Baroque, baroque …

The baroque facade of the royal palace in Wilanow, a municipality of Warsaw, Poland. Wilanow is one of Warsaw quarters, formerly a village where John III Sobieski built his summer residence. The palace, with an extensive park, rebuilt and reconstructed after the war struggles, is still the very center of this part of the city. The Wilanow Palace is told to be a nobility house, an Italian garden villa, and a French palace in the style of Louis XIV all in one.

Baroque is a European style of architecture, music, painting, sculpture, and other arts predominant from the early XVII till the mid-XVIII century. Emerging in response to the rigid constraints of the preceding Renaissance era, Baroque was characterized by its dynamic, ornate, and emotive qualities. In architecture, Baroque manifested in grandeur and opulence, evident in iconic structures such as St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and the Palace of Versailles in France. Elaborate ornamentation, dramatic use of light and shadow, and a sense of theatricality defined buildings, creating a visual language that conveyed both power and spirituality. Baroque painting and sculpture embraced movement and emotion, exemplified by artists like Caravaggio and Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Dramatic chiaroscuro, vivid colors, and a focus on capturing intense moments characterized its visual arts, reflecting the fervent spirit of the age. This period, often associated with the Catholic Counter-Reformation, utilized art as a powerful tool for emotional and spiritual engagement. The grandeur of Baroque reflected the political and religious fervor of the time, leaving an enduring legacy that continues to captivate and inspire across the cultural landscape of Europe and beyond.

Baroque followed Renaissance and preceded Neoclassical style.

Baroque art in most of Europe is extravagant, detailed, of deep contrast and color. It aims to deceive the eye by optical illusions to create three-dimensional views. The exception is France, where baroque style is more decent, classical-like, and less ornate.

Baroque, baroque …

The Hermitage and the Fortune

The Brussels Grand Place is probably the most glamorous central square of Europe. It is surrounded by very representative buildings funded by numerous Brussels craft guilds. All of them are carefully decorated with busts, sculptures, reliefs, ornaments, and quite much gold leaf. Last month I spent maybe an hour, perhaps even longer on making solely detailed closeups. Now, I am having much fun in discovering the details and facts behind them.

There are thirty-nine houses in Grand Place. Besides the Town Hall, all buildings had been rebuilt from scratch, after a heavy French bombardment of 1695. As the city was very rich, the reconstruction of the square was completed only within five years. One of the most significant buildings is the so-called House of Dukes of Brabant. The name of the building derives from the busts of dukes of Brabant that decorate the facade. Duchy of Brabant was a historical duchy located in Low Countries. Today the title of the Duke of Brabant is only a dynastic one with no lands associated with it. However, the title seems to be of importance for it is nowadays given to the heir to the Belgian throne.

The Brussels Grand Place. The building at the front is called the House of Dukes of Brabant. It hosts seven houses including no. 14 & 15: The Hermitage and The Fortune.

The House of Dukes of Brabant hosts seven house numbers from no. 13 to no. 19. These are from right to left ‘The Fame‘ (La Renommée), ‘The Hermitage‘ (L’Ermitage), ‘The Fortune‘ (La Fortune), ‘The Windmill‘ (Le Moulin à Vent), ‘The Tin Pot‘ (Le Pot d’Étain), ‘The Hill‘ (La Colline) and ‘The Purse‘ (La Bourse).

The House of Dukes of Brabant was hosting several Brussels guildhalls, including those of carpet makers, tanners, millers, cartwrights, and masons. Several emblems or reliefs pointing to the guilds as well as other symbols are decorating the building facade. By some, you can recognize the crafts, although the symbolism is not apparent at first sight.

One of several guild symbols on the facade of the House of Dukes of Brabant.

If you take, a closer look, however, you will see some inconsistency in the decoration. There are three reliefs of a different style decorating the facade. Looking at the closeups I took recently, I could have easily associated one of them with the millers. But with two reliefs over doors to no. 14 & 15 Grand Place, I gave myself a header for several minutes. Till I realized that they are not about the crafts, but about the houses itself. One should keep in mind that the premises around Grand Place changed the owners through history. Guildhalls relocated. But, buildings kept their original names.

