poland. Finally she made the decision to leave Poland and return to Italy to Bari, marking the end of her direct involvement in Polish politics. Bona’s life came to an abrupt and mysterious end in 1557.

And here yet another fact from her life comes to light. Following her marriage to Sigismund I the Old in 1518, Bona was formally granted hereditary fiefs in southern Italy by Emperor Charles V of the Habsburg dynasty. These included the Duchy of Bari, the Principality of Rossano, as well as Modugno and Bitonto. These were highly lucrative estates situated in the Kingdom of Naples. Bona derived substantial income from them. She maintained financial independence and even loaned money to the Polish royal treasury. She was one of the wealthiest individuals in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, and she handled her finances with remarkable diligence and care. For decades, even while residing in Poland, she administered her southern Italian fiefs through a network of trusted agents and correspondence. From the royal court in Kraków, she managed financial affairs, collected revenues, and oversaw local governance in the Duchy of Bari. This transregional management made her one of the most financially independent monarchs in Europe at the time.

When she eventually returned to Bari in 1556, she resumed direct rule and implemented a series of administrative and economic reforms. She strengthened tax collection, invested in urban infrastructure, and reasserted political control over her domains. Her presence in Bari reestablished the court as a center of local authority and Renaissance patronage — yet also drew the attention and hostility of the Spanish crown, particularly Philip II (son of Charles V), under whose rule the Kingdom of Naples now fell.

Bona died under suspicious circumstances. One of the historical hypotheses that has not been conclusively confirmed is the theory that she was poisoned by her secretary, Gian Lorenzo Pappacoda, who allegedly acted under orders from the Spanish crown. A forged will emerged, one that transferred her Italian holdings not to her son, as she had intended, but instead to Philip II. Poland’s diplomatic protests and claims were entirely ignored by the Spanish authorities.

She was buried in the Basilica of Saint Nicholas in Bari.

Bona Sforza

Revived. Elbląg

Poland is one of the countries that was most deeply affected by World War II. As a consequence, many historical cities were completely destroyed and required extensive reconstruction. One of such cities is Elbląg, located in the northeastern part of the country.

Founded in the 1230s under the Teutonic Knights, a German military order, Elbląg quickly became an essential hub for commerce and trade in medieval Europe. Its strategic location near the Vistula Lagoon served as a gateway for goods moving between the interior of Poland and the Baltic Sea. Trade in Elbląg was diverse, with commodities like amber, grain, and timber being among the most traded goods. The city’s membership in the Hanseatic League facilitated its trade relations with other significant ports of the Baltic Sea, such as Danzig (Gdańsk), Lübeck, and Riga.

In the mid-15th century, Elbląg, supporting the Prussian Confederation, rebelled against the Teutonic Order, leading to its integration into the Kingdom of Poland after the Thirteen Years’ War. After the partition of Poland in the late 18th century, Elbląg came under Prussian control. This marked the beginning of a new era in the city’s history, as it was integrated into the Kingdom of Prussia and later became part of the German Empire in 1871. During this period, the Elbląg Canal was constructed. Completed in the 19th century, it was built to facilitate the transportation of goods, especially timber from the Masurian Lakes to the port city of Elbląg. Previously, the port activity relied on a natural waterway connection with the Vistula Lagoon and the Baltic Sea. Elbląg remained under German rule until the end of World War II, when it was reassigned to Poland in accordance with the Potsdam Agreement in 1945.

During World War II, Elbląg suffered significant destruction and damage. The city was occupied by Nazi Germany after the invasion of Poland in 1939 and remained under German control until it was liberated by the Soviet Red Army in 1945. As the war reached its final stages, Elbląg became a battleground between the retreating German forces and the advancing Soviet Red Army. In anticipation of the Soviet advance, the retreating German forces engaged in a scorched-earth policy, destroying buildings, bridges, and other infrastructure to impede the Soviet advance. Many historic buildings, including those in the historical town, suffered severe damage or were completely destroyed.

Elbląg before war

Elbląg post war

After the war, Elbląg faced the daunting task of reconstruction. Efforts were made to rebuild and restore the city’s infrastructure and historical buildings, including the historical town. However, due to the extent of the damage, some structures had to be rebuilt or restored in a modified form. Local authorities and preservation organizations have been working to maintain the city’s historical character while adapting to modern needs and requirements. Walking around this city, you get the impression that you’re in a typical Hanseatic town. Just that the buildings in the historical town, though stylised, exude modernity.

The city cathedral also had to be rebuilt from scratch. Before World War II, the Elbląg Cathedral, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was a significant landmark in Elbląg, embodying the city’s medieval heritage and its prominence within the Hanseatic League. Constructed in the 13th century during the city’s period of economic prosperity, the cathedral was designed in the Brick Gothic style, characteristic of northern Germany and the Baltic Sea region. The reconstruction of the Cathedral after World War II adopted a simpler approach compared to its original elaborate Gothic design. In the post-war period, resources were often limited, and the focus was on functional restoration rather than replicating historical intricacies. As a result, the reconstructed cathedral, while retaining the Gothic architectural style and preserving its historical essence, features a more simplified interior and exterior compared to the pre-war period.

After the Second World War, port activity in Elbląg ceased. However, a few years ago, the Polish government built a direct waterway from the Vistula Lagoon to the Baltic Sea, with the intention of reviving port activity in Elbląg after deepening the Elbląg Canal section leading from the lagoon to Elbląg, which is likely to take place in the near future.

Revived. Elbląg