House No. 14 hosts the carpet makers and goes with the name ‘The Hermitage‘. The relief over its doors shows a hermit delved in reading. House No. 15 called ‘The Fortune‘ is marked by the blindfolded Fortune bouncing on a turning wheel and flashing coins all around. The Fortune house hosts the tanners.

The reliefs decorating the entrance to ‘The Hermitage’ and ‘The Fortune’.

Also, other house numbers of the House of Dukes of Brabant are marked by symbols reflecting their names. But only ‘The Windmill‘ is decorated by a relief. This one is unlike the others placed at a higher level to the right of the house entranceThe remaining houses are marked by less elaborate symbols made the same style as the guild symbols displayed at a higher level.

A relief decorating ‘The Windmill’ and a symbol over the entrance to ‘The Tin Pot’.

The Hermitage and the Fortune

Grand Place No. 9 & 10

The Grand Place of Brussels looks excellent in the daylight, but it is recommendable to visit it in the evening or at night when all lights and illuminations are on. The place, and in particular, the building facades were carefully refurbished in recent years. Today they shine at the full glance. Last month, it was probably the first time for years as I saw Grand Place with no wrappings and scaffolding. I made the picture on a late June afternoon shortly before the sunset. The golden leaf on the facades can be well seen in the sunlight.

The Brussels Grand Place was set up in the Middle Ages as Brussels was a thriving commercial center. The square was paved already in the XIII century. It was surrounded by buildings that for the most part, were financed by the Brussels craft guilds or the wealthy city citizens. The building with the highest tower (left-hand side on the upper photo) is the Town Hall constructed in the XV century. It was built gradually. Hence the asymmetry. The oldest part is its longer left wing. The right-wing, as well as the tower, was constructed thirty years later. The Town Hall is the only original building at the Grand Place. All other buildings had been reconstructed by the end of the XVII century after the Grand Place was bombarded in 1695 by the French forces commanded by Marshall François de Neufville de Villeroy. In fact, the city was so rich that the full reconstruction of Grand Place took only five years after the bombardment. If you look closer at the facades, you will, among others, notice reliefs depicting different crafts. But by far, it is not the only symbol decorating the buildings. The Grand Place is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

Last month while in Brussels I took photos with two cameras. One of them allowed me quite decent close-ups. I just went around the square and made photos of the decorative elements of the facades. Most pictures are still to come. Yet today, also with photos made during my previous stays in Brussels, I can start the long-planned review of the Grand Place buildings. So here they are, Grand Place no. 9 and 10. You will find them in the middle of the lower photo above.

No. 9 Grand Place, Le Cygne, or The Swan is known as the butchers’ guildhall. It is marked by a carved swan above the front door. Initially, already noted in the XV century annals, the building hosted an inn.  After it was destroyed by the French forces in 1695, it was rebuilt three years later for Pierre Fariseau, a financier, as his mansion. You can see the construction date in the upper right corner of the facade. In the XVIII century, the building was acquired by the butchers’ guild. The Brussels guilds otherwise called the Brussels Nations had been dissolved in 1795 during the French occupation. The immovables of the guild together with assets belonging to other guilds had been sold at the public auction held at the Grand Place. Today, Le Cygne regained its original role and hosts a restaurant (a bistro). 

Of curiosities: Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels organized meetings of the Communist League in The Swan. It is said they wrote there some parts of the Communist Party Manifesto. That time, Le Cygne was one of many popular taverns at the Grand Place affordable also for the newly emerging working class.

No. 10 Grand Place, La Maison des Brasseurs (Brewer’s Guildhall) otherwise is called Maison de l’Arbre d’Or (Golden Tree House). Originally it belonged to the guild of tanners and upholsterers. Only from the XVII century, after the house was rebuilt damaged by the French bombing, it served the brewers guild. Today it is the seat of ‘Belgian Brewers’ and hosts a brewery museum. If you look closely at its top, you will notice its name put on in gold leaf as well as the date of its reconstruction (1698). At the top of the building, you will see a golden statue of Charles-Alexandre de Lorraine (governor of the Netherlands in times of the Austrian rule as well as the Grand Master of the Teutonic Order), which was installed in 1752 to replace another statue of Maximilian II Emmanuel of Bavaria.  Although made for the roof, the figure is quite a detailed one (compare the closeup below).

Grand Place No. 9 & 10